GeneralDisorder

If it were PS then it would make that noise all the time, not just in certain gears under load. It would be loudest at idle while dry-steering. My guess would be the turbo itself - under load is when it will spool, and gears 1 through 3 are high enough in the RPM band to spool that larger turbo. Also accounts nicely for the smoking. Probably on it's way out - sucking oil through the shot bearings and making nasty noises. Typical of turbo failure. GD

GM single wire or remote sensing? Also the stock guages are known for being crappy - the one in my Brat routinely changes voltage when I slap the cluster near it. GD

Lithia Subaru in Oregon City. They stock them as they are the same for the EA82's. GD

Yeah - probably a lot easier to feel and hear the knock with my EA81 - less sound deadening and insulation in the car. GD

True - I meant it gets louder for 5 minutes or less *right* before it blows. . But DANG is it loud. Then you just lose all power (if you are on the freeway doing 70 like I was ). Definately the biggest smoke/steam/fluid experience I've had on a freeway. The whole car was one big cloud of "stuff". I knew what had happened immediately though. GD

Rod knocks in Subaru's end about 95% of the time with the rod exiting the crankcase THROUGH the top of the block. I would tear it down and replace the bearings before it blows and becomes a useless hunk of scrap metal. OTOH, it is only a 1600 and they aren't exactly sought after so it's up to you. Does your friend know what a rod knock sounds like on a soob? It's generally inaudible at idle untill it's about to blow. You can feel and hear the rod knock when you accelerate or put the engine under load. They are rarely heard just idleing unless it's really, really bad and is about to toss. One thing you *can* hear at idle is a bad main bearing. Sounds like a dull thud that you can feel and goes away with higher RPM. Much less danger with a main knock too. I would adjust the valves as solid lifter EA71's can be quite loud and the procedure isn't difficult. GD

This guy? http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=PRODSEARCH&txtSearch=SU-022&btnSearch=GO&Page=1 There's several online retailers that have them. Designed mostly to be used with an impact but with care can be used with a breaker bar or 1/2" ratchet. Nice to have but I think I've only used mine like twice because the soob rear bearings are so brutally rugged. GD

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76990 And while you have the thing apart, pull the oil pump and make sure the bolts that hold the plate to the back of it are tight. They can work loose we are told. It's good practice to remove them and retighten them with locktite. GD

That shouldn't be a problem in practice - the SPFI computer figures fuel from the MAF and the O2 and will compensate for the reduced airflow of the EA81 heads. That's WHY the SPFI is so much more effecient than a carb - because it can and does modify the mixture on the fly depending on engine needs. That's also why you can mod any FI vehicle (to a point - turbo's are anothe story as most NA ECU's can't compensate for manifold pressure going positive) without really changing anything as there will always be some room in the software for changes in airflow. The ECU software is designed in this way largely to compensate for different altitudes and air density in different regions - thus eliminating the "high altitude kit" of the carb days. One ECU for all purposes. The slight differences of the EA81 amount largely to differences in compression and valve timing/size. I would be willing to bet that a port/polish, EA82 SPFI pistons, and a delta cam ground similar to the EA82's you would get near identical numbers across the board. As they sit stock the SPFI is certainly an upgrade on par with the Weber. That's been my experience. GD

One BIG thing to remember about the t-stat's is to ONLY use the Subaru ones. There's a huge difference in quality. After I changed the blown water pump on my 94 (bought it that way) I realized I forgot to buy a new t-stat for it. I boiled the OEM one that was in the car and it still operated flawlessly. No problems and already driven it 1,000 miles. I'll probably change it at the next flush but really the OEM ones are tough as nails and built like tanks. The aftermarket stuff is cheap in the extreem. Air will naturally evacuate the system (should) once it's run but if you fill it with the bleed plug out it should not have any air in it. At least that's my experience with them. I also massage the upper and lower hoses and take my time filling it to insure it's completely air-free. If you need assistance it looks like we are pretty close - I could take a look and offer my opinion. GD

The T-Stat on the EJ's is right under the water pump - on the lower hose. It's easy to access and cheap - you should remove it and boil the T-Stat to see if it opens, then you'll know if it has failed or not. Being that you live in OR your radiator is likely fine (my 94's orginal rad is doing fine) so if it's not the t-stat then it very well could be HG's. At any rate I would stop driving it till you have figured it out - the phase one 2.5's often exhibit HG failure and driving it like this sometimes results in bottom-end failure not long after the HG's are replaced. GD

Turbo: 25 Non: 23 Never know - might not be the axle - could have stripped the splines in the hub. It happens. GD

In order to dup the ECU at ALL times (including durring a D-Check) you must use a 5 watt resistor in the range of the solenoid: 32.7-39.9 ohms. 33.3 or 35 Ohm 5 watt ceramic resistors are commonly availible. Higher or lower than the range may not pop a CEL while in U-Check but it will in D-Check and it will prevent the diagnostic routines from carrying out the full battery of tests and may make it impossible to diagnose some other fualt. GD

My local shop sells retrofit kits for all bulb models starting at $155. Nice kits too. Nothing illegal about em. GD

Strangely enough I just bought a 94 that had similar symtoms after blowing the water pump. The pump more or less seized, engine overheated, and when the owner tried to start it after filling it with coolant (she was going to limp it to a shop a few blocks away) it wouldn't start. The timing belt (which was still perfectly fine) jumped time on the cams because it was dragging over the water pump pulley causing it to jerk the tensioner and stretch the belt enough to hop a few ribs. In my case it would *try* to start but was out of time on both cams and couldn't sustain an idle at all. Sounds very similar to yours - coolant leakage, overheating into the overflow bottle, and the engine's out of time - even one tooth is enough to make it run aweful. I did the whole timing set and water pump and it runs perfect again - couldn't have got a better deal for $750 Easy to verify - pop off the outer belt covers and line up the timing marks. The cams should both be straight up with the crank at 0. BTW - easiest timing belt replacement I've ever done. Easy access, and just a pleasure to work on. If you have done the EA82 belts then this will be like a tropical vacation :cool: GD

There wasn't any cutoff with the stock halogens either. I'm not saying the stock reflectors are great, but you haven't shown either how this razor sharp cutoff is neccesary, or any evidence that they blind anyone (when properly aligned). Suberdave hasn't had any problems - neither with the police, or with people flashing him. And many others have the same experience. As long as you aim the lights away from oncomming traffic they are no more dangerous than the stock halogens that had no real cutoff to begin with. If this was such a huge problem then you would see legislation to ban the sale of "retrofit" kits. GD

You're not listening - I'm not disputing that the effect exists - just that it matters. You can compensate for the fillament being moved by re-aiming the headlights. My point is that this isn't a super-precise environment we are dealing with - it's a 10+ year old car with plastic lenses and a bit of chrome coating to throw light down the road. A few inches here or there doesn't make any difference worth worring about once the headlights are re-aimed properly. Emperical evidence bears this out. What has not been shown is a single case by you, or this stuffy Stern fellow, showing anything you are claiming. I've already shown one example of a respected member here that switched and will not go back he loves them so much. And I could find countless examples like that - that's why a market exists for these things and they aren't $1 on ebay like all the worthless blue bulbs that no one wants. These kits have a market - at their relatively high price point, and that indicates there is actually a demand for them (ostensibly because they work!). GD

He uses many (probably true) allusions to "science" and then claims the drawback is greater than the gain without one single shred of actual real-world data or experimentation. He's doing what is known as "arm chair" science. Any good skeptic (I consider myself one) should be able to point that out. It's all good to postulize about what may or may not happen "if" I do something, but it's not a substitute for actual data based on real lab-condition experiments. I'm not comparing it to anything - the skeptics challenge does not require it. He isn't following the rules of science. He's making claims without any experimention at all - just like those ebay auctions. I can shout anything I like - doesn't make it true - even if it sounds pretty. Here's a thread from one of our own members - he actually took pictures , and likes the results quite a bit: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68913&highlight=HID+conversion GD

Well the guy sells bulbs - what do you expect him to say? Sure there's lots of science behind lighting, but it doesn't always have to be that technical. The differences, while I acknowledge their presence, can, and often are, overstated (ahem - for the purposes of selling stuff for example). It's the "Illuminaphile" gene that you are experienceing - the need to have great volumes of light, and the need to make it perfect no matter what - OCD for lighting. At the end of the day many, many folks are happy with their HID conversions, and while "stern" may claim they are unsafe he doesn't provide any evidence of it. It's easy to sound technical, and to provide all kinds of "science" and claim it applies and that ALL HID conversions are horribly wrong, but frankly that just doesn't seem to be the case emperically. Lots of people claim that recycling isn't wastefull, and that we caused global warming - and they have charts, diagrams, and numbers to back this up. Sounds very convincing till you realize they are full of $hit. GD

I really don't see the problem - they are brighter than the old ones I had, and I can see just fine. I think this is one of those areas that's much like car/home audio. You have people known and "Audiophiles" that can hear and feel things that - strangely enough - no one else can. I'm going to start refering to this type of personality with automotive lighting as an "illuminaphile". The point is to be able to see the road clearly - which the Silverstars do. They may not last terribly long, but to my eyes they are brighter than stock so that makes sense in a weird way. If you get a year out of them that's fine in my eyes - they don't claim to last forever. Once again - I think this is hair splitting. The filiment is close enough, and the reflector is too. Drive enough light to them and they will work fine. The HID's are plenty bright for normal driving, you can re-aim the beams once they are installed, and LOTS of people have done it and are happy with the results. As long as my lights work better that stock, and last forever I've accomplished my goal with the HID's. I'm not trying to power a lighthouse here. Others here have done HID conversions - I've seen the pics - they look good and the beam length is amazing. I've read what those folks think of them - they like them a lot. And if I don't like em, I'll take em back I agree for the most part, but I haven't yet come across a set of 92-94 EDM headlights. Wouldn't mind having some (I'll still put HID's in them ) Mostly I'm going to do the HID's because I know they will be bright, and will last forever. I hate changing bulbs or driving with one out. Yes I keep spares in the car but it's a hassle and cops hate me. GD

The T-belt on the 2.5's is rated for 105,000 miles so I would reuse it - but that's me. Might do the water pump though as it may have been run dry at some point durring one of those overheating spells - that can spell bad things for the bearings. Belt should be ok though. GD

I have the Silverstar's and don't find them to be "blue" at all (and there's no tint on the bulb itself either). They are quite bright and very white looking to me. And I get them for $39.95 locally. I suspect the info on that site may be outdated and that Osram has replaced the blue tinted Sylvania bulbs with their own "Silverstar" line. They now make a Silverstar "Ultra" as well so that may be a clue. I'm probably going with an HID drop in kit here soon though. My local import house (discount import parts) just got them in. They have plug & play HID kits for all bulb models for $155. Pretty neat and trumps all regular bulbs. GD

The original poster and I have met/hung out in person - as such I know a bit more than it might seem from *just* my post. There's other factors involved I suppose is the best way to put it. At any rate, while people DO mod the EA82T with limited success, I don't sugest that HE mod it. For a variety of reasons which I'm sure are apparent to him, but like a lot of young people - he would rather not pay attention to *those* details. GD

You're gonna blow that motor sky high.... you know that right? Perhaps you haven't paid attention to the EA82T discussions much, but it's generally accepted that they aren't suitible for reliable modding. Hell they are barely suitible for reliable *driving* bone stock. They blow headgaskets and crack heads/pistons/rings in a pretty reliable way though. EA82T's are best used as boat anchors after being replaced with EJ's. A stock EJ22 *without* a turbo is pushing more power than a modded EA82T and will cost you less. For the price of an STi intercooler you can have a whole donor legacy to do the swap - and might end up with a reliable driver out of it.... instead of a pile of burnt engine parts and a car that doesn't move. GD

Ok - another question then. When did the AUX enabled 6 disc changers come out? My GF's 07 OBS has an AUX jack remotely located near the lighter, and it also plays MP3 discs.... what models and when did these come out? GD