GeneralDisorder

EJ22 blocks don't crack. Heads are cheap used, and also rarely fail. Even should one be bad (highly unlikely) it would only be about $75 for good used one. GD

The damage was done when those parts failed and had to be replaced (last week) because of FAILURE, rather than regular maintenance. GD

Buy the tools - $200 at most plus the parts. Still saving money and you'll have the tools next time.... Having never done it is a poor excuse - I hadn't ever done one the first time either GD

I would assume: 1. 130k - either the T-belt interval was entirely missed back at ~120k, or the water pump/idler/etc wasn't replaced as called for at that time - or inferior parts were used. 2. Subsequent failure of one or more of the aforementioned components caused a severe overheat. 3. Blown head gasket(s). GD

Head gaskets are easy - shouldn't take more than half a day on an EJ22. GD

Actually I think it's just that they didn't start offering that warrantee till around then. GD

Got an EA82 timing belt kit from them off ebay a couple weeks ago - good (fast) shipping and excelent price. I didn't have any problems with my small order. GD

Try disconnecting your O2 sensor for a while..... Does it do this while cold or warmed up? Any difference between the two? Clean your MAF, and check operation of the TPS using an analog meter. Hard starting - you have the ECU's start signal wired into the ignition switch harness? GD

Subaru power steering pumps are extremely tough - it's a rare, rare thing to see one fail. I had a discussion about it with the dealer once and they agreed - they almost never see pumps fail and he said he couldn't remember the last time a rack failed. I wouldn't worry about a used pump - if yours is bad it's probably just a fluke. GD

My local yard does not puncture the tanks - they remove them (to drain the contents) and set them in the back of the car. So they are ripe for the picking. I'm not sure on the price, but even with shipping it can't be anywhere near $400.... the only difficulty is finding a Imp tank - mostly I see 96 and older Legacy's but I have seen a few Imps from time to time. I'm going to one, maybe two yards tommorow and I'll report what I see. GD

Somoene else pointed out that the seatbelt warrantee only extends back to like 95 or 96 or something. At any rate it's a pain to deal with dealers on stuff like that. Most are less than helpful. GD

http://www.discountimportparts.com/ GD

Reliable really isn't the word of the day when it comes to EA82T's. They need a nanny and are tempermental. Biggest problems with them is the cooling system, the messy vacuum systems, and the primitive fuel injection. It is, afterall, a 20+ year old turbo car.... I would bet the jeep is more reliable. Oh, and the mileage is probably about the same as your jeep - right around 18 to 22 with the EA82T. Low comp. and the small turbo spools quite easily. GD

All the parts were in stock, and they are local to me so I had the parts in 1/2 hour. Atsugi (Paraut) OEM water pump: $52.00 Upper and lower smooth idlers (GMB): $46.00 ($23.00 each) Cogged idler (GMB): $24.00 Tensioner roller (GMB): $34.00 Timing belt (OEM Japan): $29.00 A/C accesory belt: $7.50 PS, and Alternator belt: $10.00 Antifreeze: $8.97 Total: $211.47 I didn't replace the hydrualic tensioner as they generally don't wear out on the EJ22's, and mine was at 132k. If I had wanted it, it would have been another $97. I didn't do the cam and crank seals either as they didn't show evidence of leakage - they are cheap and I normally do them but each engine is individual and this one seemed so well maintained that I didn't bother. I am counting the accesory belts and the antifreeze in that total though - which aren't technically part of the "timing belt" job. GD

You can't use the 4 speed on an 85. It's electronically controlled and requires interface with a fuel injected engine. Swap it over to a manual - it's pretty easy on the EA82's. GD

Part of the problem may be the short drive. This contributes to acidic oil, and the engine never reaches operating temp. It's probably tearing up the valve stem seals. But a leakdown test should tell you for sure. GD

No need - the lock code is printed right on the passenger side lock tumbler. GD

I just did mine and it didn't even cost $200 for everything. OEM parts too. Lookup Discount Import Parts here in Oregon - they do mail order I'm sure. VERY excelent parts and prices. GD

I've never replaced one from bearing failure either. I would say that I've replaced the majority from worn out brushes and the rest from bad rectifiers or voltage regulators. The bearings are TOUGH, and even having the belts extremely tight rarely kills them. GD

You need to ask them if it's the full kit, or just the CC "unit" (computer). My guess is that it's just the unit and you would need the steering wheel, actuator, clutch and brake switches, and maybe a few relays and stuff. Probably NOT a simple plug and play. If it were, then why would you bother making it an option to reduce the cost of the car? The wiring might be there, but you will likely find that nothing else related to the system is installed - that's where the cost savings for the manufacturer are passed on to the consumer that doesn't want/need that feature. GD

The ECU senses the crank sensor, but not the cam sensor - it thinks the sensor is broken because it doesn't see the cam turning. That's the most likely scenario anyway. It's possible that the cam sensor went out, but WAY more likely given his mileage that the belt went. GD

Stainless steel hose clamps. Get the German ones with the rounded edges if you can - they make them in 1/4" width for stuff like the turbo intake hoses on the Audi's, etc. Pull the axle off the tranny, dissasemble the inner joint and slide on your new boots. Shouldn't take more than an hour total. I can do a straight axle swap in about 20 to 30 minutes without boot changes. GD

I've never had any luck with trying to flush poorly circulating heater cores. Replace it and have REAL heat. It's not that bad of a job and one that you will feel good about doing once you have done it - being able to completely clean all the duct work and replace ageing foam seals is worth the effort if the car is nice. If the car is crap get one of those cigarette lighter heaters or set the passenger seat on fire Obtain a whole heater core unit and it's box from a junk yard car - this way you can have it all prepped and ready to go with the new core before you start. Often a used core from a vehicle that has had regular coolant changes is plenty good enough too - at least I've done it several times to good effect. A lot cheaper than a new core too. GD

Rislone and ATF are basically the same thing. Both will coat (not clean - transmissions don't have deposits or varnish) the syncros and mask the problem for a while. But the Redline Lightweight Shockproof will do the job of real gear oil AND make the syncro's work. It's real good stuff. GD

Interval for the belt is 60k, so if it were done at 120 then you have 50 on it. If it were done pre-emptively at 110 or 115 you would be approaching the lifespan of the belt right now. I would definately take the 5 minutes to remove the outer belt covers and make sure the belt is turning and the cams are turning when you crank it. GD