GeneralDisorder

You can yell all ya like, but it's not going to change the facts. If you paid $2500 4 years ago, then you paid too much 4 years ago. Whatever you're worth, it's too much. Give that money to someone that can invest it wisely and go back to sucking on fudgesicles kid. Multi-million eh? And if this capitol is so liquid then why are you driving 4 year old Subaru's? And if it's internet based and you have so much CE knowledge then how is it that you haven't found the caps-lock yet? GD

You don't need to remove those if you push down on the arm. You may have to have someone push it down with their foot. The movement is there you just have to do a little persuasion. As stated those three bolts change your alignment so I wouldn't touch them. I would drop the diff down before I touched those. But that's a personal choice I guess. GD

Replace the adjuster. That happens a lot actually. I've snapped a few completely off. If you can't get hte drum off beat it till the pads delaminate from their backing. It will come off, you just have to use brute force. Or if you have a really really big 3 jaw puller you might get it off that way too. Probably just push the axle through though. Vice grips or a pipe wrench. You may have to replace that bit of hard line that runs down the control arm. Sounds to me like you should be putting discs on it, or a complete, non crusty drum set at least. Those old manual adjustment drum setups are primitive and usually really crusty and difficult to work on. You may have to put some heat to parts of it if you wish to make them move again. GD

You may have to push down on the control arm to get the room you need. The bushings keep them from moving much on their own. But that's the method. Pull the pins, remove the shock mount (upper or lower) and pull the axle off. You may have an axle with an outer CV cup instead of a DOJ. That just means you may have to push down harder on the control arm to get the room you need. GD

Scratch one from this earth. I recently traded it to a friends daughter who had it for a week and was rear ended. Her score is now one 2004 Focus, and one 1985 GL D/R Sedan.... Original CA car (feedback carb), No rust, Weber swapped, working AC, etc, etc Now it's dead . Oh well, I scavenged the D/R and the engine+Weber of course. So yes, they most definately existed. GD

Subaru has not used ballast resistors since the days of points and condensor style distributors, which were last used in 1980 IIRC. The ballast resistors were used to cut down wear on the points and the condensor inside the distributor. Your's is fully electronic, and uses a hall-effect sensor and a transistorized ignitor to fire the coil and thus has no need of a ballast resistor. At any rate you should stick with the stock Hitachi coil (or ND if you have that distributor). The stock units are much more rugged than aftermarket, and are designed to be installed horizontally as well as to properly function with the stock ignitor. GD

Virtually worthless as cars go. It's worth what someone will give you for it. And there's no one here that's looking to spend that kind of money on a GL. If I had $7,000 to blow I still wouldn't want it. Especially not a wagon body. Maybe an STi swapped RX body with almost no miles on it..... probably not even then. For $7,000 you could get into a lot of vehicles that are insanely nicer than a 90 HP station wagon. A nice late 90's Audi for example - complete with the Bose 8 speaker system, leather (heated), AWD, etc, etc. If you polish that turd too much it will melt. You'll be sorry you blew all that coin on that thing in a few years kid.... GD

EA81's are single peice. They are ~5" shorter, and run at a steeper angle. Should be perfectly fine. GD

I suspected something like that, but I never tried it out myself so I wasn't sure. What I do know speaks to the validity of that claim though as I had to elongate the shifter hole rearward in order to fit a stock 4 speed shifter into my formerly 2WD 5 speed wagon. GD

Fusible links are in a black box fed directly off the battery. They are in the engine bay - just follow the smaller positive line from the battery terminal and you will find them. They are just "wires" of specific and very precise qualities that will burn through at a specific amperage. The wire in them is covered by a cloth material that is colored - green, black, red, etc. depending on their rating. They are flexible and have female blade terminals on each end. About 3" long overall. A fuse would work as well if it's the same rating as the link. They are fairly high ratings though. GD

No. GD

Won't fit without modifications. The transmission tunnel sheet metal is physically different and larger. Of all the tunnels the 2WD 5 speed was the smallest. My lifted wagon had that console originally. I swapped it for the 4WD stuff. GD

88 and 89 are the years you want to swap from. Older transmissions do not have the neutral switch for the fuel injection. Loyales (90 to 94) never came with D/R. It was specifically a GL feature. It's an easy swap. Applicable threads are any having to do with EA82's. They are all basically the same from 85 to 94. This has been covered many, many times. GD

Nope. The EA82's locks are part of the door handle while the EA81 locks are seperate. GD

He is likely correct on that. I checked my EA81 heads, and despite my thinking that they also said E71 on them the casting indeed reads E81. I beleive you are safe in assuming those are EA71 heads. An intresting find as those engines aren't particularly common anymore. Only used in the STD hatch after 81 if I recall correctly. GD

As I said they look so similar as to be nearly indistinguishable unless you look closely at the diameter of the inside seal surface, and the compressed length of the whole axle. But you have to compress both of them to check the length. They will bolt up but are real hard to make fit properly when it comes to connecting the control arm. EA81's and EA82's share the exact same knuckle design, and the same transmission spline count - even the front wheel bearings are the same part number. The length is the only real difference. GD

It's bad on the distributor ignitors to use these "performance" coils. Stick with OEM as there is nothing to be had in the way of performance here. Only a potential for failure with a cheap mexican coil and an expensive, hard to find distributor ignitor. GD

EA81 carb pistons are 8.7 GD

Make sure the y-pipe to mid-pipe lead donut is in place and the proper spring loaded bolts are being used for that interface - it's designed to allow movement, but the sping & bolt setup often gets replaced when people can't get an old donut to seal, or they are cut off because of rust. Make sure that the rear y-pipe hanger is present and firmly attached to the transmision. You can use a peice of rubber between the pipe bracket and the mounting bracket to allow some flex. Use only OEM gaskets for the exhaust port flanges. Use the specified torque values using new stainless steel nuts, lock washers, and flat washers, and NEVER let the exhaust hang from the studs as it stresses the threads in the head. If you need to you can tap the holes in the heads over to 7/16x20 and use studs of that size. If you clean it all up and attach it correctly it should never come loose or leak. GD

Yes. I've done many. See this thread - same bearing part number, same procedure to replace. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82958 You can also replace the whole control arm from any 4WD EA81. They are all the same. GD

Sounds like you may have got some EA82 parts mixed up in there. The axles look very similar and will bolt in, but the EA82 axle is longer, and has a different diameter on the sealing surface for the inside of the knuckle. That's my best guess anyway. And it's happened to people before. I still get confused when I pull out a mystery axle from the depths of the garage. Have to compare it to one I know the origin of. GD

Very cool. You guys are legendary around here. Lots of old school Subaru folks have used your products in the years I've been here. Been meaning to get one for an EA81 myself. I'll have a look at my heads in a few also. What Subaru's do you own? Any promotional vehicles? GD

I think those are going to be EA81 heads. But I will have to look at a set in my garage to be sure. If you could post a pic we could tell you instantly.... Incidentally - do you work for Delta Cam? Just curious.... GD

Can't lose for free. And Calebz is probably right. It's just overkill is all. But if it's just *somthing* for exhaust you are after and not performance, then yeah - I say at least mock it up and see if it will go on. GD

Well - There's an aftermarket STi exhaust on the 91 Sport Sedan in my driveway. It's a full catless turbo-back though and the 91 is a turbo car as well.... But if the midpipe bolts up to the y-pipe on your legacy then I don't see why you couldn't get it to work. The STi exhaust on the SS runs right down the exhaust tunnel. The muffler is at the wrong angle and the lasy pipe section needs to be replaced with a straight pipe on mine, but it's not horrifically drastic. You realize that the STi exhaust is WAY too big for a non-turbo EJ22 though right? You need *some* restriction for scavenging. Personally I wouldn't bother as it's probably going to net you zilch in the performance department, and is going to need modification. GD