GeneralDisorder

Yeah - that works. Even on EA82's. On the 86+ EA82 D/R 4WD's you can slip the cup between the center console and the 4WD lever. But only if it's a medium size or smaller. Large drink cups don't fit. GD

The holder on Legacy's is in front of the stereo - that's just how they are designed. Never had a problem with stereo "douching" in mine, but I do wish it didn't obscure the deck so much. I'm just glad I have *something* after years of EA series Subaru's, and dozens of "I just peed myself" looking wet spots. GD

If you have an O2 sensor, then you have a feedback (computerized) carb. Non-computer carbs are not equipped with O2's at all. You do have an "ECS" (emissions control system) lamp in your guage cluster, or on the surround. But that doesn't mean someone didn't pull the bulb out of it. Remove the kick panel under the drivers side and you will see the computer. It has a flashing red LED that will indicate codes. Whether or not the shop used the carb from the Japanese motor is a good question - but if they did then they clearly aren't as honest or knowledgable as you think because they would know that the O2 isn't doing anything at all - being they were the ones that replaced the engine in the first place. If that's the case, then the computer, O2 and every other sensor associated with the feedback isn't doing anything, although it's likely still in place as it supplies power to the fuel pump and it's easier to just let it keep doing that. GD

Felpro's are no good. They are cardboard like the rest. Dealer only. They are about $3.65 each at my dealer - but they give me wholesale so YMMV. GD

Ahhh! you mean he should check for vacuum leaks around the carb base But he shouldn't have to mess with it if it was already on the engine when they dropped it in the car and ran fine before. GD

Frankly, any single wire is fine, and the cheapest is generally a Bosch or similar. They are all the same, and for the feedback Hitachi you have it doesn't matter. It probably won't do any good to replace it anyway on that mess of a fuel system. But if you replace it you would know it's good in case you ever wanted to swap over to the SPFI - it requires the same O2. Every one I've ever seen was bad, so I would have to say not long. This one is the coffin nail for the EA82 feedback as it's dealer only, and about $170 or more. It's not worth bothering with the whole feedback Hitachi carb when you can retrofit a Weber for about $275 for the brand new kit. More power, better mileage, no computer or sensors. Have your shop install one for you. The labor will be less too as it's simpler and takes less time than fiddling with that computerized mess of a carb. GD

Looks normal to me. If, as you claim, you are not using any oil.... well then you have answered your own question. What symptoms are you experienceing that you attribute to this carbon build up? Some carbon is normal and is a normal product of the small amounts of oil natually present in the cylinder, as well as the ignition spark itself. GD

What?? That's not going to help the man. You don't need the spacer. GD

Also EA81 fuel tanks have a drain plug in the bottom. So if you are concerned about the tank contents then pull the plug first and drain it all out. You can pull the sending unit and reach your hand inside to check for sediment or to flush the tank, etc. GD

Before you swap the tank out use a bucket or gas can as a surrogate tank to verify it's fuel tank or tank contents related. It sounds like it might be electrical though, and related to the vehicle. What color is the spark? Could be a weird short somewhere or something. GD

Should be a 12mm hex socket IIRC. But then it might be a 14mm too..... measure it with a bolt. It's pretty rare to need to remove those plugs though. What is your purpose? GD

AC current from the alternator's rectifier is defeating the diodes in your guage cluster. At this point from the extended AC output your battery is also shot. Replace both. GD

Frankly I could care less about looks. I'm an engineer and as such I care almost entirely about functionality. The fact that some models are quirky is a DRAWBACK in most cases, but I happen to live in an area of the country where they are/were popular and so mostly it's not an issue. If I lived in an area where Subaru's were not plentiful in the junk yards I would drive Toyota's and wouldn't blink an eye. The engineering quality is what matters and Toyota's are just as good. Subaru's are my choice because they are (in order of importance to me): 1. 4WD and AWD. 2. Inexpensive to own and work on. 3. Easy to work on. 4. Accesible in my area. 5. 4 wheel independant suspension. Nothing else really matters. I drive a 94 Legacy wagon because it's all-weather, hauls my tools and parts, it's pre OBD-II, reliable, cheap, and doesn't draw attention from the authorities. It's not a huge pain in the neck to repair on the odd occasion that it needs work, and parts are accesible here in the junk yards. I don't think that has changed so much - even with the 08's. And when they are 10 to 15 years old I will probably pick one up (assuming I still live in Subaru country). GD

Seems that way doesn't it? These guys do a lot of electrical equipment restoration for shops all around the portland metro area. That's how I found out about them. I don't think they do a lot of "walk in" customer work so their location isn't really geared toward consumers.... no real storefront just a door next to a tavern. Hehe. But I highly reccomend them for their electrical and distributor work. A complete rebuild runs less than $100 for everything and it comes back shiny, with the vac can painted high-temp black. I've always been impressed. Old guys, and somewhat crotchety, but highly skilled. GD

The US is a bigger market, and the US importers get first pick and are likely much more sensitive to quality and more demanding of it. When you pay top dollar you get the cream of the crop - the rest probably go to smaller markets at discounted rates. GD

Cheapest single wire you can get. Set aside at least 6 hours for this job as it's welded itself into the cat, and won't be easy to remove. You'll have to bust the old one off, then go at it with a big socket. Then chase the threads with a spark plug thread chaser. Expect sore arms.... But frankly it won't help that feedback Hitachi. Like as not the manifold pressure sensor is shot (every one I've tested was), and those are more expensive then a Weber. That whole EA82 feedback system was hands down the worst fuel delivery system Subaru ever made. GD

Better to call - they are a small outfit, and the place isn't real tidy so I doubt they check their email too often. They do great work, but the place is old, and in a bad neighborhood GD

Some carbon is normal. You might have a PCV problem that is sucking oil, or you might have bad valve stem seals, etc. Oil can only get in through the intake, rings, or valves. It's up to you to figure out which it is. GD

EA81 Hitachi won't fit an EA82 manifold. Different base pattern. You can trick the smog guys by cutting out a stock airbox and putting it on the Weber. GD

Not really, except for the obvious differences between the Hitachi and Carter/Weber manifolds. If you are using an EA82 manifold, then you will want a Weber so vacuum routing won't matter. The EA82 Hitachi is crap - worse than the EA81 version in several ways. Don't go there. Better yet - go with the SPFI conversion. GD

Driving is part of it, but being prepared, and having the appropriate knowledge and equipment is just as important. As stock Subaru's go, they are all about equal. I can make a single mod to an EA series Subaru an go just about anywhere most mildly lifted Subaru's can go. All you need is appropriate tire pressure, a welded rear diff, and the skill to drive it. The only thing a "lift" gets you is ground clearance, and more agressive tires - both of which help for some types of terrain, but ultimately 90% of what a lifted rig can do you could also do in a stock vehicle with careful driving. Don't offroad your 3AT - you'll blow that tranny. Your's is a street vehicle, or at most a snow vehicle with that transmission. Any severe angles and you'll screw it up. GD

Just call the guys I linked to. They can rebuild it for you by mail. Any used ones are likely not going to last as long anyway. GD

The RX tranny will not transfer power as evenly through the drivetrain as the AWD legacy tranny would. The VC evens out the power flow, while the open center diff does not. An RX with one wheel off a cliff won't move at all without locking the diff. A Legacy will drive away like nothing was wrong because the VC will send power to both the front and rear even if one wheel has no traction at all. Ultimately this means that more HP through the RX transmission stresses components more unevenly than the AWD of the legacy would. It's also old and presumably has a few miles on it. Putting a lot of HP through an aged transmission not designed for it is always a recipe for disaster. Also the EJ22T is going to have a pusher style clutch and won't mate as easily to the RX tranny as it would to a true Turbo tranny. It would require some clutch part swapping. GD

As long as the marks on the belt are lined up it should be good. And as long as it's a 95 or older it's non-interferance anyway so you won't break anything if it's off. GD

You would need to notch the frame rail on the drivers side to clear the valve cover - a notch about 1" deep and 4" long will be enough. You can then box it with steel and paint it. Some claim they don't have to do this - it may depend on your transmission. I used the EA82 5 speed at the same time and with Jerry's kit the transmission is tipped backward slightly so it may have exacerbated the problem in my case. But be aware that the EA82 is a LOT wider, and for SURE if you don't notch it there will be no way to remove the valve covers without pulling the engine back out. Move the hill holder lines to clear the distributor, and then you install the distributor AFTER the engine is in place in the bay. You use a 86-92 lower EA82 radiator hose for the upper hose by cutting it slightly, and notching the fan shroud, and you use a 92-94 lower EA82 hose for the lower hose (fits perfectly). Swap the pitching stopper bracket from the EA81 to the EA82. Clutch bits are mixed and matched depending on transmission. The EA82 produces 11 HP more in carbed form so it's not really worth the hassle. I happened to be also swapping over to SPFI at the same time and decided to rebuild the EA81.... the SPFI EA82 is 16 HP more than the EA81 in stock form and I had one laying around. But the EA81 will go back in soon. GD