matt167

Just looked at the manual. took me a while to find the timing belt section since the one I got does not have split files... Looks just like the procedure for an EJ22E minus the tensioner so I guess I'm good.

Yea, that makes sense to use the bolt and turn it manually. I've got the forester FSM on my computer. I just wanted to make sure I didn't bend valves.

More work than if u just pulled the engine... Yes it could be done, either drop trans or you could use an atv jack to slide engine forward and you could probably gain enough room if you stood on your head from the top... If you got a solid tree or rafters that can hold a few hundred pounds. Go grab a 1 ton chain hoist for $30 and work in comfort

No engine is still running and togther. I have to do the belt soon. I just didn't want to bend valves rotating pistons into them or vice verse..i thought lining up the crank to the mark put pistions in middle stroke. So ill just bump the engine over till its at the mark and do it.

I've done a few ej22e,s but never an interference sohc. How do I safely rotate the cams and crank without hitting valves. I seem to remember that with the crank lined up on the mark, all cylinders are below top dead center. I'm considering bumping the engine over with belt in place till they are on the marks.. That seems safest. I'm just doing the belt and 3 idlers. Engine has oil pressure issues and a cold knock. Just have to keep the heads safe so I can use them on my spare short block when time comes. Gonna borrow tensioner from same block since it had a fresh complete timing job when I bought the car it came in.

Just use the holes that line up. Subaru added 2 bolts in 1999 but the pattern is the same.

If threads are messed up, you may be able to run a 3\8" tap in it and get enough thread back to use a 3\8" bolt. Hard to say but its a non critical fastener, I'd try that first

It should have a 2.2L being its not a GT or outback/SUS unless it was swapped.. But I wouldn't touch it for anything more than parts if it was nice enough to consider rebuild. Big risk even if the car was only $1k

Bolt in and go. Swap cam pullies in case the sensor wheels are different. Swap exhaust y pipe and it will run. That said, its minus 30hp for no real reason. The Ej22 after 1998 has no durabilty advantage over the SOHC 2.5. They are basically the same

Subaru made the basic Forester steel wheel in 16 and 17", and for several years. Shouldn't be hard to find.

$32 is probably

Use some Subaru coolant conditioner. Part number soa 635071

Wheel width has a factor in the final height and width.. Every tire has an optimal width rim and the tire is measured from that. This is why brands have variations

Not really. A good universal antifreeze will work.

Worst case it hurt the bearings, possibly weakened the rods. It probably didn't go that far but could have. Just use the 50\50 since you don't know your current amount. It's same as concentrate but mixed with distilled water. Personally, I use concentrate and tap water on daily drivers. That was good enough for a long time till the coolant companies started charging extra for some distilled water

U ran it out of coolant.. Hopefully u didn't cook it too bad,but I think u did

I know it's a band-aid. That's why it now has a new belt on it, and squeak free.. Belt dressing is a lubricant that quiets a slipping belt. I knew that when I picked it up

There not glazed now, but when she got the car, they were glazed badly. I put cheap pads on it cause we planned on upgrading this spring.. She does want to try auto cross too

She's got some used winter tires right now, and I put the cheapest pads on when she got the car. Previous pads were badly glazed over and did not stop well. Now they have something like 20k miles on them and are getting due to change

Well, I grabbed some belt dressing from the parts store as a test. I was able to duplicate the noise putting it in 2nd with the brake held and lugging the engine a bit. That was BEFORE... Now after the belt dressing, I can't hear the squeal, just the silence of a lubricated slipping belt.. So, I think I need a new belt. I could probably try some abrasive cleaning powder to save it, but a belt on a Subaru is pretty cheap and I might even have one from my other car.. Good to know about Gripforce.. If they send anything but an Exedy, it's false advertisement and Paypal/ Ebay would see it the buyers way every time. False advertisement can be considered fraud and thus is illegal.

coolant temp sensor is probably reading slow.. the code relates to how fast the engine heats up

Belts aren't loose. Once in a while on startup the main belt will give a chirp or when the steering is held at lock and its cold. The clutch does make it stop

2002-2007 for sure.. Wagon would sit higher I think. I know WRX wagons are like 1" over the sedan.. I think the WRX is slightly lower than a regular Impreza, you could find those new cheap enough.

Rod knock. clearences expand when it's up to temp.. You had enough clearance for it to light the oil light which is less than 5 PSI IIRC... If you wanna try running it still. Baby it and switch to 15W40 oil and run it till the rod wants out

Impreza struts. Forester and Impreza are basically the same chassis