GeneralDisorder

Weld it and paint it - shouldn't be hard. GD

Could be electrical - use a noid light to make sure the injector is even fireing. GD

Not just uneccesary - they will crack again even if you close them. It's just the nature of that head design. GD

Cracks between the valves are normal, and not to be fixed. You won't find a set that doesn't have them. GD

Used - probably around $250 to $750 depending. The "healthy" part is debatable. I would rebuild anything used while it's out. Surely you jest! EA82T's are renown for their ability to leak - mostly coolant and compression. But such is the nature of 80's turbo engines in general. The EA82T's have a tendacy towards head and headgasket issues more than most though. Your best bet, if you want reliability, is to get a rebuilt engine from CCR. Unfortunately that will cost you more than a decent Legacy - like around $1200 or more. Personally I would go with the Legacy. GD

Mine was $750, low mileage, and needed a water pump. But then I did go looking for one. Water pump and t-belt were by far the easiest on any Subaru I've yet touced. Exceedingly simple. Just got back from a 1500 mile trip to Reno and back to Portland. Flawless, and comfortable. While I was there I did the "Scotty's Cocktail" to my 5 speed. Shifts like new (possibly better - I can put it in 1st at over 25 MPH rolling). I'm sooo loving the simplicty. Looks it may not have, but in almost every other way save for raw off-road capability, it trumps all older gen's, and as far as I'm concerned it's easily one of the best values in a used car you can get. GD

They aren't pretty, but that's not the point. I don't want to be noticed. It's a daily driver that's reliable, quick, AWD, and won't get me profiled. I'm not tempted to try to "mod" it, nor am I going to drive it with spirit. I don't mind racking on the miles, nor would I be heartbroken should it get wrecked.... "Cool" looking is the last thing I want in a DD. I can have more than one car, and the above characteristics are more important IMO if you can only own one. Thus the reason I sugested it over bothering with the problematic money pit that he has. GD

Prius 0 to 60: 12 seconds..... 2005 Suzuki swift (1.3): 11 seconds. The prius has the MPG edge by 1. That's right - the Swift gets 45, and the Prius claims 46. Nevermind that no one ever seems to get that. Then there's the battery replacement costs when they exceed their useful lifetime. I beleive someone mentioned that was around $8,000 :-\ That's about all anyone needs to know. It's complicated, heavy, and just plain stupid. They are simply selling them based on misinformation, and buzz words. It's a "Hybrid" so it MUST be better . GD

With the combination you have, you should get around 25 if it was in tune. That said, I would dump it and get a gen 1 Legacy. They are cheap, 130 HP, the fuel injection is more reliable. Mine gets 25 city, 29 freeway. And it's a lot more pleasureable to drive. GD

JB weld isn't plastic - it's metallic powder with an epoxy binder. It's excelent for refinishing mating surfaces like that, or repairing various other cracks and non load bearing parts. GD

There's a place for RTV, but it's not on the intake or exhaust gaskets. I coat my EA oil pan gaskets in it and let them dry - homemade rubber pan gasket. Prevents them from absorbing oil and getting cooked. I also use it on the cam towers, and the valve covers for EA82's and the cork valve cover gaskets for EA81's. I use it on the waterpumps and the thermostat housings as well sometimes. I have never used the "copper" stuff, nor have I found a reason to. Basically I have three compounds that I will stock - RTV (usually ultra grey), Anerobic (permatex), and Gaskachich (rubber cement - carb base gaskets, and other gasoline prone areas). There are no other sealants I have found a use for on Subaru engines. GD

Pull off that Hitachi carb and wing it at some stray cat. GD

Wheel balance, Alignment, possibly other suspension bits. GD

Then you fill in the imperfections with JB weld and sand it flush with a block of wood and some 300/600 grit. GD

Both the price, and the retard behind the counter are SO wrong. They are installed DRY (per FSM). They are metal/graphite gaskets similar in design to head gaskets. DO NOT USE ANY SEALANT. You will ruin their sealing power. I can't tell you how many of these I've installed because some idiot used the aftermarket cardboard ones, torqued them way too much, or used silicone on them, etc. I learned the hard way by having the aftermarket ones (Fel-Pro even) blow out or leak on me. DRY, 12 ft/lbs, clean surfaces, clean bolts, chase threads. That is the only sure way. My dealer charges about $3.65 each for them. GD

I've heard figures upward of 40 or more for the EJ15's in the Impreza coupes found in parts of europe. Wish we got those here. With crap like the Prius on the road you would think it would make sense - can't possibly be any slower than the Prius anyway GD

The EGR pipe is threaded into the head and the manifold. You will have to undo that to pull up the manifold. It's easiest to just undo the side the threads into the head as it will be easier to lift the manifold, and it will be easier to line up the threads when you reinstall it. Make sure you line it up and get the threads started before you lock down the manifold to the heads as otherwise it will be a real biotch. GD

Probably would have been cheaper to hit the deer. Next time jerk the wheel and e-brake so you smack the vermin with the side so they don't come up over the hood. GD

You can drive it - as long as it's not leaking coolant. Be careful about the bolts - they like to snap off. Use anti-seize. Wire wheel the mating surfaces, no sealants, dealer only for the gaskets, and 12 ft/lbs on the (clean, chased thread) bolts. GD

Well - the sunroof should be fairly easy to replace assuming you can find one. Pull down the headliner and it should be obvious... The rear hatch glass is a bit more involved - for one thing the rear defroster is attached to it so there is wireing involved. It's not going to be fun - easier to just replace the entire hatch. Strangely enough I think I have an EA82 wagon hatch in my parts right now. Assuming it hasn't gone to the crusher - but I'm pretty sure it's back by the shed. Complete with glass. It's silver. From a 92 Loyale. I would part with it for a rack of Rolling Rock if you are interested . Might even be persuaded to help install it. GD

Sounds like a stuck valve. Could have stuck open or something for a short time. How long was it not run? GD

Here's a section from an 84 FSM. The procedure is similar for all Subaru manual transaxles - this just happens to be what I have on hand at the moment. It's NOT something you want to have to do unless you are rebuilding the transmission on a bench. Here's the link to a larger version if you actually want to read it : http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/preload_big.jpg GD

Lots of manual tranny's (including FWD's with integrated diffs) now call for ATF. What do you think automatics use for their gears? It shouldn't hurt it much at all really. Subaru ran ATF in the manual tranny for the Justy LSR they took to Bonneville.... It's got lower gear resistance. Makes syncro's work really smooth too. It may shorten the life of the tranny a small amount - but automatics generally have a lifespan of 250k to 300k while manuals often last 500k or more. It's not a huge difference especially if it was only run with ATF for a portion of it's lifetime. GD

Those retainers do set the front diff preload and need to be marked as to their orientation and set back EXACTLY the same when doing those seals. Without splitting the case there is no way to properly set that preload so it's critical that you put them back exactly where you found them after doing the seals. If you don't you'll ruin the front diff. These change the orientation of the ring gear and pinion inside the front diff - it is critical that they mesh completely and properly or both will be destroyed in short order. Make sure you really need those seals and the grease button hasn't popped free from the inside of the DOJ cup. You could be seeing CV grease and not gear oil. At any rate those seals rarely fail. GD

Probably the CTS - the gear changes are because the ECU will kick up the idle speed when the car is moving vs. when it thinks it's coasting or stopped. It helps with clutch wear to keep the idle higher durring gear changes. This is common on fuel injection systems. Pay more attention to the difference in hot idle (neutral, car parked) as that is a better indicator. The ECU will eventually throw a code if the CTS gets very bad, but it's difficult for the engine to "know" that the CTS is bad because that's it's only clue for engine temp, and it could just be REALLY cold outside as far as it knows. It will err. on the side of not thowing a code so as to not cause uneccesary concern on the part of the driver A check with the dealer diagnostic computer would probably reveal the problem immediately as they are much more accurate about such anomolous readings. GD