GeneralDisorder

Like/Dislike has nothing to do with it. The engines are junk-o-rama. Once you have owned a few and aren't wet behind the ears anymore, you too will relegate them to past where they belong. Folks here and elsewhere have been banging their heads against the EA82(T) wall for a long, long time. They are simply not worth the effort. Regarding engines of similar vintage the EA81T and the EJ22T are both much better designs in most respects. Awesome - take em all. Have a blast using up the remaining stock of HG's for them. GD

No. You will have to do something about oil loss as there is no seal back there. Personally I use the two-peice drivelines designed for the EA82. Just weld a couple brackets to the floor for the carrier bearing. It's easy, cheaper, and the two-peice gives better ground clearance. Only if you are using the EA81 flywheel.... which I don't. If you really WANT to use the EA81 flywheel and not get the better, newer design of the EA82 flywheel and clutch with potential for the XT6 clutch then yeah.... What you want is the ROUND spring assembly - doesn't matter how many springs it has as long as it fits into the EA81 flywheel. The semi-sqaure assembly is too large to fit inside the EA81 flywheel cavity. Probably - just the nature of the beast. GD

Don't be too discouraged by all this work - reading through here I also suspect your ignition amplifier is fualty. Those are a pretty rare failure so you'll probably only have to replace it once. GD

It really isn't *that kind* of a transmission. You'll shorten the life of the syncro's trying to shift it like one. Shift it like the 90 HP, 50/50 4WD that it is. There's no reason to short-shift it unless you install an RX tranny or EJ tranny. Give it the time it needs to properly sync up the gear speeds. Running some scotty's cocktail to help it shift easier would be wise, but don't ruin it by trying to shift it like a sports car cause I got news for you..... IT ISN'T GD

91 EJ22 Turbo. Engine is from a 94 as is the sensor. Got the code 22. Immediately upon starting the engine. Inspection of the wireing revealed severe heat damage to the harness portion of the sensor wire. The last 6" or so had three or four places where the wireing had cracked to the point where the (grounded) sheilding wire was touching the inner wireing due to both layers of insulation cracking. The original engine was severely overheated, and as such the sensor wire was exposed to extreme heat from the turbo. I repaired the wire. Folded back the sheilding carefully, and soldered a new section to the inner sensor wire. I show no continuity with ground on the new sensor wire, nor on the sensor iteslf. The code 22 now only shows up after running the engine till it reaches operating temp. This seems to indicate to me that before the repair the ECU was sensing a short to ground in the knock sensor circuit due to the sensor wire being in contact with the sheilding conductor. After the repair something else is happening. Either the knock sensor has malfunctioned, or the lack of a sheilding wire is causing a different problem. The sensor is the pre-TSB sensor as it has a grey connector. It is not cracked and shows no continuity with ground. My next step is to replace the sensor, but I'm also wondering about the sheilding wire. How critical is that last 4" or 5" of sheilding? It would seem most critical where the wire runs near other wires in the harness. This last section the wire is free from the harness and on it's way to the sensor connector. Also there is no sheild after the connector for about 4" till the wire enters the sensor itself. What say ye? Replace the sensor first or repair the sheilding (somehow) and see what happens? This engine apparently ran fine when pulled a few years ago and seems to do so now as well. Could the short to ground have caused any damage to the sensor durring the few test runs that I've put it through since getting it operational? Your opinions on the subject, and most especially on the specific subject of the importance of sheilding wires for these sensors are greatly appreciated. GD

Yes. Should fit ok. Some reworking of the steering column linkage and a lot of transmission tunnel beating will be required. But yes - it could be made to fit. GD

Even assuming the car is free, you'll spend more in time and gas driving one vehicle 2600 miles, and two vehicles another 2600 miles than you would just buying a nice one from the west coast and having it shipped to your door. Although I understand if this is an "adventure" that you don't mind losing money on. I do understand the attraction of a 2600 mile roadtrip. If the car is only secondary to having fun then go for it. Otherwise I wouldn't drive that far for an EA82T - especially not a flapper MAF one. The cooling system is your biggest drawback. I would say replace all the cooling hoses - radiator, heater core, water pump bypass, throttle body, turbo, etc. New OEM thermostat. And just bring a new or known good dual-core radiator with you to swap into it. If it runs, but the cooling system is weak, it will be downhill from there. The fuel system is probably fine. Drain all the old fuel you can and fill with new gas and a can of seafoam in that first tank. Change the fuel filter. Bring a known good fuel pump with you as sometimes setting for long periods can cause them to fail as they are a point of condensation for water. Oil and filter of course. New OEM air filter. Carry a spare distributor and coil as well. Would I do it? No. But for other models/cars perhaps. I've done crazier things. GD

+1. Saving $5 isn't worth the hassle of non-OEM. GD

Well - a GOOD meter will properly read AC if it's present.... However, a CHEAP meter will often not function correctly for this test. I've experienced more than a few inexpensive meters that will show AC current when attached to a DC system. A decent Fluke won't do this, but the $2.99 special at Harbor Frieght likely will. Something to be aware of..... Better to take the alternator in for testing unless you have access to the proper diagnostic gear (a MM that will correctly perform tests for AC on DC systems is a start). GD

I doubt he has blow-by. That's extreemely uncommon for these engines. It's probably bad PCV valve and PCV filter, along with accumultion of carbon and other deposits in the breather lines. It's best to replace the larger lines with 5/8" heater core hose, and blow out/replace all the smaller lines. Replace the pcv filter in the airbox and the pcv valve with OEM parts ONLY. GD

They aren't as rare as all that really. I've seen plenty of 85 to 89 Hatch's and Brat's. They were inexpensive, and as such Subaru actually sold a lot of them. I have a personal preference for the STD model with the two round headlights, the EA71 and the 4 speed single range 4WD tranny. I've wanted one for a while for a t-case build. Alas they are the hardest to find because they were the easiest to justify throwing away. GD

I was merely sugesting that a look at the EA82 cluster may help with ideas for improvement in the EA81 design. As long as you are into it, you may as well make it better if you can. GD

85 2WD GL...... there's a chance it is fuel injected.... what's it got? Anyway, the answer is no. EA81 distributors are driven off the single cam inside the case, and EA82 distributors are driven off the drivers side overhead cam. The drive gears are different as are the driven gears on the distributor shaft. IF your EA82 is carbed, you could change the drive gear from the EA81 distributor (assuming it's the Hitachi and not the ND unit), and modify the mounting ear to make it work. But it's not plug and play, nor is the modification particularly easy unless you have a drill press and proper holding apparatus for drilling through round stock. It would be better to rebush your existing unit. Although the EA82 units generally don't exhibit the same tendancy toward this sort of failure. Before wholesale replacement of expensive components I would be more than a little tempted to actually *test* the shaft for side play. At least the grab and wiggle test if not actualy putting a dial indicator on the thing... GD

You need an '84 FSM. They did not make them from 85 to 89 for the EA81 vehicles. There were supplements made or TSB's issued against the 84 manual. They come up on ebay from time to time, and you can still order them from the dealer. Cost is ~$80 GD

Sure. For the most part it will fit. The wagon driveline probably will fit. But the real problem is going to be the rear end..... that you don't have. I am not sure that an XT uses the same rear end. And I don't know if the XT has the correct fuel tank. You need to get under it and start comparing. XT's are a different beast in a lot of ways. Unlike other EA82's. No - you will need the 4WD clutch and flywheel. GD

Sounds like once the ECU enters closed loop operation it's not getting proper information from the sensors. Coolant temp, and O2 sensors come to mind. Both can fail in ways that will result in the symptoms such as you describe. GD

Speaking only of EA81's, as I haven't messed with the EA82 versions.... There is a warning tone in the dash. I assume it's there to warn of over-voltage. They usually die from some form of alternator malady. In my case it was over-voltage. The dash complained with it's warning tone (a feeble noise really), and promptly gave up. It took maybe 30 seconds. Not enough time for me to figure out what was wrong, and by the time I realized that the dash was even the source of the noise - it was too late. Not to mention the dash has no voltage gauge Since they are electroluminescent I believe they require a large voltage so there's a power supply that steps the voltage up inside the cluster. The voltage range of this type of use is in the 200 to 250 volts range IIRC , so the transformer is like 1:15 or so (a guess). It wouldn't take much of a rise in the alternator output to be quite a large increase in the transformer output. Just a few volts and soon you are 50 to 75 volts overdriving the regulator for the EL panels.... I have the sense that the voltage regulator can't cope with a poor supply voltage from the alternator, and when those climb much past it's ability to regulate it blows. There's probably collateral damage inside them. Sadly the one I blew up I tore apart and cut the connectors from the PCB to make a conversion harness for an analog cluster. Actually worked nicely, but the dash is no more I'm afraid. If I pick up another one I'll let you know. I do sometimes run across them at the yards. A lot more EA82 units than EA81's anymore. But I hear the reliability of the EA82 units is better also. Perhaps a detailed comparison of the workings of the two would show the changes made to the power supplies, and may even give a clue as to how those changes might be further improved upon. GD

Just push down on the 4WD lever. HARD. If it won't come out of 4WD, then drive in a straight line till it will. One notch up is 4WD High, and two is 4WD Low. There is actually an "in-between" setting where neither are engaged. It will put the tranmission effectively in neutral so if you have no power in first gear, then the 4WD selector may be between High and Low. GD

Then you haven't searched enough, or properly. Look harder. This has been covered every week since the inception of this board. There's at least 50 to 100 threads on it, and at least a dozen GOOD threads on it. No busting your balls, but searching will yeild more information than I can post here for you. No - because the possibilities are so varied. There's any number of reasons they will tick. Ultimately it's because they either aren't getting enough oil pressure, or because the oil is "aerated" with bubbles. You really need to do the homework with some searches because if you run them that way for long they won't stop ticking even when you fix the cause. GD

I would say your engine is original. The tag is probably just the distributor (for which bushing failure isn't uncommon), and the reason it was pulled was for the clutch - that's common as well. It's a lot easier than the tranny. The chances of the engine having just the right serial number to be correct for your year is almost non-existant. And JDM engines have the same color for the valve covers.... black was never used on any of them. Likely they were painted due to rust when the (cork) valve cover gasket inevitably started leaking, or when the last valve adjust was done (required every 15,000 on solid lifters). GD

Double Post. Again.... GD

Welcome! And a fine first thread it is too... Never in black. They were certainly painted. According to that number it looks like your engine is original. That would put it at the later part of 1984 production. Well - I think you may have run into the culprit right there. Your car probably was originally equipped with the Carter/Weber single barrel. Most people don't like them, and worse the parts for them are difficult to find. They had an almost unstoppable tendancy for the bolts holding them to the manifold to work loose and fall out. Worse than that those bolts were put in from UNDER the manifold and you basically had to remove the manifold to get the carb off, or to fix those pesky critters.... Anyway I digress - most likely someone repaced it with the Hitachi and it's associated manifold (they are different). So there's really no telling what your's came from although I can tell you that it's probably an 82 or 83 carb from the numbers off it. 84 would have been a DCP-306-25 or something. Might even be earlier than that. BUT the good news is that almost any Hitachi will work. Most have very similar connections and all of them (except the EA82 versions) will bolt right on. Although you would have an easier time, and a lot more fun with the car if you put on a Weber DGV series. You can get a kit with the proper manifold adaptor for the Hitachi manifold for around $350 or so with a brand new carb. They run infinitely better, and with the progressive linkage they have a lot better throttle response, and the larger barrels give more low end grunt. If you want the ultimate mileage machine, then you could swap over to the EA82 throttle body fuel injection. You can see my write up here: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

Do a search for "Tick of Death" or TOD. Will it stop? Yes most certainly...... eventually it will be made into soda cans. GD

Double Post.

Crappy rubber and/or cheap/non-existant hose clamp. If you cut some grooves in the metal peice, and make sure the interface is clean and free of oily substances it should work fine. There just needs to be a lot of friction there. You may have to replace the rubber - they get hard after years of hot turbo intake air. GD