GeneralDisorder

Your oil pressure shouldn't be that low, but that could be the sender too. I wouldn't worry about the PCV, but a compression test wouldn't be a bad idea. It's sad that EA82T's stink on ice, but thus is the way of the world :-\. Swap in an EJ22 - you won't regret it. The MPFI system isn't a primitive pile of junk, and they can hold fluids and gaskets - amazing! GD

They are out of stock - have been for a while now unfortunately. GD

4WD will not be a 5 speed. If it's 4WD then it's a 4 speed single range (DL) or dual range (GL). 2WD Hatch would have a 5 speed (GL, DL) or a 4 speed (STD). Check for play in the distributor shaft, and for rust on the whole car. Especially check the radiator, upper and lower hoses, and heater core hoses - all of which should be replaced if there's any evidence of corrosion in the system. Assuming it's a 4 speed D/R, then when you drive it see how tight the linkage is - if it's loose and barely wants to find reverse then you may be looking at a new transmission eventually. Also see how "crunchy" 2nd and 3rd gear are - the four speeds suffer from 3rd gear syncro failure, and also from premature shift dog failure (mostly reverse) due to poorly maintained linkage bushings. Have a look at the transmission mounts - they are often soft and crappy, and aren't cheap - about $90 for both at the dealer. Check out the exhaust - they tend to rust out before anything else on the rig. GD

That's normal for the crankcase to be under pressure like that. Blowby gases are forced through the PCV and burnt. Looks normal to me. GD

It's hard to say for sure, but the regular EJ22 pumps may be the same (or adequate). I would ask over at legacycentral - there's folks there that have swapped T's into NA cars and they will know if the NA pump is compatible or not. GD

Kennedy engineering does it for the VW swaps - you send em your pan and pickup tube. So yes it can be done. GD

Probably leaking at the rack - the pumps rarely fail. Just swap out the whole rack. GD

If I were closer I would help you out - you should lookup some of the Medford crew - find Adam or Tony. I think Adam may still be out of country with the national guard but Tony (Soobme) might be around. I hear he's into Nissan's or something now but he's a real, real good guy and could at least point you in the right direction if not actually assist you with the job. Might even end up with a roll bar or brush guard or something as he's a good fabricator. GD

Did you make SURE the lifters went back into their same locations? If not you may have better luck just replacing them with the new ones. GD

Actually the rear rotors are usually in good shape - sacrificial pads, and the minimal 30% braking done by rears in general makes them generally wear for a very long time. The backing plates are often rusted to peices and near impossible to get off though. GD

If it were PS then it would make that noise all the time, not just in certain gears under load. It would be loudest at idle while dry-steering. My guess would be the turbo itself - under load is when it will spool, and gears 1 through 3 are high enough in the RPM band to spool that larger turbo. Also accounts nicely for the smoking. Probably on it's way out - sucking oil through the shot bearings and making nasty noises. Typical of turbo failure. GD

GM single wire or remote sensing? Also the stock guages are known for being crappy - the one in my Brat routinely changes voltage when I slap the cluster near it. GD

Lithia Subaru in Oregon City. They stock them as they are the same for the EA82's. GD

Yeah - probably a lot easier to feel and hear the knock with my EA81 - less sound deadening and insulation in the car. GD

True - I meant it gets louder for 5 minutes or less *right* before it blows. . But DANG is it loud. Then you just lose all power (if you are on the freeway doing 70 like I was ). Definately the biggest smoke/steam/fluid experience I've had on a freeway. The whole car was one big cloud of "stuff". I knew what had happened immediately though. GD

Rod knocks in Subaru's end about 95% of the time with the rod exiting the crankcase THROUGH the top of the block. I would tear it down and replace the bearings before it blows and becomes a useless hunk of scrap metal. OTOH, it is only a 1600 and they aren't exactly sought after so it's up to you. Does your friend know what a rod knock sounds like on a soob? It's generally inaudible at idle untill it's about to blow. You can feel and hear the rod knock when you accelerate or put the engine under load. They are rarely heard just idleing unless it's really, really bad and is about to toss. One thing you *can* hear at idle is a bad main bearing. Sounds like a dull thud that you can feel and goes away with higher RPM. Much less danger with a main knock too. I would adjust the valves as solid lifter EA71's can be quite loud and the procedure isn't difficult. GD

This guy? http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=PRODSEARCH&txtSearch=SU-022&btnSearch=GO&Page=1 There's several online retailers that have them. Designed mostly to be used with an impact but with care can be used with a breaker bar or 1/2" ratchet. Nice to have but I think I've only used mine like twice because the soob rear bearings are so brutally rugged. GD

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=76990 And while you have the thing apart, pull the oil pump and make sure the bolts that hold the plate to the back of it are tight. They can work loose we are told. It's good practice to remove them and retighten them with locktite. GD

That shouldn't be a problem in practice - the SPFI computer figures fuel from the MAF and the O2 and will compensate for the reduced airflow of the EA81 heads. That's WHY the SPFI is so much more effecient than a carb - because it can and does modify the mixture on the fly depending on engine needs. That's also why you can mod any FI vehicle (to a point - turbo's are anothe story as most NA ECU's can't compensate for manifold pressure going positive) without really changing anything as there will always be some room in the software for changes in airflow. The ECU software is designed in this way largely to compensate for different altitudes and air density in different regions - thus eliminating the "high altitude kit" of the carb days. One ECU for all purposes. The slight differences of the EA81 amount largely to differences in compression and valve timing/size. I would be willing to bet that a port/polish, EA82 SPFI pistons, and a delta cam ground similar to the EA82's you would get near identical numbers across the board. As they sit stock the SPFI is certainly an upgrade on par with the Weber. That's been my experience. GD

One BIG thing to remember about the t-stat's is to ONLY use the Subaru ones. There's a huge difference in quality. After I changed the blown water pump on my 94 (bought it that way) I realized I forgot to buy a new t-stat for it. I boiled the OEM one that was in the car and it still operated flawlessly. No problems and already driven it 1,000 miles. I'll probably change it at the next flush but really the OEM ones are tough as nails and built like tanks. The aftermarket stuff is cheap in the extreem. Air will naturally evacuate the system (should) once it's run but if you fill it with the bleed plug out it should not have any air in it. At least that's my experience with them. I also massage the upper and lower hoses and take my time filling it to insure it's completely air-free. If you need assistance it looks like we are pretty close - I could take a look and offer my opinion. GD

The T-Stat on the EJ's is right under the water pump - on the lower hose. It's easy to access and cheap - you should remove it and boil the T-Stat to see if it opens, then you'll know if it has failed or not. Being that you live in OR your radiator is likely fine (my 94's orginal rad is doing fine) so if it's not the t-stat then it very well could be HG's. At any rate I would stop driving it till you have figured it out - the phase one 2.5's often exhibit HG failure and driving it like this sometimes results in bottom-end failure not long after the HG's are replaced. GD

Turbo: 25 Non: 23 Never know - might not be the axle - could have stripped the splines in the hub. It happens. GD

In order to dup the ECU at ALL times (including durring a D-Check) you must use a 5 watt resistor in the range of the solenoid: 32.7-39.9 ohms. 33.3 or 35 Ohm 5 watt ceramic resistors are commonly availible. Higher or lower than the range may not pop a CEL while in U-Check but it will in D-Check and it will prevent the diagnostic routines from carrying out the full battery of tests and may make it impossible to diagnose some other fualt. GD

My local shop sells retrofit kits for all bulb models starting at $155. Nice kits too. Nothing illegal about em. GD

Strangely enough I just bought a 94 that had similar symtoms after blowing the water pump. The pump more or less seized, engine overheated, and when the owner tried to start it after filling it with coolant (she was going to limp it to a shop a few blocks away) it wouldn't start. The timing belt (which was still perfectly fine) jumped time on the cams because it was dragging over the water pump pulley causing it to jerk the tensioner and stretch the belt enough to hop a few ribs. In my case it would *try* to start but was out of time on both cams and couldn't sustain an idle at all. Sounds very similar to yours - coolant leakage, overheating into the overflow bottle, and the engine's out of time - even one tooth is enough to make it run aweful. I did the whole timing set and water pump and it runs perfect again - couldn't have got a better deal for $750 Easy to verify - pop off the outer belt covers and line up the timing marks. The cams should both be straight up with the crank at 0. BTW - easiest timing belt replacement I've ever done. Easy access, and just a pleasure to work on. If you have done the EA82 belts then this will be like a tropical vacation :cool: GD