GeneralDisorder

I've had all incarnations of EA81's and EA82's to valve float. Never damaged one from it. I had a rod through the block of an EA81 once but it wasn't RPM related. None of them can make it to rod burst speeds in stock form. A member here that was into engineering once postulated that the rod burst speed is somewhere north of 11,000 GD

Nice - I like the bolt head idea a lot. That's quite sneaky. Exactly what I was looking for. As for putting the stereo in the glove box - well that's probably possible, but the remote is IR so I don't think it will function :-\ Perhaps I'll try to put it in the center console under the armrest. GD

If the alt were pushing AC then it should light up all the warning indicators. This happens because AC voltage defeats the diode's in the ground circuits used by the warning indicators. At any rate it should be happening based on engine RPM and not vehicle speed as you describe. At least that's my take on it, and I've dealt with a number of failed alternators putting out AC. GD

You may be able to feel play in the shaft, yes. But it doesn't take much and there shouldn't be ANY play in it. The ND disty's tend to exhibit less tollerance for shaft play than the Hitachi units. GD

Ah yes - I was thinking of the EA series 4EAT I think. But I forget..... Ah well at any rate it's not as complex as he thinks. GD

Probably something to do with a wheel sensor not reading properly at that speed. That's just a guess though. But I don't know of any other way the ABS would know how fast you are going. GD

Put it on a scale and find out Contact patch test is the best way to figure out proper pressure for various applications. Black paint and white butcher paper. It starts as like 90/10, and has a MAX of 50/50 depending on conditions. Some were open, and some were LSD rear diff. Depends on year. But the Viscous Coupler acts like an LSD for the 4EAT. Temp expansion would be equal in all tires so isn't a concern. That's not clear at all - the larger pressure in the front is designed to offset the extra weight in the front of the vehicle. Maybe under hard braking - but that's what the VC is for - to allow different rotational speeds of the wheels. I doubt it - not neccesary to lockup anything unless there's a loss of traction. The wheel sensors are all that's needed to bias the torque. Why complicate it with throttle posistion. Besides I happen to know the 4EAT doesn't have a TPS signal. You aren't making any sense. Stop making it complicated - it's not. Pretty simple really - if a wheel sensor indicates a loss of traction it biases the torque to the opposite end of the car till they equalize in speed. GD

This sounds all kinds of wrong to me - if the belt was "loose" then it would have probably broken or jumped teeth. The 2.5 is an interferance engine and that would have been the end of it. Maybe you are just not familair with what timing belt tension normally looks like? All EJ engines use an automatic hydraulic tensioner pulley and I've never even heard of one failing. GD

I work graveyard in downtown Portland and my new DD is my first non-beater in quite some time. I would like to add two or three kill switches to prevent it from growing legs... 1. Best leads to tap into? I was considering the fuel pump ground as one of them.... 2. Best locations for the switches? On the same note - I'm a bit torn as to the stereo situation. The car has the factory premium 80w AM/FM CD unit, but I have a Sony bluetooth deck that I want to use as it allows me to wirelessly link to the car for both MP3 and headset action. It seems a pity to tear out the stock unit (if I do I'll keep it for reinstall later), but at the same time it really doesn't do what I want.... maybe a dual install? GD

Put your hand on the disty cap - you should be able to feel the shaft "bouncing" - it will feel like a vibration. The disty itself isn't really bad - just needs new bushings. There's places that will do this for you - philbin group here in Portland will do it for about $50 or so. GD

He speaketh the truth. It's on the "wall" that exists where the floor of the inside of the car rises to meet the bench that the rear seat foam sits on top of. If you follow the brake hard lines back to where they enter the cabin you can't miss it - it's right before that. Take all the hard lines you can get as well when you pull it - they can be easily bent to your needs in order to accomidate the Brat. I mounted the proportion valve on two of the same bolts that hold the fuel pump tray. Worked well for me. I decided I needed the valve when I took the Brat for a skid test immediately following the swap - it was wet and under a full lock-up I did a 180 and ended up half in the oncomming lane facing the opposite direction that I started. After adding the valve (and later the same day on the same bit of road) it skids 100% straight. The problem is that the Brat's rear end is so light that the added clamping force of the discs makes full pressure lock the rear wheels before the fronts and results in a situation where the rear end trys to pass the front because the coefficient of kinetic friction is less that that of static friction - thus the rear wheels speed up as soon as they start to skid (this is also the principle behind ABS brakes). GD

That's actually an XT6 on toyota solid axles. The green one is a Gen 1 (EA71) wagon with a standard 3" or 4" block lift. Not terribly common, but it's been done a few times. Mostly those are just rather rare in 4WD, underpowered (63 HP), and don't have a low range. GD

EA81's did not have proportion valves. GD

If you lockup all 4 tires on wet pavement it may lock the rears first and cause a loss of control without the proportion valve in place. That was my experience - adding the valve corrected it and mine stops perfectly straight and level now. GD

It's mentioned in this old thread of mine - I think you are looking for a 1/8" bspt fitting.... this thread may also give you other ideas on how to proceed. I thought I was pretty clever - and just for prosperity it's still working great. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55186 GD

Could be a lot of things - if it's SPFI run a d-check on it. If it's carbed then it may be electrical, or it may need to be cleaned out. Really though this could be many things and you'll just have to go by what it "feels" like. GD

Air introduced in the y-pipe mixes with unburned fuel and then ignites in the muffler. Look for holes in your y-pipe and disable any ASV's that you may have still functioning or that are bad. A rich mixture can contribute to the severity, but will not by itself cause backfireing like that - you still need the fresh oxygen to get into the exhaust stream somewhere upstream - almost always in the y-pipe in my experience. GD

Yeah I don't know if you have the GCK's in AUS, but for $100 each they really can't be beat and the investment is worth it. I've never really gauged how far I can push a JY axle, but it generally depends more on the condition of the boots... If I were going to use JY units I would probably reboot them and change the grease. Assuming you do that I don't see why most of them couldn't go for at least 20,000 to 50,000 or more. It also depends on the chassis - EA81's tend to use more axles as they both have higher ground clearance AND shorter axles - both factors increase the running angles and decrease the lifetime of the joints. I've seen axles click for 10,000 miles on an EA82 - running the whole time with blown boots and the EA81's wouldn't handle this at all. GD

That's just the nature of the EA82T. Get used to it, or swap to an EJ. GD

Stock return line works fine. My write up details the sizes of adaptors I used. The bigger problem is that your carb fuel tank won't have baffles - so you need to build a surge tank. Believe me it's better if you just do it now. Without the surge tank you will run out of gas before the low fuel light comes on. Very annoying. GD

SPFI works just fine on the carbed blocks (EA81's too). The differences in compression are minimal (9:1, and 9.5:1) and definately do not warrant a change to the ECU. The ECU has room to adjust to differences in airflow, and an O2 sensor to adjust mixture on the fly. With the lower comp. you just get to advance the timing a bit. You will show an increase in both performance and mileage with the SPFI. GD

That's really not a logical question. Think about it - you are asking after the lifetime of junk yard parts!? It entirely depends on how the car is driven, the age and condition of the engine and tranny mounts, the condition of the boots, and the proper axle part #being used (ie: not a 2WD in a 4WD chassis, etc). In other words too many factors to make any accurate analysis possible. Generally speaking, if you have a NEW, quality axle, and the vehicle it goes into is properly maintained then you can expect at least 100,000 and probably more like 150,000+ from a new CV joint. Remaned are a total crap shoot and may not even make it out of the shop. For older-gen Subaru's there are better options than the dealer - the dealer only has remaned units at this point. There are several sources of NEW axles outside of the dealer channels that are better quality than original if not just as good. GD

That's just the idle jet and holder bolt. Should be a pretty cheap fix. GD

I would check with the dealer - likely it's a $5 part or less. You would be pleasently surprised by many of the prices of older dealer parts. At least give them a call and find out - my local dealer could have one next day I'm sure of it. GD

Portable CD players were just beginning to be in fashion (read: comming down in price) and I'm sure it was marketing driven - some research somewhere indicated that the target market was big into this technology and they wanted to be able to pitch the ability to plug one in without using one of those clunky cassette adapters. GD