GeneralDisorder

Older GL/Loyale will fit (85 to 91) but the lower hose will need to be switched to the "old style" hose as they changed the shape of them as well as the radiators lower output pipe. GD

Check your jets to make sure before you buy more. You should have (you'll have to remove the top cover to check them all): 140, 140 Mains (bottom of the float bowl) 160, 170 Air Correctors 45, 50, or 55 idle jet(s). (anywhere in that neighborhood will work once adjusted) The rest don't matter so much. The emulsion tubes are pretty standard as are the accelerator pump jets. Nearly all Weber set ups use similar jets for these. GD

I agree - I'm getting tired of posting it. But for all the knowledge YOU have Ken (and I mean that in the best way possible - you have a lot), I don't see you shareing it. Now I'm in no way judging you, or Mick, or Shawn or any of the others that have been here for ages and know most of this stuff - I'm sure you are busy, busy people with families and other obligations that I don't have, but *someone* needs to set people straight sometimes. I'll tone it down a bit. I often try to make my argument as forceful as possible (within reason, if you can beleive that ) in order to not have to post back and defend a less-forceful argument later. Although - thinking about it that usually just causes more frustration and I have to post anyway explaining myself further..... So it's sort of a lose-lose sitatuion I guess. I just don't want to end up never posting anything like a lot of the "old-timers" around here through total frustration over noobs and "kids" with wild ideas. It will happen eventually anyway I'm sure. GD

The turbo trannies use a 25 spline stub axle, but I think the input shaft splines should be the same. A lot of folks here use the XT6 clutch with their EA82T's, and with lifted rigs running the N/A dual range tranny. There's not been any talk of swapping around the disc's with them so it seems they should be the same. GD

That's debateable. His modifications certainly don't add up to a 75 HP increase on paper. I've seen the engine, and I've seen it perform. It's definately got more than stock, but it's never been dynoed by anything other than the seat of his pants. Ken's a great guy, but I respectfully say that this is not an accurate assesment of that engine. If it were, then RAM's 140 HP engine wouldn't need even 1/4th of the modifications they have done to it, let alone dual port heads. Just compareing the differences, and knowing that the RAM stuff is dynoed, and there's many more than just one person that have run them..... I can't see how Ken's engine could have 10 HP more than it while only requireing unmodified single port heads, some 1600 pistons, and a Delta cam. GD

Didn't ever say there's no reason to build an EA81. I'm working on one myself. I said that it's poor judgement to BUY one from RAM. Their engines and prices are not geared toward the automotive crowd. I love the EA81 and will probably stick with it for my off-roader. Building one is an excelent idea, but can be done MUCH, MUCH cheaper than what RAM does. GD

There is between 2WD and 4WD though. It's mostly in the exhaust "bump"..... which in their picture on that auction looks to be on the wrong side?? GD

If you have replaced the coil with any aftermarket units - there's a potential there for failure. Seems a lot of manufacturing when south of the border for Accell and MSD etc. Quality control is lacking. The higher your RPM goes the faster the coil has to charge so if the coil is weak it can hit an RPM range where it just doesn't have enough kick to jump the gap. Easy test is to make the plug gap smaller or larger and see if the RPM range where it cuts out changes dramatically. If it doesn't it's probably not the coil. You can also test the primary and secondary coil resistances to see if they are within spec and make sure there is a very high resistance between the two. These two test should rule out the coil if it passes both. The fuel filters are sounding like a good check too. Especially since it started cutting out up a hill like that and ran better when you weren't on it as hard. Don't forget the one next to the pump - but I'm sure you know about that Check the spray pattern from the secondary as it opens too - if it's poor you may have something stuck in the jet at the bottom of the float bowl, or you might have sucked something into the air corrector for the secondary. I've noticed the gauze style filters don't always catch stuff and the air correctors are open to the filter element. I've had that happen off-road and it behaves exactly like your description. GD

You have air, and fuel, and spark - so you don't have compression. That seems as fair a guess as any. I would say a head gasket let go, but that's just not common on the EA81's. Weird. Does it even try to fire on two cylinders? I wouldn't think it possible that both would go at once, and if they did it would sound very different cranking without compression in any cylinders. With two pumping it's hard to tell but it will usually try to sputter with only one bank fireing. GD

Yep - typical of bad DOJ's. Driveshaft u-joints can do it too though. But if you have an inner joint with a torn boot it's probably that one. I've seen them go without torn boots as well. Since it's comming from the back drop the rear portion of the driveline as sugested above. If it still does it then it's rear axle related, and if not then it could be driveshaft or center carrier related. GD

See if you can locate where the "sound" of the leak is loudest. Other members have found leaks at the vacuum actuators or in rotten lines near them. It could be at the switches as it happens in more than just one posistion, but each button switches vacuum to multiple actuators so it may be that it does leak in multiple positions simply because those positions all supply vacuum to the leak.... yeah Anyway, yes a vacuum leak can severely affect low-rpm and idle quality. If you don't have one, you might invest in a cheap vacuum guage and read a bit on how to decipher the readings from it. It can tell you a lot about the tune of your engine and would reveal if you likely have any vacuum leaks or not. Also spraying around with a bit of carb cleaner will locate vacuum leaks - when the cleaner is sucked into the leak it will increase the mixture and cause the engine to speed up momentarily. GD

EA82T is the *same* clutch as a 4WD EA82 N/A, but the clamping force of the pressure plate is higher. A regular 4WD clutch will fit, but won't grab like the turbo clutch will. GD

This is not germain to the conversation in the slightest. Wasting the boards time with information on Rochester carbs from the 70's isn't helping anyone here, nor the original poster. Great - use the Hitachi. More Weber's and SPFI for me. No, but reputation does. You aren't starting off well I might add. If you have more important things to do then why are you trolling here? GD

A LOT. They will convert your heads to dual-port for $1094. I'm not sure if that's for one or both, but either way it's not cheap. GD

Definately a later 80's EA82 rim. Looks too much like it came off a UFO for me, but hey - any alloy is better than steels right? GD

No - it's purely a matter of how much oil is being burned. That's largely a factor of the age and condition of the engine. Has nothing to do with OBD or any other emissions control system. Burned oil doesn't show up as hydrocarbons so while it may eventually clog the cat, it doesn't cause the car to fail inspections. That's why they always look for "visible" exhaust as well as test results, or an ECU probe. GD

Visit the wheels page to compare: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/wheels2/wheels.html GD

You can use the same ECU. What you will run into with the 85 tranny is that it has no Neutral Switch as there were no D/R's with fuel injection until late 87 (except RX's and such, but the low is only 1.2 on those). This will not be a huge issue, but you will want to "fake out" the ECU if you use a manual ECU, or if you use the auto ECU you will have the kickdown solenoid and the inhibitor switch to deal with. Either way unless you get creative the ECU will eventually illuminate the CEL when it doesn't see one of it's circuits. On my Brat I used one of those early D/R's. I made up a bracket and cut a notch into the side of the main shift rod in order to mount a neutral switch from a later tranny in such a way that it would operate as normal. So far it's worked well, but it required some careful fitting and a little bit of cutting and welding to build it. Not hard, but not something for a beginner to fabricate. Everything else should bolt up fine. You'll need the entire rear end and all associated parts. The gas tank should already have the hump for the diff, but look at it because some did and some didn't on the EA82's. Front sway bar is different - and the front struts and rear coil-overs are different as well. To swap from the auto you'll need the pedal assembly, and you'll have to hotwire the plug that goes to the auto shifter to allow the crank circuit to operate. On the clutch pedal there is a clutch switch that will have to be wired to the ECU unless you decide to keep your auto ECU. It's time consuming, but it can be done as a near bolt-in. Firgure several weeks of downtime unless you have every single day to work on it. GD

They don't fit real tight. Just tap them in lightly till flush with a soft blow hammer. There's no need for any special tools for these tiny seals. I've replaced dozens and never have I used any special tool for it. I could find a socket if I were really concerned about it, but there is just no need for it. GD

Well - besides cutting down on the "smelliness" of your vehicle, using the PCV keeps out water while fording if you are into off-road. That's my main purpose in using them. Also, on a daily driver there's another concern - that of acidic gases forming inside the crankcase (blowby). Engine vacuum helps to pull them out of the crankcase using the PCV valve as a one-way check. Before PCV valves there was the "road draft" system that used passing air over a tube extended below the vehicle to pull the gasses out. This of course didn't fly with the bunny-huggers so the PCV system was created to burn the gases rather than just vent them. On a race engine, or other limited use application where the oil is changed often this isn't an issue. Thus you see the fancy chrome valve cover breather filters. Personally all my rigs run PCV - both because I don't want to have to change the oil often enough to prevent acid build up, and because I like to steam clean my engines - even the ones that don't go fording. So the benefits far outweight the 5 HP I would get from bling valve cover filters. GD

It really doesn't take much coolant being burned to create some steam. It will initially look like exhaust on a cold morning. But it's hot so it doesn't make a big cloud - it disipates only a few feet from the pipe. You could just do the HG's on general principle. 300k km isn't much at all really. Plus the HG's on these are really easy. Just an afternoon job really unless you decide to mill the heads. Bad intake manifold gaskets will show the same burning coolant symptoms though - and improper installation or poor quality gaskets will just keep failing over and over. I say pull the manifold and look at the gaskets. If they are good just keep right on going till you get the heads off. GD

Three reasons: 1. It was basically free, low mileage (140k), and runs great. 2. It's temporary while I build a higher performing EA81 using the original engine from the Brat. 3. It was the natural choice after I converted the Brat to SPFI as it mated to the 5 speed with all parts I had on hand (free again). Clutch, etc. Don't get me wrong - of all the engines Subaru made I like the EA82 the least. But I tend to get them for next to nothing out here and a lot of them really run fantastic. Plus of course I resealed it, did the t-belts, and run it coverless so it's not such a pain to work on. Also I don't drive the Brat.... like ever. It's *one* of my backup rigs but I never use it unless I need to haul something. Don't like putting mileage on it, and don't like putting it in harms way with the drivers around here. Plus with the 5 speed and the 16 more HP than stock it's actually faster than stink (it's light) and begs to me to drive it like I stole it. Attracts pigs like stinky garbage too. I've been ticketed in the thing half a dozen times at least. No thanks :cool: GD

If it started to back out, then it's all the way down already. As for the front, raising the spring perches with the nuts will give about 1" additional lift. If they are all the way down already (no visible threads under the nuts) then they are already on their lowest setting. GD

No - your O2 is strictly for mixture control. It reads before the cat. Being you are in CA you might have issue with the test station, but the car will run no different. GD