GeneralDisorder

Just drill your hubs for 6 lug Chevy. It's not like it's difficult - you need 8 studs from either the JY or the parts store, a center punch and a drill. 6x5.5" rims are everywhere - Toyota, Mazda, GM.... there's TONS of them. Stock 15" Toyota truck rims have the correct offset, as do many Mazda truck rims. GD

Timken's are $49.99 from Autozone. GD

It's not the accuracy of the sensors, it's the solder joints on the digi-dash circuit boards. Just like the sketchy EA82 clocks, the solder they used had a lot of flux and they appear to have not been heated enough to burn it off. The joints crack away from the board and the connection is crappy. Different voltages through the bad connections result in different readings as the amount of resistance from the poor connection changes the voltage drop across the circuit. GD

Install an 86+ lever if you don't like it. Save the 85 lever though - they are desireable. GD

Try adjusting the clutch and brake switches, and in your case you may need to properly hook up those switches or install them if the pedal assembly you used does not have them as you swapped from auto to manual. I would be very surprised if your problems are not related directly to your transmission swap being incomplete electrically (with regard to the CC). Frankly it might be easier to install an aftermarket CC kit and just use the existing dealer add-on stalk. At least that way you would have detailed wireing diagrams. GD

The Justy is transverse, and uses an inline 3 cylinder. Conceptually identical to the Suzuki Swift/Geo Metro, but shares no parts with either as it was designed and built by Fuji. Justy parts (including the transmission) will only fit other Justy's. GD

Flywheel bolt pattern is different, and the problem you run into is that there was never a 225mm flywheel made for the EA71..... so any combo's used would either have to redrill an EA81 flywheel to match, or use 200mm clutch parts. The "fat-case" (hydro lifter, side starter) EA71 I believe does have the same bolt pattern as the EA81 so if you happen to have one of those (rare) you should be able to use any EA81/EA82 flywheel and clutch combination. To use the EA82 pressure plate with an EA81 trans you need the Nissan truck release bearing (so I'm told). GD

1. Take off dust covers 2. Cut open cat 3. Puch out contents with screwdriver 4. Weld up opening. 5. Replace dust covers 6. Pocket remaining $400 It will still pass if it's tuned properly, and no one will be able to tell with the dust covers it place. GD

You have the same pump fuel we have - the octane rating is calculated differently - thus the differences in the numbers. Your 100 is our 94(ish). Here in the US we average the RON and MON numbers (R + M)/ 2. In AUS and Europe they only report the RON, which is always the higher of the two. There is, sadly, no difference in the performance of the two fuels. Read here for basic differences: http://www.torquecars.com/articles/fuel-octane-ratings.php GD

Belt should be the same as a non-AC, non-PS DL EA82. You didn't get those there? Anyway - should be the same belt used by the EA81's for the Alternator. GD

Well - I don't wish to give offense when I say that your car is a hard sell. It's a 92, yes - but to the members here it might as well be an 89 because it's not a Legacy. 90 to 94 Loyale's were stripped down to make way for the flagship Legacy models - so it's less desireable than a fully equipped 89 GL.... It's not 4WD. It's not unbeleivably low mileage, although it's got another 80k or more in it most likely (drivetrain wise). It's got an unknown electrical/fuel injection issue that is going to ultimately take someone throwing parts at to fix (which may be difficult to source in your area). The SPFI can be a bastard to troubleshoot at times. If you fix the problem, I would say try to sell it on craigslist, and make sure the listing comes up under lots of keywords besides Subaru and Loyale. Your best bet is to sell it to someone that just needs transportation not a Subaru "enthusiast" as it's totally not what people here look for. I'm not trying to be mean.... but you did ask so there it is GD

My local Autozone was the same way - I just said "no thanks" and ordered them online instead. They were clueless and didn't care to find out the reason for the price difference or match the price for me. Nice guys.... GD

Stab in the dark here, but you should definately check your Air Injection valves, the AIS (Air Injection System) uses passive "suck" valves with a reed inside. When the reed breaks raw exhaust is allowed into the intake, and it will melt the plastic "silencers" used to muffle the sound of the system. This plastic then gets sucked into the carb and jams up the throttle plates and fuel passages. GD

That's normal - the hub anchors the outer bearing when it's together. Without the hub there's nothing holding the outer bearing to it's race. You don't need rear wheel bearings. GD

You need to post in "New Generation" - this part of the forum is not for Legacy's of any vintage. There is no low-oil warning on any Subaru - even '08's. I haven't seen any japanese car with one. Some German stuff.... Your CEL may not even be related to the low oil - pull the codes and see. Any Autozone or other parts store should do it for free. Stopping the leak (which may only be part of the oil consumption equation) will involve pulling the pan and replacing that seal. Not difficult if you have an afternoon and minimal mechanical skills. GD

Try this first: http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=215795 GD

Really tight new axles will often make other issues more pronounced - like bad transmission mounts or engine mounts. If the mounts suck the tight axle may be moving the whole tranny. GD

The EJ water pump gaskets are rubber coated metal - I wouldn't use anything on them other than a torque wrench. 5,000 on my water pump install and no leaks with the OEM gasket installed dry (per FSM). The pump itself will fail long before that gasket does. Front main is a good idea anytime you have the belt off - they are cheap. GD

It would work. The only sticky parts would be: 1. The wireing (relativley easy unless the 86 is FI) - reverse lights, and 4WD indicators are backwards. 2. The linkage (also relatively easy - it's the reverse of the 5 speed EA81 swap). It can be made to look stock by shortening the 4WD lever by about 1" and mounting the back portion of the 5 speed's "linkage tray" where the pivot for the 4WD lever is located directlt to the underside (fabrication again, but not real difficult). 3. The transmission cross-member (have to fab something as it will be completely different - medium difficulty - you can look at my write up on using 5 speed mounts on my EA81 for ideas [not the same though] - http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/4speed_mounts.html). 4. Exhaust hanger bracket (little welding - not much problem - doesn't have to be pretty, so I'll say this is an "easy") 5. Clutch will have to be the EA82 flywheel resurfaced to the EA81 pressure plate step, EA81 pressure plate, and EA81 disc. OR you could use the EA82 pressure plate, EA81 disc, and fit a Nissan 720 truck release bearing to the EA81 bearing holder - so you have options. 6. Use the 4 speed single peice driveline. GD

Yeah - that's INSANE. Headgaskets (Fel-Pro is the best) should run no more than $100 for the complete head SET (valve covers, manifold gaskets, etc). You could get the entire engine gasket set (every gasket in the WHOLE engine) for like $220 from any Fel-Pro dealer - but you don't need those. His head shop is way out of line too. My cylinder head shop (that's all they do is cylinder heads) charges $35 flat rate for all aluminium head resurfacing. They are extremely good at what they do, and are used by all the shops in my area. Up front there's something you should know so you don't get totally hosed. The cracks you WILL find between the valves in the heads are NORMAL. They do not affect the engine, and can't be fixed by welding them - they will crack again in short order. There is an official TSB from Subaru stating these are not to be fixed unless the crack extends into the water jacket - which never happens on N/A engines. It does happen occasionally in the Turbo engines but those heads are physically different and the engines are under a lot more stress. DO NOT HAVE THE HEADS WELDED - no matter what your mechanic or anyone else says. Source used heads if there is evidence of exhaust port cracks. GD

Most modern roads don't have near as much of a crown. Alignment has had to change to keep up with road construction techniques. Modern graded roads and low pressure tires have led factory alignments to change from around 3 degrees positive camber on front wheels to around 1 degree in the 80's and 90's and even less in more modern vehicles. His may be excessive, and the dealer dismissed him as being a paranoid new owner. You shouldn't have to actively stear it left - it shouldn't require concious movement to correct. But a slight drift to the right is prefered from a safety standpoint - just as consumer cars will always understeer rather than oversteer or zero-steer. GD

HG's: $40 for both (Fel-Pro permatorque's) from Autozone. Intake/Exhaust Man. gaskets: $15 from the dealer. Cam Case o-rings: $6 from the dealer. Milling: $70 ($35 per head - 24 hour turn around, sometimes less) 6.5 hours: 487.50 (at $75/Hr shop time, which is high) That's a bit over $600.... where's the rest going? You already have a new water pump and I'm assuming the rest of the timing setup is kosher or it would have been done by the last shop.... Sounds like a poor deal to me, but a few hours of my weekend isn't worth $75 an hour so perhaps I'm biased. Even dealerships don't charge much over $80/Hr, and he quoted you about $100/Hr unless there's other parts involved (I've done this job [many times], and there shouldn't be). GD

No one really knows the answer to that. Depends on what you want - if you want raw N/A power then you want a solid lifter, big intake valve engine - 83/84 manual tranny model. Less drag on the valve train with solid lifters. If you want easy maintenance and quieter valve train noise then you want the hydro's. In reality either one is fine and the power difference is pretty much negligible between the lifter types. With a Delta cam, EA82 SPFI pistons (9.5:1) and a port and polish you can pull 100 HP out of the EA81 pretty easily using either a Weber or the EA82 SPFI. GD

That's what I've always heard as well. Sounds right to me. I would rather drift out than towards oncomming traffic. GD

No. Hydro lifters came on 83/84 automatics, and all 85+ EA81's. All others were solid lifter and require adjustment every 15,000 miles. In addition, pre-83 engines also had smaller intake valves so the heads don't flow as well. GD