GeneralDisorder

That's a really excelent product Jim. Thank you for brining it to our attention. Do you have anything similar for worn out choke shaft bearings in the carb top? Thought I would ask as I've run across that recently.... GD

Pump is shot. Get another tranny. All the kings horses, and all the kings men wouldn't be able to fix it - because of the kings ransom it would cost. They haven't made the 3AT for going on 14 years now - since the last Loyale rolled away - and at this point it's just cheaper to put in another one or a 5 speed as no one rebuilds these things. Once they lose oil pressure like that the internals are finished. Pump bits spread through the whole hydraulic system.... time for a 5 speed. Sorry about your luck. GD

Interesting viewpoint, but actually I contribute a lot of knowledge around here. And I've spent a lot of time helping other members both in person and online. Spent an entire month doing my SPFI conversion page... but of course you wouldn't know anything about that because you haven't contributed anything at all and probably never will. GD

Price out a FAA approved Rotax and you'll see they are bargain basement cheap in fact. There's NO market for these engines in cars. You really think anyone is building performance EA series cars? If I had the money to do it I still wouldn't. Neither would you - you just aren't old enough or smart enough to realize that yet. If I had that kind of money I would be building Clevelands or 400 SB's for a Pantera or Ferrari 308's or something. GD

Interesting assesment - comletely untrue, but interesting. The Hitachi carbs (and there's quite a few models, each with it's own set of problems), suffer from a variety of ailments. Among them some of the above problems. But that's hardly a complete list. In truth, no carb ever must be "replaced". They can be rebuilt, but in the case of the Hitachi's, and most especially the feedback Hitachi's and the DCZ series from the EA82's, it's often easier to replace the poor thing with a Weber. Coupled with the improved performance, ease of obtaining rebuild parts, and simple, rugged design, the Weber is a far superior and often cheaper when labor, and parts are considered. GD

Yet again you show your ignorance on the subject of EA81's. "Screwing up" the threads is not the problem. The valve covers are thin gauge steel and will flex inward breaking their seal with the head and flattening the gasket. The threads are more than strong enough to severely bend the valve cover. Sugestion - don't comment about models you have no experience with. You are young, and I'm sure you think you know most everything, but you are giving out incorrect and potentially harmful information. Stop while you are ahead. Try this: Admit you were wrong - show people around here you are a big enough man to do that. Just my advice to you. Oh yeah - and compare my post count and join date with your own. GD

The wireing IS the swap. The mechanical stuff is not all that bad - just time consuming as there is a large list of changes. Without full, and intimate knowledge of the workings of fuel injection, and good working knowledge of electrical in general, I don't feel that a swap of this magnitude is something that should be performed at all - even with a pre-made harness. There's safety to be considered here - you are dealing with high-pressure fuel, and electrical circuitry. Proper installation is critical for both your safety and everyone elses on the road. I've seen some really hinky wireing in my day (Generator Technician) and some of the worst was done by backyard auto mechanics. You should NEVER use a crimp style connector for instance - these are temporary or very low voltage at best. If you can't solder, and don't have the skills to do acid prep, know what type of flux to use, and can figure out the amperage draw of the various devices on your circuits..... you shouldn't be doing wireing at all. Not on the same roads I drive on GD

You say I'm being an rump roast, and I say I'm telling you the truth. I've seen it many times before. And IMO a reality check is in order. You aren't using your time or resources wisely. That IS being helpful. A lot more helpful than saying nothing and letting you get way in over your head on something like an EJ swap on a worthless car. The HG is an easy fix - and you'll learn something along the way. Start with that and save your money. Don't make the mistake that many other kids have made on this site and others - sinking your money and time into a car that is never going to be worth more than $500 is a waste. If you want Legacy power, then buy a Legacy. Leave the EJ swaps to people with classic or collectible vehicles, or who are doing it to lifted rigs, etc that are merely toys. Don't do this to your $500 reliable transportation. Of course you aren't going to listen to me anyway, but at least I can say "I told you so"..... yet again. GD

How do you figure that? 2 and 4 are on the same side so if it were rings that had been "fried", as you so eloquently put it, then one would not expect the two that share a head gasket would be the only ones that were damaged, nor would one expect 1 and 3 to both still be good. Coolant and oil leakage or burning are not the only ways a head gasket can fail. A head gasket holds in 3 things - coolant, oil, and compression. In this case you have a compression only leak - which indicates that the gasket is blown between the two cylinders and no where else. This happens all the time. You are not ready for an EJ swap. Maybe in a few years. Get a handle on what you have before you jump into the deep end over your head. Nearly every aspect of your vehicle has to be changed or modified for the EJ engine to be installed. Overall few have done it and there's good reason. For one thing - why would you waste the effort on a Loyale? What's it got that makes it worth the effort to swap it over? The car will not be worth a single penny more.... it's got no dual range, and Loyale's were stripped down to make way for the Legacy. There's few redeeming qualities that warrant such a massive effort of time and money. If it were a very nice GL, or a lifted DL/GL, or an RX or something perhaps - but not a plain Loyale. GD

VERY light pressure. Even a 1/4" drive ratchet will get them far, far too tight if you just keep turning. It will easily flex the valve cover and ruin the rubber grommets. About 2 or 3 ft/lbs is correct but it's best to use an in/lbs torque wrench and do 24 to 36 in/lbs. Use NEW rubber grommets too. The KID in the above post has never owned an EA81, and knows not what he speaks. GD

Pardon my frankness, but if you can't even diagnose a simple overheat, how in the world are you going to swap in an EJ22? Do you even know what that entails? Do you have an adaptor plate yet? Have you ever done wiring on that scale? This is not just a simple swap of engines.... GD

If my experience, and the experience of many others here is any sort of metric on this, there were MANY more feedback models made than just the ones shipped to CA. I've owned several personally as have many members throughout the US. Despite what Subaru may have called them, they were definately sold in more than just CA. I can go to my local yards and on a normal day 25% or more are feedback (out of those that are carbed). That's how I've been able to find used parts to try and resurrect several feedback systems to correct functioning. Alas it's a lost cause. At any rate he does have one as he just confirmed it. But just to make extra sure - DOES IT HAVE AN O2?? DCZ-328 means nothing - all EA82 Hitachi's are DCZ-328's. Just as all EA81 Hitachi's are DCP-306's. The last 3 numbers indicate the barrel sizes. The EA81 is a 26/30, and the EA82 is a 28/32. GD

EA81 gaskets are cork, and the valve covers are steel. There is no groove at all. It's completely unlike any later engine design being that they are not overhead cam. Think of them as a smaller, but thicker version of the oil pan gasket, but without the bolt holes. GD

Get a new set of cork valve cover gaskets. BUT you should coat both sides of the gasket in a thin layer of Ultra Grey RTV and let it dry before installing them. Replace the rubber bolt washers too. This will prevent the gaskets from soaking up oil and getting cooked. GD

It's weird - I started out with that stuff - Fat Tire, and (around here) McMennemins brews, but now I would just rather have a half rack of RR. It's just good. Although I do like some of the "chewy" beers still, I find that more of my enjoyment in drinking a few long necks is the company I'm with. GD

Sometimes the rotor won't actually spin freely. On some there is still a flat spot that holds it from spinning entirely 360 degrees (and not running at all) - on those it will just shift around like 10 or 15 degrees either way. Still results in the same symptoms, just never dies completely. I've seen them fall out on a number of occasions. Makes em run like poo. GD

That's a lot of work to go through - just replace it. They can be found used for nothing. It's just a thermistor (or RTD if you swing that way). GD

+1 GD

Yep It's really not that bad once you get started. Understanding how both the carbs, and the SPFI operates - the principles behind it - are what make it doable. I suppose that's why so few have done it - despite me and Snowman both attempting to make it more accesible to the community. Yeah - probably not a bad idea. At this point the duty solenoids are probably shot anyway. And tuning new ones would take an o-scope and the '81 FSM..... and probably a week of your life you would never get back. Not to mention the cost would be more than a Weber for the parts needed to make it all function. For what? 1 mpg?? That's all the CA feedback models got over the non-feedback versions. GD

The extra holes are for a different stud pattern (IE - different make/model). No one I know of makes a 10 lug passenger car GD

For starters - it's not possible anymore, and you are are polishing a turd so-to-speak. The car is worthless as cars go, and will never be worth anything to speak of. Sure it's a fine car, but that's ALL it is. Make it the best car it can be, but don't kid yourself about "keeping it stock". You are worrying about tiny, tiny details when you should just be happy it's still on the road with that scandal of a carb on it. You may love it, but that doesn't mean it was well designed or even designed for the right reasons. If you REALLY love it, then do the SPFI swap - I've done all the work for you: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html And if you REALLY, REALLY love it, rip out the underpowered EA81 and put in an EJ22. Or just buy a Legacy - gaurantee you'll love it more No idea - whichever one shows continuity with ground. Make due by spending that $40 on a used non-feedback Hitachi then. Don't throw away money on O2 sensors. Or just run with the O2 disconnected - it really won't make that much difference. The feedback system at this point is so old it may not really function much at all anymore. Not that it did a whole lot to begin with other than make mechanics very angry GD

Resprayed outback with WRX swap.... Probably poorly done by the looks of the unilug rims. Who would go to all that trouble then put unilugs on a car? Stupid looking. GD

Tight is good enough. GD

No - no one makes them anymore. You will have to splice in a single wire sensor. The second wire on yours is the ground. All new units ground through the exhaust. Just eliminate the ground wire from your setup. What's your problem with splicing? Solder and heat shrink it if you want it to be professional. There's no reason to be scared of doing a little wiring. I'm a generator tech. and I do wireing all day long. Sometimes things change - you have to change the way wireing hooks up to stuff. Just the other day I replaced a main 3-phase breaker in a Generac and had to change the wires from hex-clamp to bolted lug.... no big deal. Siemens had superceded my part with a new model. Happens all the time. It's sad that you are still using the feedback carb though - get rid of it. Then you don't need to bother with the silly sensors. Put on a Weber, you will be much happier - trust me on this - I've been round and round this tree many times. GD

Nearly all half shafts of all makes and models are put together this way. Even the IFS on the Toyota trucks is done this way. The only difference is that the stub axles seperate from the Subaru axles using the roll-pin. The cir-clip is ubiquitous and rarely if ever do you see one come out on it's own. The suspension is built to not allow the axle to droop far enough to pull them free. On a lot of makes, the cir-clips don't center very well on their own and tend to bind when attempting to install them. I use a peice of rubber band and put it under the cir-clip to hold it out and even all the way around when inserting them. Sometimes inexperienced mechanics will smash the cir-clips down so they don't extend very far out of the groove in an effort to get them installed without binding - this could lead to them comming out too easily. GD