GeneralDisorder

Well - as good a guy as you are, and as much as you have learned from our adventures into Subaru mechanics so far, I think you just bit off a bit more than you could chew this time around. And the expense involved was insane. With what you spent, and what I've spent so far the cost to put this thing back on the road has got to be over $5,000. The older turbo's just need more lovin, and as many folks have found out the hard way - they aren't a good choice for someone that only has one car, a limited income, and a need for reliable transportation. GD

The very last time I started it before I changed the sensor I got a CEL immediately. Car was completely cold - been sitting for several days. I was a bit thrown by that, so I connected the read mem connectors and it was the code 22. So I don't know what was up with that sensor.... it seemed like the code would only show up after warmup on the previous test runs, but then on that last try I got the code right away. I didn't do anything different, nor did I disconnect the battery. But I didn't disconnect it when I changed the sensor either and the code didn't come back when I restarted it. I think the sensor was just intermittant and the ECU threw the code when it saw the sensor wasn't reporting. Pretty sure it will. I'll try to test it in a bit... GD

I just trim the stock one. Not as much as the above poster though. I leave both bends in it still. I'll try to take a pic. GD

That's not just a Subaru thing. Many vehicles of the 80's did that. Notable entries include most of the Datsun/Nissan lineup of old... At any rate that's a "design feature" as us engineering types like to call it. Hold the handle up as you close the front doors and it will stay locked. GD

Might have popped some of the freeze plugs out of the heads. Start figureing on a head gasket job and inspect carefully as you go. Technically your 88 is not a "Hatchback". It's refered to as a "3 Door Coupe". While it *is* a hatch it needs to be distinguished from the EA81 Hatchback, which was still being produced in 88. The EA81's came first, so the Hatchback label was already taken. For clarity here and elsewhere you should start calling it an EA82 3 Door Coupe. GD

Beware as some of those things *look* identical from the outside, but open/close at different temps. It's probably uneccesary anyway. Trace the lines to where it goes - it's probably part of the EGR or EVAP system. Niether of which is neccesary. If it were me I would likely replumb around it, or if you really care test it first, and assuming it's good repair it with some JB weld. Also beware about replacing vacuum lines as some have "orifices" in the lines. Best thing is to chop the old ones up into 1/4" bits and make sure you didn't miss any as they are little brass guys that are shoved into the end of the hoses. GD

First thing we need to know is if you have an EA81 or EA82? EA81's are pushrod. EA82's have timing belts. Which is it? GD

Always liked the Outback sedans myself. Some day I'm going to find an early, white Outback sedan and put an EJ20H into it. GD

All excelent discussion, and thank you all. My very decent local dealer parts department came through with an in-stock post-TSB sensor (they changed them at some point) for 25% below list (love those guys!). Installed tonight, torqued to 15 ft/lbs, and ran the engine for 45 minutes. Drove it a bit, and let it idle through 5 or 6 cycles of the radiator fans. No CEL. So it was afterall just a coincidence that the sensor had failed as well as the vehicle portion of the harness. I perhaps wasn't as clear in my initial post as I might have been - the sensor was original to the replacement engine - it was not exposed to the heat damage that ruined the original engine and sensor wire on the harness. The plant was swapped wholesale from a 94 turbo wagon which was "running excelent" when the engine was pulled at only 109k miles. The engine was destined originally to be a swap into something that didn't have a turbo but sat for several years till the gentleman decided he no longer wished to complete the task. That's when the engine changed hands to the PO of the new-to-me 91 SS and was installed by said PO. He was unable and eventually became unwilling to get it running so that's when I stepped in and rescued the whole mess from the crusher. I wonder what could have caused the knock sensor to fail durring the couple years that the engine was in storage? GD

I wouldn't go so far as to say "As solid as any other". But I agree they aren't all that bad when compared to other brands. In stock form, and with excelent maintenance, they often do very well in N/A trim. The (relatively few) turbo's that are left out there are survivors. Many having multiple head gasket and/or head replacements to make it this far and this long. Turbo's (all turbo's really) are maintenance hogs. Well - I would point out that Subaru redesigned the heads 3 times before just giving up on the EA82T's after 90. And actually the EA82T was only made for 6 years. EJ22T was made for 4, and EA81T was made for 2. So yes there are a few more out there, but not "WAAAAAY" more. Sure - but you are a competant mechanic. It's not that the EA82T is without it's redeeming qualities, or that it's not reliable if maintained in stock form. It's that it's basically an uneccesary engine in the scheme of things. It's got barely any more power than an N/A plant, can't handle much over stock boost levels for a reasonable amount of monetary assistance, and gets terrible mileage to boot.... so why would I want one? So I can beat my head against the frustrating wall of performance that others have as-yet been unable to break through? No - if I'm going to take the time to mod an engine then I would rather use that time to just drop in an EJ22 N/A. And if I want a stock vehicle with decent HP, I can drive a Legacy with 130 stock. Also no turbo. The point is that there really isn't a place for the EA82T anymore. It's got very little to offer anyone with enough sense to stop and think about their options. If you just want to play with a cheap turbo engine then I guess it's a good learning experience. But for practical purposes they just aren't "fun" when there's so much better, cheaper, and less frustrating engines to be had for the same price. GD

Like/Dislike has nothing to do with it. The engines are junk-o-rama. Once you have owned a few and aren't wet behind the ears anymore, you too will relegate them to past where they belong. Folks here and elsewhere have been banging their heads against the EA82(T) wall for a long, long time. They are simply not worth the effort. Regarding engines of similar vintage the EA81T and the EJ22T are both much better designs in most respects. Awesome - take em all. Have a blast using up the remaining stock of HG's for them. GD

No. You will have to do something about oil loss as there is no seal back there. Personally I use the two-peice drivelines designed for the EA82. Just weld a couple brackets to the floor for the carrier bearing. It's easy, cheaper, and the two-peice gives better ground clearance. Only if you are using the EA81 flywheel.... which I don't. If you really WANT to use the EA81 flywheel and not get the better, newer design of the EA82 flywheel and clutch with potential for the XT6 clutch then yeah.... What you want is the ROUND spring assembly - doesn't matter how many springs it has as long as it fits into the EA81 flywheel. The semi-sqaure assembly is too large to fit inside the EA81 flywheel cavity. Probably - just the nature of the beast. GD

Don't be too discouraged by all this work - reading through here I also suspect your ignition amplifier is fualty. Those are a pretty rare failure so you'll probably only have to replace it once. GD

It really isn't *that kind* of a transmission. You'll shorten the life of the syncro's trying to shift it like one. Shift it like the 90 HP, 50/50 4WD that it is. There's no reason to short-shift it unless you install an RX tranny or EJ tranny. Give it the time it needs to properly sync up the gear speeds. Running some scotty's cocktail to help it shift easier would be wise, but don't ruin it by trying to shift it like a sports car cause I got news for you..... IT ISN'T GD

91 EJ22 Turbo. Engine is from a 94 as is the sensor. Got the code 22. Immediately upon starting the engine. Inspection of the wireing revealed severe heat damage to the harness portion of the sensor wire. The last 6" or so had three or four places where the wireing had cracked to the point where the (grounded) sheilding wire was touching the inner wireing due to both layers of insulation cracking. The original engine was severely overheated, and as such the sensor wire was exposed to extreme heat from the turbo. I repaired the wire. Folded back the sheilding carefully, and soldered a new section to the inner sensor wire. I show no continuity with ground on the new sensor wire, nor on the sensor iteslf. The code 22 now only shows up after running the engine till it reaches operating temp. This seems to indicate to me that before the repair the ECU was sensing a short to ground in the knock sensor circuit due to the sensor wire being in contact with the sheilding conductor. After the repair something else is happening. Either the knock sensor has malfunctioned, or the lack of a sheilding wire is causing a different problem. The sensor is the pre-TSB sensor as it has a grey connector. It is not cracked and shows no continuity with ground. My next step is to replace the sensor, but I'm also wondering about the sheilding wire. How critical is that last 4" or 5" of sheilding? It would seem most critical where the wire runs near other wires in the harness. This last section the wire is free from the harness and on it's way to the sensor connector. Also there is no sheild after the connector for about 4" till the wire enters the sensor itself. What say ye? Replace the sensor first or repair the sheilding (somehow) and see what happens? This engine apparently ran fine when pulled a few years ago and seems to do so now as well. Could the short to ground have caused any damage to the sensor durring the few test runs that I've put it through since getting it operational? Your opinions on the subject, and most especially on the specific subject of the importance of sheilding wires for these sensors are greatly appreciated. GD

Yes. Should fit ok. Some reworking of the steering column linkage and a lot of transmission tunnel beating will be required. But yes - it could be made to fit. GD

Even assuming the car is free, you'll spend more in time and gas driving one vehicle 2600 miles, and two vehicles another 2600 miles than you would just buying a nice one from the west coast and having it shipped to your door. Although I understand if this is an "adventure" that you don't mind losing money on. I do understand the attraction of a 2600 mile roadtrip. If the car is only secondary to having fun then go for it. Otherwise I wouldn't drive that far for an EA82T - especially not a flapper MAF one. The cooling system is your biggest drawback. I would say replace all the cooling hoses - radiator, heater core, water pump bypass, throttle body, turbo, etc. New OEM thermostat. And just bring a new or known good dual-core radiator with you to swap into it. If it runs, but the cooling system is weak, it will be downhill from there. The fuel system is probably fine. Drain all the old fuel you can and fill with new gas and a can of seafoam in that first tank. Change the fuel filter. Bring a known good fuel pump with you as sometimes setting for long periods can cause them to fail as they are a point of condensation for water. Oil and filter of course. New OEM air filter. Carry a spare distributor and coil as well. Would I do it? No. But for other models/cars perhaps. I've done crazier things. GD

+1. Saving $5 isn't worth the hassle of non-OEM. GD

Well - a GOOD meter will properly read AC if it's present.... However, a CHEAP meter will often not function correctly for this test. I've experienced more than a few inexpensive meters that will show AC current when attached to a DC system. A decent Fluke won't do this, but the $2.99 special at Harbor Frieght likely will. Something to be aware of..... Better to take the alternator in for testing unless you have access to the proper diagnostic gear (a MM that will correctly perform tests for AC on DC systems is a start). GD

I doubt he has blow-by. That's extreemely uncommon for these engines. It's probably bad PCV valve and PCV filter, along with accumultion of carbon and other deposits in the breather lines. It's best to replace the larger lines with 5/8" heater core hose, and blow out/replace all the smaller lines. Replace the pcv filter in the airbox and the pcv valve with OEM parts ONLY. GD

They aren't as rare as all that really. I've seen plenty of 85 to 89 Hatch's and Brat's. They were inexpensive, and as such Subaru actually sold a lot of them. I have a personal preference for the STD model with the two round headlights, the EA71 and the 4 speed single range 4WD tranny. I've wanted one for a while for a t-case build. Alas they are the hardest to find because they were the easiest to justify throwing away. GD

I was merely sugesting that a look at the EA82 cluster may help with ideas for improvement in the EA81 design. As long as you are into it, you may as well make it better if you can. GD

85 2WD GL...... there's a chance it is fuel injected.... what's it got? Anyway, the answer is no. EA81 distributors are driven off the single cam inside the case, and EA82 distributors are driven off the drivers side overhead cam. The drive gears are different as are the driven gears on the distributor shaft. IF your EA82 is carbed, you could change the drive gear from the EA81 distributor (assuming it's the Hitachi and not the ND unit), and modify the mounting ear to make it work. But it's not plug and play, nor is the modification particularly easy unless you have a drill press and proper holding apparatus for drilling through round stock. It would be better to rebush your existing unit. Although the EA82 units generally don't exhibit the same tendancy toward this sort of failure. Before wholesale replacement of expensive components I would be more than a little tempted to actually *test* the shaft for side play. At least the grab and wiggle test if not actualy putting a dial indicator on the thing... GD

You need an '84 FSM. They did not make them from 85 to 89 for the EA81 vehicles. There were supplements made or TSB's issued against the 84 manual. They come up on ebay from time to time, and you can still order them from the dealer. Cost is ~$80 GD

Sure. For the most part it will fit. The wagon driveline probably will fit. But the real problem is going to be the rear end..... that you don't have. I am not sure that an XT uses the same rear end. And I don't know if the XT has the correct fuel tank. You need to get under it and start comparing. XT's are a different beast in a lot of ways. Unlike other EA82's. No - you will need the 4WD clutch and flywheel. GD