GeneralDisorder

If it went to the light or the sender, grounding it would cause the oil pressure guage to rise to max pressure, or the light to illuminate. The oil pressure sender wire is blue in the stock harness, so it probably is. Black with red stripe is probably a ground for the harness - there should be a ground attached to one of the manifold bolts - it may be that one. GD

Fastest EA82T's have had the engine replaced with an EJ series . They aren't condusive to modification. The cost outweighs the gain because so much of the desireable mods require custom work as there is just no aftermarket for them. Plus the heads just suck and the displacement is small. EJ22 N/A is 20 HP more without the complex turbo system, and the EJ22T is 50 HP more and capable of 500+ HP with commonly availible aftermarket parts. Of course the stock tranny won't handle that much.... GD

Just have to start checking stuff... Pulling could be alignment, badly worn ball joints, or steering rack bushings. Clunking could be several things - check to make sure the leading rod bolts to the control arm are tight, that the steering rack bushings are good, and that the engine mounts aren't torn in half. Try to lift the engine off the mounts, and move things around by hand with the wheels off the ground. Basically it's just a matter of checking each component that attaches the suspension to the body and engine/tranny crossmembers. You have the axle nuts at 150 ft/lbs or more right? GD

That's probably about 25 to 30% actually. There's at least a gallon left when the light comes on - probably closer to 2 actually. I'm in West Linn too - interesting. BTW, there's no need to go through DEQ. None of mine do - I have mine registered to Vernonia. Any address outside the test area will work. Woodburn is probably closest. GD

I've got the EA82 kit in both my Brat and my Lifted wagon - I've never had a shifter or my hand hit the stereo or adaptor with either a 4 or 5 speed. You will lose the ashtray though. GD

That's a standard low profile roll bar. It was a dealer option. GD

Thanks. Just something I picked up I suppose. Got any job openings? Always got A's in college writing. I'm a stickler for accuracy and detail. Check out my SPFI conversion write up : http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html Well - bring a couple buckets of extra parts, and watch those head gaskets and heads.... I honed my mechanical skills in the Army as a generator tech, and as a kid playing with farm implements. But there's no substitute for experience when it comes to early Subaru's - they are a slightly different breed. I've owned over 20 now - including both an EA81T and 2 EA82T's. Didn't like either of those variants. As many others here have found, even small amounts of modifications to the EA82T will almost always end in catastrophic failure - usually alarmingly quickly. Cracked heads, blown headgaskets and collapsed ring lands are common. As well as blown rods. Yep - that's basically the size of it. the 5 speed just gives you back what you lost when they changed the ratio's. 3rd and 4th on the 5 speed is basically the same as 3rd and 4th on the 81/82 4 speed. 5 is nearly useless with big tires. GD

EA82 non-power racks are fairly rare items.... they do exist though. There are mounting differences, as well as differences in the column linkages. They aren't things that couldn't be overcome, but removing the rack from manual cars is a PITA - the skid plate mount is welded in place so the rack must be slid out from the side. Some welding will probably be involved in the retro-fitting process. GD

1. Turbo's produce power at higher RPM. Their low compression, and need to spool the turbo make for pitiful low-rpm torque. 2. The EA82T specifically is prone to overheating, and cooling issues - especially when you don't have adequate airflow over the radiator. IE: hard driveing, and slow vehicle speeds. 3. The EA82T in stock form has only marginally more power than an NA motor, and again it's up high in the RPM range. The EA82T is 115 HP, and the EA82 SPFI is 90 - MPFI is 95. The EA81 is 74. Again though the most important factor for lifted rigs is torque - which can be substantially increased on the NA models by replacing the stock Hitachi carbs with either a Weber, or SPFI. The torque can be further increased by swapping to a Delta cam, and by recurving the distributor. These changes are MUCH easier and cheaper with carbed EA81's and EA82's but can be accomplished with the SPFI system by going with MegaSquirt. With the turbo it's a lot more difficult as you have a low-compression short block that doesn't handle mods well at all. 4. The whole Turbo system of the EA82T makes it more complex, and thus prone to "issues" off-road. They are finicky, and there's just too many potential problems that would be extremely difficult if not impossible to fix on a trail. 5. The EA82's timing belt system is prone to failure at regular intervals. The belts last 60,000 if you are lucky, and the added complexity of having two tensioners, an idler, and extra cam seals that can fail (bearings + water, dirt, dust, etc) is not desireable on the trail. Add to that they difficulty with doing simple things like replacing the water pump and oil pump (both require t-belt removal) and you have a recipe for disaster. Basically it's far better - considering the labor involved with adding the complete injection system and turbo to an 83 - to build a higher output EA81. Your 4 speed sucks because you have the 83/84 tranny. They changed 3rd and 4th gear after 82 to make them taller. The 81/82 4 speed is much better with large tires - as is the 5 speed. I run both - I have a lifted wagon with a built EA81 and a 5 speed, and I have an EA82 sedan as a daily. I also have an EA82 SPFI powered Brat with a 5 speed that's basically just a street plaything. It will get an EJ swap at some point but I had the SPFI engine laying around . There is NO WAY I would run the EA82 in any form off road - most especially the Turbo. It's just asking for too many problems and the extra power is deceptive because it's the wrong *type* of power for that application. They can be fun on the street but you don't ever want to be far from AAA rescue GD

I notched the frame rail with a die grinder and then welded it all back up. The HH does need to be pushed back. I wouldn't worry about the valve cover gaskets. A bit of notching should allow for their removal. So you have a lift in it already? That will make things interesting, and frankly you may want to reconsider Jerry's kit. It should be a pretty simple matter to fit the tranny if you don't have to clear the tunnel. Building mounts is rather easy if you don't have to worry about very very close tollerances as you normally do on unlifted EA81's with the 5 speed. Why are you using a turbo on a lifted rig? That's really not ideal at all. GD

bratsrus1 His name is Jerry - great guy, and great kit. It's actually a cross-member that he makes. The linkage is trivial really. You are going to need to notch at least the drivers side frame rail to clear the EA82 properly. Just so you know. And the exhaust will need to clear the engine cross-member. GD

It's the same width, but there's other problems. I've thought about doing this as power steering racks for EA81's aren't always easy to find. The major consideration is that the cross-member for power steering cars is physically different to allow the rack to be installed and removed. That and the lines are different etc. Basically the width and tie rods are the least of your worries with this kind of swap. GD

There's two sets of bolts that come with the kit - IIRC you use the silver ones that are smaller. The black ones are probably what you used and had to tap for. It's also very important to use blue threadlocker on them or they will work loose. GD

No one *needs* an early EA82 Turbo FWD 3AT Auto sedan. That's like saying some people need another hole in their head. That car is a recipe for failure and bad Subaru experiences. It is literally EVERYTHING that was bad about Subaru in the 80's. I can see no redeeming qualities - it's not even a wagon or 3-door. The sedan body is ugly, and useless besides the craptacular drivetrain that poor savage beast was born with. GD

Seems to happen rather suddenly as well. First time it happened I pulled over to inspect the car - it was that violent.... Mind you I've BLOWN front axles and not stopped to see what went wrong - drop it in 4 and get it back home. The DOJ's get loose and lack of good grease coverage causes them to overheat and bind up - the engine and tranny hop up and down as the axle turns. It can easily rip an engine mount in half. GD

Classic DOJ symtoms. They are binding as they turn. I've had a few so bad that they make the whole car hop up and down. Scary at freeway speeds. GD

If you have the money for a weber from them, go get an SPFI setup. You won't regret it GD

No - try $50 or less - it's 2WD and an AUTO. EJ22T cars usually go for $2500 or less these days. They are nearly 15 years old after all. I almost bought one with a bad AWD Automatic for $600 not long ago. Would have been a pretty simple swap to manual. GD

Yeah - I suppose I should know better than to not qualify that statement. They are unreliable for *most* people. Because most people DO suck at life in general. GD

You will be heavily dispointed with the EA82T - it is both unreliable and underpowered (115 HP). If you are looking for a turbo find an early 90's EJ22T. If you are looking for a good 80's subaru, find an 88 or 89 4WD 5 speed non-turbo. GD

Messy, and unless you use automotive silicone you will destroy your O2 sensor. I just use a peice of vacuum hose with a bolt in the end. GD

Relays should be fine. GD

The EGR and Purge solenoids are right next to each other on the top of the manifold. You'll see it. Both are just on/off vacuum switches operated by the ECU. The ECU energizes an electromagnet inside the solenoid to open the vacuum flow. If the ECU does not sense a specific amount of resistance in the circuit, it will throw a code and illuminate the CEL. Since neither of these solenoids operate anything that is required for correct engine operation (both are emissions devices), simply fooling the ECU into thinking that the solenoid is there is enough to correct the situation. It has the side benefit of being a permanent fix - resistors have no moving parts and as such will outlast the rest of the car. The solenoids are a pain as they can be hard for some people to find at yards (although you can use almost any solenoid - Toyota's and other brands work - they just don't bolt up all pretty looking like the stock units), and cost around $80 each from the dealer. GD

Early EA82T, FWD AUTO, and a potential history for cooling system issues? I *might* take the car for free if I didn't have to tow it. Let someone else get taken to the cleaners. Seriously - run, don't walk, away from that place. GD

You remove the entire alternator/AC compressor bracket. And you swear a lot. GD