GeneralDisorder

Yep - typical of bad DOJ's. Driveshaft u-joints can do it too though. But if you have an inner joint with a torn boot it's probably that one. I've seen them go without torn boots as well. Since it's comming from the back drop the rear portion of the driveline as sugested above. If it still does it then it's rear axle related, and if not then it could be driveshaft or center carrier related. GD

See if you can locate where the "sound" of the leak is loudest. Other members have found leaks at the vacuum actuators or in rotten lines near them. It could be at the switches as it happens in more than just one posistion, but each button switches vacuum to multiple actuators so it may be that it does leak in multiple positions simply because those positions all supply vacuum to the leak.... yeah Anyway, yes a vacuum leak can severely affect low-rpm and idle quality. If you don't have one, you might invest in a cheap vacuum guage and read a bit on how to decipher the readings from it. It can tell you a lot about the tune of your engine and would reveal if you likely have any vacuum leaks or not. Also spraying around with a bit of carb cleaner will locate vacuum leaks - when the cleaner is sucked into the leak it will increase the mixture and cause the engine to speed up momentarily. GD

EA82T is the *same* clutch as a 4WD EA82 N/A, but the clamping force of the pressure plate is higher. A regular 4WD clutch will fit, but won't grab like the turbo clutch will. GD

This is not germain to the conversation in the slightest. Wasting the boards time with information on Rochester carbs from the 70's isn't helping anyone here, nor the original poster. Great - use the Hitachi. More Weber's and SPFI for me. No, but reputation does. You aren't starting off well I might add. If you have more important things to do then why are you trolling here? GD

A LOT. They will convert your heads to dual-port for $1094. I'm not sure if that's for one or both, but either way it's not cheap. GD

Definately a later 80's EA82 rim. Looks too much like it came off a UFO for me, but hey - any alloy is better than steels right? GD

No - it's purely a matter of how much oil is being burned. That's largely a factor of the age and condition of the engine. Has nothing to do with OBD or any other emissions control system. Burned oil doesn't show up as hydrocarbons so while it may eventually clog the cat, it doesn't cause the car to fail inspections. That's why they always look for "visible" exhaust as well as test results, or an ECU probe. GD

Visit the wheels page to compare: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/wheels2/wheels.html GD

You can use the same ECU. What you will run into with the 85 tranny is that it has no Neutral Switch as there were no D/R's with fuel injection until late 87 (except RX's and such, but the low is only 1.2 on those). This will not be a huge issue, but you will want to "fake out" the ECU if you use a manual ECU, or if you use the auto ECU you will have the kickdown solenoid and the inhibitor switch to deal with. Either way unless you get creative the ECU will eventually illuminate the CEL when it doesn't see one of it's circuits. On my Brat I used one of those early D/R's. I made up a bracket and cut a notch into the side of the main shift rod in order to mount a neutral switch from a later tranny in such a way that it would operate as normal. So far it's worked well, but it required some careful fitting and a little bit of cutting and welding to build it. Not hard, but not something for a beginner to fabricate. Everything else should bolt up fine. You'll need the entire rear end and all associated parts. The gas tank should already have the hump for the diff, but look at it because some did and some didn't on the EA82's. Front sway bar is different - and the front struts and rear coil-overs are different as well. To swap from the auto you'll need the pedal assembly, and you'll have to hotwire the plug that goes to the auto shifter to allow the crank circuit to operate. On the clutch pedal there is a clutch switch that will have to be wired to the ECU unless you decide to keep your auto ECU. It's time consuming, but it can be done as a near bolt-in. Firgure several weeks of downtime unless you have every single day to work on it. GD

They don't fit real tight. Just tap them in lightly till flush with a soft blow hammer. There's no need for any special tools for these tiny seals. I've replaced dozens and never have I used any special tool for it. I could find a socket if I were really concerned about it, but there is just no need for it. GD

Well - besides cutting down on the "smelliness" of your vehicle, using the PCV keeps out water while fording if you are into off-road. That's my main purpose in using them. Also, on a daily driver there's another concern - that of acidic gases forming inside the crankcase (blowby). Engine vacuum helps to pull them out of the crankcase using the PCV valve as a one-way check. Before PCV valves there was the "road draft" system that used passing air over a tube extended below the vehicle to pull the gasses out. This of course didn't fly with the bunny-huggers so the PCV system was created to burn the gases rather than just vent them. On a race engine, or other limited use application where the oil is changed often this isn't an issue. Thus you see the fancy chrome valve cover breather filters. Personally all my rigs run PCV - both because I don't want to have to change the oil often enough to prevent acid build up, and because I like to steam clean my engines - even the ones that don't go fording. So the benefits far outweight the 5 HP I would get from bling valve cover filters. GD

It really doesn't take much coolant being burned to create some steam. It will initially look like exhaust on a cold morning. But it's hot so it doesn't make a big cloud - it disipates only a few feet from the pipe. You could just do the HG's on general principle. 300k km isn't much at all really. Plus the HG's on these are really easy. Just an afternoon job really unless you decide to mill the heads. Bad intake manifold gaskets will show the same burning coolant symptoms though - and improper installation or poor quality gaskets will just keep failing over and over. I say pull the manifold and look at the gaskets. If they are good just keep right on going till you get the heads off. GD

Three reasons: 1. It was basically free, low mileage (140k), and runs great. 2. It's temporary while I build a higher performing EA81 using the original engine from the Brat. 3. It was the natural choice after I converted the Brat to SPFI as it mated to the 5 speed with all parts I had on hand (free again). Clutch, etc. Don't get me wrong - of all the engines Subaru made I like the EA82 the least. But I tend to get them for next to nothing out here and a lot of them really run fantastic. Plus of course I resealed it, did the t-belts, and run it coverless so it's not such a pain to work on. Also I don't drive the Brat.... like ever. It's *one* of my backup rigs but I never use it unless I need to haul something. Don't like putting mileage on it, and don't like putting it in harms way with the drivers around here. Plus with the 5 speed and the 16 more HP than stock it's actually faster than stink (it's light) and begs to me to drive it like I stole it. Attracts pigs like stinky garbage too. I've been ticketed in the thing half a dozen times at least. No thanks :cool: GD

If it started to back out, then it's all the way down already. As for the front, raising the spring perches with the nuts will give about 1" additional lift. If they are all the way down already (no visible threads under the nuts) then they are already on their lowest setting. GD

No - your O2 is strictly for mixture control. It reads before the cat. Being you are in CA you might have issue with the test station, but the car will run no different. GD

No - you have an EA81. Hatchbacks and Brats were made till 89 and 87 respectively. You suspension is fully adjustable. I was simply answering the question posted about EA82's. Your EA81, as stated, is adjustable. However, since I'm posting anyway, I'll state that suspention isn't your problem. Your exhaust is cooking the boot on the passenger side. That's a known problem. I sugest you check your fuel mixture as your cat is probably overheating. Also the heat shield is in place right? You can always gut your cat to keep the heat down. It's also possible that the quality of the MWE boots isn't all that good. But I have no direct experience with that. I know the GCK boots are extremely thick. GD

It's not the rust, it's the carbon. I've had the sensors come out (with a BATTLE) and leave all their threads in the coverter. Basically it was such a battle because I wasn't so much unscrewing the sensor as ripping it's threads off. But I've been able to chase them out and get a new sensor to thread in alright. GD

Trying to send you a PM, but your box is full. GD

You'll probably find one eventually if you stick with Subaru's. I've had almost every model come across my path at one time or another. Just got an 83 Hatch for my new off-road project. Just showed up in my driveway one day . They follow me home. I have 5 right now and another on the way after thanksgiving :-p GD

Check your tie rod ends and ball joints for play. The clunking when going over bumps indicates possibly your ball joints are going out. GD

Yeah - if you douse it in PB blaster or Yield or something for a few days that might help. I never seem to know in advance when I'm going to be doing stuff like this so I just strong-arm my way around it. If you can get a box-wrench on it by cutting the old wire try that first. I always seem to have to use an impact on them, and then chasing the threads is needed so you need better access to run the thread chasing tap in. GD

Drop the y-pipe. You'll need to in order to get at it, and to chase the threads properly. These are hard enough as it is - near impossible if you don't take the y-pipe off the car to work on it. These are almost always real tough to get out. A special socket is nice, but I've done many without one. I usually just cut the O2 off with a die grinder to fit a normal socket on it (then use an impact). Warm up the engine to operating temp and pull the exhaust off while it's still warm. This helps in getting them out. Chase the threads with a spark plug thread chaser and use anti-seize on the new sensor. GD

Does knowing that it's got SPFI, an EA82 from a 93, a 5 speed D/R, and rear discs make you want it more? But no, it goes when I go. And maybe I'll be burried with it. Hard to say GD

I'll accept your penance....this time. You mere mortals make me laugh sometimes . Anyway. So there's two systems - one for feedback (CA, and 49 states 2WD), and one for non. On feedback equipped models there is a relay - controlled by the ECU. It is next to the ignition relay somewhere on the passenger side floor - probably under the passenger seat.... under the carpet. Perhaps under the rear seat bottom - it's difficult to tell from the FSM's illustration. But it's definately on an off-shoot of the rear harness that runs along the passenger side jam. The non-feedback (49 states 4WD, 4WD-AT, and Canada) doesn't have a relay. The choke is controlled by the FPCU (fuel pump control unit) that is located just above the hood release handle bracket under the drivers side kick panel. It's a black box with a 6 pin connector. That should all hold true for an 81. I would have to go to my garage for an '80 manual to be entirely sure, but likely it's the same. At any rate there should only be a relay if it has an ECU. GD

I agree that the flywheel modification can easily be done at home with basic tools. However, making the actual adaptor plate is a bit more sticky IMO because of the need to very accurately center the input shaft to the pilot bearing. Otherwise you risk causing damage to the pilot bearing, or the input shaft bearing. So far, the only adaptor plates I *know* of that properly take this into account are the ones made by rguyver as his are made by CNC with this alignment specifically addressed. Others might be accurate as well, but I don't have any knowledge on those. GD