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GeneralDisorder

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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder

  1. Yeah - probably an EA81 rotor. Try ordering for an 89, or going to another store. GD
  2. Yep - they are virtually indistiguishable. There's a slight difference in the way the heat shield is welded on, but other than that they are the same. Word is that when the supply of 22T pipe's runs out the part number will be superceded by the STi part number. GD
  3. Found these on eBay - Inexpensive, and can monitor a multitude of signals. The seller on eBay seems to be the manufacturer of these. Here's the web site: http://auberins.com/ Specifically, this device: http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=19 And the eBay auction (comes with the thermocouple for EGT). http://cgi.ebay.com/DIGITAL-EGT-THERMOMETER-PYROMETER-W-Probe_W0QQitemZ190195613189QQihZ009QQcategoryZ50974QQcmdZViewItem Pretty neat little gadget as it's programmable and can be reconfigured for a bunch of different sensors, and can interpret their output's however you like. It works with GM MAP sensors, etc. I'll give a review when I get mine and try it out. The feedback on ebay seems very positive, and the price is quite good if it does all it says. GD
  4. Your question is WAY too vague. You will likely need to look at an 84 FSM to figure out the vacuum routing and where the orifices go for your specific configuration (feedback/non, MT/auto, etc). GD
  5. The problem is they are too large generally. They slow down the exhaust stream so the turbo spool is poor. Larger is not always better. The smaller pipe speeds up flow, and the turbine helps to extract it. They work together, and AFAIC, the aftermarket units are mostly bunk unless you get into extremely large turbo's (which generally spool like old people ____ anyway). I agree that the catted pipe is a bad idea. But the STi/22T unit is not catted, and it's very well made with built-in heat shields. GD
  6. Rarely do the ign. switches fail on EA81's. That's a classic EA82 problem. The EA81 switches suffer from other ailments - some you have to not turn quite as far as another poster above noted. Some you have to pull the key out about 1/16" before they will turn. And sometimes the pink connector for the switch gets hot and burns the plastic. But the EA82 classic bad switch or bad harness is rare - at least I haven't seen it on the dozen or more I've owned. GD
  7. I didn't say anything about catted up-pipe's. I said the STi uses the same pipe as the 22T's, and that aftermarket units don't generally stack up to the quality of those units. Nor is a larger pipe any more condusive to performance. IE: if I were going to replace the catted pipe, I would replace it with the STi/22T unit, rather than aftermarket. And if he has access to one, he should consider replacing the cobb unit that's in it now. I've not yet been conviced of the benefits of any of these. My other important point is that the stock headers are very durrable, flow very well, and since it all must flow through the up-pipe there's no reason to change those either. Other people have other opinions, but those are mine. GD
  8. One interesting thing of note when you are doing exhaust work - there's virtually nothing to be gained with the up-pipe and headers. The STi's use the same up-pipe as the 90 to 94 EJ22T - it's even the same part number! All the exhaust has to flow through that one little pipe, and if the stock unit can handle 300+ HP...... In fact quite a few folks have shown a decrease in performance with other than stock headers and up-pipe's. Lots of issues with cracking, poor turbo spool, etc. There's a pretty good movement toward just using the stock stuff actually as it works very well up to 300 HP or so. Down-pipes, mid's, and mufflers are fair game though. Anything after the turbo can be improved quite a bit. GD
  9. I had the same thought. The SPFI injector must be stuck open or partially open. GD
  10. There were too many law suits related to roll-over's so the seats were removed after 85. They were then imported as trucks with the full tarrif of same. Subaru discontinued the Brat for the US market after 87 due to the high tarrif and the inability to bypass it with the seats - either way they were screwed out of any possible profit so they gave up. Other countries got the Brat/Brumby/MV till 94. The seats were bolted down with special anti-theft style bolts to a tube frame that was installed here in the US after they came off the boat. Only US models got the seats. Other countries got such diverse options as 2WD models, and Isreal (at least) got extended bed models for extra hauling. Most models in countries other than the US and AUS were actually 2WD. Lots of differences but the US was the only place that got the seats. GD
  11. Also - just to check the wireing for certain - does it read full pressure when the engine is not running but the ignition is on? If so you still have a grounding issue or the sender itself has malfunctioned internally. If not definately follow Jerry's advice and remove the pump. DO NOT drive the car till it's fixed or you risk internal engine damage. GD
  12. It is not generally the battery terminal itself, or the cable *end*. It is the cable itself where it connects to the end - especially if the end has been replaced at some point with the silly lead one's. I hate those things. Always use the appropriate steel clamp cable ends whenever possible. GD
  13. If it were a fusible link, or the connection the link box, he would not get a click of the solenoid. He would get nothing at all. Being that the solenoid clicks, his problem is one of two things: 1. Bad connections at the ground wire or the positive starter cable. And Ohmeter is no good here as the connection may go through, but may not be transfering enough amps. 2. Bad contacts in the solenoid itself. But he claims to have replace the starter. So he needs to check #1 first. GD
  14. Had that happen to me before... The crappy positive cable to the starter (they are alumnium) was nearly broken clean throught at the battery terminal. Sometimes it's difficult to see. You might consider replacing the terminals on general principle. I've had two EA81's do this. Just replaced both terminals on my hatch too. Use a hacksaw to cut the bad end off and replace the terminal with a new one. Dielectric grease is a good thing here, as well as those little felt pads that go under the terminals. GD
  15. EA81 yes? That's the torsion bar tube. It's possible that one of the torsion bars is broken or stripped. So yes - definately pull that sucker out and check it. Oh - and grease doesn't go there. Also it's "Zerk" not "Zert" - applogies if that was simply a typo. GD
  16. Something funny about the way the wireing for the ignition switch is setup I suspect. Just installing an EA82 alone would not do it - I've got an EA82 with SPFI in my Brat and it acts just like stock. I would be looking under the column to see what's going on with the ignition switch. It sounds like power was routed to some circuits and is bypassing the switch. GD
  17. Short in the sender line to ground. The sender is under the oil pump near the filter. Trace the line and see what it's touching/where the insulation is missing. GD
  18. Not if it isn't running. Bad Alt would illuminate the idiot lights or flicker them due to AC current from the regulator. They are not supposed to be on with the igntion off nor would a bad alt cause that. GD
  19. If you have access to a torch you can heat the bracket, soak it in penetrant (while it's hot), and use an impact on them. Should come right out - do it all the time at work with stuff that's increddibly frozen. You have to be able to put a LOT of heat on the bracket VERY fast. And then you have a limted time before the bolt equalizes in temp. You want the bracket to expand, but not the bolt. You can heat, and then carefully ice the bolt head as well. Then impact the sucker out of there. GD
  20. Seriously hinky, DIY wireing from a PO I would guess. Start pulling panels and looking for crimp connectors and wire nuts.... *shudder* Why not fix the turbo? EA81T's are pretty neat in their own way. GD
  21. You would trust a walmart employee to cut a key? You are a lot more brave than I sir. Go to a locksmith - pay the $5. Keep a decent locksmith in business. No superstore has any business cutting keys with minimum wage employees. That's just asking for trouble. GD
  22. There will be a manual shifter release button - probably under a snap off cap around the shifter area. The key code is printed on the passenger door lock mechanism. Have one cut by the code, and take the ignition lock apart and remove the bit of old key. Should be able to fish it out if you have a few hours. GD
  23. Spray things down with carb cleaner - when the engine changes pitch or stumbles you have found a leak. GD
  24. double-nut the studs and remove them from the pulley. GD
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