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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder
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1 or 2 degrees would not cause the hessitation you describe. Sounds like the carb isn't set up right. A leak near the base or throttle shafts can cause hessitation like that, or jetting issues. Perhaps the accelerator pump jet isn't the right size. Check all the jetting, check the float setting, and check for leaks - especially around the base and throttle shafts. I've set up over a dozen Weber's on EA81's and EA82's. Improper timing can cause a lot of things - including deiseling on shutdown (along with idle speed), but a few degrees will not cause hessitation like that. GD
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wierd clutch issue need help please!
GeneralDisorder replied to glkiller's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
The splined shaft shouldn't have much grease on it. It would be thrown off and get into the disc as it spins. Could some rust have formed to lock the disc to the PP and the flywheel? I would inspect the PP very carefully and possibly consider replaceing it. GD -
Sounds like the accelerator pump isn't working. But hessitation like that could be a lot of things. GD
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Belts rarely show any wear before failure. They always look "great" till they snap in half. It's not the rubber that fails - it's the internal wire's that hold the rubber together. GD
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I seem to recall something about the legacy turbo's not haveing a bleeder port for the top of the radiator?? Anyway a lot of folks pour the coolant into the upper radiator hose to back fill the engine and then fill the radiator. You could fill the heater core this way as well to make sure each part of the cooling system is nearly full before tightening it all up. On the non-turbo radiators there's a plastic air-bleed that is removed from the top of the radiator on the passenger side (near the upper hose) to facilitate air removal while filling..... The closed-deck nature of the EJ22T block makes them harder to fill as the coolant passages are smaller. GD
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Vibration after GCK axles install
GeneralDisorder replied to Frank B's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
As I said - the tight, NEW axle is making something else more pronounced. Possibly bearings sugested by the previous poster. Have to do some digging to figure it out probably. GD -
The Auto's also have a lot more going on with their version of "AWD" than the manuals do. They have a solenoid that sends more or less power to the rear end. In normal conditions I beleive the auto's are 80 or 90% to the front wheels. It takes intervention from the transmission computer to make them hook up at 50/50. But it probably IS your tires. Fishtailing signifiys you have plenty of power to the rear end but your tires can't bite off enough traction. GD
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Just get a length of 5/8 heater core hose. You don't need the specific (expensive) hose from the dealer. If it's got really sharp bends then cut the bend you need from the old hose and use a few coupler's. There is no reason to spend money on an evap hose like that. Looking at the pics.... might not be 5/8".... but whatever - just get the correct size fuel line or heater core hose - either are good generic replacements for that kind of thing. GD
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Mickey mouse gasket woes
GeneralDisorder replied to ivantruckman's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Replace the pump, they are known to warp in some cases and cause repeated failure of that gasket. GD -
You wouldn't be crushed (I've towed a car with no front axles - the wheel is held on by the caliper and brakes), but you would never get the axle out as the car is being supported by the wheel which is attached to the rotor. The axle has downward pressure being applied to it through the knuckle and bearings, and upward pressure being applied through the wheel and rotor. The binding action between the two would never allow it to move. GD
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FWD Justy Trans Removal
GeneralDisorder replied to RallyKeith's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I tend to dissagree - I've done a number of FWD transverse transmissions and clutches, and I've always just pulled the tranny - both auto and manual. Usually a lot less to disconnect and once you support the engine either from above or with a jack, and then pull the axles the tranny will just drop out. GD -
100 amp alternator Upgrade?
GeneralDisorder replied to xoomer's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
And to the original poster: Under NO circumstances, should you use a GM single wire alt. The Subaru wireing harness is not set up for it, and it will run like poo. GD -
100 amp alternator Upgrade?
GeneralDisorder replied to xoomer's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
That's a huge waste of money as the XT6 alt is only 90 amp, and is VERY expensive. A Nissan Maxima alt is the same casing (IE: bolt in), same power rating, and cheap. GD -
Bucky Is On His Way 2 His New Home
GeneralDisorder replied to Bucky92's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I sometimes wear nitrile gloves, and sometimes my leather "mechanic" gloves. Depends on how nasty the job is. For fine work I often have to remove them anyway. GD -
heater core question
GeneralDisorder replied to desdinova's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Personally I would pull the dash. But I hate doing things half-a$$ed. I've done the pull-dash method and it's not as hard as it looks. Takes about 4 to 6 hours total if you have the new core handy. Note that leaks are sometimes from the core, and sometimes from the heater control valve. The valve is a dealer only part ~$130 No one here will reccomend the leak-stop stuff. The way the cooling systems on subarus are set up it always causes more problems than it solves. Even if it did stop the leak it would clog the core completely and you would have no leak, but no heat either. Also make sure it's coolant and not a leaky windshield - EA81's are known for both. GD -
i got my WEBER :)
GeneralDisorder replied to subaruguru's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
You should check the jetting as it probably won't be correct. EA81/EA82 use different adaptors. Short filter on EA81's (or you can cut out part of the hood cross-bar to clear the larger filter), but the filter you have will work for an EA82. You'll want to remove that silly universal throttle cam and install the one from the Hitachi so the stock cable will work. There's several ways of doing the cable depending on EA81 or EA82 and if you want it installed backwards or not.... GD -
EA82 wheel options
GeneralDisorder replied to paulpicard's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
The Subaru studs seem to work fine for me and everyone I know that's done it. They don't pull through the rim or anything if that's what you mean. Very solid and mine take quite a bit of puhishment. On my lifted wagon I drilled brand new Chevy white spoke wagon rims ($27 each - brand new) over to 4 lug. It's nice having the new powder coated rims - easy to wash the mud off. GD -
wheel bearing question
GeneralDisorder replied to ahole's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Ouch - yeah I would buy an extra set of trailing arms and have them pre-loaded if I lived in a region like that..... actually I wouldn't drive anything I couldn't get parts for in the local yards, so probably wouldn't ever have that problem. If I lived in a "soobless" region it would likely be Toyota's for me. GD -
wheel bearing question
GeneralDisorder replied to ahole's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
That's the whole bearing from Autozone - no need for extra parts. If you buy the correct socket you won't deform the retainer ring nut, and they come off easily with an impact (usually). I've always used the old outer bearing to pound out the race on the three peice units. Older bearings are a one peice affair, and newer ones are a three peice unit..... either way it's not difficult and shouldn't cost all that much more than the price of the bearings and the right tools. GD -
EA82 wheel options
GeneralDisorder replied to paulpicard's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Yep - you got the idea. You use the 6 lug rim as a template. Knock out two studs on the hub/drum, and bolt it to the rim. Then mark the hub/drum through the other 4 holes in the rim. Simple. Center punch, drill, pound in 4 studs. Done. Some grinding on the backside where the stud seats might be needed too, but people have used either longer studs, or not bothered and it doesn't seem to matter a whole lot. Drilling holes in the wheels to make them 4 lug is fine too, but obviously doesn't work for alloys. I have done both, and both work well even for large tires - although if you get into the 30"+ tire range (transfer case lift, etc) then I would go with the 6 lug as there are cases where people have sheered off 4 lug rims with really huge tires. GD