GeneralDisorder

1 or 2 degrees would not cause the hessitation you describe. Sounds like the carb isn't set up right. A leak near the base or throttle shafts can cause hessitation like that, or jetting issues. Perhaps the accelerator pump jet isn't the right size. Check all the jetting, check the float setting, and check for leaks - especially around the base and throttle shafts. I've set up over a dozen Weber's on EA81's and EA82's. Improper timing can cause a lot of things - including deiseling on shutdown (along with idle speed), but a few degrees will not cause hessitation like that. GD

Yeah - being tall sucks. I am 6' 2", and I had to put in lower seats than stock to fit comfortably in my Brat. But those do look nice and keister heaters are neato. I might look for a set of those for my Legacy! GD

Sounds like something is screwy inside the slutch - could be the fork - could be the release bearing froze and wore through the pressure plate.... etc. Have to pull the engine or tranny to see. GD

The splined shaft shouldn't have much grease on it. It would be thrown off and get into the disc as it spins. Could some rust have formed to lock the disc to the PP and the flywheel? I would inspect the PP very carefully and possibly consider replaceing it. GD

Sounds like the accelerator pump isn't working. But hessitation like that could be a lot of things. GD

Belts rarely show any wear before failure. They always look "great" till they snap in half. It's not the rubber that fails - it's the internal wire's that hold the rubber together. GD

I seem to recall something about the legacy turbo's not haveing a bleeder port for the top of the radiator?? Anyway a lot of folks pour the coolant into the upper radiator hose to back fill the engine and then fill the radiator. You could fill the heater core this way as well to make sure each part of the cooling system is nearly full before tightening it all up. On the non-turbo radiators there's a plastic air-bleed that is removed from the top of the radiator on the passenger side (near the upper hose) to facilitate air removal while filling..... The closed-deck nature of the EJ22T block makes them harder to fill as the coolant passages are smaller. GD

Yeah - if the transfer clutch pack is damaged to any real degree it may never move again. Once those go out the AT's won't move. The clutch plates aren't meant to be coated in anything but ATF. GD

As I said - the tight, NEW axle is making something else more pronounced. Possibly bearings sugested by the previous poster. Have to do some digging to figure it out probably. GD

The Auto's also have a lot more going on with their version of "AWD" than the manuals do. They have a solenoid that sends more or less power to the rear end. In normal conditions I beleive the auto's are 80 or 90% to the front wheels. It takes intervention from the transmission computer to make them hook up at 50/50. But it probably IS your tires. Fishtailing signifiys you have plenty of power to the rear end but your tires can't bite off enough traction. GD

Just get a length of 5/8 heater core hose. You don't need the specific (expensive) hose from the dealer. If it's got really sharp bends then cut the bend you need from the old hose and use a few coupler's. There is no reason to spend money on an evap hose like that. Looking at the pics.... might not be 5/8".... but whatever - just get the correct size fuel line or heater core hose - either are good generic replacements for that kind of thing. GD

Not exactly. They share nothing in common. The Loyale is the EA series where the Legacy was the entirely new EJ series. Gen 1 legacy looks a lot like the old Camry's actually. GD

Should be - they are on the EA81's as they were required in Austrailia I beleive. GD

Replace the pump, they are known to warp in some cases and cause repeated failure of that gasket. GD

You wouldn't be crushed (I've towed a car with no front axles - the wheel is held on by the caliper and brakes), but you would never get the axle out as the car is being supported by the wheel which is attached to the rotor. The axle has downward pressure being applied to it through the knuckle and bearings, and upward pressure being applied through the wheel and rotor. The binding action between the two would never allow it to move. GD

I tend to dissagree - I've done a number of FWD transverse transmissions and clutches, and I've always just pulled the tranny - both auto and manual. Usually a lot less to disconnect and once you support the engine either from above or with a jack, and then pull the axles the tranny will just drop out. GD

And to the original poster: Under NO circumstances, should you use a GM single wire alt. The Subaru wireing harness is not set up for it, and it will run like poo. GD

That's a huge waste of money as the XT6 alt is only 90 amp, and is VERY expensive. A Nissan Maxima alt is the same casing (IE: bolt in), same power rating, and cheap. GD

I sometimes wear nitrile gloves, and sometimes my leather "mechanic" gloves. Depends on how nasty the job is. For fine work I often have to remove them anyway. GD

Personally I would pull the dash. But I hate doing things half-a$$ed. I've done the pull-dash method and it's not as hard as it looks. Takes about 4 to 6 hours total if you have the new core handy. Note that leaks are sometimes from the core, and sometimes from the heater control valve. The valve is a dealer only part ~$130 No one here will reccomend the leak-stop stuff. The way the cooling systems on subarus are set up it always causes more problems than it solves. Even if it did stop the leak it would clog the core completely and you would have no leak, but no heat either. Also make sure it's coolant and not a leaky windshield - EA81's are known for both. GD

You should check the jetting as it probably won't be correct. EA81/EA82 use different adaptors. Short filter on EA81's (or you can cut out part of the hood cross-bar to clear the larger filter), but the filter you have will work for an EA82. You'll want to remove that silly universal throttle cam and install the one from the Hitachi so the stock cable will work. There's several ways of doing the cable depending on EA81 or EA82 and if you want it installed backwards or not.... GD

The Subaru studs seem to work fine for me and everyone I know that's done it. They don't pull through the rim or anything if that's what you mean. Very solid and mine take quite a bit of puhishment. On my lifted wagon I drilled brand new Chevy white spoke wagon rims ($27 each - brand new) over to 4 lug. It's nice having the new powder coated rims - easy to wash the mud off. GD

Ouch - yeah I would buy an extra set of trailing arms and have them pre-loaded if I lived in a region like that..... actually I wouldn't drive anything I couldn't get parts for in the local yards, so probably wouldn't ever have that problem. If I lived in a "soobless" region it would likely be Toyota's for me. GD

That's the whole bearing from Autozone - no need for extra parts. If you buy the correct socket you won't deform the retainer ring nut, and they come off easily with an impact (usually). I've always used the old outer bearing to pound out the race on the three peice units. Older bearings are a one peice affair, and newer ones are a three peice unit..... either way it's not difficult and shouldn't cost all that much more than the price of the bearings and the right tools. GD

Yep - you got the idea. You use the 6 lug rim as a template. Knock out two studs on the hub/drum, and bolt it to the rim. Then mark the hub/drum through the other 4 holes in the rim. Simple. Center punch, drill, pound in 4 studs. Done. Some grinding on the backside where the stud seats might be needed too, but people have used either longer studs, or not bothered and it doesn't seem to matter a whole lot. Drilling holes in the wheels to make them 4 lug is fine too, but obviously doesn't work for alloys. I have done both, and both work well even for large tires - although if you get into the 30"+ tire range (transfer case lift, etc) then I would go with the 6 lug as there are cases where people have sheered off 4 lug rims with really huge tires. GD