GeneralDisorder

I got a 36"... or maybe it was a 48" from summit racing for like $35. Came with the fittings, and it's specifically for oil, and other pressurized applications. I used a metric to NTP adaptor, and a right angle fitting to attach it to the pump housing. Mine runs to an Autometer sender that I bracketed to the drivers side fender wall behind the battery, but you could use any brand of sender. I did this to avoid the 3" long sender sticking down in front, and I used SS line to avoid any potential problems from snaging the line on a small branch or something that might get behind my skid plate (which is large and formidable). The silly plastic tubing they sell for mechanical guages is fine for street vehicles, but the cheap thin stuff they give you with the $7 walmart guage is both too weak (kinks easy, and the cheap fittings leak, and easily cut the tubing), and too short to be of use. I ended up buying a VDO 12 foot length of tubing for my wally guage in my sedan. You need about 7 to 8 feet of tubing depending on where you locate the guage, and the cheap package comes with like 5 feet. Basically because of the subaru layout, and because of the metric to NTP adaptor needed to convert the sender threads, you are looking at around $35 - $40 minimum to install *any* guage. If you buy a cheap guage, invariably you will require better/longer tubing and fittings to make it work, so you might as well invest in a decent Autometer setup. I have a Volts/Temp/Oil 2.25" cluster in my wagon that was about $65. Then the SS line and adaptors was about another $45.... so $110, but I also got *reliable* temp and voltage - which was very important for my application. Also - unless you stick with a brand name guage, or purely mechanical guages, replacement sending units may be difficult to find or expensive to purchase seperately. For this reason I choose to only buy quality brand name electric guages like Autometer or VDO. GD

Take the whole assembly to a smith. You have to drill a hole in the side somewhere to gain access to the barrel. I've seen some that have been re-keyed with new barrels and such. GD

Go take a look at a feeler guage and then visualize taking that thickness out. For reference, even .030" is less than a spark plug gap. So no, it doesn't matter. .020" is *technically* the max if you go by the FSM. But many have done .025, and .030 with just a slight oversize of the manifold bolts. GD

.020" for the manifold to still fit stock. .025" or even .030" if you drill out the manifold bolt holes a size over (no big deal). GD

Read that statement a few times to yourself. It's contradictory. It cannot both indicate what's going on, and have no relavance. It makes no difference because pressure is the only reading we have to go off of. Personally if I don't see a reading above 15, I want to know WHY. Just like if I see a temp above half - I want to know WHY. GD

81 has the pump in the engine bay. Pretty sure it only has one filter. GD

Once you've had a rod go through the block you'll be a lot more careful like I am. Blind ignorance of the true oil pressure might be alright in some cases, but it will eventually catch up with you - maybe not on your current engine, but eventually. "A man that doesn't read great books is no better than a man that can't" -- Mark Twain. Not knowing your real oil pressure is as bad as not knowing what oil pressure is. Both scenarios end the same way. GD

The pressure switch screws into a different port than the guage sender. The idiot switch is on passenger side of the pump, and the guage sender screws into the bottom. This is the proper way to do it on an off road rig - SS braided line to a remote sender: GD

Actually it's not. But this has all been discussed before. A simple search will yeild all the info you could want on oil pressure. I'll just finish by stating that anything below 15psi hot idle is SCREAMING for a diagnostic. And personally I don't like anything below 20. GD

It doesn't actually matter - the core is symetrical with respect to flow. Hook it up however the hoses fit best for you. So you could reverse the lines after you flush it just to help it out. *note* - this is NOT the case for EA81's. Only EA82's. GD

The original poster has been asking about a "lifted" rig as a daily driver in other threads. This thread is just an extension of sorts I think. He didn't mention it, but I'm pretty sure that was the intention..... for the record though I wouldn't run welded with regular tires either, but it may be alright for some. GD

86 EA82, 231,000 miles. Aftermarket mechanical guage, resealed oil pump, new cam case seals. Cold idle: 90+ Hot idle: 25 Cruise: 60-80 GD

Or crack an axle cup. I've blown 2 on pavement with 28's. And it takes all of 5 to 10 minutes to install or remove an axle. The LSD's don't work well with large tires. The friction plates in them weren't designed for large tires. If all you are doing is snow and occasional "off-road" then you don't need anything. Open diffs will work fine if you know how to drive. GD

Pull axle. LSD's aren't that great for real off-road. Better than nothing, but they are the lazy, expensive, less-effective solution. Welding is better on all accounts. GD

Sometimes getting under the hood and in the process of smacking the starter you move the cable a bit, etc. It happened to me anyway. Just one of those things. GD

They don't interchange. Spline count is different. GD

They are very close, but there's little "notches" in the housing of the disty (to keep it from rotating), and on the Hitachi they are smaller - such that the caps won't interchange. It's hard to notice just from looking at the cap though. GD

Yeah - it could be, but that usaully happens with EA82's, and his sucess with hammering on the starter makes me discount that possiblity further. Could also be his inhibitor switch jumper from when he did the manual conversion..... it's hard to say from a distance without playing with it myself. GD

Have you checked the battery cables? I've had poor cables cause similar results. The stock cables are aluminium and get nasty after a few years. GD

Emulsion tubes should be F-50's Accelerator pump I can't recall at the moment. But there's an accelerator pump jet, and there's an accelerator pump nozzle - both have sizes that should be checked. GD

Pure speculation, and being a non-turbo I can almost gaurantee they aren't cracked. You probably have a partially blown HG from one of the passenger side cylinders into an adjacent water jacket. How do I know this? Because I've done half a dozen of them. There's no need to remove the dash for an MPFI swap - especially since you won't even have the right harness to plug and play with the body. The XT is radically different from all other EA82's, and the harness won't fit the car. Removing the dash wouldn't help you. What would need to be done is the entire MPFI control system stripped from the XT harness and piggybacked to the existing SPFI harness. This is not a simple task, and would require at least access to the XT factory service manual to complete properly. There's pedal switches, clutch switches, and nuetral switches to deal with that have to be mated to the SPFI tranny..... there's several days worth of just wireing. Do the HG's - your're looking at a weekends worth of work. About $50 in gaskets and materials. About $70 to mill both heads if they need it. Often only the side that blew will require milling. Replace your upper and lower radiator hoses, and heater core hoses, and make SURE there's no air in the system. Should be good to go. Most likely the shop did a poor job on the HG's, or used non perma torque gaskets. The dealer gaskets require retorqueing after 500 miles - was that done? GD

If you use some JB weld and a bit of window screen to bock off the base heating coolant passage, you can just use regular paper gasket material without any sealant. The base heater passage really doesn't do anything anyway as the base of the carb is insulated from it by the adaptor and it's gaskets. Once you remove the possibility of a coolant leak, there's no need for any sealant. Makes removing the gaskets later easy, and they are generally re-usable. GD

Yeah - I only gaurantee it for those who actually plan to off-road it. If you just drive around on the street, and some gravel or dirt and never break anything then you may not see the need. But if you drive to the capabilities of the machine, you most certainly will. GD

Cap's are not interchangable, and I'm pretty sure the rotor's aren't either. GD

Perhaps you are thinking of the FI distributors. All carb distributors have just two wires to the coil. GD