GeneralDisorder

Knock sensors went through a revision, but only change it if you are getting the code for it. Buy a new one they are only about $55. Fuel pumps are not the same for the N/A vs. Turbo. If it needs a pump it's best to just buy a Walbro for it. Agreed - they can get up to 25 or so highway though. In town is usually around 18 or less. All turbo's run crazy rich - more air means more fuel = more power. Especially under boost. GD

Yep - that's the downfall of that engine. It's got nothing to do with the speed, and everything to do with the oil pump. They always fail, and they always need rod bearings. It's the way of the Justy. You should have come here and done some research. That could have been diagnosed and fixed..... before there was a hole in the block . There's no swaps for those - the engine is transverse. Totally the black sheep of the Subaru family. Best bet is to find a replacement engine and do the oil pump and rod bearings BEFORE you blow it up. GD

That's a good, low mileage for a 22T. Excelent deal if the body isn't too rusty. Even then you could rip the engine out and sell it for a grand. They are very sought after being Subaru's only 2.2 fully closed deck block. Legendary so to speak. With some WRX 2.0 or Gen 1/2 2.5 heads, an intercooler and a larger turbo there's quite a number of folks into the 300 HP and low 12 second range. The auto tranny can be swapped and frankly isn't a big deal since the manual's they came with are weak at higher performance levels. They are about as reliable as the N/A 22. Only real problems with them generally stem from poor maintenance. Right before Subaru originally introduced the Legacy in 90 (so late 89) they brought a handful of these turbo's to the US and ran them 24/7 for several weeks stopping only for routine maintenance. The cars racked up something like 65,000 miles without a single failure. The cooling systems need to be maintained. If they go things get ugly in a big way. I just aquired a 91 SS (Sport Sedan) that hasn't seen the road in three years due to a cooling system mishap that took out the engine (melted the block), radiator, and heater core all at once. These engines are rare, parts tend to be expensive, and it was around $5,000 to put it back on the road.... and I've not even started modding it yet. The only thing that's somewhat distressing about the engine itself is they have piston oil squirters in the crank that have a tendancy to fall out - this can lead to a lack of lubrication to other critical engine parts as there will be a pressure loss when the spray nozzle is gone. There's four of them and folks have reported as many as three of them falling into the oil pan. It's also pretty much agreed that they are uneccesary. Much higher performing turbo's including the 22B Impreza (280 HP on the same block) never came with them. The thought is that Subaru was overly cautious about their reputation in the US market at the time and added them due to fears of piston overheating because of the lack of an intercooler on these models. It's a complete engine teardown to plug them though so unless you find them in the pan it's not a huge worry. The turbo's only came as either the Sport Sedan (manual and auto versions), and the Touring Wagon (auto only). 160 HP, 181 Ft/lbs stock. Sounds like a pretty easy fix. It's most likely a sensor or something on the fritz making it not idle. A hookup to the B10 scan tool will tell you much: http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/b10scan/ GD

Carb or SPFI? Check your tire pressure first, and verify your speedo isn't slow. Have someone pace you with another rig and make sure the speedo and trip are reading correctly. GD

Probably a lot of factors at play. First - please describe the complete formula and procedure you use to calculate your mileage. GD

Make sure it has a thermostat. That's a little cool, but those gauges should be checked against a known gauge. GD

2000 amps at what voltage? 110 for lighting/sound? That's only about a 250 Kw generator. While this isn't real small, it's not terribly large either. But you couldn't run it with a Subaru motor. GD

Most gens have a peak, and a continuous rating. For example, a 10 Kw generator may have a peak of 25 Kw for motor starts, etc. It's common on the smaller generators to see stuff like that. On the larger generators they don't rate them quite the same - you generally want to load them up around 80% or higher load to keep the engine's from running too cold (diesel's do not like that), but on larger unit's this is done with compensating load banks that burn off the extra power as heat when the unit is not being loaded sufficiently. This has the added benefit that you can heat a small warehouse with the load bank - which is essentially a big resistance heater coil. Also on larger units, the tendency is headed toward more sophisticated equipment loads. Most of our larger compressors are running VFD (variable frequency drive) motors that don't require huge loads to start and stop. They can idle up slowly, and idle back when not in use. Thus they also have an unlimited start cycle. Power companies are bracketing folks by using "peak load" conditions so that if you start a non-VFD compressor just once each day your rates will skyrocket because of the Amp spike caused by the start - even though you haven't used any more electricity. You jump into the next "service bracket" because of the peak demand, so your Kw/H price increases compared to lower bracketed customers. We rent a LOT of generators - lots of cell tower backup is done with rentals as the locations are often remote and it would be cost-prohibitive for them to buy generators for every tower. Also difficult to secure them at some of the more remote site's. GD

What kind of power output were you looking for? It takes a LOT of power to generate large amounts of electricity. I wouldn't see that tiny little Subaru engine being able to power more than about 150 Kw. Although that's a decent sized generator. Some of the smaller trailer mounted gens I work on use Isuzu 4 cylinder diesel's. But anything over 200 Kw is going to need more power - 6 cylinder or larger. We have a 1,000 Kw at work that's running a 650 HP Mitsubishi Twin Turbo V10 for example.... Also - the tendancy is toward trailer mounted generators now. Truck mounted units are not at all popular. Trailers can have a lower center of gravity, and a larger set tank. And you can run cable quite a long distance with the load bank/cable reel trailers we use. Of course smaller units can be truck mounted, but those are generally the 25 Kw and smaller portable units. GD

That link is for EA82 clocks. EA81 clocks are part of the cluster, and don't suffer from the poor solder-joint problem that the EA82's do. In your case the problem is only the clock memory, which is controlled by a plug under the dash. It was to be plugged in when the vehicle was delivered to the dealership to avoid battery drain in shipping. Just look under the dash and you'll probably see it. It's not the green/blue set under there as those are for the EGR lamp.... I can't recall the wire color's off the top of my head but it should just be a single wire with either a bullet connector, or going into a two wire T plug. Should have constant 12v for the clock memory. GD

Yeah - sounds like an oil cooler sandwitch. The early EJ22 Turbo's used them as well. I don't know how they mount on the H6's, but most just screw on using the center pipe, or a nut on same. There should be o-rings for sealing. GD

Check this out: http://audiport.com/info/cupholder.htm And here's a cheaper version of a similar design: http://www.ultimatecupholders.com/fischercupholder.html GD

LS and LSi never came with 5 speeds, they were always automatics. So you are looking for an L, GT, or any of the other '94 special editions if you want the N/A 2.2 and the 5 speed. There's also the EJ22T Sport Sedan, but those are getting aweful rare. 2.2, AWD 5 speed is the way to go. 96 Outbacks are the most sought after as they have both and the lifted suspension as well. 95 Outbacks had the low suspension. GD

No. And not all 85's will still have it as often the coil-over's have been replaced. You can always change the springs. GD

The dash was swapped - read the VIN from the firewall in the engine bay. Your's is 2WD being a 5 speed. 4WD's were 4 speed only. GD

NO. Boreing without a bore plate will result in the sleeves spinning in the block. Hone only, no oversize pistons. If you need oversize then you need a new block. GD

I've parted many cars, and purchased many ECU's from my junk yards (my yards have dozens at all times) and I have yet to see a black ECU in a post-'90 vehicle. Talking SPFI Loyale's and GL's only here - not turbo's, MPFI XT's, or any of that. It's possible to find one of course, but it's a swap if you do. The ECU's are rugged, but if you hookup the battery backwards they will blow in about 30 seconds. This has surely led to a few being swapped with different years. Across the board the black ECU's don't have the neutral switch and the silver one's do. I challenge anyone here to systematically prove this to be inaccurate. Parts books and eBay auctions listed by people that can't even remember what type of transmission it came from are hardly to be trusted. It's difficult to find parts books that are RIGHT on Subaru stuff - that's why most of us use the dearship now. If you want part numbers - go to the dealer and find someone in parts that actually has a brain. GD

Tire pressure, ball joints, tie rod's/ends, struts. Check all those. You'll probably find that each of them played a part in the car's overall poor handling. It's just old. GD

That's how they come out - should just pull straight up. There's no trick to them. The one's you encountered must just be stuck with oil varnish. GD

What do you need to know about it? There's not much to the manual - it's pretty dry reading. I don't know of any in electronic form but they show up from time to time on ebay. Also check glove boxes at the junk yard - I've found untold numbers of owners manuals in yard cars. GD

Here's some neat plans for a more advanced unit: http://www.majorleagueduning.com/tech/Brake/Brake.htm GD

Check this out: http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/how-to/video/bend-sheet-metal-without-brake.aspx With a bit more engineering you could make a nicer setup that could bend over 90 degrees (bevel the 2x on a table saw for instance), and by adding some handles to the break you could get it to handle thicker material.... For a one-off rocker peice it's definately doable. For very little money you could make the peice you need. Again - I would consider using stainless. But it is harder to work with and doesn't weld as nicely unless you have access to TIG. It welds nice with stick, but sheet metal isn't real condusive to that.... GD

Would be pretty easy to make some lengths of rocker section like 88HatchMonster did if you have access to a sheet metal break. You can make some amazing, professional looking stuff with sheet metal. Could even do them from stainless if you are so inclined. Wouldn't be a bad idea to invest in one for future projects. Just a small one would do for the small section you need. GD

Swaying how? Was it not holding a straight line for you (steering) or was the car actually rocking side to side on the suspention? Swaying is a bit ambiguous... explain to us what it's really doing? GD

Yes, but only on the STD model. GL's and DL's would be EA81's. GD