GeneralDisorder

The CTS tells the computer what temp the engine is at - if the computer thinks the engine is warmer than it really is, it will not engage the cold-start enrichment and will not provide enough fuel for cold starting. More fuel is required as the cold cylinder walls will cause condensation of the atomized fuel and will reduce the mixture to an unburnable state unless a richer mixture is used to compensate for this effect. GD

Coolant temp sensor, or the Idle Air Control valve. GD

Autozone can pull the codes. And no there is no other way to get them except with the scan tool. GD

Yes - it was on my 84 wagon anyway. Don't see why it would be any different. Add exhaust mid-pipe, and front sway bar to your list. GD

That's weird because I've never had one that didn't "function". All of them but the one on my off-roader (dangerous on that one) I have properly adjusted and they have worked fine. Even the one on my 94 Legacy works good. Never had one leak either, but I've heard of it happening. Probably old, nasty fluid. GD

My 94 has the same problem - and the speedo responds with a bit of a delay sometimes after driving for a long time (over an hour). I think it's the speedo head itself, but I've also heard something about a drive coupler at the transmission end of the cable. Haven't bothered to sort it out yet.... I'm also running stock 94 GT rims and tires - 14" alloys and 185/70/14's - only about 10k on them. GD

Stub axles pull out of the Auto's, but I don't think they do on the manuals. GD

That's entirely normal behaviour - all Suabru fuel injection since the early 80's has done that. Thus the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) which is used by the cruise control unit as well as the fuel injection computer. The engine revs slightly when the vehicle is in motion to reduce clutch wear durring shifting and to make clutch engagement smoother. It's a drivability thing that they have found works better with inexperienced drivers. It still sounds like you have an issue - maybe throttle postion sensor/actuator related, but this isn't part of it. Don't attribute this to a "problem" with the ECU as it's designed to do that and is functioning as it should. Your problem sounds mechanical rather than electronic - especially with that return spring code. GD

EA81T cups won't work - wrong shaft diameter, etc. I beilive you are going to want FWD Impreza axles for their inner joint cups. That should yeild the right DOJ to mate a FWD EA81 axle shaft to the 25 spline transmission. I don't think a solution has yet been found for the 4WD EA81 axles.... but with AWD there shouldn't be any trouble running the smaller FWD shafts anyway as long as you get then with new outer joints. Maybe contact this MWE fellow - he might know of a joint to make the 4WD shafts work. I seem to recall something about the EJ22T DOJ's fitting the EA81 4WD shafts.... The Legacy stubs might pull out, but there's no replacement in 23 spline that would go back in. The EA stubs are bolted from the inside and can't be removed without splitting the trans. GD

I've replaced many clutches that have completely failed - usually there's nothing needed beyond a normal clutch replacement other than a lot of cleaning as the disc will have completely disitigrated on one side. Occasionally the side that got destroyed was the flywheel side (usually not though) and this can cause damage to the flywheel disc surface from the exposed disc rivets. Sometimes it's possible to resurface them and sometimes not. If you can't hear metal-on-metal then it's problably fine. GD

Yes - my parts manual indicates that the EA81 and EA82 2WD clutch kits are the same part number..... but that's not exactly a good thing because if no one has the part for an EA82 then they won't have it for the EA81 either because it's the same exact part. You may want to have a board member ship you one from up here - or a 4WD EA82 flywheel - whichever you like. Shouldn't cost much up here - flywheels are around $10 at the junk yards.... I might have one laying around but it would need cleaned up and surfaced. GD

I suppose I should update the list as I can't edit the older list post: Ok - so to summarize (I'll update as people post): Engine serials / build dates: - EA81 799337 - 07/81 931272 - 01/82 009899 - 04/82 039802 - 11/82 300305 - 05/83 460419 - 01/84 588506 - 07/84 665918 - 11/84 809067 - 05/85 015963 - 01/86 - EA82 000808 - 12/85 107177 - 07/92 Anyone have any more? GD

If you get a "big" (225mm) EA82 flywheel, the EA81 4WD clutch will bolt up just fine and you will have what you desire - a 225mm clutch for your 2WD Loyale. No - the EA82 "big" clutch will NOT work. The spline count for the disc is wrong, and the throwout bearing is a larger diameter and won't work either. Without changing the flywheel, it's not possible to have a "big" clutch as the small flywheel is different. So you just need to get the larger flywheel, and buy a "big" EA81 clutch and you will be OK. I have done this with a 2WD EA81 - it works just fine. And the EA81/EA82 2WD 5 speeds are the same transmission - both are derived from the EA81 4WD transmission, and as such share the same clutch parts. That's why you can use the EA81 4WD clutch with your 2WD transmission..... just substitute the EA82 4WD flywheel on the engine side and everything bolts together like it was meant to be that way! GD

The problem you are going to encounter is the throwout bearing - the 2WD's use the old EA81 style throwout, and you will have to use: EA81 4WD 225mm Pressure plate (1983+) EA81 4WD 225mm Disc (1983+) EA81 Thowout bearing & holder EA81 Pilot bearing EA82 4WD Flywheel GD

You may need to replace the ignitor on the coil bracket (actually, it's part of the bracket). These do sometimes fail. Also - you are using an OEM coil right? Nothing else is as reliable, and some of the Subaru ignition parts are sensitive to coil's that are outside their normal resistance range (IE: "High Performance" coils). Before you go and change that though, make SURE the coil bracket - the part that clamps the coil to the engine bay - has GOOD, SOLID ground. Clean the bolts that hold it to the body. If the coil bracket is not grounded the coil will never fire. Also make sure there is power to the ignitor, and if you like you can go here for more information on the SPFI system than you probably will ever want to know - pay no attention that it's not for your engine - I wrote it as a guide to swapping the SPFI to the older EA81, but the relavance is clear as it details the operation of the entire system and there's schematics for all the wiring: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

NGK Plugs, OEM Wires, OEM Coil, OEM Cap, OEM Rotor. Nothing else is going to work as well, or as reliably. Accel coils are known to have a pretty high failure rate anymore - made in Mexico. Don't know what this "E3" plug is, but replace them with NGK's - gapped to .040" Get OEM wires, and an OEM coil if you can. Cap and rotor too. GD

Not in the US. The EJ18 was a brighton thing - mostly Impreza's..... maybe a few legacies although I've never seen one - would be a pretty underpowered legacy I would think - especially at higher altitudes. GD

That's the one for the feedback controlled carb - that ASV is vacuum operated. Besides - you don't need them anyway. GD

Exactly. GD

Up/Down has no relevance - it's a nut, and those are tightened or loosened. For this application you loosen the nuts to drive the spring perch upward and increase the suspension height (counter-clockwise looking down from above the car). That goes for stock strut casings..... that crazy aftermarket one in the above pictures I have no idea about as I've never encountered one myself. This however leads to poor camber, and the tires will wear severely on the outer edges if left this way for on-road travel. It's only supposed to be done off-road for the extra height (about 1"). GD

You are going to need to clarify that a bit. For one thing this is the phase 1 DOHC 2.5L yes? So there should be 2 cams on each side, not one. Which one is "spinning" and what part of it exactly?? Is the belt still on? What exactly is happening? If the belt is unbroken, that doesn't mean much. The belt CAN skip teeth without breaking, and without shedding any teeth. I have the old belt from my EJ22 that is still perfect but skipped several teeth on the drivers side cam due to a seized water pump - the backside of the belt (smooth side) runs the water pump and the when it seized it caused enough friction to jerk the belt hard - pulling back the hydraulic tensioner and allowing enough slack for the belt to jump several teeth. GD

The auto will work fine with a Weber - as Mostaru said the vacuum for the modulator (which is on the side of the tranny) comes from the intake manifold, not from the carb. GD

That's the RX transmission. FT4WD, Diff Lock, and D/R. Low is only 1.2:1 though instead of the 1.59:1 of the 4WD D/R as the RX transmission was designed for rally. Basically it's a 10 speed FT4WD box - it's not suited to crawling as the diff ratio is also only 3.7. GD

Yeah - the anti-dieseling solenoid requires power to allow the idle circuit to get fuel. If it's left unpowered the car will run but will die when the choke pulls off and the carb needs the idle circuit again. GD

Wishfull thinking, and sad to say that you won't. Many, many people come here (mostly young like yourself) with grand ideas of reinventing the wheel. Let me tell you that I have yet to see Wheel 2.0, and I've been here since a lot of the big dawgs were playing with EA81's - people that have 30 to 40 years on you and thousands of $$ to play with. It hasn't happened yet and when it does it's not going to be some armchair type such as yourself that does it. It's the guys that never ask questions that do this sort of thing - they just DO it and then show up with pictures. GD