GeneralDisorder

Not very close at all. The Phase I gaskets are .152cm thick, while the phase II are only .058cm thick. Different design entirely, and only one third as thick. GD

The 11mm bolts used in the EA82's would require a LOT more than 47 Ft/lbs to stretch any amount they would be unable to recover from. Trust me on this one. They do stretch, but the amount is so tiny after they recover when removed that it would take hundreds of uses to even notice it. Perhaps thousands. You can easily test this by taking a thread pitch gauge to them. If they stretched any noticeable amount then the thread pitch would change and the guage wouldn't match up. Try it and see. I've stretched a few bolts in my line of work . You would be amazed what all-thread will handle when used with various pullers and hydrualics GD

Wireing. This swap is all about wireing. The mechanical side pales by comparison. USDM STi's are fly-by-wire throttle.... you have the DCCD, etc. Wheel speed sensors were never an option on the EA82 chassis (never had ABS), so modified axles with sensor ring's are needed, etc, etc. Plus the GL suspension sucks, the steering sucks, the brakes suck, the body has no real stiffness, the interior's suck, the seats suck, etc, etc. Basically they do a whole lot of sucking in general. Great for an affordable, 4WD family beater though. You are talking about building a whole new vehicle using only the body of a GL. That's fine. So long as you realize that this is less a retro-fit, and more of a body-swap. NOTHING will match up. Many guages won't work with the newer sensors, etc. If you want an older-looking Subaru sleeper, then get a Gen 1 Legacy Turbo. At least then you can benefit from all the EJ bolt-on's. If you *really* want it, it can be done. But the cost is prohibitive, and the car will never handle or ride like an STi - the suspension is just too primitive and there's no good ways around that short of big $$ into custom parts. You can make it better than it was for sure, but it will still be a hazard to drive with 300+ HP. I'm just pointing out that there's a lot more to consider than massive HP. GD

No one makes performance "shoes". There wouldn't be a point, or a market as the only vehicles that sport the drums are the ultra low-end versions like the brighton, and the entry Imps. In fact no legacy came with drums till 95. 90 to 94 (which are plentiful in yards) should bolt right on to the rear of your 96. I would just get a used set of rear discs and a new set of stock pads. Rear drums are for the birds. GD

Completely different - the phase I is a DOHC head. The phase two is a SOHC. Different manifolds, different gaskets, etc. GD

That is refered to as an "A" Bar. Brush gaurds are different. Anyway - mock it up and see. It's very difficult to tell from a picture alone. That looks to be the correct bar for a 4WD EA81 - as for it's fit with metal bumpers vs. plastic..... try and see. It looks like it might bolt to the front of the bumper. GD

Unfortunately that tells me nothing. I need to know where the hoses go (IE: what they connect to) to get a feeling for what it is. There's too many variations on the carb models to give an idea of that it is. It could affect driveability, or not - depending on what it does. But it's unlikely in any event that it will actually cause harm if it's disconnected. There's very few things (if any) carb related that if disconnected could actually damage your engine. Most will just run like poop. GD

There's guy's at legacycentral pulling in 12's with modded EJ22T's. Some pretty heavily modded of course - to the point of blowing up JDM WRX transmissions. STi stuff - the recent US versions anyway - are far more complicated than they need to be with reggard to swapping into an EA82 body. GD

I call BS - his claims are entirely dependant on the technician doing the work. I can (and have) done plenty of quality HG repairs with the engine in the car. His comment about fluids is baseless - just jack up each side as you go so they are slanted slightly. An inch or two is all you need to keep the fluids out of the way. Surface prep is easy if you have the right tools and the knowledge to use them. Anyone that uses a roto-loc or flapper wheel, etc on HG surfaces should not be working any precision machinery to begin with. Head Gaskets CAN be done properly in the vehicle. It saves time, and does not hamper a technician that knows what he's doing. You can also be *too* anal about this issue. There's a point at which the sufaces can be too smooth even. The gasket requires a certain roughness to properly adhere. I could go on all day about RA, and ways of properly measureing it.... but at the end of the day all that's required is that the surfaces be flat, clean (free of gasket material, dirt, oil, fluids and solvents), and be relatively smooth - about a 600 grit finish is excelent. These are not swiss watches, although some attempt to make them seem that way. Drop by my work and I'll show you machines that are far more demanding.... GD

Junk yard. Or just figure out what it's for and perhaps you can either bypass it or disable it. Is it a thermo-vacuum valve? What valve is it, and what is it's function? You'll have to trace the vacuum lines to figure out what it's doing. GD

Actually even that is the same - it's just rotated 90 degree's. I put an 81 Brat tranny into an 82 Brat. You have to rotate the 4WD bit, but otherwise they are identical to any other 81/82 4 speed D/R. GD

Ask and ye shall...... http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html There's a link at the bottom to a write up by snowman that deals specifically with the EA82 - which is far easier than the EA81 to convert. GD

Yeah - sadly they are dealer only parts. But at least they are inexpensive. Check that the bolts aren't worn out, or anything else badly worn. It's usually just the bushings though. On the flip-side, you could always snag a linkage from the yard that feels better, and either just use it, or install the bushings on the spare and just slip it right in. It's only like 6 bolts, a cotter pin, and the interior consoles. GD

Carrier is easy - just two bits of metal bent and drilled. And it's the same amount of work either way. I say swap the tranny first. The engine swap will be that much easier because the tranny is already in place. GD

The 81 Brat tranny is the same as any other EA81 4 speed D/R. Adapting the EJ22 to it should be as simple as drilling the EA81 flywheel and using the commonly availible adaptor plates that folks sell. GD

Just drift them out and the new one's in. No pressing required. The pin-socket for the ring nut is useful though. Often they are frozen with rust and muck - the socket allows you to use an impact on them. GD

On the 5 speed's it's generally just needing new bushings. It's like $30 for all the bushings. Just a bunch of nylon getting old and worn.... GD

Now we are getting somewhere. 1. Get some brake cleaner or carb cleaner. Spray all around the carb - at the base, the throttle shafts, etc. If you hear the engine change pitch (RPM increase) then you have a leak near the location of the spray. Fix any leaks you find. Trace as much of the vacuum line system as you can. 2. Look down the carb throat while revving the engine. Use a flashlight if you need to. Pay special attention to the spray pattern of the primary and secondary jets. You should see a fairly even spray pattern. If it's dribbling, or not spraying evenly this will need to be addressed with a carb tear down. Make sure the accelerator pump isn't leaking and is pumping fuel each time you rotate the throttle. 3. Check the operation of the distributor vacuum advance pot. Hook a section of vacuum line to the pot and suck on it. It should move the advance plate inside the disty and it should HOLD it there if you pinch the line while sucking on it. If it bleeds down faster than 10 seconds or so, the diaphragm is shot. 4. Verify the timing is set to about 8 degree's BTDC. You can use a timing light, but you can also just set it static when the engine isn't running. Verify TDC on #1 using a drinking straw. When the timing marks come up on the flywheel, both valves are closed (you'll feel air escaping with your finger), and the straw says it's at TDC, align the timing mark with 8 degrees BTDC, and then move the distributor till it's pointing directly at the #1 plug wire tower. This will be close enough to 8 degrees if you are careful. I'm usually within a half of a degree if not dead nuts on 8. 5. Check for slop in the timing belts. They get loose as they stretch and allow the timing to jump all over the place. They should be adjusted if you don't remember the last time it was done. Or just replaced if you don't remember the last time that was done either. Make sure the crank sprockets are on in the correct order (the one with the groove in the back goes next to the crank seal). Beyond that how is the idle speed? Overall running of the engine? Does it miss and stumble? Does it accelerate smoothly with apparent power? Are there dead spots in the throttle? If so where? The amount of mileage loss you are describing could only be attributed to a number of problems occuring simultaneously. Start adjusting and ruling out things one by one. At the end of the day you may need to rebuild that carb. I've done plenty of Hitachi's and they are no picknik to rebuild. The biggest source of problems I had when rebuilding them was problematic cheap rebuild parts. Most especially the float needles and seats. Buy the highest quality rebuild parts you can get. Weber's are decent. But they can be a pain to tune at times, and they require seasonal tuning. They have a tendancy to bog out on hard cornering, or severe off-angle running unless the float is set in a posistion that is not desireable for decent mileage. The far better option is SPFI - especially for you as your EA82 is already setup for it. It's basically a bolt-on and crimp some wireing. The cost is generally less than a Weber with all the performance and none of the drawbacks. It does, however, require about 150% more labor to install. A couple weekends anyway if you haven't done it before. Straight Weber swaps can be done in a day, maybe two if you have all the right stuff. Still I prefer the SPFI having run multiple vehicles with both. GD

If you still want one, keep looking. They are out there. I passed up a 94 Auto Sport Sedan last year for $600 that I'm kicking myself over still. For some reason the turbo's you find often are fairly low mileage. I attribute this to their higher fuel consumption (given a choice, people drive something else perhaps ), and that they were THE most expensive Subaru durring those years. I think the buyers were often older, and not as prone to flogging them or driving tons of miles up on them. Of the one's I know: 1. 92 SS - Friends car - bought in '02 with 105k, sold at 120k (for more than he paid). 2. 94 SS - 140k - $600. 3. 94 TW - 110k - wrecked - donated it's engine to my 91 SS. 4. My own 91 SS - 140k - now with 110k engine from above. So.... they are out there. And for the most part they don't tend to have high mileage. Attribute this to what you will, but from what I've seen that's just the way of things. If you want one, head over to legacycentral.org - there's people selling them quite often for reasonable amounts. Often with go-fast parts installed.... GD

What gives you this "feeling"? Do you have evidence of poorly operating injectors? They do not often fail or clog. Especially if the vehicle has been driven regularly. GD

Why does someone always have to make this mistake?!? They are NOT rebadged anything. The swift and the metro are Suzuki designs with either 1.0 or 1.3 liter engines. The Justy is a Fuji design with a 1.2 liter engine. It's got 3 valves per cylinder, and shares no parts with the Suzuki engine. Really, they are only similar in that they are small transverse 3 cylinder's. They never even made a swift or metro with 4WD. NOT THE SAME. GD

These are not OBD-II cars - there is no code reader besides the Subaru select monitor or the B10 scan tool I linked to in my previous post that will read from them. They are self-diagnosing to an extent through he CEL via two sets of plugs under the column. But it's less than useful for a lot of things really. The turbo itself is not actually visible. It's under a heat "chimney" that funnels air from the scoop over the turbo. Same place as on an N/A legacy. It's a panel filter under a big black plastic housing. Again - its nearly the same. Right after the air filter. GD

Ok - so it's carbed. Now we need to know if it's a feedback carb or not. Do you have an Oxygen sensor right in front of the catalytic converter? Should be a single wire dingus screwed into the "crotch" of the y-pipe. GD

Does it have a different feel if the engine is not running? Easier? If so you may need to tighten the clutch cable, or it might be stretching. Check for both and you might want to pick up an extra (dealer only) for about $20 just to have it on hand. Easy to replace. They can and do sometimes snap. Just remember it goes UNDER both the steering column and the heater core hoses. GD

SPFI heads won't have the ports for the ASV's, but you can just delete those. Have him double check the manifold gaskets. Non OEM gaskets are prone to this. OEM only and only 12 ft/lbs on VERY clean surfaces. Non-turbo heads rarely crack. I would be extreemly surprised if that was actually the case. GD