GeneralDisorder

I would first determine the cause of the bearing failure. It might not even be the car's fault. I understand your frustration but how much time have you spent changing hubs already? At this point time has already been wasted (not that it was your fault, etc - but wasted none-the-less), and now it's time to get serious and figure out what's actually going on. Haveing done a fair amount of failure analysis over the years I can say that it is often VERY helpful to see what the failure was caused by. I just did an EA front wheel bearing - similar situation - failed soon after replacement (it was a new bearing from a local bearing house). Upon inspection it was found that there was clear brinelling on the inner bearing race - the bearing was very likely dropped prior to installation or some hammering took place durring installation that damaged it. Being a Legacy it should have the tapered roller bearing assembly so it should be as simple as driving out the hub - at which point the outer race can be inspected without pulling it from the knuckle, and the inner races can be inspected easily - one haveing fallen out the rear and the other being still pressed onto the hub..... should only take a few minutes with a socket and a 4lb hammer to have that apart for inspection. GD

I'm assuming he wants a D/R tranny - which would only be from '81 to '89 actually. '79 is a whole different body style and '90 would be a Loyale which didn't come with D/R..... but I'm sure *you* know that already . GD

Yeah - spline rust on the EJ's - that happens and those can be a real chore. The dealer has a special pusher for that occasion. But he's here in the NW where rust isn't an issue and it looks like he's running an EA vehicle (judging by where the post was moved to and his avatar pic) and there's just no reason to use a press on the EA knuckles. The bearings drift right out with a brass punch. GD

I've never used a press on any Subaru wheel bearing. What year/model please? And this should not be in the "Meet 'n Greet" forum . GD

Do you have a failed one around that you can cut the bearing race open on and inspect for the type of failure that occured? An inspection of the bearing will tell you a lot. GD

D/R was in all 4WD, non-turbo, manual transmission GL's from 81 to 89. DL's were single range and '85 to '89 GL turbo's were also single range. GD

Should be fine and probably a good idea for -40* (). It's still an SAE 30 oil at operating temp - the 0w means it still flows at lower temps. For severe cold temps like that - I would DEFINITELY run full synthetic. It flows much better at low temps and will help with cold starting as well as prevent serious startup wear. You should also let the engine warm up for 10 minutes before driving it..... and invest the $35 at the dealer on a block heater for when you have access to power. GD

Where have you been getting these bearings from? Has there been problems with the axle shaft splines being rusted to the hub splines? Hammering on the axle shaft to free it from the hub splines would easily be enough to comprimise the bearing durring removal..... are *you* removing these or are they comming from a yard where some *non-english-speaking* "dissasembler" is pulling them for you? Do you still have any of the failed bearings around? Cut one open and inspect the damage - what kind of failure is occuring? Brinelling could indicate a failure from "hammering" on them durring removal or installation.... etc. Probably time to get real technical about this problem. Failure analysis is called for.... GD

It is clearly you who is ignorant. Here's why: 1. Expecting people to take any kind of reccomendation from you seriously is ignorant - you have no reputation here. 2. You speak of second-hand glowing reports of success with a product that you personally have not tried out - yet you defend it as if it's a religious tenant. 99% of the people on this earth share the same religion as their parents - why do you suppose that is? Yep - Ignorance. 3. You make ludicrous statements such as "all it does is lubricate". Yeah - so does KY and Astroglide - but I wouldn't expect you to know much of either of those . The properties of engine oils are a *little* more complex than that. Again - ignorance. 4. You seem to think you have agitated me in some way (or that I'm bloated!? .... how quaint - attacking my gender! Well done kid!). Nothing could be farther from the truth. I am simply protecting the members here by providing counter-point to your proselytizing. It's of little concern to me what *you* think - I'm not trying to change your opinion - merely to show everyone else how ignorant you are being. 5. You claim it's been tested, proven, etc. But where is the data? You claim something you cannot (evidently) prove to me yet you insist it's true. The mark of ignorance is strong - I ask for proof - yet nothing is given. It is like talking to a child (which I'm sure is not far off). GD

Use the injectors that match your ECU. Always.... unless you do a custom tune (not possible with that ECU) or are running some form of engine management. You will need to use the entire manifold from the '91 since the 95/96 manifold is OBD-II and will not be compatible with the '91 ECU. There might be some cross-over but safe bet is to stick with the '91 electrical components. GD

What "fuel system stuff"? That's like the easiest part - grandpa doesn't think you can handle some gasoline?!? You change some soft lines (to FI rated) and install a different pump - pretty much as simple as that. GD

How about you get not only the knuckle/hub from a donor but also the two links and the strut at the same time from the same car and see if there's any difference? This is pretty bizzare..... you sure it's not something to do with the environment in your shop or your transporting/removal technique of the used part?!? Did I mention this is really weird? GD

I will try this with one of the neighborhood cats. Tell me - does it go: wrench, cat, human, or wrench, human, cat...... I am trying to envision how this works and unfortunately it either ends badly for the cat or badly for me...... GD

Not to mention there weren't even any EA82T's made past '90 And "GL-10" is a trim package - it's meaningless. There were GL-10's that were not turbo. For all intents and purposes around here you can call it and EA82T - because that's what it is. But GLoyale's questions still stands - what year *is* it? '85/'86 would be completely different from '87+ and '87 will be slightly different from '88/'89. If it's from an '85/'86...... RUN AWAY.... FAST! Those are super primitive and you don't want one. Pictures would help. And as always - you should be doing an EJ22 swap. This is going to end badly.... GD

You got anything but a pile of marking hype written by people with degree's in business? That old saying "a little knowledge is a dangerous thing" applies perfectly here. If someone wants to render a USEFUL opinion, he/she should go to college, complete at least an engineering degree, and learn about the fundamentals of research and data collection - such as what constitutes valid conclusions, what constitutes unsubstantiated assumptions that can't be backed up with hard data, what constitutes statistically significant data versus random variation or coincidence, what constitutes real hard data versus unverified "impressions", what constitutes research bias and how to avoid it, etc. After completing such an education, he/she probably won't be thinking the same way anymore... but if he/she still wants to maintain the same opinion, then at least he/she can do so intelligently and may seek some hard data to back up their point of view. Science, at its essence, is a set of rules designed to force us to reason logically, to remove or minimize personal bias, inaccurate assumptions, and all the other things that the average person usually does wrong when trying to think about a problem. Most people simply aren't logical or rational to the degree that science demands, unless trained extensively to think that way... so incorrect conclusions are commonplace, often based on little or no evidence other than what that person wants to think is important. THAT is the essential problem behind many "debates" about subjects such as synthetic oils, oil additives, and everything else that falls into "repair in a bottle" type of discussion. Anecdotal "evidence" by untrained observers is, of course, completely useless and means nothing. You are telling people to put XYZ into their crankcase and have yet to show any evidence that this is in any way useful, while I am advocating the use of precisely what the ENGINEERS said to use in the first place. It is YOU who is untrained and completely biased due to the opinion of your father. I don't see him on this board with any evidence of anything at all nor do I see any actual real-world unbiased testing of this Power Punch stuff - neither here not on their own site. There's a video of some dude whipping some oil like he's making meringue . Sorry but that's snake-oil sales tactics at it's finest. As far as being an engineer - that's just a peice of paper that proves you can sit in a class and listen to somone else's opinions on how the world works. They can fill you with information - but they can't teach you to think for yourself. Information is nearly free - a library card and $20 in late fee's will get you just as much as any degree. Why should I listen to someone that can't spell, punctuate, write out a clear thought process, or come to his own conclusions without making a distinction between truth, opinion, and meaningless marketing hype..... and/or isn't interested in spending the time on this discussion to do any of those things? GD

It's probably due to the corrosion you guys have. I've never seen one leak here. All the copper washers I've had to replace have been on industrial equipment - not brake systems. I would imagine the copper doesn't mix well with the salt and unpainted castings very near to the road surface GD

I see. Good luck with that. Riddle me this Batman - if this stuff makes sunshine fly out of my rump roast then why isn't it already included in the oil additive packages of all the major engine oil suppliers or being reccomended by the manufacturer's of engines? Answer (in case you really are that dense): Because thousands of engineers with more time, money, and resources than you, your father, or his engineer pal put together (x100) have determined that it's either uneccesary or detrimental. Gamble with your own engine - telling people here to put bottles of "wrench in a can" in their engine is irresponsible. As far as flushing with ATF - I only reccomend that on the dirtiest, nastiest engines. And frankly it's usually probably a "too little, too late" type of deal. It's often better to just let it blow apart and replace it instead. But it makes people feel better, doesn't cause any damage running it a few minutes at idle under no load, and sometimes making people feel good about something is important. It usually comes out VERY black compared to how it went in and will often quiet lifters for a time. It is not a permanent fix - mostly it's a "feel good about cleaning my engine" type of deal. GD

It's a 3AT - they didn't make a 4EAT 2WD back in '87. In fact those didn't come out till the Legacy years and only in the EJ platform. 2WD EA's are always the 3AT. How skilled are you with a wrench? We used to have an article around the site here somewhere about the 3AT governor piston repair. Basically the governor is on the passenger side of the transmission under a bowl-shaped cover - you remove the cover and pull the governor out. Then you can remove the spring clips that hold the piston and spring into the valve body. It's a matter of cleaning up the edges of the piston with a small file or sharpening stone so the piston slides smoothly in it's bore..... GD

Power Punch? WTF is that? What qualifications does your dad have and has he ever worked on a Subaru or know anything about oil composition or lubrication properties? MMO, Rislone, etc are fine products - but in essence they are ATF or very close relatives of same with a much higher price tag. ATF is a high-quality SAE 10 oil. It's very high in detergents and is rated for high-pressure applications (gears). Anything that MMO, Seafoam, Rislone, etc will do - ATF will do just as well and considereably cheaper. If you a have a problem with oil delivery then FIX IT - check the oil pump (backing plate) and seal, replace worn out lifters, etc. Repair in a bottle is just going to cause problems. There should be nothing but OIL in your oil. An occasional ATF flush (run 20 to 30 minutes at idle with ATF) is alright to clean out some of the gunk that will just foul your new oil.....but otherwise just run straight, clean oil. All these additives that people talk about are just soaking up the money from your wallet. Nothing more. They will not effect a lasting, permanent repair. If the oil pump is ok (this should be checked first) then you can simply convert to solid lifters from a '97+ EJ22, etc. Then you don't have to bother with replacing lifters and the associated expense. GD

I've reused hundred (maybe thousands) of copper washers over the years (not just on brake systems). 99% of the time they are fine. Occasionally you have to replace one but it's generally the exception. GD

Really? Why is that Gary? I thought the EJ and XT6 outer's were virtually identical. But I haven't closely inspected them side-by-side. GD

You *are* useing the XT6 front lower control arms right? That's what gives the added length needed to use the longer axles.... GD

Engine cross-member (or modded) to clear the exhaust...... GD

Personally I like to use the EA81 flywheel in order to keep the timing marks correct and not have to mess with the bell-housing. I have had them resurfaced to .815" step height. Then the XT6 clutch parts (from the dealer as aftermarket don't seem to be anywhere close to correct). You can use everything for an XT6 if you have the step height reground. This setup has worked fine for me. GD

If it's an '82 or newer the only one's that came with the EA71 in the US are the "STD" model hatchbacks. Everything else made after '81 was an EA81 or EA82 by default. To the left of the distributor on the block is printed the "EA71" or "EA81" indentification. GD