GeneralDisorder

Yeah - I understand. It's difficult to find people out your way that have any experience with things like the Brat or the Sammuri. Jeeps are ubiquitous and there's lots of so-called "fabricators" that have no experience outside of domestic rigs. If you can't find anyone that will do what you sugest then you might have to just buy a welder and make it a learning experience. These folks have no experience with Brat's, so they naturally try to substitute their expeirence with Jeeps instead - that's not a good fit as the jeep frame is much too wide to accomidate the Brat unibody in a clean way. Perhaps explain to them that the Sammi basically IS a jeep but it's proportions are better for the Brat body. Maybe that will get their attention. Or get a couple issues of Petersons 4WD and show them pictures of modified Sammi's like the one above. GD

I must dissagree. The EA81 has more stock HP than the Sammi in the picture above, is more reliable, and easier to maintain in an off-road vehicle. It also has more HP and torque than many of the old Jeep 4 cylinders. With SPFI it can easily run at any angle which is far superior to the older jeep offereings which are carb based. It's all about gearing with tires like that. HP will just break the tranny or drive axles. That's why recent Jeep offerings from the 80's and up have such a horrible reputation - V8's do not make good off-road equipment. They have too much power for the small drive systems required by the size of these vehicles, and they consume too much fuel. Even the military Hummer H1's only have 160 HP, and they weigh close to two tons because of the heft of the frame and drivetrain required to support the GM 6.2. I'll say it again - Sammi frame, dual transfer cases, EA81 and 5 speed D/R. GD

Dude - start your own post or do a search. GD

EA81 pistons are 8.7:1, and RAM does offer forged units for both engines. The price is extreeme - you could do an EJ22 swap twice over with the money. Besides that you'll blow the HG's or crack the heads on the EA82T's without serious management and o-ringing the block. Not worth the thousands of $$ it would take. GD

Sure - I've seen plenty of axle tools, but one more never hurts. Could build one but I was intriuged by the "$20 ebay tool" as I haven't yet seen any commercially availible tools in that price range. GD

Carbed EA81 fuel system is not pressureized. The pump output pressure is about 2 to 3 psi. Sounds like his carb needs rebuilding to me. Or junk it and put a Weber or SPFI on it. GD

The trim on 85/86's was glued on and is smaller. The door will not have the holes for the 87+ trim attachment clips. GD

He hasn't been logged in since january, so you might want to PM or email him. GD

The turbo crowd gets a little bit, but it's still not a lot, and the performance moves up in the RPM range. Due to the way the cam cases are made it restricts how they can do the grind or it won't slide back into the case.... also means you have to use spacers under the lifters - Delta reccomends using dimes (as in US currency dimes ). The EA81 is much more condusive to cam grinding because it doesn't have the grinding limitations. GD

It's about this hard |----------| Get one from the dealer ONLY. GD

What I mean is - you probably won't notice you even spent any money. GD

So drive down here and get an engine. Buddy of mine just got an 89k EJ22 off a shelf from a place near me for $250. Runs like a top. Came with everything but an alternator. Bottom line is you aren't going to get $200 worth of performance out of those cams. GD

Better to stick with Delta - they have proven grinds for the EA series, and much experience. If not done properly you could easily wind up with a grind that doesn't do what you want, or a cam that goes flat because they didn't grind it right. For about the same price you realize you can get an EJ22 right? If you are looking to build something for off-road (low end torque increase) then get an EA81. GD

If you really want to push the limits, you will need to install and tune MegaSquirt. While the SPFI is a great system, there are gains to be had when using it with the EA81 due to the EA81's smaller valves and tighter flowing heads. While it is the same displacement, it is NOT the same on the performance end of things - the EA81 can use less fuel than the EA82 so the SPFI computer's fuel maps are slightly too rich. Not enough to hurt it, but definately enough to notice over an entire tankfull. I would guess you would gain about 5 MPG or more if you tuned the SPFI properly for the engine. It's not a small amount of work, but the gains would be more than any other single modification. GD

You crimp, and then bend it over on itself, and crimp again - like when your garden hose kinks. GD

Remove the lower slide bolt, rotate up, and slide inward off the upper slide pin...... make sure they don't have the parking brake set - it's on the front wheels. GD

EA82: long on econemy, short on performance. It will NEVER live up to expectations, and the money spent is down an endless hole - it would cost thousands to get an EA82 N/A to the 135 HP of the EJ22. You can pick up a low mileage EJ22 for $250 or less now. The yards around here just dropped the price of entire engines to $150... GD

You're in Eugene - just head over to B&B auto wrecking - they will have dozens of good hubs..... probably about $20 or so. They will haggle.... GD

There's no difference - 71 and 81 use the same adaptor. GD

Cheaper and easier to buy one. They are only $35 GD

Just crimp the failed hard line with a pair of pliers. Bleed whichever circuit doesn't have the hole and you will still have brakes to one front and one rear - that's the easiest temp fix. And if you are stuck in the boonies fill the system with water or motor oil. It will work for a bit if you go slow and stop to let it cool. GD

Interesting - could you post a link to the auction? GD

You don't need a drill press - just a cheap variable speed 3/8" drill will do it. Use a small bit for a pilot hole, and then go with the larger bit. Taper the holes if you feel like it using a dremel. GD

Actually they aren't. GD

That's exactly what happened on my Brat. I nearly mentioned that your flasher was probably full of water as that seems to be the most common way they fail. Looked nasty and rusted inside. Sadly most windsheild shops don't like to replace the gaskets - they like to "flow" the glass in with that liquid urethane stuff. While it does work, it looks like a$$ and doesn't retain the chrome strip. There are a few folks that have replaced them on their own - apparently it's not that hard. You use kerosene (per the FSM) to lubricate the gasket and using a bit of strong cord you pull the gasket through to the inside working your way around the glass. Get a NEW gasket if you can - I've heard that the dealer one's have gotten a bit "hard" from years of shelf life. Try some of the aftermarket suppliers and let us know what you find as I will be in need of one eventually myself. GD