GeneralDisorder

94 Legacy GT Wagon - 2.2 - 5 speed manual. 140,500, original HG's, runs perfect. GD

When you guys need parts, post here to the board - we out here on the west coast are still hip deep in EA81's - I can get half a dozen distributors any day of the week for about $25 each at my local yards. Generally that's a trip to just ONE yard. I would estimate that at any one time there's probably in excess of several dozen availible locally to me at around $20 to $50 range, in various yards. You just have to ask. GD

Before you go buying CTS's, check the connector to it for corrosion. And check the resistance range of the sensor. If you still need one, find a used one at the junk yard. If you can't find one there, they are about $40 at rockauto.com. GD

Yep - the Subaru's like the NGK's - simple, effective, and CHEAP - about $1 each. I've never had a problem with them. GD

No tranny drop - mostly working from below but pulling the boot can help for some of them. GD

They don't always fail the same. The EA82's have a LOT of assorted cooling system deficiencies. Your past experiences are only of *some* help - remember this is a different car. GD

The Legacy was their flagship model - the Loyale was the budget model. All the things you asked for WERE availible on the Outbacks starting in 96 (except the D/R - at least not in the states). The objective with the Loyale was to NOT reduce sales of the Legacy's - so why would they do any of that? If you want all that stuff then get a late 80's wagon. GD

Sounds like you are leaking or burning coolant. #1 is to fill it up and figure out which one. If you are burning it then you might have either an intake manifold gasket leak (common) or possibly a small HG leak. If it's leaking fix the leak - check the common stuff - intake manifold gaskets, and the smaller coolant hoses running to the TB, etc. Your shifter bushings come from the dealer only. You'll want to replace all of them as it's only around $25 or so for the collection. GD

You don't remove the reluctor - you remove the drive gear and slide out the whole shaft. GD

Your clock problem is unrelated most likely. The EA82 clock's all have this problem - remove it and remelt the solder on the circuit board and it will work fine again. And poor grounds don't cause blow fuses - they cause things to NOT draw current, rather than to draw too much current. Plug in a lamp to the fuse socket and start going through the items on that fuse - when you find the short the light will dim or go out. GD

The CTS tells the computer what temp the engine is at - if the computer thinks the engine is warmer than it really is, it will not engage the cold-start enrichment and will not provide enough fuel for cold starting. More fuel is required as the cold cylinder walls will cause condensation of the atomized fuel and will reduce the mixture to an unburnable state unless a richer mixture is used to compensate for this effect. GD

Coolant temp sensor, or the Idle Air Control valve. GD

Autozone can pull the codes. And no there is no other way to get them except with the scan tool. GD

Yes - it was on my 84 wagon anyway. Don't see why it would be any different. Add exhaust mid-pipe, and front sway bar to your list. GD

That's weird because I've never had one that didn't "function". All of them but the one on my off-roader (dangerous on that one) I have properly adjusted and they have worked fine. Even the one on my 94 Legacy works good. Never had one leak either, but I've heard of it happening. Probably old, nasty fluid. GD

My 94 has the same problem - and the speedo responds with a bit of a delay sometimes after driving for a long time (over an hour). I think it's the speedo head itself, but I've also heard something about a drive coupler at the transmission end of the cable. Haven't bothered to sort it out yet.... I'm also running stock 94 GT rims and tires - 14" alloys and 185/70/14's - only about 10k on them. GD

Stub axles pull out of the Auto's, but I don't think they do on the manuals. GD

That's entirely normal behaviour - all Suabru fuel injection since the early 80's has done that. Thus the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) which is used by the cruise control unit as well as the fuel injection computer. The engine revs slightly when the vehicle is in motion to reduce clutch wear durring shifting and to make clutch engagement smoother. It's a drivability thing that they have found works better with inexperienced drivers. It still sounds like you have an issue - maybe throttle postion sensor/actuator related, but this isn't part of it. Don't attribute this to a "problem" with the ECU as it's designed to do that and is functioning as it should. Your problem sounds mechanical rather than electronic - especially with that return spring code. GD

EA81T cups won't work - wrong shaft diameter, etc. I beilive you are going to want FWD Impreza axles for their inner joint cups. That should yeild the right DOJ to mate a FWD EA81 axle shaft to the 25 spline transmission. I don't think a solution has yet been found for the 4WD EA81 axles.... but with AWD there shouldn't be any trouble running the smaller FWD shafts anyway as long as you get then with new outer joints. Maybe contact this MWE fellow - he might know of a joint to make the 4WD shafts work. I seem to recall something about the EJ22T DOJ's fitting the EA81 4WD shafts.... The Legacy stubs might pull out, but there's no replacement in 23 spline that would go back in. The EA stubs are bolted from the inside and can't be removed without splitting the trans. GD

I've replaced many clutches that have completely failed - usually there's nothing needed beyond a normal clutch replacement other than a lot of cleaning as the disc will have completely disitigrated on one side. Occasionally the side that got destroyed was the flywheel side (usually not though) and this can cause damage to the flywheel disc surface from the exposed disc rivets. Sometimes it's possible to resurface them and sometimes not. If you can't hear metal-on-metal then it's problably fine. GD

Yes - my parts manual indicates that the EA81 and EA82 2WD clutch kits are the same part number..... but that's not exactly a good thing because if no one has the part for an EA82 then they won't have it for the EA81 either because it's the same exact part. You may want to have a board member ship you one from up here - or a 4WD EA82 flywheel - whichever you like. Shouldn't cost much up here - flywheels are around $10 at the junk yards.... I might have one laying around but it would need cleaned up and surfaced. GD

I suppose I should update the list as I can't edit the older list post: Ok - so to summarize (I'll update as people post): Engine serials / build dates: - EA81 799337 - 07/81 931272 - 01/82 009899 - 04/82 039802 - 11/82 300305 - 05/83 460419 - 01/84 588506 - 07/84 665918 - 11/84 809067 - 05/85 015963 - 01/86 - EA82 000808 - 12/85 107177 - 07/92 Anyone have any more? GD

If you get a "big" (225mm) EA82 flywheel, the EA81 4WD clutch will bolt up just fine and you will have what you desire - a 225mm clutch for your 2WD Loyale. No - the EA82 "big" clutch will NOT work. The spline count for the disc is wrong, and the throwout bearing is a larger diameter and won't work either. Without changing the flywheel, it's not possible to have a "big" clutch as the small flywheel is different. So you just need to get the larger flywheel, and buy a "big" EA81 clutch and you will be OK. I have done this with a 2WD EA81 - it works just fine. And the EA81/EA82 2WD 5 speeds are the same transmission - both are derived from the EA81 4WD transmission, and as such share the same clutch parts. That's why you can use the EA81 4WD clutch with your 2WD transmission..... just substitute the EA82 4WD flywheel on the engine side and everything bolts together like it was meant to be that way! GD

The problem you are going to encounter is the throwout bearing - the 2WD's use the old EA81 style throwout, and you will have to use: EA81 4WD 225mm Pressure plate (1983+) EA81 4WD 225mm Disc (1983+) EA81 Thowout bearing & holder EA81 Pilot bearing EA82 4WD Flywheel GD

You may need to replace the ignitor on the coil bracket (actually, it's part of the bracket). These do sometimes fail. Also - you are using an OEM coil right? Nothing else is as reliable, and some of the Subaru ignition parts are sensitive to coil's that are outside their normal resistance range (IE: "High Performance" coils). Before you go and change that though, make SURE the coil bracket - the part that clamps the coil to the engine bay - has GOOD, SOLID ground. Clean the bolts that hold it to the body. If the coil bracket is not grounded the coil will never fire. Also make sure there is power to the ignitor, and if you like you can go here for more information on the SPFI system than you probably will ever want to know - pay no attention that it's not for your engine - I wrote it as a guide to swapping the SPFI to the older EA81, but the relavance is clear as it details the operation of the entire system and there's schematics for all the wiring: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD