GeneralDisorder

Carb pumps only get power when cranking or running. There's a FPCU (fuel pump control unit) under the drivers side of the dash - it controls the relay using the tach signal from the disty. GD

USE THE BLUE. You will never get it back out with the Red. Loc-tite will take care of the problem. If you get the right brand of rotor it should come with a new screw that has a lock washer that will bite into the plastic of the rotor and keep it from turning out. GD

Your best bet is to cover the holes as you are planning. If they can't get in initially they probably won't try - although a determined rodent will make short (maybe a couple minutes) work of foil tape, cardboard, plastic or any other soft material. I and my GF have rats as pets and I can tell you that there is nothing they can't chew or won't eat or nest with given a chance. Only way to stop them would be to poison them, but then you have dead carcasses AND nests inside the duct work. I know of nothing that will scare away rodents other than a bowl of cat food and the biggest, meanest tabby you can locate to stand guard over the car. Get a nice outdoor dog/cat house complete with food, water and big mean farm cat. GD

There's supposed to be a lock washer on the screw. I've never had one come loose but if I did I would use blue lock-tite on it. GD

Soak in carb cleaner overnight. GD

It's definately going to be easiest to pull the dash. Although it's probably *possible* without doing it, the added effort is worth the end result as you can inspect and clean all the whole vent system and use new foam on all the flapper doors and stuff. GD

US Brat's do have the intermittant wipers - GL's only of course. Did you mean to say that the "Brumby" doesn't have them? Coupe's and Sedan's here also have them and yes, the switches are the same as the Brat since they don't have rear wipers like the wagon and hatch. GD

GCK - special order at Autozone. GD

I also seem to recall 4 relays. Perhaps one has already been replaced and was not put back in it's rubber "holster"? Might be dangling, or more likely someone shoved it up into the mess to keep it from dangling. My subarusense tells me a PO has used an aftermarket relay which may have subsequently failed GD

Lots of folks have done the Weber swap - myself I've done it fully half a dozen times or more now. The first few I ground some on the flange to "match" and the rest I didn't. It doesn't matter either way - the difference is non-existant. Others I talked to when I had the same idea as you agreed. The heads flow so badly, and the cam curve is such that the rest of the manifold matters little. The EA82 manifold flows a bit better than the EA81 but it's not much, and doesn't seem to make any difference in power. The biggest win for the EA81's is changing the cam and porting the heads in conjunction with a slight compression increase. Even then the EA81 stock manifold is more than adequate for 100HP. GD

Apparently YOU need to learn to search too. I said I have covered it. That means search for keywords AND my board name. And no, I don't like repeating myself. I've done too much of it. Take a look at my post count. We cover stuff such as this way too often and there should be a FAQ. But no one that runs this place has done it. There's FAR more information availible with a simple search than we can cover in just this thread. It's best to narrow your search criterion and read all the applicable threads. You will get more info that way. How many new threads do you see me make? 99.5% of all my posts are answering someone's question because either I know from experience, or I already did the search myself. GD

People need to learn to use it. We cover this stuff like weekly. GD

I wasn't refering to the feedback ECU. There's others. GD

Might have to have a chat with you Rob. I could use a new DD. If you are up around 2 am I'll be online. I only need one, but maybe that will put you in a position to fix one of the others. GD

Probably an intermittant TPS issue then. I would test it. GD

Did you follow the procedure - holding the pedal down, return to half throttle for 2 second, and then start and drive for at least 1 minute? Then after you have driven it, let it idle for a while and see if it pulls a code. GD

D-Check. GD

86 was a weird year - that was the introduction year of the SPFI (only on 2WD's). After they did away with carbs they changed it to "Check Engine". GD

Yes - EA81 oil pumps drive at 1/2 crank speed as they are driven off the cam. The pumps are similar in design and all other things being equal one would expect the EA82 pump to produce higher pressures. But the EA82 has more demand on it's oiling system with it's hydrualic lifters located farther from the pump, and it has more failure points with it's cam case o-rings and pump mickey-mouse gasket. It's also important to note that the EA82 pumps do need to be replaced just like the EA81 pumps. Many people argue for "just reseal them" but that is not always adequate. The pump pressure degrades over time. All the EA series engines I've owned were capable of 20+ psi hot idle with a decent pump, new seals, and new sending unit or mechanical gauge. Any less than 15 and I start looking for the reason. Having a rod come out the top of the block will do that to a man. :cool: GD

CEL is for fuel injection. ECS is for carb. GD

All years are not the same. GD

Swap the relays. GD

The connectors consist of a single wire from the ECU, and a ground wire. So the proper terminal (there's two) on the ECU gets grounded and that tells the ECU it should be in Ucheck, Dchech, Readmem, or Clearmem. All you need is Dcheck for setting the timing, but it's very important to have all the modes availible when you need them. They are insturmental in being able to diagnose problems effeciently, and in some cases there really isn't any other way since some codes can come only from driving with it in Dcheck. Sometimes a fault will only set a code while in Dcheck so that without it you will just have a strange operating condition but no code at all. The very first step in troubleshooting much of the system is to put it in Dcheck and run it though the diagnostic procedure. I don't recall which wires go to the connectors however. I may get a chance to look at one of my harnesses later tonight, but I'm not sure. GD

Once you put the ECU in test mode the timing is locked. Timing is set to 20 degrees for the SPFI system regardless of RPM (test mode locks it to 20 even if the engine isn't at idle), but the idle RPM should be 700 to 800. As for the pin - well shame on you for cutting the test connectors out of the harness. I guess you'll just have to figure it out. This will help some (from my write up): http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI/ECU_pinout.jpg You don't need a timing light either - just set the flywheel to 20, and point the rotor at the #1 plug wire. There's not enough predetonation in all the land to break an EA rod in half. Their burst speed is well up into the 11,000+ RPM range. Short, stubby, and very thick. You would collapse the ring lands on the piston first or blow holes in it. But none of this ever happens with N/A engines. Only forced induction. As for your "concern" about BTDC - that's basic engine theory. The desire is for the flame front of the burning intake charge (which starts at the top of the cylinder) to reach the top of the piston just as the piston reaches TDC. In order for this to happen the fuel must be ignited BEFORE the piston reaches that point so the two can meet in the middle. The faster the piston travels, the more advance is required for them to meet at the right point. The piston's speed is variable, but the intake charge burn rate is not. Therefore the ignition must be set off at different times to accomidate varying engine speeds. "predetonation" occurs when either the ignition is advanced too far ("ping"), or when the fuel spontaneously ignites due to high compression (diesel engine for example) or from excess heat. GD

A lot of our officers are quite nice. My windshield has been cracked for like.... well ever since I got it in fact. I've been pulled over three times - twice by the Portland/Metro PD's, and once by a podunk female officer in some two hick town south of Salem.... only one that gave me trouble was the hick town officer. Said she would write me a ticket if I drove by her a second time with it like that even though I promised to fix it on my next payday () - that wasn't good enough for her despite the fact that I told her I wouldn't be able to afford it till then. I haven't been back there in that car since, but I've been pulled over twice by the Portland PD, and haven't had a problem. Just a friendly "warning". I've recently discovered that I have all the qualifications for the Police. And the starting wage is $40,000 - increasing to $70,000 at 5 years. Seems like a good way to go for me. They are lately concerned with hireing people that have "customer service" skills. I guess with the recent bout of folks being tazered, they have had to change their hireing priorities some. GD