GeneralDisorder

Yes, but you may have to change the plug on it. Jumping tach is generally an indication of bad shaft bushings in the distributor, not a failure of the pickup coil..... and the later FI distributors don't have pickup coil's anyway, they have optical CAS sensors. Bad shaft bushings cause tach jumping in hall-effect style distributors, not in CAS distributors. So your tach may just be related to the missing, and not the distributor directly. Could be a weak coil, etc. But for $10 it's worth ruling it out. GD

beataru is correct, but before you do those expensive tests there's a couple of common leak locations other than hoses on the EA81's: 1. Intake manifold gaskets. (Very common). 2. Carb base gaskets. 3. Heater core bypass valve. The manifold and base gaskets can "weep" where no visible coolant leak is seen. The coolant will leak slowly and only once the engine reaches operating temp. This allows the coolant to boil off the block as it leaks and never drip on the ground. Generally speaking if the engine is leaking compression into the coolant then it will overpressure the system and leak coolant to the overflow line. You might install a bottle (soda bottle will work) to catch any overflow. GD

No help from me eh? Too bad since I know the answer. Actually I know *both* answers depending on your configuration . GD

Hhhmmm - pleased to meet you too! Who the hell are you again? Smells like a Troll to me.... Dear Mr. 24 posts, Please provide us with examples. You sir are slandering my good name without so much as a single "fact" which I have provided that is either "ridiculous" or "absurd". Furthermore, I do not require any of my "friends" on this fine and reputable forum to stick up for me. I am quite capable of fighting my own battles for I have clearly fogotten more than you will ever know about Subaru's. In the future, please refrain from talking "smack" in other people's posts when you have no intelligible assistance to provide. This is known as "trolling" and it's been known to get people banned. Interesting that you are a "new user" and yet seem to have more intimate knowledge of this boards members than most..... perhaps you know of this "banning" to which I refer.... dare I say from personal experience? Yours, GD

Yep - no feedback for you. But that's a good thing - believe me! GD

All 83+ engines were large-valve. Solid or Hydro - doesn't matter. GD

That's probably not a good bet. John Deer does their own thing. They build their own engines and stuff - not like anything in the automotive industry really. It also might be somewhat different electrically - like maybe it doesn't use the GM remote sensor system. A lot of power equipment is heavily simplified in that respect. GD

A google of that seems to indicate they aren't being produced anymore (like the Toyo's above), and shows a lot of links from Canada so they may not have been sold here in the US. Most decent 13's have been discontinued as there is no demand for them anymore. All manufacturers have gone to at least 14" and most are into the 15's and up now. GD

Ok - I'm about sick of this foolishness: This is NOT all one sentence. Learn to form sentences, and use the proper punctuation and spelling or you aren't going to get many people to read your rant - let alone give you advice or their opinion. I feel your frustration, but you need to slow down and make yourself understood. Communication is key - both here, and with Subaru. Sound like a fool, and sure as $hit you'll be treated like one too. GD

You want agressive? Got these with a car: Toyo 720 Snow Steel Extra. Steel studs, Mud+Snow rating, 165/70 r13 Doesn't seem like they have ever been used - all the studs are unworn. I don't really have any use for them myself. Someone should offer to buy em off me GD

Change the coil - those two cylinders use the same side of the coil (wasted spark, bank fired ignition) so it's a sure bet the coil is on the way out. GD

My 500 ft/lb rated impact hasn't failed to take one off yet. But you do need a sizeable compressor and tank to run a good sized impact. GD

Some early EA82's had the same setup on the front, and in the back the coil-over's shock tube had an adjustable sleeve that you can turn for height adjustment - it's got three "clicks". Subaru made a special tool for it, but a rag and a pair of channel-locks will do it too. That was only on 85 and 86 4WD's though I think. Later models were fixed with no adjustment. Aftermarket coil-overs and strut's don't generally have the adjusment's unless you can source NOS Monroe's - but they aren't made anymore. GD

Right - in order to fix it would require it to be completely torn down. Each component cleaned, and many replaced that aren't serviceable (hydraulic valves, torque converter, etc). All these parts alone would cost 2 or 3 times what a good used 3AT with it's TC would cost you. Either way you have to drop the tranny to do the job, so why not spend the money on a flywheel, clutch, and pedal assembly and install a 5 speed? Better mileage, better power, more reliable, and cheaper both in terms of parts, and labor compared with rebuilding that auto. Plus the 5 speed's are easily good for 500,000 miles (under normal driving) and a used 3AT might already be on it's last legs. Beleive us when we tell you the tranny is not worth rebuilding, and only worth replacing if you have a very good reason to need an auto and can find a low mileage used one. GD

Here ya go - it's geared towards EA81's, but there's a link at the bottom to Snowman's original write up for EA82's. Between the two you should be good: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

That's a really excelent product Jim. Thank you for brining it to our attention. Do you have anything similar for worn out choke shaft bearings in the carb top? Thought I would ask as I've run across that recently.... GD

Pump is shot. Get another tranny. All the kings horses, and all the kings men wouldn't be able to fix it - because of the kings ransom it would cost. They haven't made the 3AT for going on 14 years now - since the last Loyale rolled away - and at this point it's just cheaper to put in another one or a 5 speed as no one rebuilds these things. Once they lose oil pressure like that the internals are finished. Pump bits spread through the whole hydraulic system.... time for a 5 speed. Sorry about your luck. GD

Interesting viewpoint, but actually I contribute a lot of knowledge around here. And I've spent a lot of time helping other members both in person and online. Spent an entire month doing my SPFI conversion page... but of course you wouldn't know anything about that because you haven't contributed anything at all and probably never will. GD

Price out a FAA approved Rotax and you'll see they are bargain basement cheap in fact. There's NO market for these engines in cars. You really think anyone is building performance EA series cars? If I had the money to do it I still wouldn't. Neither would you - you just aren't old enough or smart enough to realize that yet. If I had that kind of money I would be building Clevelands or 400 SB's for a Pantera or Ferrari 308's or something. GD

Interesting assesment - comletely untrue, but interesting. The Hitachi carbs (and there's quite a few models, each with it's own set of problems), suffer from a variety of ailments. Among them some of the above problems. But that's hardly a complete list. In truth, no carb ever must be "replaced". They can be rebuilt, but in the case of the Hitachi's, and most especially the feedback Hitachi's and the DCZ series from the EA82's, it's often easier to replace the poor thing with a Weber. Coupled with the improved performance, ease of obtaining rebuild parts, and simple, rugged design, the Weber is a far superior and often cheaper when labor, and parts are considered. GD

Yet again you show your ignorance on the subject of EA81's. "Screwing up" the threads is not the problem. The valve covers are thin gauge steel and will flex inward breaking their seal with the head and flattening the gasket. The threads are more than strong enough to severely bend the valve cover. Sugestion - don't comment about models you have no experience with. You are young, and I'm sure you think you know most everything, but you are giving out incorrect and potentially harmful information. Stop while you are ahead. Try this: Admit you were wrong - show people around here you are a big enough man to do that. Just my advice to you. Oh yeah - and compare my post count and join date with your own. GD

The wireing IS the swap. The mechanical stuff is not all that bad - just time consuming as there is a large list of changes. Without full, and intimate knowledge of the workings of fuel injection, and good working knowledge of electrical in general, I don't feel that a swap of this magnitude is something that should be performed at all - even with a pre-made harness. There's safety to be considered here - you are dealing with high-pressure fuel, and electrical circuitry. Proper installation is critical for both your safety and everyone elses on the road. I've seen some really hinky wireing in my day (Generator Technician) and some of the worst was done by backyard auto mechanics. You should NEVER use a crimp style connector for instance - these are temporary or very low voltage at best. If you can't solder, and don't have the skills to do acid prep, know what type of flux to use, and can figure out the amperage draw of the various devices on your circuits..... you shouldn't be doing wireing at all. Not on the same roads I drive on GD

You say I'm being an rump roast, and I say I'm telling you the truth. I've seen it many times before. And IMO a reality check is in order. You aren't using your time or resources wisely. That IS being helpful. A lot more helpful than saying nothing and letting you get way in over your head on something like an EJ swap on a worthless car. The HG is an easy fix - and you'll learn something along the way. Start with that and save your money. Don't make the mistake that many other kids have made on this site and others - sinking your money and time into a car that is never going to be worth more than $500 is a waste. If you want Legacy power, then buy a Legacy. Leave the EJ swaps to people with classic or collectible vehicles, or who are doing it to lifted rigs, etc that are merely toys. Don't do this to your $500 reliable transportation. Of course you aren't going to listen to me anyway, but at least I can say "I told you so"..... yet again. GD

How do you figure that? 2 and 4 are on the same side so if it were rings that had been "fried", as you so eloquently put it, then one would not expect the two that share a head gasket would be the only ones that were damaged, nor would one expect 1 and 3 to both still be good. Coolant and oil leakage or burning are not the only ways a head gasket can fail. A head gasket holds in 3 things - coolant, oil, and compression. In this case you have a compression only leak - which indicates that the gasket is blown between the two cylinders and no where else. This happens all the time. You are not ready for an EJ swap. Maybe in a few years. Get a handle on what you have before you jump into the deep end over your head. Nearly every aspect of your vehicle has to be changed or modified for the EJ engine to be installed. Overall few have done it and there's good reason. For one thing - why would you waste the effort on a Loyale? What's it got that makes it worth the effort to swap it over? The car will not be worth a single penny more.... it's got no dual range, and Loyale's were stripped down to make way for the Legacy. There's few redeeming qualities that warrant such a massive effort of time and money. If it were a very nice GL, or a lifted DL/GL, or an RX or something perhaps - but not a plain Loyale. GD

VERY light pressure. Even a 1/4" drive ratchet will get them far, far too tight if you just keep turning. It will easily flex the valve cover and ruin the rubber grommets. About 2 or 3 ft/lbs is correct but it's best to use an in/lbs torque wrench and do 24 to 36 in/lbs. Use NEW rubber grommets too. The KID in the above post has never owned an EA81, and knows not what he speaks. GD