GeneralDisorder

Double check the temp with an infrared temp gun - check the temp behind the upper radiator hose on the *bottom* of the thermostat housing. It might be that your gauge is not accurate (common) and you have a partially clogged heater core. OEM thermostat's are 192*F and you should see about 185* to 200* on the thermostat housing with the temp gun and the engine warmed up - watch for the fan to cycle on and back off again before checking it - make sure that neither the AC or defrost are selected so the fan will not run unless tripped by the thermo-switch in the radiator. GD

Yep - tranny is junk. GD

I got it to troll Craigslist when I'm not home. . It's how I eat these days. Got to snatch the deals before the rabble moves in. GD

I just got a new phone with an 8 M-pixel unit in it. Technology is freakin amazing. I'm also currently posting from said phone. GD

Sounds hosed from your description. If the cylinders will hone out then likely you could change the main and rod bearings and be ok. Pics? How deep is the damage? GD

I agree - dealer only on the flex-joint donuts. Get both sides VERY clean then assemble and the bolts should be run down clear to the shoulder so the springs are fully compressed. GD

Exactly - use that temp gun to check the coolant cross-over temp right behind the upper radiator hose. Should be in the 170* to 190* range once fully warm. GD

Did it get overheated severely? GD

That's a little high on the resurface charge (the two shops I use charge $30 per and $40 per depending on which I take them to). So you are going to do the valve adjust yourself without actually doing a grind I take it? GD

They say an active mind can ward off Alzheimer's.... at least for a short time . GD

My Brat would die on hard corners under 1/4 tank. Depending on your driving style and if you typically run your tank half-full or half-empty it can and will suck air and kill the engine with a non-baffled tank. GD

Yeah - I totally missed those . Got me good on that one Ken GD

Hhhmmm - yes if you are in Europe it could have almost anything in it. I've seen pictures of that same body with a factory EA71 carb in it (Isreal I think ). But since you listed the *mileage* and the price is in $.... and it doesn't say "Leone" on the side..... I'm thinking you are in the states. And that looks like a very American Suburb to my American eyes. Especially with the convert. Mustang in the next driveway GD

Yes ABS is no good but PVC is ok for gasoline. (white instead of black). GD

They never fail. You should check the coolant cross-over temp with a temp gun - the thermostat may be sticking open. I've had this happen a lot on my parent's Ford's. All the EJ gauge senders are the same AFAIK. They are 1/8" NPT or BSPT and are on the coolant cross over toward the passenger side - real biotch to access them. GD

Under each cam lobe is a shim - it sits on the bucket - which is like an inverted shot-glass that sits directly atop the valve stem. This is known as the "Bucket and Shim" system. It's specific to the DOHC type engines typically. Other manufacturers use it as well - Subaru is not unique in their use of bucket/shim for DOHC designs. Some makers have gone to hydraulic buckets without the shim while Subaru (in 2003?) went to "shimless buckets" where the shim is now part of the bucket and when you do a valve adjustment you replace the entire bucket...... Clear as mud? And yes - if you so choose you in fact could convert to shimless buckets at this time. Though the cost is about $300 at the dealer parts counter...... GD

The shims are on top of the buckets - which are on top of the valve springs. They are there. Yes - bring the entire head - cams and all. They won't need the valve covers but all the rest, yes. GD

Can't really tell much from that quality of photo. The tiny details are what matter when you are talking about blown head gaskets - The key is to look for a spot in the fire ring where there is carbon tracking or it otherwise looks different from the "normal" look they have after being removed. This cylinder wall damage is interesting - I would lilke a more detailed photo of that if you can get one. This is more concerning than where the gasket blew out because it's unusual and the gasket blow-out is common and expected with the flawed original gaskets anyway. GD

You can do a "hand impact" using your 1/2" ratchet and a heavy hammer. Just let the cam spin - whack it repeatedly till the bolt spins free. Inertia will loosen it for you. Around my shop, we call techniques such as this "using the force". GD

The early tensioners compress in 5 minutes or less. 30 minutes is WAY overkill. You need to go slowely - as fast as it will easily *let* you go. But 30 minutes is rediculous. Leave the cogged ilder and lower smooth ilder off. Line everything up, install the belt and hold the belt in tension by pulling on it where the cogged idler runs. Then install the cogged idler, and then the smooth idler. Pull the pin on the tensioner and double-check your marks. When you have done a few it will take you about 2 minutes to do the SOHC belts. DOHC belts are a real biotch - they take like 3 minutes GD

You have two options - use an impact or remove the valve cover and there are some flat spots on the cam where you can put a wrench. Personally I just use an impact. GD

Your Baja engine is SOHC (unless it's a turbo). The 2.7 is the ER27 - it came in the 88/89/91 XT6 and is based on the EA82 but with two more cylinders. As far as engines - here in the US we have had: 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, 1.8, 2.0, 2.2, 2.5, 2.7, 3.0, 3.3, and 3.5 I haven't looked but it sounds like they aren't too far off..... No - 105k is the interval for your engine. With the 105k car - my opinion is a definite YES. Do you really want to take the factory water pump to 210k?!? On the older 60k belt cars I say every other belt. Yep - for $65 I'm not going to skip it..... Change both at 105k. I've seen factory water pumps seize at 130k. There's too many factors to estimate it but 100k to 120k is a good safe run for a WP. This is not a Fiat. Quality replacement parts are availible - for water pumps on Subaru's both Aisin and Paraut make OEM quality pumps. It's not a jeep either. Around here we all use the ebay belt kits (theimportexperts, or mizumoauto are my favorite sellers) without any problems. The rule is that if you use the aftermarket kits - replace everthing EVERY TIME. They are cheap enough that it's just good insurance. Subaru belts haven't been spec'd to 60k in well over a decade. It's been 105k since the late 90's. This should be in your owners manual.... GD

There are no rockers on the DOHC - just the cams. When you remove the cams the bolts will be accesible. 6 of them. It's best to have an engine stand so you can put the engine at a 45* angle to the floor - that way the buckets and shims won't fall out while you are loosening the head bolts. After you remove the head, reinstall the cams but don't torque the cam bearings or anything - the machine shop will need the cams and bucket/shims to do the valve adjustment when they grind your valves - they will have to take material off the stems. As a side benefit though the machine shop should be able to reuse most of your shims which will save you $6 each on those. If it had any piston slap you could replace the pistons with the coated one's that Subaru provided to cure the problem for customers that were annoyed by it and complained. But in the interest of saving money it's really not neccesary as piston slap is not a serious problem. If the rear main is not leaking - don't touch it. They typically only fail after someone replaces one. They are silicone and typically last the life of the engine. DO replace the oil seperator plate and bolts. Likely it will already be leaking anyway as you will have the plastic one. Cam/crank seals for sure. Cam seals will come out when you pull the cams anyway and you should pull the oil pump, reseal it (loctite 518) and replace it's o-ring. Water pump, timing belt and all components of course.... As for online dealers - here's the two I've used: www.subarupartsforyou.com www.1stsubaruparts.com Both are dealerships so both will sell the 4 layer gaskets - it's the only gasket availible for your engine according to the parts listings so you don't have to worry about not getting the right one. GD

Last I checked the American V8 from the 50's to the 80's needed a new timing chain and sprockets about every 100k miles. They get very sloppy and risk skipping much past that. Some of the more modern stuff is better, but the older one's are not going to last 300k - hell the whole freakin engine is just about shot at 150k on most of them GD

Search - it's been covered weekly for years. Search for "EA81 5 speed swap" or "EA81 five speed swap". GD