GeneralDisorder

Just drift them out and the new one's in. No pressing required. The pin-socket for the ring nut is useful though. Often they are frozen with rust and muck - the socket allows you to use an impact on them. GD

On the 5 speed's it's generally just needing new bushings. It's like $30 for all the bushings. Just a bunch of nylon getting old and worn.... GD

Now we are getting somewhere. 1. Get some brake cleaner or carb cleaner. Spray all around the carb - at the base, the throttle shafts, etc. If you hear the engine change pitch (RPM increase) then you have a leak near the location of the spray. Fix any leaks you find. Trace as much of the vacuum line system as you can. 2. Look down the carb throat while revving the engine. Use a flashlight if you need to. Pay special attention to the spray pattern of the primary and secondary jets. You should see a fairly even spray pattern. If it's dribbling, or not spraying evenly this will need to be addressed with a carb tear down. Make sure the accelerator pump isn't leaking and is pumping fuel each time you rotate the throttle. 3. Check the operation of the distributor vacuum advance pot. Hook a section of vacuum line to the pot and suck on it. It should move the advance plate inside the disty and it should HOLD it there if you pinch the line while sucking on it. If it bleeds down faster than 10 seconds or so, the diaphragm is shot. 4. Verify the timing is set to about 8 degree's BTDC. You can use a timing light, but you can also just set it static when the engine isn't running. Verify TDC on #1 using a drinking straw. When the timing marks come up on the flywheel, both valves are closed (you'll feel air escaping with your finger), and the straw says it's at TDC, align the timing mark with 8 degrees BTDC, and then move the distributor till it's pointing directly at the #1 plug wire tower. This will be close enough to 8 degrees if you are careful. I'm usually within a half of a degree if not dead nuts on 8. 5. Check for slop in the timing belts. They get loose as they stretch and allow the timing to jump all over the place. They should be adjusted if you don't remember the last time it was done. Or just replaced if you don't remember the last time that was done either. Make sure the crank sprockets are on in the correct order (the one with the groove in the back goes next to the crank seal). Beyond that how is the idle speed? Overall running of the engine? Does it miss and stumble? Does it accelerate smoothly with apparent power? Are there dead spots in the throttle? If so where? The amount of mileage loss you are describing could only be attributed to a number of problems occuring simultaneously. Start adjusting and ruling out things one by one. At the end of the day you may need to rebuild that carb. I've done plenty of Hitachi's and they are no picknik to rebuild. The biggest source of problems I had when rebuilding them was problematic cheap rebuild parts. Most especially the float needles and seats. Buy the highest quality rebuild parts you can get. Weber's are decent. But they can be a pain to tune at times, and they require seasonal tuning. They have a tendancy to bog out on hard cornering, or severe off-angle running unless the float is set in a posistion that is not desireable for decent mileage. The far better option is SPFI - especially for you as your EA82 is already setup for it. It's basically a bolt-on and crimp some wireing. The cost is generally less than a Weber with all the performance and none of the drawbacks. It does, however, require about 150% more labor to install. A couple weekends anyway if you haven't done it before. Straight Weber swaps can be done in a day, maybe two if you have all the right stuff. Still I prefer the SPFI having run multiple vehicles with both. GD

If you still want one, keep looking. They are out there. I passed up a 94 Auto Sport Sedan last year for $600 that I'm kicking myself over still. For some reason the turbo's you find often are fairly low mileage. I attribute this to their higher fuel consumption (given a choice, people drive something else perhaps ), and that they were THE most expensive Subaru durring those years. I think the buyers were often older, and not as prone to flogging them or driving tons of miles up on them. Of the one's I know: 1. 92 SS - Friends car - bought in '02 with 105k, sold at 120k (for more than he paid). 2. 94 SS - 140k - $600. 3. 94 TW - 110k - wrecked - donated it's engine to my 91 SS. 4. My own 91 SS - 140k - now with 110k engine from above. So.... they are out there. And for the most part they don't tend to have high mileage. Attribute this to what you will, but from what I've seen that's just the way of things. If you want one, head over to legacycentral.org - there's people selling them quite often for reasonable amounts. Often with go-fast parts installed.... GD

What gives you this "feeling"? Do you have evidence of poorly operating injectors? They do not often fail or clog. Especially if the vehicle has been driven regularly. GD

Why does someone always have to make this mistake?!? They are NOT rebadged anything. The swift and the metro are Suzuki designs with either 1.0 or 1.3 liter engines. The Justy is a Fuji design with a 1.2 liter engine. It's got 3 valves per cylinder, and shares no parts with the Suzuki engine. Really, they are only similar in that they are small transverse 3 cylinder's. They never even made a swift or metro with 4WD. NOT THE SAME. GD

These are not OBD-II cars - there is no code reader besides the Subaru select monitor or the B10 scan tool I linked to in my previous post that will read from them. They are self-diagnosing to an extent through he CEL via two sets of plugs under the column. But it's less than useful for a lot of things really. The turbo itself is not actually visible. It's under a heat "chimney" that funnels air from the scoop over the turbo. Same place as on an N/A legacy. It's a panel filter under a big black plastic housing. Again - its nearly the same. Right after the air filter. GD

Ok - so it's carbed. Now we need to know if it's a feedback carb or not. Do you have an Oxygen sensor right in front of the catalytic converter? Should be a single wire dingus screwed into the "crotch" of the y-pipe. GD

Does it have a different feel if the engine is not running? Easier? If so you may need to tighten the clutch cable, or it might be stretching. Check for both and you might want to pick up an extra (dealer only) for about $20 just to have it on hand. Easy to replace. They can and do sometimes snap. Just remember it goes UNDER both the steering column and the heater core hoses. GD

SPFI heads won't have the ports for the ASV's, but you can just delete those. Have him double check the manifold gaskets. Non OEM gaskets are prone to this. OEM only and only 12 ft/lbs on VERY clean surfaces. Non-turbo heads rarely crack. I would be extreemly surprised if that was actually the case. GD

Knock sensors went through a revision, but only change it if you are getting the code for it. Buy a new one they are only about $55. Fuel pumps are not the same for the N/A vs. Turbo. If it needs a pump it's best to just buy a Walbro for it. Agreed - they can get up to 25 or so highway though. In town is usually around 18 or less. All turbo's run crazy rich - more air means more fuel = more power. Especially under boost. GD

Yep - that's the downfall of that engine. It's got nothing to do with the speed, and everything to do with the oil pump. They always fail, and they always need rod bearings. It's the way of the Justy. You should have come here and done some research. That could have been diagnosed and fixed..... before there was a hole in the block . There's no swaps for those - the engine is transverse. Totally the black sheep of the Subaru family. Best bet is to find a replacement engine and do the oil pump and rod bearings BEFORE you blow it up. GD

That's a good, low mileage for a 22T. Excelent deal if the body isn't too rusty. Even then you could rip the engine out and sell it for a grand. They are very sought after being Subaru's only 2.2 fully closed deck block. Legendary so to speak. With some WRX 2.0 or Gen 1/2 2.5 heads, an intercooler and a larger turbo there's quite a number of folks into the 300 HP and low 12 second range. The auto tranny can be swapped and frankly isn't a big deal since the manual's they came with are weak at higher performance levels. They are about as reliable as the N/A 22. Only real problems with them generally stem from poor maintenance. Right before Subaru originally introduced the Legacy in 90 (so late 89) they brought a handful of these turbo's to the US and ran them 24/7 for several weeks stopping only for routine maintenance. The cars racked up something like 65,000 miles without a single failure. The cooling systems need to be maintained. If they go things get ugly in a big way. I just aquired a 91 SS (Sport Sedan) that hasn't seen the road in three years due to a cooling system mishap that took out the engine (melted the block), radiator, and heater core all at once. These engines are rare, parts tend to be expensive, and it was around $5,000 to put it back on the road.... and I've not even started modding it yet. The only thing that's somewhat distressing about the engine itself is they have piston oil squirters in the crank that have a tendancy to fall out - this can lead to a lack of lubrication to other critical engine parts as there will be a pressure loss when the spray nozzle is gone. There's four of them and folks have reported as many as three of them falling into the oil pan. It's also pretty much agreed that they are uneccesary. Much higher performing turbo's including the 22B Impreza (280 HP on the same block) never came with them. The thought is that Subaru was overly cautious about their reputation in the US market at the time and added them due to fears of piston overheating because of the lack of an intercooler on these models. It's a complete engine teardown to plug them though so unless you find them in the pan it's not a huge worry. The turbo's only came as either the Sport Sedan (manual and auto versions), and the Touring Wagon (auto only). 160 HP, 181 Ft/lbs stock. Sounds like a pretty easy fix. It's most likely a sensor or something on the fritz making it not idle. A hookup to the B10 scan tool will tell you much: http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/b10scan/ GD

Carb or SPFI? Check your tire pressure first, and verify your speedo isn't slow. Have someone pace you with another rig and make sure the speedo and trip are reading correctly. GD

Probably a lot of factors at play. First - please describe the complete formula and procedure you use to calculate your mileage. GD

Make sure it has a thermostat. That's a little cool, but those gauges should be checked against a known gauge. GD

2000 amps at what voltage? 110 for lighting/sound? That's only about a 250 Kw generator. While this isn't real small, it's not terribly large either. But you couldn't run it with a Subaru motor. GD

Most gens have a peak, and a continuous rating. For example, a 10 Kw generator may have a peak of 25 Kw for motor starts, etc. It's common on the smaller generators to see stuff like that. On the larger generators they don't rate them quite the same - you generally want to load them up around 80% or higher load to keep the engine's from running too cold (diesel's do not like that), but on larger unit's this is done with compensating load banks that burn off the extra power as heat when the unit is not being loaded sufficiently. This has the added benefit that you can heat a small warehouse with the load bank - which is essentially a big resistance heater coil. Also on larger units, the tendency is headed toward more sophisticated equipment loads. Most of our larger compressors are running VFD (variable frequency drive) motors that don't require huge loads to start and stop. They can idle up slowly, and idle back when not in use. Thus they also have an unlimited start cycle. Power companies are bracketing folks by using "peak load" conditions so that if you start a non-VFD compressor just once each day your rates will skyrocket because of the Amp spike caused by the start - even though you haven't used any more electricity. You jump into the next "service bracket" because of the peak demand, so your Kw/H price increases compared to lower bracketed customers. We rent a LOT of generators - lots of cell tower backup is done with rentals as the locations are often remote and it would be cost-prohibitive for them to buy generators for every tower. Also difficult to secure them at some of the more remote site's. GD

What kind of power output were you looking for? It takes a LOT of power to generate large amounts of electricity. I wouldn't see that tiny little Subaru engine being able to power more than about 150 Kw. Although that's a decent sized generator. Some of the smaller trailer mounted gens I work on use Isuzu 4 cylinder diesel's. But anything over 200 Kw is going to need more power - 6 cylinder or larger. We have a 1,000 Kw at work that's running a 650 HP Mitsubishi Twin Turbo V10 for example.... Also - the tendancy is toward trailer mounted generators now. Truck mounted units are not at all popular. Trailers can have a lower center of gravity, and a larger set tank. And you can run cable quite a long distance with the load bank/cable reel trailers we use. Of course smaller units can be truck mounted, but those are generally the 25 Kw and smaller portable units. GD

That link is for EA82 clocks. EA81 clocks are part of the cluster, and don't suffer from the poor solder-joint problem that the EA82's do. In your case the problem is only the clock memory, which is controlled by a plug under the dash. It was to be plugged in when the vehicle was delivered to the dealership to avoid battery drain in shipping. Just look under the dash and you'll probably see it. It's not the green/blue set under there as those are for the EGR lamp.... I can't recall the wire color's off the top of my head but it should just be a single wire with either a bullet connector, or going into a two wire T plug. Should have constant 12v for the clock memory. GD

Yeah - sounds like an oil cooler sandwitch. The early EJ22 Turbo's used them as well. I don't know how they mount on the H6's, but most just screw on using the center pipe, or a nut on same. There should be o-rings for sealing. GD

Check this out: http://audiport.com/info/cupholder.htm And here's a cheaper version of a similar design: http://www.ultimatecupholders.com/fischercupholder.html GD

LS and LSi never came with 5 speeds, they were always automatics. So you are looking for an L, GT, or any of the other '94 special editions if you want the N/A 2.2 and the 5 speed. There's also the EJ22T Sport Sedan, but those are getting aweful rare. 2.2, AWD 5 speed is the way to go. 96 Outbacks are the most sought after as they have both and the lifted suspension as well. 95 Outbacks had the low suspension. GD

No. And not all 85's will still have it as often the coil-over's have been replaced. You can always change the springs. GD

The dash was swapped - read the VIN from the firewall in the engine bay. Your's is 2WD being a 5 speed. 4WD's were 4 speed only. GD