GeneralDisorder

Well it's going to be different for each - EA81, EA82, RX, XT, XT6, etc. As each has a different ride height. The springs/torsion bar, and/or coil over will determine the amount of change needed to make it work. A jack (Hi-Lift works well with my bumpers) is still needed on most rigs to unload the suspension. Although if you clock the torsion bar down on the EA81's a notch you can get them to a place where the axles will come out without even jacking the rig up... it's a balancing act though and it's going to be harder on a wagon or hatch than a Brat as the weight loading the rear suspension makes them sag down more. Basically you just have to play with it - a LOT until you get a feel for what works/doesn't work for your specific application. Too much suspension lift and you'll break axles - not enough and they won't come out without taking the shock mount loose. But in the end, yes it can be done to any of them with the right combination of suspension and lift. GD

That's interesting... are you sure those locking nuts are aluminium? It's difficult to tell from the picture. I have a set of Subaru ones very similar to those on my 94 Legacy (on it when I got the car - probably on there since it was new as it came with alloy's) and I use an impact on them without issue. Perhaps they changed the material. GD

Geometry mostly. With a bit of suspension lift you can pull the axle without unbolting anything. Stock EA81's and EA82's require unbolting the shock mount. It's the lift that lets us do it without taking anything apart. GD

Ok, lets see here.... 1. The engine will fit. But you will have to move the hill holder back, and possibly notch the frame rail on the drivers side to clear the valve cover if you tilt the engine/tranny back to clear the 5 speed (see below). You will have to customize the radiator hoses of course as well. 2. You will need the cross-member from an EA81T in order for the downpipe to clear. Or you can cut a big chunk out of the existing cross-member but I suspect that in doing so you will lose your front sway bar. The EA82 cross-member will not fit as the car is wider. 3. Custom exhaust will have to be fabricated. The stock stuff won't work, and the turbo stuff will be too long for the short-wheelbase hatch. 4. 5 speed will need to be fitted - the 4 will suck, and now is the time to do it while everything is apart. You will need to make a custom cross-member for the tranny, and the floor pan will either need to be cut, beat back, or the whole engine/tranny assembly tilted backwards slightly in order to clear the transmission tunnel. Jerry (bratsrus1) makes a nice kit to fit the 5 speed to the EA81 body. Besides the cross-member some cutting and welding of the linkage is also needed. 5. The wiring is BIG. You need the entire engine control harness and ECU from the donor car. You will have to strip out the components that run the ECU and piggyback it as a sub-harness to the existing vehicle's harness. This involves adding several fuses, at least one fusible link, and wiring in extra relays for the ignition circuits. You'll need to tap into the speed sensor in the cluster, as well as find a location for the CEL. 6. The fuel system will have to be converted to high-pressure. All the soft lines must be replaced with high-pressure rated FI hose, and the fuel pump rewired to be controled from the ECU's fuel pump relay. The tank has no baffles so either a custom tank needs to be made, a surge tank added, or just make sure you don't go below 1/4th of a tank. Anyway - that's about the size of it. FI conversions are never simple. I've done several now. GD

Jerry is a damn good fabricator - he added that himself. GD

Ok, lets clear some things up. As far as EA82's go, you cannot "make" a different ECU by changing the harness. They are coded from the factory as either manual or auto and cannot be changed. That goes for the 3AT, and the 5 speed. The 4EAT would be using MPFI anyway as they only came on turbo's. Those could be, and probably are, different. Second, they will run and idle just fine without the neutral switch. In order to turn off the fuel to the engine, the car must be in gear AND the ECU must see a reading from the speed sensor. You could have issue if you put the engine in neutral while coasting with closed throttle. Under very specific and controlled conditions that might result in the engine dieing. Likely as not though the ECU would already have defaulted to running without the neutral switch before you got a chance to try it. It doesn't take long for the ECU to realize that the switch isn't "reporting" and throw a code. This will prevent fuel cut on closed throttle coasting and keep the engine running as a fail safe. You can keep the Auto ECU. You will have to bypass the inhibitor switch in the shifter mechanism. Last one I did went fine but the car did throw codes due to not seeing something from the transmission I think.... maybe kickdown relay, or some gear indicator or something. GD

They aren't that expensive really. The CTS is under $50 - usually around $35. The IAC's are more, but they rarely fail and there's thousands of used ones to be had for next to nothing. GD

The problem is they suck at virtually everything except snow and sand..... and are extreemly expensive... nor are they DOT approved. But they are very cool. You can order them in any bolt pattern you like so fitting them to a Subaru wouldn't be difficult at all. GD

There is only one manufacturer of EA81 oil pumps as fars as I know. Paraut, which will be stamped "Assian" or what have you. The pumps are all originally made by Paraut though. I guess no aftermarket manufacturer saw the profit in making them. GD

That pretty much looks like all the other $100 EA82's I've owned.... $7,000...... you got taken to the cleaners and you haven't even figured out you lost your pants yet. Does daddy know you are claiming to own his business? GD

Interesting. Well that's good to know for WA folk. Here in OR they are *supposed* to look, but out of the 5 or so times I've been with a Subaru, only once have they actually done it. In OR there's loopholes big enough to drive the Subaru through, so none of my rigs are tested anymore. GD

EJ22 injectors are different and will not fit. If you want larger injectors, then the injectors for the 280Z will fit. GD

Not if the car is upside down. GD

Sure - back of some old dealership covered in dust... yeah they exist. Finding them is the problem. GD

I think it depends on who you take it too. GD

If you have a few hours and some patience the stock Hitachi air box can be cut and modified to fit over the Weber. Just use some bits of metal - cut up a coffee can or what not. It only has to look good from the top, and be serviceable for long enough to have it inspected. As long as it blows clean on the tail-pipe sniff, and looks normal to a cursory inspection they won't ask questions. There's nothing inherently wrong with the Weber - they can pass smog inspections just as well as anything else. They are not DOT approved because the aftermarket versions don't have vent solenoids, and such for the float bowl. None of that affects it's ability to be tuned for a smog test though. GD

Not typically. Is the play on the DOJ, or the actual stub with the DOJ removed? GD

OEM. Try the dealership. GD

IIRC, that's where I got mine as well. I think from their online store though, and not ebay. Looks like they still have them, but it says "call or email". Price shows $27.50. http://www.zdmak.com/wbstore/main.asp?action=PROD&PROD=VO-SU022&CTMP=1 GD

No, the 2WD's used a smaller bearing and the shaft is not removable from the arm. It's quite a bit different actually. GD

Those symptoms are typical of DOJ failure. They bind as they turn and shake the whole car. I've had some that were scary bad. But if, as you say, the axles are new..... it could be something else. GD

If you can catch a fingernail on it, it's too deep. Emery cloth (mechanics cloth) should clean it up. If not you might just have to live with a little seepage. If you really, really want to fix it, then I would reccomend one of the Devcon products.... I would probably go with this stuff: http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=109&catid=15 GD

Sounds like a bad DOJ on one of the front axles. GD

If you knock out the inner grease cup in the bottom of the DOJ you will have access to the E10 torx bolt that holds the stub in the diff. You can then pull that bolt and the whole DOJ+stub will slide out of the diff. Then working on a bench you can pound out the stub from the DOJ cup. If you need to borrow an E10, I have one and I'm in West Linn... GD

If a valve sticks in it's guide the rocker will just fall off. It can make quite a mess. I've seen it once. GD