GeneralDisorder

Here is the 8002 set on my '83 Hatch: Since the distributor and coil location on the EA81's never changes between models, I'm guessing they are selling you guys an EA82 set - EA82's have the coil on the driver's side strut tower and the distributor on the back of the driver's side cam tower - very close together which results in about a 10" coil wire but similar length plug wires since you have two short for the driver's side and two long for the passenger side. NGK wires are numbered so if you find you have to use the 2/4 wires on the 1/3 cylinders then you have an EA82 set. GD

Could be - but Subaru has been using that same system (1/4" vacuum breaker line to the air filter from the driver's side valve-cover-to-PCV-hose) since at least the late 70's as far as I know - and on up into the SPFI EA82's, etc. The line allows positive flow from the passenger valve cover, through the crankcase, and out the driver's side valve cover using manifold vacuum provided by the PCV valve - the 1/4" line is there to *limit* the suction and prevent it from sucking oil out of the driver's side valve cover - without that line it will pull oil into the manifold or if that line is too large there will be no positive flow through the system because the PCV valve will just suck air straight from the air filter instead - if all the lines are equally sized then what stops the PCV valve from sucking fresh air more easily than crankcase air? See what I mean? Here's some pics of the setup on my hatch - I'm using a "special" hose from a late '70s EA71 that necks down from 5/8" to 1/4" instead of using a second reducer for the Weber. Great if you can find one or possibly somone could figure out the part number - I've seen them on '79s. GD

The stock hoses have a "T" fitting that is 5/8" on two sides (PCV and Driver's side valve cover) and is 1/4" on the remaining port that goes to the air-box. That should not be changed - it is designed that way for proper PCV flow. Otherwise there is no positive flow in the system. GD

The curves are published in the factory service manuals - I can look in my '85 manual and possibly scan them. You planning on recurving it or something? GD

Depends on the engine - with a Weber most of us run 10* initial advance and just let the distributor do it's thing. If it pings under heavy load knock it back a degree or two. GD

That will work for the moment but is not correct. You need to keep the 1/4" line from the drivers side head to the air filter to create positive flow AND prevent sucking oil from the valve cover. GD

That's a Weber DFV or Holley/Weber 5200. They are a mirror image carb of the 32/36 DGV but often have smaller venturi's, etc. They were common on many Fords - Mustang II's, Pinto's, Cortina's, etc. GD

96 and up 2.5's and 97 and up 2.2's. Everything after that is interference. GD

My experience is that without welding on a new front, it will never hold the headlights, grill, fender, etc straight and perfect again. A come-along and bashing it around with hammers and punches, etc can help a lot but it won't ever really be straight again. That's just my experience though - perhaps someone more patient than I could get it straight again - going to need a torch to heat stuff up with though. GD

Try www.car-part.com - should be able to get one pretty cheap. GD

I just noticed you *didn't* pay $350 (thought you did at first)...... $100 is worth it for a parts car. Not too bad of a deal. Though I'm not sure it's worth it to fix the front end. That looks pretty ugly - I've done a LOT of work to fix stuff that didn't look as bad. GD

Understandable . I'll keep my eyes open for something. GD

Oil in the overflow is a sure sign of HG failiure on the phase-I. Sadly that's pretty conclusive - no other way it can get in there :-\ GD

I don't know but I can try and take some measurements - I have both apart in my garage. GD

It's an unknown used engine - it *might* take that much abuse - and then again it might not. Better to err on the side of caution unless you know the history, etc. LOTS of people have blown these without any boost increase at all. It's just the nature of that engine. GD

Someone made out like a bandit.... not sure it was you but hey - some people like S&M too. . Just not my bag. FWIW I've bought Legacy's in better shape for less...... you realize that has frame damage on the driver's side front right? A proper repair is going to involve welding on a new frame rail (yes I've done it before). But hey - if that's your poison man - whatever. But seriously - good luck with the project. Hope it turns out ok. Don't boost it past 10 psi and don't increase the boost at all without an intercooler. GD

Yeah - with a full rebuild - splitting the block and all - you can expect another 250k out of it easily. If you go with synthetic you possibly get to 350k+ Basically a new car at that point. Most of the hard stuff will be done by the machine shop you use - all you have to do is dissasemble and reassemble. Simple! Buy a cheap engine stand. Worth the $35. GD

Oil pressure reading is taken directly off the pump so it's mostly the pump that is responsible for the pressure - not the bearings. Bad bearings will not show any difference in oil pressure. If you are willing to do it - go ahead and split the block and replace the mains and rod bearings. An EJ22 swap might be cheaper but you don't get that 165 HP for free! IMO losing 30 HP isn't real desireable either so you have to weight your options - a bit more labor and parts to do the bearings vs. saving money, losing HP, and devalueing the car (not a lot of people will want to buy an engine swapped OB on the open market). The heads will run about $450 to $500 for a full rebuild - valves, guides, stem seals, resurface, clean, etc. You are looking at about $400 in parts for head gaskets/timing belt/water pump/seals/hoses, etc. The main and rod bearings and possibly crank machine work will add to that. I would figure at least $1500 in parts and machine work. GD

Use the Legacy 4EAT and put paddle shifters on it. It will do great off-road. The torque converter is all the low range you need. GD

I would say the tranny tried to be in more than one gear at the same time . Clutch lost on this one though I have seen the tranny gears be the loser before as well. Basically something inside the tranny really didn't want to go when the clutch was released. GD

Your head gaskets are shot. GD

That's a really broad question - why don't you tell us what you are trying to fix (and maybe what you are working on!) and we'll try to help. Bubbles in the cooling system might not even be "air" - could be exhaust gasses, etc. GD

I don't know about the Eugene area but have you seen the OBW I have for sale right now? It's over in the for-sale forum if you are interested - it's a '97. GD

Weird - the place I buy mine must have a different listing because I told him 83 hatch and got the 8002. GD

Confirm - ettev's numbers are what I have on my box. GD