GeneralDisorder

Could be a lot of things - if it's SPFI run a d-check on it. If it's carbed then it may be electrical, or it may need to be cleaned out. Really though this could be many things and you'll just have to go by what it "feels" like. GD

Air introduced in the y-pipe mixes with unburned fuel and then ignites in the muffler. Look for holes in your y-pipe and disable any ASV's that you may have still functioning or that are bad. A rich mixture can contribute to the severity, but will not by itself cause backfireing like that - you still need the fresh oxygen to get into the exhaust stream somewhere upstream - almost always in the y-pipe in my experience. GD

Yeah I don't know if you have the GCK's in AUS, but for $100 each they really can't be beat and the investment is worth it. I've never really gauged how far I can push a JY axle, but it generally depends more on the condition of the boots... If I were going to use JY units I would probably reboot them and change the grease. Assuming you do that I don't see why most of them couldn't go for at least 20,000 to 50,000 or more. It also depends on the chassis - EA81's tend to use more axles as they both have higher ground clearance AND shorter axles - both factors increase the running angles and decrease the lifetime of the joints. I've seen axles click for 10,000 miles on an EA82 - running the whole time with blown boots and the EA81's wouldn't handle this at all. GD

That's just the nature of the EA82T. Get used to it, or swap to an EJ. GD

Stock return line works fine. My write up details the sizes of adaptors I used. The bigger problem is that your carb fuel tank won't have baffles - so you need to build a surge tank. Believe me it's better if you just do it now. Without the surge tank you will run out of gas before the low fuel light comes on. Very annoying. GD

SPFI works just fine on the carbed blocks (EA81's too). The differences in compression are minimal (9:1, and 9.5:1) and definately do not warrant a change to the ECU. The ECU has room to adjust to differences in airflow, and an O2 sensor to adjust mixture on the fly. With the lower comp. you just get to advance the timing a bit. You will show an increase in both performance and mileage with the SPFI. GD

That's really not a logical question. Think about it - you are asking after the lifetime of junk yard parts!? It entirely depends on how the car is driven, the age and condition of the engine and tranny mounts, the condition of the boots, and the proper axle part #being used (ie: not a 2WD in a 4WD chassis, etc). In other words too many factors to make any accurate analysis possible. Generally speaking, if you have a NEW, quality axle, and the vehicle it goes into is properly maintained then you can expect at least 100,000 and probably more like 150,000+ from a new CV joint. Remaned are a total crap shoot and may not even make it out of the shop. For older-gen Subaru's there are better options than the dealer - the dealer only has remaned units at this point. There are several sources of NEW axles outside of the dealer channels that are better quality than original if not just as good. GD

That's just the idle jet and holder bolt. Should be a pretty cheap fix. GD

I would check with the dealer - likely it's a $5 part or less. You would be pleasently surprised by many of the prices of older dealer parts. At least give them a call and find out - my local dealer could have one next day I'm sure of it. GD

Portable CD players were just beginning to be in fashion (read: comming down in price) and I'm sure it was marketing driven - some research somewhere indicated that the target market was big into this technology and they wanted to be able to pitch the ability to plug one in without using one of those clunky cassette adapters. GD

Ok - well I think that pretty much makes it a GT then. Didn't notice the CD player, but then I wasn't looking that close other than to notice it was all bone stock stereo equipment. The rest of the stuff in the GT package fits with what I've seen of it thus far. So 2 questions then: 1. What's the "full ground effects package", and can anyone show me pictures of the difference? 2. What kind of value does the GT package add to the car.? I already got it for a steal, and I intend to drive it as a daily anyway..... but it's always nice to know how big of a deal you got ya know? Little old lady (no kidding) owned - water pump let go - shop wants a fortune - etc. I didn't even try to talk her down as it just wouldn't have been right. I paid the asking price of $750 figureing that even if the engine is totally hosed I'll still come out ahead. And with 132k on it I doubt the engine is in need of much more than a t-belt and WP replacement. GD

So I bought a 94 Legacy today (first new gen for me personally), and it seemed a bit odd at the time... It's clearly a upper-end trim line model from what I can tell. Don't have any pictures at the moment but will in the next few days. It's got ABS, factory alloys, roof rack, and is an AWD 5 speed. A/C etc. The thing that's got me is the badging on the rear door - it say "GT AWD", or "GL AWD" but I'm fairly certain it's the former (car isn't yet in my possesion - I have to arrange towing)..... I've only recall ever seeing "L" and "LS"?? It is NOT A turbo. It does have a reconstructed title so maybe this isn't the original rear door?? Also I don't recall seeing these wheels before on a 94.... perhaps someone can tell me something of the trim line based on them. GD

Rather than experimenting with weird carbs that haven't been tried - perhaps this is in your future - it runs sooooo awesome and has potential for upgradability like no other combination for the EA81. And the added benefit that myself and a few others have done it so it's not entirely a gamble: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

Lower control arm pivot, and the sway bar link is all you need for either side - the whole knuckle will swing out and the axle will drop off the trans, either onto the cat (which is fine) or onto the ground. Then you just whack it out of the knuckle using a bit of wood or copper/brass hammer so as to not damage the threads. Get a grease gun and a injection needle and squirt some grease in the bearings just for good luck. Really it's quite simple - especially if (like most of us that have owned many older ones) you have done more than you can count. Probably takes me a whole 30 minutes now. GD

There is a spring/check ball there - it's to divert overpressure to the cam spray bar from the lifters. It's designed so that the lifters get a constant oil pressure, and the spring is carefully calibrated. If it's not to spec the lifters may tap. Don't forget the brass washers for that banjo bolt. GD

Remove the inner control arm pivot bolt, and the sway bar link. GD

Sadly I really don't have time for making harnesses right now - I was going to make some but the intrest just isn't there. Not enough people that are skilled enough or that want it badly enough to swap from the Weber to the SPFI - even I am going to switch to MS in the future. I have vehicles needing work stacked up for the next 6 months at least - half of which aren't even mine , and I've been working tons of overtime at work - four 16's in a row last week GD

It's all about the linkage and the tranny mounts. Specifically.... hard to say, but I can tell you the *reason* for reverse failure on the subaru transaxles is usually a result of not having the gear fully engaged. Redo the linkage and make sure the mounts are SOLID - it helps to move the tranny UP with some custom mounts too. Best solution by far is to install a 5 speed with it's superior linkage. GD

Not in practice. The larger tires will make it hard to accelerate, and they give a much larger rolling resistance. You end up with 20 MPG or less on a rig lifted like that, and virtually no power. Top speed on that thing is probably around 50 to 60 MPH. Passing is not happening, and any kind of hill will result in a high RPM 3rd gear pull. Been there, done that. Unstable.... well a little. If it's done right (looks like possibly) then it's got no sway bar. And the larger offset and huge tires make the steering very sensitive, and any rut in the road yanks the car around a bit as the mechanical advantage of the stock steering wasn't set up to handle those kind of large forces. So you end up driving slow, and it's sometimes a white knuckle sort of affair. GD

The Weber's are availible new in a kit from Redline - K731 or K730 depending on EA81/82. They run about $375 Find another place to do the inspection that doesn't do a visual - not all do, and plenty from WA have smogged Weber'd EA81's - talk to Edrach I know he's done it. Or retrofit the SPFI - it's not really as hard as it sounds, less expensive than a weber, and you'll easily pass a visual. GD

I've ran open belts for about 50,000 miles thus far and have only had one incident - I dropped a shop rag into them while checking fluids one day. Broke both belts instantly. But personally I would gladly trade the possibility of accidental breakage for the 15 minute belt change using only a 12mm deep socket. I had a spare set on hand and was back in business in no time. I don't see it likely that any road debris could easily fly up there as long as you retain the splash guards and the skid plate. And personally I like being able to change them on the side of the road if need be. But it's entirely up to you - weigh the risks and the benfits and decide for yourself if it's right for you or not. GD

Short answer - not really for a noob, no. Hitachi's are the spawn of satan, and the C/W is actually easier to work on. Get a Weber DGV. It will be cheaper once it's all said and done. GD

You have dealer installed AC. That plug is only used for factory AC so it goes to nothing. You'll find lots of things like this in vehicle wiring harnesses if you really start looking. GD

I guess that you aren't aware.... those cracks between the valves are normal, and you won't find a head that doesn't have them. Subaru actually released a service bulletin to the effect that as long as the cracks do not extend into the water passage (look in the exhaust port), then they are fine and to be left alone. The situation is such that all 3 generations of EA82T heads will crack there at a near 100% rate. You can't fix it - they will just crack again anyway if you peen the crack shut, and welding it will just make it weaker and it will crack open again. Besides that, these cracks do not cause any issues so there's really no reason to bother anyway. Just one of the quirks of the EA82 line of engines - and yet one more reason why the T's are simply are not suitible for performance applications. They can barely handle the stock 7 psi of boost. The weak material between the water jacket and the exhaust port, the lack of MLM head gaskets, and the lack of proper head studs to torque them with makes it more expensive to try and build up the EA82T than to just drop in an EJ20G or EJ22T that's far more capable. If you really want to do it, you will need to o-ring the block, have a set of studs made up (ARP will do it, but the cost is very high), and have a serious engine management system with EGT sensors to make damn sure you don't blow those jackets. But it's not worth the effort. GD

I wouldn't waste my time with that engine. Swap it out for an EJ22, or N/A EA82 SPFI. The EA82T's are more trouble than they are worth, and it sounds like fixing it would cost about as much as a 22 swap. Same coin, slightly more effort, 20 more HP, no turbo. If it's been overheated that severely (as if any of them haven't ), then the whole engine is suspect. Heads are as expensive as a whole EJ22 anyway (~$250). GD