GeneralDisorder

Incomplete. LIQUID's don't compress, but steam will. A hot engine will vaporize small amounts of water and effectively steam clean the cylinders - same thing happens when you have a HG leak into a cylinder. Water injection was used in many WWII piston fighters - it lowers the intake charge temp similar to an intercooler. Anyway, all of this talk of carbon is foolishness - your problem isn't remotely related. You just need to adjust your timing, idle speed, and idle mixture. As I said - do a search - I've covered this many times. GD

I'm looking at applying for the Potland Police department right now in fact. I won't deny that I'll probably be quite biased when it comes to old-school soobs . GD

Ground issues will almost always dim both headlights. It's most likely a bad relay (if it's not a fuse) - swap the two headlight relays under the dash. If the other side goes dim then you need to replace one of them. GD

Most places dont. That's cool if they can do it, but it's all acedemic as it's not worth the cost unless it's your only option. And even then the money would better be spent on an EJ22 conversion. Sadly I don't forsee there ever being a need to *fix* major EA82 problems. Hi-Po EA81's and EJ22's are far superior in many (different) respects. The EA82 just isn't the engine of choice for discriminating owners willing to outlay that kind of cash. The EA82 will soon be marginalized as they are systematically destroyed by scrap yards, or replaced by EJ22's for street, and Hi-Po EA81's for off-road. It has many qualities, but they are sadly lost in a sea of inadequacies both in performance, and to a lesser extent maintenance-free reliability. Don't get me wrong - I own two of them ATM - but given the choice you are faced with I wouldn't hessitate to do the EJ swap if the vehicle really is worth that kind of money input. GD

Do a search, I've covered this many times. GD

Not if they don't have a bore plate for the engine, which I seriously doubt they do. Sure they can bore it - but it won't be correct. This is a bore plate (or deck plate as RAM refers to it): http://ramengines.com/db4/00320/ramengines.com/_uimages/deckplate2.JPG GD

EA81T's had oil coolers - no extra pumps required. You just need an adaptor that fits between the oil filter and the pump to facilitate a cooler. Do a search it's been discussed before - there's been a group buy in the past on the adaptors IIRC. GD

Yeah - the SPFI isn't so bad once you understand it's needs. It's not the system that has a problem, but rather the badly translated FSM's that make me scratch my head in wonder when trying to follow their troubleshooting. They are badly organized, with pertinant information often being located no where near the section it needs to be in. Basically you have to read the thing cover to cover, and then read between the lines to infer the information you actually need. Engrish sucks! GD

It *can* be done. But very, very few shops are properly equipped for it. The problem is that the sleeves, once installed, must be bored to the proper size and trueness, with the proper surface prep. This can only be properly done with a bore-plate - a 4" thick steel plate that simulates the head being torqued to the block. No one but a few shops like CCR or RAM have this sort of equipment - thus most attemts to sleeve these engines that don't include this crucial step fail in short order. Subaru engines even from the 80's have extremely tight tollerances - someone used to rebuilding american engines of the same period will not produce an engine that will last very long. GD

They can't easily be sleeved. They just aren't condusive to it - those that have tried ended up with the sleeves spinning in short order. GD

MAF's are interchangable, that's not your problem. I have used many MAF's and many ECU's in my swaps and all work together. Make sure hot-wire bypass is clear of oil and dirt, and check operation of the TPS idle switch. Most likely it was just the wireing (as I said it would be) with the distributor. Either ECU should have run fine. GD

Econemy: About 28 MPG average. Pretty simple install. Intermediate mechanical skills required, and sometimes a little mild fabrication for throttle cable linkages, and AC idle-up solenoids if you choose to keep such accesories. There's DGV, and DFV series. The "A" and the "E" mean virtually nothing in real life. All DGV series are stamped DGAV but it means nothing. The A is commonly refered to as an "Aqua" (water) choke, and the E as Electric, but in practice since all carbs are stamped DGAV, there's no correlation between the casting stamp and what is actually found on the carb. You just have to look at it. Many will be electric from the factory, and some will have been coverted to manual. Older versions tend to be water choke. All the choke types are compatible with a Subaru if you hook them up right, but all Subaru's are electric choke equipped from the factory, so that is the option that makes the most sense, and is the easiest to install. The DFV series suffers from the same nomenclature issue, but is a mirror image carb of the DGV. Everything is reversed - linkage, float chamber, etc, etc. It was also licensed by Holley for use in the early Fords - It's the "Holley/Weber 5200". Used on Pinto's, Capri's, Cortina's, and some 4 cylinder mustangs and others. SPFI is the better option all around, but if the carb install could be called an "intermediate" home mechanic job, then the SPFI is definately an "advanced" or "expert" install. It runs the gamut - mechanical mods, high pressure fuel system mods, and lots of electrical work. I wrote the article linked above and I love the SPFI. I won't go back to the Weber - the SPFI is also generally less expensive because the parts are so easily availible at junk yards. GD

Usual information will be required first - carb, SPFI, MPFI, or turbo? I'm going to guess carb - rip it off and throw it in a dumpster. Get a Weber or SPFI. GD

EGR, besides it's smog benefits, prevents the exhaust valves and seats from being pitted and burned due to excessive exhaust temps. This happens over 10's or 100's of thousands of miles so no immediate effect will be noticed by disabling it. There is, however, no reason at all to disable it's function - it helps keep the air we breathe cleaner, and has positive effects on the life of your engine - it does all that without robbing any power at all, and is both extremely easy to maintain and simple in design. You should do a little research before messing around with your engine bay. If you want to simplify it's vacuum routing supply it with ported vacuum and be done with it. It's also important to note that blocking it off with a plate serves no purpose as the valve is closed without vacuum pressure to open it. Thus simply removing the line to the vacuum actuator would have been sufficient to disable it. Plating over the port is just extra uneccesary work - but you would have known that had you done your research GD

EA81 and EA82 axles do not interchange - the EA82 unibody is wider and neccesitated a longer axle. While the spline count is the same between EA81's and non-turbo EA82's, the axle's will still not interchange - besides the length difference, the inner grease seal diameter of the knuckle is also different resulting in a different outer race as well. GD

Injectors don't run at 12v - that's why you have to use a noid light to test injector fireing on TBI and MPFI. I'm not sure what 12v would do to the injector - quite possibly damage them, but I AM sure you are making this much more difficult than it needs to be. Do the ECU power and ground checks in the 89 partial FSM pdf. You have wireing issues. The injectors do not fail and neither do the ECU's. In over 4 years on this board I've never heard of such a thing - the chances of you coincidentally running across such an extremely rare type of failure after butchering the harness is nill. Your problem likely stems from your complete reworking of the wireing - you should have done that *after* you got it started. GD

The fuel pump only cycles every 5 seconds if the green test connectors are connected, and the CEL should illuminate when the ignition is in run without the engine running - that's just the bulb check though. It could be that you don't have all the proper 12v supplies to the ECU. There's several switched supplies, and a constant supply. There's also several grounds for it - go through the ground and 12v supply troubleshootings in the FSM fragment. GD

Fuel pump and CEL signal are both ground signal's - for the relay in the case of the pump, and for the dash bulb in the case of the CEL. It's covered in my write up.... http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

Check out my write up and make sure your wireing is setup properly: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html There's also a link to the 89 FSM with all the troubleshooting in it. GD

You only think that because you haven't experienced a welded diff. GD

Remeber - you are in WI - we are not. BIG difference. GD

Better get a 60's or older vehicle then. Your Brat still has several even when carbed. There's no reason to fear them. I've never even heard of an SPFI computer failing. It's so rare as to be unheard of around here. Much more reliable, more effecient, more powerful, and nicer operating than any of the carb options. GD

That's insane. Unless it's something special, no EA82 with over 300k is worth more than $500 tops. I bought my 86 sedan with 208k for $100. Keep looking. So in the other thread you were talking about your justy..... is it a 5 speed 4WD? I've always wanted one..... maybe we could work out a partial trade or something. GD

Too bad they suck off-road worse than a normal LSD (which also suck). Good for rally and street perhaps. GD

They are brat specific, and 50% of the time they break off when removing them. GD