GeneralDisorder

What I mean is - you probably won't notice you even spent any money. GD

So drive down here and get an engine. Buddy of mine just got an 89k EJ22 off a shelf from a place near me for $250. Runs like a top. Came with everything but an alternator. Bottom line is you aren't going to get $200 worth of performance out of those cams. GD

Better to stick with Delta - they have proven grinds for the EA series, and much experience. If not done properly you could easily wind up with a grind that doesn't do what you want, or a cam that goes flat because they didn't grind it right. For about the same price you realize you can get an EJ22 right? If you are looking to build something for off-road (low end torque increase) then get an EA81. GD

If you really want to push the limits, you will need to install and tune MegaSquirt. While the SPFI is a great system, there are gains to be had when using it with the EA81 due to the EA81's smaller valves and tighter flowing heads. While it is the same displacement, it is NOT the same on the performance end of things - the EA81 can use less fuel than the EA82 so the SPFI computer's fuel maps are slightly too rich. Not enough to hurt it, but definately enough to notice over an entire tankfull. I would guess you would gain about 5 MPG or more if you tuned the SPFI properly for the engine. It's not a small amount of work, but the gains would be more than any other single modification. GD

You crimp, and then bend it over on itself, and crimp again - like when your garden hose kinks. GD

Remove the lower slide bolt, rotate up, and slide inward off the upper slide pin...... make sure they don't have the parking brake set - it's on the front wheels. GD

EA82: long on econemy, short on performance. It will NEVER live up to expectations, and the money spent is down an endless hole - it would cost thousands to get an EA82 N/A to the 135 HP of the EJ22. You can pick up a low mileage EJ22 for $250 or less now. The yards around here just dropped the price of entire engines to $150... GD

You're in Eugene - just head over to B&B auto wrecking - they will have dozens of good hubs..... probably about $20 or so. They will haggle.... GD

There's no difference - 71 and 81 use the same adaptor. GD

Cheaper and easier to buy one. They are only $35 GD

Just crimp the failed hard line with a pair of pliers. Bleed whichever circuit doesn't have the hole and you will still have brakes to one front and one rear - that's the easiest temp fix. And if you are stuck in the boonies fill the system with water or motor oil. It will work for a bit if you go slow and stop to let it cool. GD

Interesting - could you post a link to the auction? GD

You don't need a drill press - just a cheap variable speed 3/8" drill will do it. Use a small bit for a pilot hole, and then go with the larger bit. Taper the holes if you feel like it using a dremel. GD

Actually they aren't. GD

That's exactly what happened on my Brat. I nearly mentioned that your flasher was probably full of water as that seems to be the most common way they fail. Looked nasty and rusted inside. Sadly most windsheild shops don't like to replace the gaskets - they like to "flow" the glass in with that liquid urethane stuff. While it does work, it looks like a$$ and doesn't retain the chrome strip. There are a few folks that have replaced them on their own - apparently it's not that hard. You use kerosene (per the FSM) to lubricate the gasket and using a bit of strong cord you pull the gasket through to the inside working your way around the glass. Get a NEW gasket if you can - I've heard that the dealer one's have gotten a bit "hard" from years of shelf life. Try some of the aftermarket suppliers and let us know what you find as I will be in need of one eventually myself. GD

It will hit the engine cross-member. Leave the spacer as it's iron, and you can tap threads for 7/16"x20 into it for a more secure fitment of the flanges. Also cut the threaded end off the ASV pipe and weld it up using a washer, etc. That will effectively block the port on the side of it. GD

All the 4WD's are in the 27/28 range for manual, and 25/26 range for auto. That goes for EA81's and EA82's both. I get 27 regularly in my Webered EA82 sedan. GD

If you jack it up, you'll see a 1" thick round rod going generally backward from the control arm next to the ball joint to a plate where the transmission crossmember is located. The bushings are on the plate. Also make sure the bolts holding the rod to the control arm are tight. Check the sway bar bushing at the control arm as well, and the control arm bushing itself at the engine cross-member. GD

Good times. You probably start with better examples than me - I'm poor . I've done WAY too many things in my short life. It's sad really, but I'll find my niche eventually I suppose. GD

Right on. You'll love it. GD

Take a look at the leading rod bushings..... and the mud splash guards aren't loose hitting the tire are they? GD

That's related both to the mileage I put on them, and their initial state of (dis)repair. Almost without exception I bought them inches from being scrap because I'm not afraid of repairing anything. My current DD was $100 out of someone's front yard. I also put about 25,000 - 30,000 miles on my DD every year. And none of this is considering all the local's (board members and otherwise) vehicles that I work on, the modifications I've done, the swaps, lifts, repairs, etc. Or my experience as a mechanic in the Army....etc, etc. But yeah - sure, whatever you say old man. GD

It entirely depends on the size cat you use. Flow is related to size - WRX's have cat's, just as all newer high performance engines do. Cost is related to how ghetto you want the job done. Cheaper exhaust shops would probably do it for less than $100 but the welding will probably look like a$$. GD

You can be tired of it all you like - that's your perogative. However as long as my expereince contradics what you say, I'll continue to do so. Nope - I'm the guy that's owned twice as many soobs as you, and has 8,000 more posts than you do. GD

It doesn't work that way in practice. The ball joints generally fail because of lateral force from cornering. The wear is on the inner and outer sides of the sphere. All the worn ball joints I've replaced showed no play using the pry-bar method. They do however have a lot of play in and out when you grasp the wheel and pull. It's true that it is possible for them to fail as you describe, but it takes contamination from road grit or sand to do it. If the boot is good they fail the way I describe. Regardless they rarely make noise as he describes - they cause odd steering behavoir which he makes no mention of. Also your "weight transfer" theory doesn't work on a Subaru as the sway bar holds the control arm to the knuckle tightly. GD