GeneralDisorder

Nope - unrelated part. The gear is free-floating in the case. GD

The advance doesn't have nearly as much to do with it as the cam. The EA82 SPFI is a higher reving engine, and produces fully 16 more peak HP than an EA81. As such it's cam grind isn't as "torquey" as the EA81. It does rev easier and faster than a carbed engine though, so it really doesn't make than much difference. The EA82 SPFI that's in my Brat right now is quite a significant improvement over the EA81 it had. It will make perfectly fine torque if you give it the revs it needs. SPFI on a stock EA81 has comparable torque to the Weber. It doesn't have the "spot" where the secondary opens so it behaves differently. But it's a pretty darn big TB, and you get a LOT of air through it. The sound isn't the same as the Weber, but the power is there just the same. Also much more condusive to snorkel setups as the intake duct is round and requires no adaptors. The SPFI system itself is really flexible actualy. It's sensors give it the ability to adjust for engine flow, and by using MegaSquirt you could actually tune it anyway you wish. Timing and advance curves are all easily modified. Quite a fun challenge actually. GD

You ever replaced the O2 man? They get slow after a few years. GD

It's important to properly route the cable UNDER both the steering column and the heater core hoses. If you don't it won't last long. OEM only on clutch cables. It's also important to have either the return spring or the HH cable hooked up to make the clutch return properly and not wear out the release bearing. GD

HG's aren't that big of an issue - they last just about as long as any other brand out there ~200,000 give or take if you take care of the cooling system. If you are repeatedly blowing them then there's some problem with the head, block or cooling system, you haven't got them installed correctly or they aren't quality gaskets. Running higher boost on the turbo's will do it also. GD

You would have to run it with MegaSquirt.... I guess you would run it like a bank fired MPFI. Only one of the TPS's would be hooked up of course. It would probably work, but it would require a lot of tuning and tweaking. Personally I would just use a larger TB off some other vehicle and custom build a manifold. GD

It's true - even here they are getting a bit more uncommon. I usually see only 1 or 2 in the junk yards now. On a good day I might find 4. The few left are being saved it looks like - sold on craigslist or on the street rather than being sent to the JY as more and more people get web access and see they can get more from a car from free online advertising than the yards will give them. GD

The egg does work, and will last a little while actually. Basically the hot coolant and water pump results in scrambled eggs that jam in the small holes as the coolant circulates. Mythbusters got it to work with a pretty good sized hole they made using an awl (ice pick) that had a stream of water shooting out of it. Quite the leak I would say. Sure it's temporary, but it's impressive in it's effectiveness and cheapness. Definately an option to make it to next payday.... and doesn't result in a clogged heater core or other adverse effects. The egg will eventually break down and just drain out unlike some of that expensive stop-leak crap. GD

I used the yellow/red to the ECU, and the black to ground and have never had a speed sensor code go off. Black is always ground in almost all electrical systems, and the signal wire does not require a seperate power supply as the speedometer signal generator is an electro-mechanical pulse generator. It creates it's own small signal voltage by passing a magnet near a coil of wire. That's why it's such a small voltage. I also have factory CC on my 84 wagon, and black is grounded through the CC unit. It's all in the wireing diagram of the FSM for the CC system. GD

They aren't that rare. I've seen dozens. There's a guy that drives one near my work in fact. All STD hatch models were EA71 and 4 speed's. They made em till 89. GD

The bore is NOT different. The stroke is different. EA71 and EA81 pistons are interchangable. But regardless, the gaskets are different. GD

There's no such thing. There's an EA series 3AT automatic. They came in 2WD and 4WD but were otherwise identical till the introduction of the 4EAT (with the exception of the early top mount starter EA71 auto's). So what you need is an EA81 TC to insure the flex plate bolts, and overall thickness are correct, and that the stall speed and other characteristics are correct for the EA81. GD

Actually he will need one for an EA81. The tranny's are the same, but the flex-plate on the EA81 may be different than the EA82. I'm not really sure as I hate the 3AT and avoid it like the plague GD

Have you run a D-Check? I doubt it's your ignition coil. It's probably just not the original coil or something. Some models of the coils put out slightly different resistance readings. You could try it but it's comparatively rare to see a coil fail and the engine still run. Internally the only way for them to fail is to short circuit.... which almost always results in total failure or a failure that occurs after warm-up. GD

Yes, but your speedo head could be broken. Put a MM on it and see what registers as you drive. It's an on/off signal (square wave) but a simple MM will show if it's doing anything at all. Should fluctuate between 0 and a few volts. GD

I think that's correct, yes. Every 60,000 if I'm not mistaken. But it's not just feedback's that do that. My 85 had the EGR light on when I bought it. Just have to swap a connector under the dash to reset it. It's a general reminder to clean the EGR valve and check it's operation. GD

I think you'll find them quite capable. They also do not require a retorque. The water pumps *can* be rebuilt as long as the housing isn't damaged. It's not common here in the US, but in Mexico and other places where easy replacement parts are hard to come by it's done more often then not. The oil pumps might be a bit trickier as machine work is needed, but those too could be rebuilt. A performance cam shop could do it if they had a mind to. GD

You still won't make as much power as an EJ. Delta cam does EA81/EA71 cams for $75. GD

Should be a twin pole connector off the top - yellow/red + black is what it was on both the clusters I had in my Brat (85). I grounded the black wire as you indicated. Your speedo does register right? Broken cable? GD

For $400 you could get a Weber kit and be a lot better off. GD

There's a board member (rguyver) that makes them for $100. Extremely high quality computer CNC part too. He had 5 of them at the show in August. $250 for a shelf engine, $149.99+$50 core for a yard engine. That's COMPLETE engine assembly. $25 for the harness, and $35 for the ECU at the yards. All availible online in PDF. Just have to print em. Still less money and work than building a Hi-Po EA82 that will be reliable. It's not a matter of telling anyone what to do. It's a matter of telling people what's smart and what isn't. Wasting your time is your right - just don't expect anyone to not think ill of the logic. GD

The Fel-Pro's are better anyway according to most experience here as well as my own. Newer gasket technology. Here's a question - if someone were to ask specifically for you to do one using the Fel-Pro's would it be possible? I'm not in the market myself, but I ask for those that might inquire here on the board so that we may answer with correctitude. GD

So you are advocating that people who don't want to pull an engine and install another one should pull their existing engine, tear it completely down, rebuild it with custom, expensive parts, reinstall it and then install completely custom management in order to get the same performance, and in all probability, less reliability? That's silly, very expensive, and time consuming. There's little need for this thread anyway - the EA82/T has been anyalized to death for years on this board. Use your search feature. The conclusion: install an EJ if you don't like slow and effecient. The EA82 is a decent engine, but it's not suitable for performance mods. Economically it's far better to start with an EJ. People have a tendancy to beleive (and defend that beleif) that what they own - what they have chosen - is the *best*. Sadly that's not always the case. I own 2 EA82's currently (and no EJ's currently), and I've had many, many others in the past including T's. I like them for what they are, but I also recognize their limitations - which are too numerous to consider spending much time or energy to overcome when for a fraction of the price I could get just as much KNOWN RELIABLE power from an EJ. GD

Those flathead V8 guys would have jumped at the chance to drop in an engine twice as powerfull that can be had for the price of a performance carb. Besides that there's quite a difference betweent flathead tech, and the engines of today (or even of 20 years ago). Not the least of which is material sciences, and manufacturiing techniques that cannot be duplicated easily by the average modifier. It's not a matter of *if* it could be done - sure it could. New rods, pistons, and heads/studs (biggest problem by far) would easily bring the EA82T up to snuff quickly - to the levels of performance seen in modern engines. We all know that. The issue IS the cost, and there is NO way around it. People have hashed this out many, many times. When you can build a decent EA82T for the price of an EJ22 then maybe it will be viable - till then it's acedemic - arm-chair B$ that will never come of anything. Spare us yet another long thread about what you *think* can be done, and what you could *theoretically* get out of it. Get out there and DO IT if you think it's such a viable option. GD

Your fuel isn't any different than ours - the fomula they use to calculate the octane is. Doesn't matter anyway though - EA82T is an excersize in futility. GD