GeneralDisorder

Classic DOJ symtoms. They are binding as they turn. I've had a few so bad that they make the whole car hop up and down. Scary at freeway speeds. GD

If you have the money for a weber from them, go get an SPFI setup. You won't regret it GD

No - try $50 or less - it's 2WD and an AUTO. EJ22T cars usually go for $2500 or less these days. They are nearly 15 years old after all. I almost bought one with a bad AWD Automatic for $600 not long ago. Would have been a pretty simple swap to manual. GD

Yeah - I suppose I should know better than to not qualify that statement. They are unreliable for *most* people. Because most people DO suck at life in general. GD

You will be heavily dispointed with the EA82T - it is both unreliable and underpowered (115 HP). If you are looking for a turbo find an early 90's EJ22T. If you are looking for a good 80's subaru, find an 88 or 89 4WD 5 speed non-turbo. GD

Messy, and unless you use automotive silicone you will destroy your O2 sensor. I just use a peice of vacuum hose with a bolt in the end. GD

Relays should be fine. GD

The EGR and Purge solenoids are right next to each other on the top of the manifold. You'll see it. Both are just on/off vacuum switches operated by the ECU. The ECU energizes an electromagnet inside the solenoid to open the vacuum flow. If the ECU does not sense a specific amount of resistance in the circuit, it will throw a code and illuminate the CEL. Since neither of these solenoids operate anything that is required for correct engine operation (both are emissions devices), simply fooling the ECU into thinking that the solenoid is there is enough to correct the situation. It has the side benefit of being a permanent fix - resistors have no moving parts and as such will outlast the rest of the car. The solenoids are a pain as they can be hard for some people to find at yards (although you can use almost any solenoid - Toyota's and other brands work - they just don't bolt up all pretty looking like the stock units), and cost around $80 each from the dealer. GD

Early EA82T, FWD AUTO, and a potential history for cooling system issues? I *might* take the car for free if I didn't have to tow it. Let someone else get taken to the cleaners. Seriously - run, don't walk, away from that place. GD

You remove the entire alternator/AC compressor bracket. And you swear a lot. GD

And what exactly would be leaking? Besides that, rubber plugs are not only possible, but rather cheap and easy for even citizens of relatively low intelligence to operate. GD

It MUST be a 5 watt or higher rated unit (ceramic, flame proof). Any less than 5 will result in a burnt resistor. The circuit needs to disipate over 4 watts. GD

Big enough EMP probably will destroy your clock circuit, and possibly the fuel pump control unit..... maybe other stuff like the power window controller, etc etc. Hard to say. All of them have IC's. Strictly speaking the ignition control should be fine though GD

If it caused a CEL, I wouldn't have sugested it. The whole point is to eliminate the CEL. Both solenoids are uneccesary but will throw a CEL if you don't fool the ECU. Depends on your 'shack. I have Fry's electronics out here. Two of em are about $1 or less. www.digikey.com is a good online source. GD

Check operation of the TPS. Clean your MAF, and replace your O2 sensor if it's old. You can search the board here for the SPFI code procedure. It's been discussed many times. GD

You don't need either of them. Replace with a 33 Ohm, 5 watt resistor. Plug the vac lines. GD

Make sure you got the crank t-belt sprockets on in the right order. The one with the groove goes next to the front main seal. Pull any stored codes from the ECU. Make sure there's no exhaust restrictions - clogged cat etc. GD

Have a set of lifters rebuilt for it. The more they tick, the more they wear - to a point where they won't hold pressure anymore. GD

You need a points distributor from an EA71 - the drive gear will need to be changed to the EA82 gear. I'm not certain that EMP would hurt the normal hall-effect distributor though. Might cause the engine to miss slightly due to dispruption of the sensors magnetic field, but there's no IC's inside it so it shouldn't cause permanent damage. It's only "electronic" in the strictest sense - the hall-effect itself is requires a semiconductor to operate. But it's basically just an on-off relay for the coil. EMP sensitive equipment generally needs to contain IC's that would be sensitive to large current flow.... the opto-electric CAS distributors from the FI cars would be fried, but plain carb "electronic" should be ok. GD

Too bad - you threw away what would have been about a $25 fix. GD

Valve gets stuck; rocker arm falls off; rocker is pinched between cam and valve stem; stem breaks off; valve spring and retainer come apart; valve is sucked into cylinder; piston slams valve against head repeatedly resulting in a valve shaped like this: "V" and a shattered piston and destroyed cylinder..... That's usually how it happens. GD

There is no need to tap anything. GD

If a rocker shot through the valve cover then there's a high likelyhood that the piston is shattered from hitting the valve. In which case - engine is toast And as far as Gen 3 heads, there's nothing different about their fitment, but they are almost impossible to find as they were only availible from the dealer after EA82T production had ceased. GD

Frankly you have an early EA82 turbo with a 3 speed auto.... use it for parts and get yourself a later 80's FT4WD 5 speed car if that's what you want. The early EA82T's weren't all that in reliability, and you'll just blow the thing up if you run it hard anyway. Gen 1 heads, old style interior, and 3AT automatic = parts car. Manual conversions aren't for the un-initiated. I've done several conversions of various difficulty levels, and it's not something you want to start with. It will cost more than the car is worth, and more than you can buy a later FT4WD car for in WA. Don't waste your time. GD

1. Verify your timing - both belts, and the distributor. Check for slipped or broken belts by removing the outer belt covers. 2. Clean you MAF - take special care to clean the air bypass port of all oil, dirt and contaminates. Use brake cleaner. 3. Verify that the fuel pump is running - connect the green test connectors and turn the ignition to run. The pump should cycle every few seconds. You need three things for the engine to run - air (both for the engine AND the airflow sensor), fuel, and ignition. Sounds to me like either you have timing issues (broken or slipped belts), or sensor issues to the point that it won't fire the injector. The fact that you get some fire at WOT indicates that when the ECU ignores the MAF things get *some* better. Your "clicking" and "whiring" sounds are normal. That's just relays and stuff. It's when things DONT make noise that you have to worry. GD