GeneralDisorder

Yep - the 36mm nut can take just about anything you can give it. Emperical evidence sugests that for these tighter is better, and I use the book spec as a minimum. I generally use a cheater pipe and I jump on it several times. The old VW bus rear axle nut's are the same size, and are torqed to 250 ft/lbs spec. In fact I often use the VW "hand-impact" tool to tighten the subaru nuts as well as remove them. If the cone washer isn't seating properly (and it won't if there are any grooves on it) then the spines will wobble and cause the clicking - it will wear the hub and axle splines to the point that both will need replacing if you run it for more than a few miles. GD

It's the standard jetting that all Weber's come with for stock 4 cylinder applications. 140/140 mains, 160/170 air bleeds, and a 50 idle jet (or two). GD

Replace your cone washer and tighten the axle nut to 150 ft/lbs. The fact that the sound goes away under a hard turn points to the splines being loose. They may even be worn - especially if the axle is a rebuilt, and the only way to fix that is to get a new axle, and possibly a new hub. Loose splines will always just make the axle nut work loose again. GD

That's the little foam one inside the filter box right? It's a PCV filter and they are availible from the dealer for about $3 or less. GD

The fuel pump will not have power but assuming you fix that, it will run. Low on power, and rich. The distributor is not ECU controlled on the feedback carbs. My 86 Sedan is Webered but I left the ECU so I didn't have to rewire the fuel pump.... and it retains the pump shutoff in case of accident. GD

Probably came from an 81 GL - only Gen 1 that came with the EA81. It takes a completely different manifold, but yes he's probably not lying to you. Honest mistake, you just got unlucky. GD

The AC evap core is in front of the radiator. Replacing your radiator will help to cool it more effectively. Check the thermostat as well. GD

If your 87 is that way, then it's had it's FPCU bypassed, or isn't a carb model. GD

Under the hood somewhere. They will only have power while cranking. Break out the MM, and check plugs while cranking. GD

Only half of it. The Auto is longer so the front portion of the shaft is shorter. The rear is the same though. GD

Correct - you win a cookie. The duct flappers that direct airflow might also be jammed - nuts and other fixins of mouse nests can cause that. But generally it's the cable sheathing that has come loose such that the cable doesn't push or pull anymore. The heater control panel comes out without removing the entire dash. Might be able to get to it from there, but maybe not. GD

I've known that since before you were old enough to drink. Besides that it still makes no difference in the fitment of XT body panels - they won't fit either the 3-door or the sedan body. GD

No - the body's are completely different. The RX is just a trim line of the GL 3 Door Coupe body. The XT is a completely different animal. There's many, many differences even in the drivetrain components. The XT's used MPFI EA82's with serpentine accesory belts for example - these were unique in the EA82 line. Body panels will not even be close. GD

Entirely depends on the transmission - my 5 speed sedan is at about 2500 at 60 MPH in 5th, and the 2WD 3AT Coupe is at 3000 at 60 MPH. These engines (like all small displacement 4's) like revs. I just finished doing a timing belt on a Miata with the 1.6 - it's at 3200 RPM in 5th gear at 60 MPH . That engine develops 115 HP but at a high RPM. It's gutless at 3000. The EA82 is similar, but develops more low-end torque. The experimental aircraft guys run the EA81's at 7500 for hours. GD

There was a recall that addressed this issue with the early SPFI's. The fix is a change in the size of the port in one of the plastic connectors for the breather system, and a cap that blocks off a hole in the intake boot. It's a really simple fix that you can pickup off any early 90's Loyale at the junk yard. Just look at how the breather hoses are routed at the intake boot and you will see what peices you need to replace. GD

Find out the specs of the fluid and find a generic replacement - I would venture to guess that either the Mitsu Diamond SP-3 or some of the fluids used for other vehicles equipped with EPS would do the trick.... Chevrolet Cobalt, Acura NSX, Saturn Vue V6, 2nd gen Toyota MR2 and on most FIAT and Lancia cars. It's a 20 year old system - there's fluids out there that exceed it's needs by leaps and bounds. GD

I'm sure there is something else out there that can be used. The specs for hydraulic fluids get more stringent with each specification - I'm sure the new stuff exceeds the needs of the XT6 electric system. One thing I wouldn't do is mix old and new - if you decide on a new fluid drain the system and use all new stuff. GD

Not all EA81 carb pumps are the same - they will all work, but the mounting locations, and the bends in the inlet/outlet are different. To test it put 12v to it. GD

Sounds like a possible DOJ failure. Those can cause severe vibration, and it's happened to me on three occasions. GD

If you pull down the headliner you will likely find that the steel supports for the roof have come unglued from the roof panel. They were not welded from the factory and the glue seems to only last for the first decade or so GD

The gaskets MUST be replaced when you remove the intake or leaks will result sooner or later. Wire wheel the mating surfaces back to clean metal, and use OEM gaskets ONLY. Aftermarket are inferior in the extreem. Torque the bolts to 12 ft/lbs and coat them in anti-seize. Chase the threads in the the heads and wire wheel the bolts too. Use Fel-Pro permatorque head gaskets, and torque the head bolts to 55 ft/lbs instead of the factory 47. GD

Same thing that motivated this guy I would imagine: http://www.denverpost.com/ci_6388583 Mental illness - brought upon himself or otherwise. He's probably a semi-functional mini-mart clerk somewhere, or pumping gas - those are about the only things he would be able to do given his metal state. Best way for Nasioc to deal with him is to do what was done here - ban his accounts and keep banning them till he leaves. GD

As daeron mentioned, the actual sensor itself (regardless of where they are located) is generally refered to as a MAP sensor even when not used for manifold pressure. In the MS world for example, the MS control units have two of them - one for manifold pressure, and one for atmospheric - both are refered to as "MAP sensors". Either way it's a nomenclature difference - the part used is the same. GD

Well - I was a mechanic in the ARMY, and so I can speak with some authority on GM stuff as well. Plus I've had a hand (at times whole arms) in repairing just about every common brand out there, and a few that aren't. Frankly there's a variety of reasons I stay: 1: 4WD (dual range even) + Independant Suspention. Can you say Hummer? I enjoyed the attributes in the ARMY, and this is the closest I can afford on the outside at this time. Why don't I just lift a Ford? I like to be able to feel my nether-regions after off roading, and I like to have something left in my wallet after hitting the gas station. 2: Econemy. Show me another vehicle costing $500 with these capabilities that gets near 30 MPG. 3: Parts. Here on the left coast (particularly OR and WA) there are just TONS of parts and cars everywhere. Probably would be driving Toyota's if I was in the east or midwest. 4: Reliability. For what they are ($500, 20+ y/o cars) the reliability is very high. Often easily exceeding 300,000 on most major components. 5: Drivetrain layout. I don't like working on transverse engines. Those are the big reasons for me personally. As for your claim about the ATF in the power steering..... well they are both hydraulic systems so what's the problem? At least Subaru had the sense to use a common fluid that's sanely priced. One less specialty fluid I need to stock. That's common-sense engineering. GD

I can't recall off the top of my head but I think the MPFI/Turbo ECU's have a MAP inside the ECU. It's used for altitude compensation, and does not require an engine hookup as it's there to read atmospheric pressure. FPCU = Fuel Pump Control Unit, and all carbed subaru's have them. Very important safety feature that should not be bypassed. GD