GeneralDisorder

Correct - you win a cookie. The duct flappers that direct airflow might also be jammed - nuts and other fixins of mouse nests can cause that. But generally it's the cable sheathing that has come loose such that the cable doesn't push or pull anymore. The heater control panel comes out without removing the entire dash. Might be able to get to it from there, but maybe not. GD

I've known that since before you were old enough to drink. Besides that it still makes no difference in the fitment of XT body panels - they won't fit either the 3-door or the sedan body. GD

No - the body's are completely different. The RX is just a trim line of the GL 3 Door Coupe body. The XT is a completely different animal. There's many, many differences even in the drivetrain components. The XT's used MPFI EA82's with serpentine accesory belts for example - these were unique in the EA82 line. Body panels will not even be close. GD

Entirely depends on the transmission - my 5 speed sedan is at about 2500 at 60 MPH in 5th, and the 2WD 3AT Coupe is at 3000 at 60 MPH. These engines (like all small displacement 4's) like revs. I just finished doing a timing belt on a Miata with the 1.6 - it's at 3200 RPM in 5th gear at 60 MPH . That engine develops 115 HP but at a high RPM. It's gutless at 3000. The EA82 is similar, but develops more low-end torque. The experimental aircraft guys run the EA81's at 7500 for hours. GD

There was a recall that addressed this issue with the early SPFI's. The fix is a change in the size of the port in one of the plastic connectors for the breather system, and a cap that blocks off a hole in the intake boot. It's a really simple fix that you can pickup off any early 90's Loyale at the junk yard. Just look at how the breather hoses are routed at the intake boot and you will see what peices you need to replace. GD

Find out the specs of the fluid and find a generic replacement - I would venture to guess that either the Mitsu Diamond SP-3 or some of the fluids used for other vehicles equipped with EPS would do the trick.... Chevrolet Cobalt, Acura NSX, Saturn Vue V6, 2nd gen Toyota MR2 and on most FIAT and Lancia cars. It's a 20 year old system - there's fluids out there that exceed it's needs by leaps and bounds. GD

I'm sure there is something else out there that can be used. The specs for hydraulic fluids get more stringent with each specification - I'm sure the new stuff exceeds the needs of the XT6 electric system. One thing I wouldn't do is mix old and new - if you decide on a new fluid drain the system and use all new stuff. GD

Not all EA81 carb pumps are the same - they will all work, but the mounting locations, and the bends in the inlet/outlet are different. To test it put 12v to it. GD

Sounds like a possible DOJ failure. Those can cause severe vibration, and it's happened to me on three occasions. GD

If you pull down the headliner you will likely find that the steel supports for the roof have come unglued from the roof panel. They were not welded from the factory and the glue seems to only last for the first decade or so GD

The gaskets MUST be replaced when you remove the intake or leaks will result sooner or later. Wire wheel the mating surfaces back to clean metal, and use OEM gaskets ONLY. Aftermarket are inferior in the extreem. Torque the bolts to 12 ft/lbs and coat them in anti-seize. Chase the threads in the the heads and wire wheel the bolts too. Use Fel-Pro permatorque head gaskets, and torque the head bolts to 55 ft/lbs instead of the factory 47. GD

Same thing that motivated this guy I would imagine: http://www.denverpost.com/ci_6388583 Mental illness - brought upon himself or otherwise. He's probably a semi-functional mini-mart clerk somewhere, or pumping gas - those are about the only things he would be able to do given his metal state. Best way for Nasioc to deal with him is to do what was done here - ban his accounts and keep banning them till he leaves. GD

As daeron mentioned, the actual sensor itself (regardless of where they are located) is generally refered to as a MAP sensor even when not used for manifold pressure. In the MS world for example, the MS control units have two of them - one for manifold pressure, and one for atmospheric - both are refered to as "MAP sensors". Either way it's a nomenclature difference - the part used is the same. GD

Well - I was a mechanic in the ARMY, and so I can speak with some authority on GM stuff as well. Plus I've had a hand (at times whole arms) in repairing just about every common brand out there, and a few that aren't. Frankly there's a variety of reasons I stay: 1: 4WD (dual range even) + Independant Suspention. Can you say Hummer? I enjoyed the attributes in the ARMY, and this is the closest I can afford on the outside at this time. Why don't I just lift a Ford? I like to be able to feel my nether-regions after off roading, and I like to have something left in my wallet after hitting the gas station. 2: Econemy. Show me another vehicle costing $500 with these capabilities that gets near 30 MPG. 3: Parts. Here on the left coast (particularly OR and WA) there are just TONS of parts and cars everywhere. Probably would be driving Toyota's if I was in the east or midwest. 4: Reliability. For what they are ($500, 20+ y/o cars) the reliability is very high. Often easily exceeding 300,000 on most major components. 5: Drivetrain layout. I don't like working on transverse engines. Those are the big reasons for me personally. As for your claim about the ATF in the power steering..... well they are both hydraulic systems so what's the problem? At least Subaru had the sense to use a common fluid that's sanely priced. One less specialty fluid I need to stock. That's common-sense engineering. GD

I can't recall off the top of my head but I think the MPFI/Turbo ECU's have a MAP inside the ECU. It's used for altitude compensation, and does not require an engine hookup as it's there to read atmospheric pressure. FPCU = Fuel Pump Control Unit, and all carbed subaru's have them. Very important safety feature that should not be bypassed. GD

I too think brain tumor or recreational pharmaceuticals. I work in security in a downtown area that's mere blocks from where the "homeless" hang out. It's very much like talking to a lot of them. I deal with them on a nearly daily basis - moveing them off the property when they try to sleep on the benches and in the alcoves, and confronting them when they are being aggressive or agressively panhandling. Argueing with them is futile, and about 25% of the time I have to get some form of authorities involved to take them away or tresspass them from various businesses. GD

I've NEVER seen an EA82 non-turbo head where the cracks caused coolant leakage. I've also NEVER seen a head without the cracks. Subaru issued a service bulletin in the 80's to ignore the cracks between the valves. They are normal to this engine and you won't find a set without them anyway. Likely your leaks are a result of bad intake gaskets. Have the idiots at the shop do an actual pressure test. GD

Correct - I believe it also requires a MAP signal from the computer. If you were industrious enough it could be done with some creative circuit design and fabbing up the TPS to the carb throttle. Well - all except the fuel system which has to be rewired through a carb FPCU (if you want it correct and safe), and the system run off a carb pump rather than the hi-pressure MPFI one. GD

The whole bearing assembly must be replaced. There were two types used - early bearings were a single sealed unit, and later they changed to the three peice affair with two taper bearings/races and a spacer. The part numbers were superceeded and the new part is backwards compatible. All EA series 4WD trailing arms use the same system - only the bearing assembly itself changed in design. The WHOLE mess has to come out not just the outer taper bearings. GD

At least in EA81 land, the senders aren't all that different - just different resistance values. The analog dash will read the digital sender but the guage will be wrong. Reads like 3/4 when it's full. My EA81 wagon was digidash (w/trip), and I converted it to analog. GD

That would be neat - I would also be very interested if your access to documentation could possibly provide any sort of schematics of the dealer check plugs - something that might be used, or that might give a hint of how to use, the plug. I have several resources at my disposal for electronics design and fabrication. It would be neat to replicate the "tool" if for no other reason than to say I did.... The SPFI is a simple system and maybe it wouldn't be too difficult. Removing the kick panel is a pain, and it would also allow locating the ECU in a more inaccesible area where the LED can't be seen (although I'm sure that I could wire up a remote LED too - but I bet one of those pins already provides that function). GD

That's a Carter-Weber for sure. You can always tell by the large fuel cut solenoid on the very front. On all the Hitachi's it's on the front right corner at an angle. They are difficult to find rebuild kits for, but often do not require rebuilding so much as just a tightening of the base. The base of the carb gets loose from the manifold - unfortunately to tighten them requires that they be removed as the offending bolts are inserted up through the bottom plate and are inaccesible without removing the carb. Best bet for parts is the dealer. GD

3, 10, 11, 12, and 37 are dealer check pins that connect to the diag tool - they allow the dealer to check and clear codes without opening up the kick panel to see the ECU. When I do harnesses, I leave the diagnostic plugs in place and don't touch those wires. Done this way they *could* still be used if you wanted a dealer to take a look at it. I have also removed them for some, but it really doesn't help matters. GD

Dealer GD

It may only be on the 5 speed models, and it's not only the GL-10's because the EA81 digi's did that too and the digi came in plain GL's in the EA81 days - probably in the EA82's as well. GD