GeneralDisorder

No - you have an EA81. Hatchbacks and Brats were made till 89 and 87 respectively. You suspension is fully adjustable. I was simply answering the question posted about EA82's. Your EA81, as stated, is adjustable. However, since I'm posting anyway, I'll state that suspention isn't your problem. Your exhaust is cooking the boot on the passenger side. That's a known problem. I sugest you check your fuel mixture as your cat is probably overheating. Also the heat shield is in place right? You can always gut your cat to keep the heat down. It's also possible that the quality of the MWE boots isn't all that good. But I have no direct experience with that. I know the GCK boots are extremely thick. GD

It's not the rust, it's the carbon. I've had the sensors come out (with a BATTLE) and leave all their threads in the coverter. Basically it was such a battle because I wasn't so much unscrewing the sensor as ripping it's threads off. But I've been able to chase them out and get a new sensor to thread in alright. GD

Trying to send you a PM, but your box is full. GD

You'll probably find one eventually if you stick with Subaru's. I've had almost every model come across my path at one time or another. Just got an 83 Hatch for my new off-road project. Just showed up in my driveway one day . They follow me home. I have 5 right now and another on the way after thanksgiving :-p GD

Check your tie rod ends and ball joints for play. The clunking when going over bumps indicates possibly your ball joints are going out. GD

Yeah - if you douse it in PB blaster or Yield or something for a few days that might help. I never seem to know in advance when I'm going to be doing stuff like this so I just strong-arm my way around it. If you can get a box-wrench on it by cutting the old wire try that first. I always seem to have to use an impact on them, and then chasing the threads is needed so you need better access to run the thread chasing tap in. GD

Drop the y-pipe. You'll need to in order to get at it, and to chase the threads properly. These are hard enough as it is - near impossible if you don't take the y-pipe off the car to work on it. These are almost always real tough to get out. A special socket is nice, but I've done many without one. I usually just cut the O2 off with a die grinder to fit a normal socket on it (then use an impact). Warm up the engine to operating temp and pull the exhaust off while it's still warm. This helps in getting them out. Chase the threads with a spark plug thread chaser and use anti-seize on the new sensor. GD

Does knowing that it's got SPFI, an EA82 from a 93, a 5 speed D/R, and rear discs make you want it more? But no, it goes when I go. And maybe I'll be burried with it. Hard to say GD

I'll accept your penance....this time. You mere mortals make me laugh sometimes . Anyway. So there's two systems - one for feedback (CA, and 49 states 2WD), and one for non. On feedback equipped models there is a relay - controlled by the ECU. It is next to the ignition relay somewhere on the passenger side floor - probably under the passenger seat.... under the carpet. Perhaps under the rear seat bottom - it's difficult to tell from the FSM's illustration. But it's definately on an off-shoot of the rear harness that runs along the passenger side jam. The non-feedback (49 states 4WD, 4WD-AT, and Canada) doesn't have a relay. The choke is controlled by the FPCU (fuel pump control unit) that is located just above the hood release handle bracket under the drivers side kick panel. It's a black box with a 6 pin connector. That should all hold true for an 81. I would have to go to my garage for an '80 manual to be entirely sure, but likely it's the same. At any rate there should only be a relay if it has an ECU. GD

I agree that the flywheel modification can easily be done at home with basic tools. However, making the actual adaptor plate is a bit more sticky IMO because of the need to very accurately center the input shaft to the pilot bearing. Otherwise you risk causing damage to the pilot bearing, or the input shaft bearing. So far, the only adaptor plates I *know* of that properly take this into account are the ones made by rguyver as his are made by CNC with this alignment specifically addressed. Others might be accurate as well, but I don't have any knowledge on those. GD

Yes, but you may have to change the plug on it. Jumping tach is generally an indication of bad shaft bushings in the distributor, not a failure of the pickup coil..... and the later FI distributors don't have pickup coil's anyway, they have optical CAS sensors. Bad shaft bushings cause tach jumping in hall-effect style distributors, not in CAS distributors. So your tach may just be related to the missing, and not the distributor directly. Could be a weak coil, etc. But for $10 it's worth ruling it out. GD

beataru is correct, but before you do those expensive tests there's a couple of common leak locations other than hoses on the EA81's: 1. Intake manifold gaskets. (Very common). 2. Carb base gaskets. 3. Heater core bypass valve. The manifold and base gaskets can "weep" where no visible coolant leak is seen. The coolant will leak slowly and only once the engine reaches operating temp. This allows the coolant to boil off the block as it leaks and never drip on the ground. Generally speaking if the engine is leaking compression into the coolant then it will overpressure the system and leak coolant to the overflow line. You might install a bottle (soda bottle will work) to catch any overflow. GD

No help from me eh? Too bad since I know the answer. Actually I know *both* answers depending on your configuration . GD

Hhhmmm - pleased to meet you too! Who the hell are you again? Smells like a Troll to me.... Dear Mr. 24 posts, Please provide us with examples. You sir are slandering my good name without so much as a single "fact" which I have provided that is either "ridiculous" or "absurd". Furthermore, I do not require any of my "friends" on this fine and reputable forum to stick up for me. I am quite capable of fighting my own battles for I have clearly fogotten more than you will ever know about Subaru's. In the future, please refrain from talking "smack" in other people's posts when you have no intelligible assistance to provide. This is known as "trolling" and it's been known to get people banned. Interesting that you are a "new user" and yet seem to have more intimate knowledge of this boards members than most..... perhaps you know of this "banning" to which I refer.... dare I say from personal experience? Yours, GD

Yep - no feedback for you. But that's a good thing - believe me! GD

All 83+ engines were large-valve. Solid or Hydro - doesn't matter. GD

That's probably not a good bet. John Deer does their own thing. They build their own engines and stuff - not like anything in the automotive industry really. It also might be somewhat different electrically - like maybe it doesn't use the GM remote sensor system. A lot of power equipment is heavily simplified in that respect. GD

A google of that seems to indicate they aren't being produced anymore (like the Toyo's above), and shows a lot of links from Canada so they may not have been sold here in the US. Most decent 13's have been discontinued as there is no demand for them anymore. All manufacturers have gone to at least 14" and most are into the 15's and up now. GD

Ok - I'm about sick of this foolishness: This is NOT all one sentence. Learn to form sentences, and use the proper punctuation and spelling or you aren't going to get many people to read your rant - let alone give you advice or their opinion. I feel your frustration, but you need to slow down and make yourself understood. Communication is key - both here, and with Subaru. Sound like a fool, and sure as $hit you'll be treated like one too. GD

You want agressive? Got these with a car: Toyo 720 Snow Steel Extra. Steel studs, Mud+Snow rating, 165/70 r13 Doesn't seem like they have ever been used - all the studs are unworn. I don't really have any use for them myself. Someone should offer to buy em off me GD

Change the coil - those two cylinders use the same side of the coil (wasted spark, bank fired ignition) so it's a sure bet the coil is on the way out. GD

My 500 ft/lb rated impact hasn't failed to take one off yet. But you do need a sizeable compressor and tank to run a good sized impact. GD

Some early EA82's had the same setup on the front, and in the back the coil-over's shock tube had an adjustable sleeve that you can turn for height adjustment - it's got three "clicks". Subaru made a special tool for it, but a rag and a pair of channel-locks will do it too. That was only on 85 and 86 4WD's though I think. Later models were fixed with no adjustment. Aftermarket coil-overs and strut's don't generally have the adjusment's unless you can source NOS Monroe's - but they aren't made anymore. GD

Right - in order to fix it would require it to be completely torn down. Each component cleaned, and many replaced that aren't serviceable (hydraulic valves, torque converter, etc). All these parts alone would cost 2 or 3 times what a good used 3AT with it's TC would cost you. Either way you have to drop the tranny to do the job, so why not spend the money on a flywheel, clutch, and pedal assembly and install a 5 speed? Better mileage, better power, more reliable, and cheaper both in terms of parts, and labor compared with rebuilding that auto. Plus the 5 speed's are easily good for 500,000 miles (under normal driving) and a used 3AT might already be on it's last legs. Beleive us when we tell you the tranny is not worth rebuilding, and only worth replacing if you have a very good reason to need an auto and can find a low mileage used one. GD

Here ya go - it's geared towards EA81's, but there's a link at the bottom to Snowman's original write up for EA82's. Between the two you should be good: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD