matt167

As I understand, 2002-2007 Impreza/WRX can benefit from an H6 brake upgrade.. What all is needed for the swap? Have a 2004 WRX that needs brakes and rotors all around

My '01 Forester just started squealing when starting on a hill in 1st. goes away once it's run up into 5th. Sounds just like the belt squeal from turning the wheels lock to lock does sometimes. The belt is slightly worn, but not enough to make me do anything about it yet ( till now ). If I push the clutch in, it will fade away pretty quick just as once it's in 5th, it fades away quickly.. Could that be the throwout or is it just the belt slip? Can I run it like that if it is the throwout? I'm prepared to do a clutch. have the tools, have the cash just short on time since it's my only vehicle.. I was looking at Grip Force FX stage 1 clutches. An OEM Exedy flywheel, throwout and clutch is only $165, and their stock replacement clutch with the same stuff is $157.. I was thinking stage 1 since at some point, this cars gonna tow a boat that is just shy of 2,000 lbs fully loaded. Realistically it's about 1,800 with gear in it.

u may need to swap top plates if there different.

Cool, guess I'll inspect the other wheel bearing closer or just change it, it's probably the last thing the car needs for a while. It doesn't cost me much to operate and that's how I like it

I've changed lots of rear differentials in various vehicles, but only one other Subaru and that came out a dark honey color.. I just changed the gear lube in my Forester because I'm starting to think it's gear whine and not a wheel bearing.. The plugs were corroded shut so I had to use the jack on the socket wrench trick.. The oil came out clean and light colored. the magnent had a bit of crud on it but not too much. I'm thinking that oil was very fresh because someone else came to the same conclusion and tried the same thing.. I filled it back up with 80W90 GL5 conventional. store didn't have 75W90 and I know in my 230k mile car it's not going to make much difference anyway.. Now comes the question. If it is gear whine and I need a new differential. what is the gear ratio for a 2001 Forester S 5spd? I was thinking it was 4.44 but I want to make sure, and what models I can get one from. The local U pull has plenty of Subies that as long as it does not need to come from a 5spd Forester I should be able to grab one.. There like $50 OTD

Use what the car came with for all. That will ensure it runs right

The 99 Lego sus that i had, ran perfect till it got to about operating temp. At that point it would skip so bad it was dropping cylinders. Shortly after it was blatent overheating. After I pulled that engine, I checked the plugs and they were clean and smelled like coolant.. A weeping gasket with a little coolant in the cyl would do it and the exhaust gas might not even make it in if the gasket is still sealed for the most part

The heads and intake need to match. Short blocks interchange for the most part..

Depends on if it was done right and heads were resurfaced or not. The gaskets won't last long if its quick repaired. With them saying it needs plugs and wires suggests it has a skip. That could be from a head gasket leaking coolant in the cyls

The autos are fairly reliable. Torque bind and duty c functionality are the biggest issue. The engines are good to 100-150k when the head gasket blows. Some do go longer

Check for blown head gaskets, the ej25D is known for them. If its got a skip, it could be a sign of a head gasket.. There selling it needing repairs, so they know more than they say.. Good for you is an ej22e swap is cheap if the cars worth it

Yea, same year range. Just match the gear ratios.

1999-2004 should be direct. Up to 2006 or even later may work. From a legacy, or if your at the U pull grab an outback trans of same year range. Then grab the rear diff too. You will like the lower gears. You could go for a forester trans and diff in that case too. There the same

Hopefully the other bearing holds out. for a while. I just had to put tires on it. Got 4 of the Douglas Xtra Trac II's from work.

I just had a rear wheel bearing done on my '01 Forester. Was going to pull the knuckle, take it to Napa and have them press it and do everything else myself but I just didn't have the time and I've also never done one, so I took it to my buddies shop.. When I picked it up, he billed me for 2.5 hours extra because he had trouble with the long knuckle bolt and that's the time it took. I didn't even think about that bolt, but I've read about cutting it in half and knocking the halves out backwards due to this issue.. I may have to do the other side. What is that bolt called? I figure I'll just buy one and it will be less than 2.5 hrs labor.

it has vent caps. pop them off and drop 1 non coated asprin in per cell.. should revive it if you don't want to replace it yet

I think 215 65 16 is the biggest without a lift. General makes a Grabber AT/2 in that size too

The tensioner that Napa can get is from the OEM supplier. Cheaper than OEM but not cheap. I decided to replace the tensioner on my '99 Legacy SUS when I had it. Was like $100 and got it there because they had it on the shelf. only place local that had it

when those issues come up. the basics of a tune up are what you do first. new spark plugs and new NGK plug wires

Ebay you can get new shortblocks for the range of $1,500 shipped. It's not even worth bothering with unless you get a piston or rod that wants out. My 2001 Forester 2.5 has piston slap for the first 3 mins on a cold start. it has 222k miles, runs great otherwise

synthetic oil only comes from a couple different bottlers... I think you will find that the Castrol Syntec and Penzoil Platinum are pretty much the same

there are a couple different sensor wheel arrangments for the engines. They all take the same sensors, but the sensors read differently and the ECU needs to see the right readings from the sensor wheels... mix them up and the engine will run, but not really

Toyota put a "clutch cancel" switch in the pickups into the early 2000's, not sure when they stopped. Seemed like a liability to me, but they got away with it.. I had a '91 4x4 pickup. Used the switch exactly once to see if it worked.

'should' actually be a 251 also.. But, 253's used MAF sensors, 251's used MAP sensors... Engines themselves until 2004 would actually be the same, since it's a minor electronics difference.. The EJ251 vs EJ253 is really only part of an engine type code. In any case, swap intakes and run the '253'. You may need to swap cam gears around to get sensors to read right, but you have an engine out of a junkyard. it needs a new T belt and idlers anyway

I only install FRAM because I'm paid too