GeneralDisorder

Any tool supply will carry 3/16" pin punches. Common tool. GD

If it's still under warantee then take it in. What *seems* like a TPS could in reality be a lot of things. Best to have it looked at and have any codes pulled. GD

Good to know. But just to clarify - there's no VC to fail in a FT4WD, so Sushi is fine to run mismatched tires, while us poor AWD folks have to watch what we put on. GD

That is not an "EGR" It's one of your Air Injection Valves, and it has failed. The reed valve inside is broken and it's letting raw exhaust flow back into the intake - that hot exhaust melted the plastic silencer. Remove the big steel pipe from the back of the AIS valve and insert a quarter (yes - $0.25) into the end of the valve and thread it back on. This will effectively disable the valve (you don't need it) and will keep the exhaust from flowing back to the intake. Now check the carb to make sure it didn't ingest too much of the melted plastic. If everything is good you'll be $0.25 poorer and better off in the future as it can no longer fail. If you are up to it, put a quarter in the other side too - you'll avoid future problems that way. GD

That restriction is *mostly* for the AWD Automatics. The auto's have a design limitation in their center viscous coupler that causes them to wear more rapidly when used with tires of differeing sizes. This will eventually cause "torque bind". I have never heard of adverse effects from running disimilar tires on an AWD 5 speed manual. Not that it's good for them, but they aren't as sensitive to it. The FT4WD should not be affected at all really since there is no viscous coupler in them. The center diff will not be harmed by different sizes of tires, as it's sole purpose is to allow the front to travel at different speeds than the rear - just as the front and rear diffs allow the left and right tires to travel at different speeds. GD

Actually, you have Full Time 4WD with a center diff locker. It's neccesary to differentiate between the the AWD systems (Viscous Clutch Pack), and the FT4WD systems (center locking diff) as they are functionally quite different. For example: With one wheel in the air (off a cliff, on ice, whatever), FT4WD will not move a single inch without locking the center diff. AWD will drive away as if nothing was wrong. The viscous pack insures that some power is always availible to the wheels with traction. Think of it as a very rudimentary center LSD (it's not a differential though). GD

Yeah - that's a common one. Those always have broken insulation at the least it seems. GD

Not only would that not help at all, but it might contribute to the exhaust port cracking common to these heads. Plus it would cost a bloody fortune! You have any idea what sodium filled valves cost? GD

Unfortunately the #12 fuse runs a LOT of stuff. I'll try to make a list for you from my wiring diagram: 1. Coil 2. Ignitor (inside distributor) 3. Gauge cluster (all the insturments) 4. Fuel level sender * 5. Brake fluid level sensor 6. Stop light switch * 7. Stop light checker module 8. Oil pressure sender or switch * 9. Anti-dieseling solenoid * 10. Vent solenoid 11. Stop switch (cruise control) * 12. Clutch switch (cruise control) * 13. Door ajar switches (all of them) * 14. Clock 15. Timer (seat belt chime, key warning) It could be any of those, but I would start looking at door ajar switches, and the pedal switches, etc. Anything that moves a lot and could be exposed to the elements. To start with, stop blowing up fuses. Hook up a 12v lamp (headlamp, or tail lamp, etc) to the fuse location. Since it's shorted it will glow at full brightness and will add enough resistance to the circuit to not harm the wiring. Start disconnecting components till the bulb dims or goes out. Then start reconnecting all the *other* components to make sure it's not some part of the wiring supplying more than one component. This will help you isolate the fault. I put a "*" next to the stuff I would be checking first. GD

That's rguyver's Brat. It's got a WRX (not STi) drivetrain. He also has a LOT of skills and many, many years of experience with Subaru's of all vintages. Not to mention access to machining equipment that most of us could only dream of. Not a good example.... considering. GD

Federal-Mogul (Fel-Pro, Sealed Power, etc) for everything but a few of the gaskets - OEM for those. Don't use chrome rings - they take forever to seat, and there's no real need for them. Sintered-Iron is best as you won't burn oil for 20,000 miles. GD

Is your AC idle-up vacuum pot working as designed? The idle with the AC compressor engaged is generally around 1200 RPM or so, but it's adjustable. GD

That causes too much heat - you can detemper the tap if you aren't careful. But with enough water you could do it that way - takes too long for me. I use a die grinder and keep it wet and cool. GD

Ah to be 18 again! Roller rockers won't get you squat by themselves - that's just icing after you REDESIGN the heads, pistons, rods, and add a HUGE blower. RAM makes a 200 HP EA81. It costs about $15,000, and that's a bargain. Frankly the EJ22 timing belts are very well designed. I wouldn't hesitate to run one off road. The covers fit nicely and can be sealed pretty easily. EA82 is a different story - I wouldn't get near a dusty barn with those timing belts. Sad, wimpy, emaciated things that they are.... GD

That is the fuel pump control unit - RPM sensor is another term for the same device. That doesn't seem to be your problem, but I thought I would clarify. GD

Yeah - probably bent some stuff. It's tight in there but it should be fixable. The track and rollers and stuff just bolts to the window and the inside of the door. Yep - just discard it if you rip it up or it's rotten. Not entirely neccesary in my experience......actually I've never noticed a lick of difference without them. GD

Just buy a cheap/wrecked gen 1 legacy - that gives you all the parts you need except the drilled EA82 flywheel, adaptor plate, and misc. hoses, etc. There's a couple members that can make one or both for you. You can mod the flywheel yourself with a die grinder or dremel and a carbide bit. GD

Um - he's talking about the proportioning valve - not sure how that article relates.... EA81's didn't have a p-valve at all for the rear so it's definitely not required for any mechanical reasons. GD

You just bend the hard line into a "pig tail" and connect the EA82 soft line. No special tools are required. You should use the proportion valve. I can tell you from experience it makes a difference. If you are running lifted it probably won't matter as much, but since the EA81's have no valve at all (EA82's all have them, and the disc valve is very little different from the drum valve) there's good reasons to install one, and no reasons that I know of not to - other than not wanting to do the extra labor. The cost of the valve is negligible GD

No Subaru ever made has had "locking hubs". Even a '75 4WD wagon (the first 4WD Subaru) was shift on the go, and no stopping, getting out, or locking of anything besides the flip of a lever was required. That has nothing to do with Subaru's unless you are talking about those of us with Welded diffs. Even then it's not an informed comment of any kind of worth. I say AWD for you as well..... but not for ^those^ reasons. GD

It was bored? Well that's interesting. Questions to ask: 1. Was it bored with a bore plate? If not you run a very high risk of the cylinder sleeves spinning. I'm sure you can imagine how bad that would be. The head gaskets will unseat, and dissasembling the engine (well - it would be pointless anyway) would be difficult as the wrist pins can't be accessed. 2. 9.0:1 pistons would be from a carbed block - were they original to the engine? What type of rings were used? They really aren't up to turbo pressure - you run a high risk of collapsed ring lands, and ANY amount of detonation could easily punch a hole in one. As for the spider intake - the only thing that will work with respect to that is a harness from a later XT Turbo that came with the spider intake. The TPS is different and won't be understood by the non-spider turbo ECU. A non-turbo MPFI ECU from an N/A XT won't understand boost conditions. So your choices are XT Turbo ECU and harness, or aftermarket. Aftermarket would be BY FAR the best as you could control things much better and possibly avoid killing those pistons (for a while). Your turbo and exhaust won't fit unless you also get an engine cross-member from a turbo EA82 car. The N/A cross member has no spot for the downpipe. Basically this is a bad idea - especially for the measly 25 HP you would gain. Sell that stuff to a board member that can use it and put in an EJ22 - it will be easier, 100 times more reliable, and will give you 40 more HP. There's members at legacycentral that have made 170 AWHP from N/A EJ22's without any turbo at all. You'll spend twice as much and get half as far with the EA82T. GD

I own a 94 LGT, and it definately doesn't have a subwoofer . Could have been an option I suppose - I'll have to look in my owners manual. GD

Well - at least you tried. It's not easy to ressurect something that has been abused for 24 years. But look at it this way - it was STILL on the road. That's an acheivment for an 83 these days. I see mostly EA82's in the junk yards because most of the EA81's have gone to the crusher by now. The cost to keep them on the road has exceeded their value in the marketplace for all except the Brat's. It's best to not tackle something on the far side of 20 years old if it's your only car. Heck - I've got three aging 20+ year old Subaru's and NONE of them are my daily drivers. They could be of course, but for various reasons they don't fit the bill - either too costly to drive daily (lifted, etc), or too valuable to rack up miles on (Brat's). And my Legacy is just more comfortable, has better commuting drivability, better heat, better power, better sound system (bone stock I mean), and all around it's nicer to pick up friends in, and nicer to be seen in. Not that I mind driving my Brat, but it's got no room for passengers, and it's a "rough" ride without power steering or AC, etc. With the cost of early gen Legacy's now easily under $1000..... I just don't see a reason to torture myself with the driveability of the EA series. They have their place, and their purpose, but for a commuter?.... not in my book. I commend you for your efforts, but an 83 wagon at this point has no real value other than for parts or to off-road till it turns into parts. Sounds like you got a decent trade in (as long as they didn't just stick that $700 onto the loan ) GD

EA81 D/R is a 4 speed and they suck (well - their linkage, and their mounts suck, but I digress). All EA82's had 5 speed's - the transmissions are phisically different and modifications are required to swap them around. For example - I have an EA82 5 speed D/R in my EA81 Brat. Because the 5MT's are better. Just trust me on this. The manual could either be a push-button or a D/R for 88 - there's no way to tell. GD

I say AWD. You can modulate the brakes to stop a tire from spinning too much, and if most of your driving is "on-road" without a lift or anything, then AWD is the way to go. Makes wet pavement a lot easier. GD