GeneralDisorder

I've since found that this is only true for *some* 5200's. They were made by Holley under license from Weber and are roughly a copy of the DFV series carb with added emmissions equipment and sometimes smaller venturi's (depending on year and model they were used on). They are a crap shoot IMO and are only worth bothering with if you know how to rebuild one and get it cheap. A Weber can be had and installed (if you rebuild it yourself and buy the adaptor plate) for well under $200. But SPFI can be comparibly cheap if you have a decent source for parts. GD

That's a Hitachi - looks bone stock for an 87 Hatch. Should be a DCP-308 variant (30/28). Carter-Weber's are single barrel and are completely unlike the one pictured. Weber's (DGV, DFV, Holley 5200) are aftermarket only. GD

So my friend calls me one day and asks if I can help "fix" his wife's 200x Jag.... Apparently with this model (V8) it's got somewhat of a design defficiency - if you don't drive it far enough or run the engine long enough, the fuel from the cold-enrichment will wash all the oil down the cylinder walls and the engine will lose all compression and can't be started. No kidding. So the fix? We had to pull each and every plug (coil over plug, and lots of cowling bits) and dump 2 ounces of oil down each cylinder to reseal the rings - then crank that sucker for like 10 minutes before it finally kicked over and then smoked for 20 minutes as it burned off the oil . Yep - that's the reccomended fix from the jag shop. Who designs crap like this?? So no - I wouldn't own one. Especially with their reputation - even on recent models, and the way they basically rebaged the Taurus with a Haldex AWD add on. Crap. On the same jag that we had the sealing issue with it blew a rear wheel bearing around the same time - 36,000 miles on it. Nice interior - poorly designed mechanicals. GD

If you remove the bleeder screw on the caliper completely it WILL screw back in. You have fluid pressure holding the piston out. I've had to deal with this many times. You will make a mess and you will have to bleed the system, but new fluid is better than old - brake fluid absorbs moisture over time and should be changed at least every two years anyway. GD

Check the passenger side timing belt, and check that the screw didn't fall out of the distributor rotor under the cap (both common). Otherwise it may be the pump, or just air in the lines and you need to crank it. Try holding the pedal all the way to the floor while cranking - this will put the ECU into flood clear mode in case you have somehow flooded the engine . Anyway - those are my first thoughts. GD

See here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=920674&highlight=%22Uncle+Scotty%27s%22+cocktail Many folks swear by it. The consensus seems to be that the key ingredient is the Redline Lightweigh Shockproof - the others are mostly to improve the anti-wear properties for the front diff. Some folks report even better results with 3 quarts of RLS and top the rest off with Motul or Castrol. GD

The LeCar was just the North American Renault 5... which wasn't a bad vehicle at all. The 5 turbo's were sucesseful rally cars actually. The Yugo wasn't all bad either - based on a Fiat 127. It was basically all italian in design and was a very simple and rugged vehicle. The difficulty was partially a lack of proper quality control in the assembly process, and a complete lack of vehicular knowledge on the part of the US consumer. When properly gone through and maintained the yugo is essencially a Fiat 127 and thus shares it's reliability in large part. It was, however, a complete disaster from a marketing standpoint. GD

Seriously - just do the job yourself. You have this board to assist, and the experience will prove invaluable. Part of the money you save will buy the tools to do the job, and the learning experience will empower you in a way you have probably yet to experience with car ownership. Man up and turn a wrench or two. Too many people whine about this stuff when it's really quite easy. Ask around this board and legacycentral - there's probably a few folks in your area that will drop by and give you hand for a few beers. A friend of mine who had never turned a wrench before finally decided to save some money a few years ago and asked me to assist him with a timing belt change on his new-to-him '98 Audi A4. Well 4 years later and he's empowered so much that with only guidance from me he's accomplished a whole mess of things to his new '01 twin turbo A6 - timing belt, water pump, aux electric water pump, valve cover gaskets, cam tensioner gaskets, engine mounts, suspension bushings, tranny flush, etc, etc. GD

I've done a dozen or more HG's with my $10 HF wrench - never had one blow yet. GD

Any progress on the part numbers? GD

++1. Used them many times - excelent work and fast. There's no shortage of them in the JY - buy a used one and throw it in while the other is being rebuilt. You (probably - I don't KNOW that you don't have a machine shop ) can't do the bushings yourself. They are really tricky and require machining ability to remove the old ones (unlike EA82 FI disty's). GD

Well - that link I posted INCLUDES the 15 lb lightweight flywheel and the stage 1 Exedy clutch set.... but I'm still open to sugestions. Part numbers would be great! GD

GD

So is this going to work for my application? http://importimageonline.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_31_95&products_id=400&osCsid=04993a9e041e9cb7037f60c5d707f10f GD

Why not run MS? It can handle up to ten cylinders. GD

Your oil pressure shouldn't be that low, but that could be the sender too. I wouldn't worry about the PCV, but a compression test wouldn't be a bad idea. It's sad that EA82T's stink on ice, but thus is the way of the world :-\. Swap in an EJ22 - you won't regret it. The MPFI system isn't a primitive pile of junk, and they can hold fluids and gaskets - amazing! GD

They are out of stock - have been for a while now unfortunately. GD

4WD will not be a 5 speed. If it's 4WD then it's a 4 speed single range (DL) or dual range (GL). 2WD Hatch would have a 5 speed (GL, DL) or a 4 speed (STD). Check for play in the distributor shaft, and for rust on the whole car. Especially check the radiator, upper and lower hoses, and heater core hoses - all of which should be replaced if there's any evidence of corrosion in the system. Assuming it's a 4 speed D/R, then when you drive it see how tight the linkage is - if it's loose and barely wants to find reverse then you may be looking at a new transmission eventually. Also see how "crunchy" 2nd and 3rd gear are - the four speeds suffer from 3rd gear syncro failure, and also from premature shift dog failure (mostly reverse) due to poorly maintained linkage bushings. Have a look at the transmission mounts - they are often soft and crappy, and aren't cheap - about $90 for both at the dealer. Check out the exhaust - they tend to rust out before anything else on the rig. GD

That's normal for the crankcase to be under pressure like that. Blowby gases are forced through the PCV and burnt. Looks normal to me. GD

It's hard to say for sure, but the regular EJ22 pumps may be the same (or adequate). I would ask over at legacycentral - there's folks there that have swapped T's into NA cars and they will know if the NA pump is compatible or not. GD

Kennedy engineering does it for the VW swaps - you send em your pan and pickup tube. So yes it can be done. GD

Probably leaking at the rack - the pumps rarely fail. Just swap out the whole rack. GD

If I were closer I would help you out - you should lookup some of the Medford crew - find Adam or Tony. I think Adam may still be out of country with the national guard but Tony (Soobme) might be around. I hear he's into Nissan's or something now but he's a real, real good guy and could at least point you in the right direction if not actually assist you with the job. Might even end up with a roll bar or brush guard or something as he's a good fabricator. GD

Did you make SURE the lifters went back into their same locations? If not you may have better luck just replacing them with the new ones. GD

Actually the rear rotors are usually in good shape - sacrificial pads, and the minimal 30% braking done by rears in general makes them generally wear for a very long time. The backing plates are often rusted to peices and near impossible to get off though. GD