GeneralDisorder

NGK Plugs, OEM Wires, OEM Coil, OEM Cap, OEM Rotor. Nothing else is going to work as well, or as reliably. Accel coils are known to have a pretty high failure rate anymore - made in Mexico. Don't know what this "E3" plug is, but replace them with NGK's - gapped to .040" Get OEM wires, and an OEM coil if you can. Cap and rotor too. GD

Not in the US. The EJ18 was a brighton thing - mostly Impreza's..... maybe a few legacies although I've never seen one - would be a pretty underpowered legacy I would think - especially at higher altitudes. GD

That's the one for the feedback controlled carb - that ASV is vacuum operated. Besides - you don't need them anyway. GD

Exactly. GD

Up/Down has no relevance - it's a nut, and those are tightened or loosened. For this application you loosen the nuts to drive the spring perch upward and increase the suspension height (counter-clockwise looking down from above the car). That goes for stock strut casings..... that crazy aftermarket one in the above pictures I have no idea about as I've never encountered one myself. This however leads to poor camber, and the tires will wear severely on the outer edges if left this way for on-road travel. It's only supposed to be done off-road for the extra height (about 1"). GD

You are going to need to clarify that a bit. For one thing this is the phase 1 DOHC 2.5L yes? So there should be 2 cams on each side, not one. Which one is "spinning" and what part of it exactly?? Is the belt still on? What exactly is happening? If the belt is unbroken, that doesn't mean much. The belt CAN skip teeth without breaking, and without shedding any teeth. I have the old belt from my EJ22 that is still perfect but skipped several teeth on the drivers side cam due to a seized water pump - the backside of the belt (smooth side) runs the water pump and the when it seized it caused enough friction to jerk the belt hard - pulling back the hydraulic tensioner and allowing enough slack for the belt to jump several teeth. GD

The auto will work fine with a Weber - as Mostaru said the vacuum for the modulator (which is on the side of the tranny) comes from the intake manifold, not from the carb. GD

That's the RX transmission. FT4WD, Diff Lock, and D/R. Low is only 1.2:1 though instead of the 1.59:1 of the 4WD D/R as the RX transmission was designed for rally. Basically it's a 10 speed FT4WD box - it's not suited to crawling as the diff ratio is also only 3.7. GD

Yeah - the anti-dieseling solenoid requires power to allow the idle circuit to get fuel. If it's left unpowered the car will run but will die when the choke pulls off and the carb needs the idle circuit again. GD

Wishfull thinking, and sad to say that you won't. Many, many people come here (mostly young like yourself) with grand ideas of reinventing the wheel. Let me tell you that I have yet to see Wheel 2.0, and I've been here since a lot of the big dawgs were playing with EA81's - people that have 30 to 40 years on you and thousands of $$ to play with. It hasn't happened yet and when it does it's not going to be some armchair type such as yourself that does it. It's the guys that never ask questions that do this sort of thing - they just DO it and then show up with pictures. GD

Any tool supply will carry 3/16" pin punches. Common tool. GD

If it's still under warantee then take it in. What *seems* like a TPS could in reality be a lot of things. Best to have it looked at and have any codes pulled. GD

Good to know. But just to clarify - there's no VC to fail in a FT4WD, so Sushi is fine to run mismatched tires, while us poor AWD folks have to watch what we put on. GD

That is not an "EGR" It's one of your Air Injection Valves, and it has failed. The reed valve inside is broken and it's letting raw exhaust flow back into the intake - that hot exhaust melted the plastic silencer. Remove the big steel pipe from the back of the AIS valve and insert a quarter (yes - $0.25) into the end of the valve and thread it back on. This will effectively disable the valve (you don't need it) and will keep the exhaust from flowing back to the intake. Now check the carb to make sure it didn't ingest too much of the melted plastic. If everything is good you'll be $0.25 poorer and better off in the future as it can no longer fail. If you are up to it, put a quarter in the other side too - you'll avoid future problems that way. GD

That restriction is *mostly* for the AWD Automatics. The auto's have a design limitation in their center viscous coupler that causes them to wear more rapidly when used with tires of differeing sizes. This will eventually cause "torque bind". I have never heard of adverse effects from running disimilar tires on an AWD 5 speed manual. Not that it's good for them, but they aren't as sensitive to it. The FT4WD should not be affected at all really since there is no viscous coupler in them. The center diff will not be harmed by different sizes of tires, as it's sole purpose is to allow the front to travel at different speeds than the rear - just as the front and rear diffs allow the left and right tires to travel at different speeds. GD

Actually, you have Full Time 4WD with a center diff locker. It's neccesary to differentiate between the the AWD systems (Viscous Clutch Pack), and the FT4WD systems (center locking diff) as they are functionally quite different. For example: With one wheel in the air (off a cliff, on ice, whatever), FT4WD will not move a single inch without locking the center diff. AWD will drive away as if nothing was wrong. The viscous pack insures that some power is always availible to the wheels with traction. Think of it as a very rudimentary center LSD (it's not a differential though). GD

Yeah - that's a common one. Those always have broken insulation at the least it seems. GD

Not only would that not help at all, but it might contribute to the exhaust port cracking common to these heads. Plus it would cost a bloody fortune! You have any idea what sodium filled valves cost? GD

Unfortunately the #12 fuse runs a LOT of stuff. I'll try to make a list for you from my wiring diagram: 1. Coil 2. Ignitor (inside distributor) 3. Gauge cluster (all the insturments) 4. Fuel level sender * 5. Brake fluid level sensor 6. Stop light switch * 7. Stop light checker module 8. Oil pressure sender or switch * 9. Anti-dieseling solenoid * 10. Vent solenoid 11. Stop switch (cruise control) * 12. Clutch switch (cruise control) * 13. Door ajar switches (all of them) * 14. Clock 15. Timer (seat belt chime, key warning) It could be any of those, but I would start looking at door ajar switches, and the pedal switches, etc. Anything that moves a lot and could be exposed to the elements. To start with, stop blowing up fuses. Hook up a 12v lamp (headlamp, or tail lamp, etc) to the fuse location. Since it's shorted it will glow at full brightness and will add enough resistance to the circuit to not harm the wiring. Start disconnecting components till the bulb dims or goes out. Then start reconnecting all the *other* components to make sure it's not some part of the wiring supplying more than one component. This will help you isolate the fault. I put a "*" next to the stuff I would be checking first. GD

That's rguyver's Brat. It's got a WRX (not STi) drivetrain. He also has a LOT of skills and many, many years of experience with Subaru's of all vintages. Not to mention access to machining equipment that most of us could only dream of. Not a good example.... considering. GD

Federal-Mogul (Fel-Pro, Sealed Power, etc) for everything but a few of the gaskets - OEM for those. Don't use chrome rings - they take forever to seat, and there's no real need for them. Sintered-Iron is best as you won't burn oil for 20,000 miles. GD

Is your AC idle-up vacuum pot working as designed? The idle with the AC compressor engaged is generally around 1200 RPM or so, but it's adjustable. GD

That causes too much heat - you can detemper the tap if you aren't careful. But with enough water you could do it that way - takes too long for me. I use a die grinder and keep it wet and cool. GD

Ah to be 18 again! Roller rockers won't get you squat by themselves - that's just icing after you REDESIGN the heads, pistons, rods, and add a HUGE blower. RAM makes a 200 HP EA81. It costs about $15,000, and that's a bargain. Frankly the EJ22 timing belts are very well designed. I wouldn't hesitate to run one off road. The covers fit nicely and can be sealed pretty easily. EA82 is a different story - I wouldn't get near a dusty barn with those timing belts. Sad, wimpy, emaciated things that they are.... GD

That is the fuel pump control unit - RPM sensor is another term for the same device. That doesn't seem to be your problem, but I thought I would clarify. GD