GeneralDisorder

A geniune Subaru thermostat will cool as effectively as an aftermarket 160 thermostat. The Subaru one's have a much larger opening on them. There's been several posts explaining this. For the $13 I'll take the genuine article anyday. Aftermarket 'stat's are junk as far as Subaru's go. GD

Well - it's mostly the mental "reprogramming" I was refering to. The brainwashing sure works well, but it's just not for me. Too dangerous. We use the Marines to scare the enemy, and use up their ammunition. They are shock troops. Not that it's a bad thing per-se, but they do instill a certain amount of "honor" in dying for "your country". Personally I'm of the belief that the objective is to make the other ba$tard die for his.... GD

Try McMasters for some two part urethane. You should be able to remove the mount and cure the urethane in an oven. Should be hard as nails, but will cost a pretty penny for the urethane. Might be worth the cool experiment though! I've wanted to try that stuff for a while. GD

The difference is 10mm, and using the wrong pump will cause the belt to wear badly. You can use a shorter pump on a long-shaft engine by spacing it out, but not the other way around. They should have asked you when you bought the pump but a lot of places don't know there's a difference. Half the time I get the wrong one the first time. Always compare new parts to old to make sure they are the same before installation. Both use studs to my knowledge, but you could substitute bolts if you were not installing the clutch fan (non AC models don't have one). GD

I've heard of that happeneing before, but never seen it in person. I would guess that's a dealer only item. Possibly the old one was destroyed by a partially frozen u-joint? Just a guess. There's good used ones to be had around here if you need me to pull one. GD

There are two temp sensors - one is for the guage, and the other is for the computer. Sounds like you need to check the computer's temp sensor. I have no idea why your mechanic would be lost. There is nothing special about the early Subaru throttle body injection system as compared to other brands from this vintage. Chevy TBI is similar. GD

The "Check Engine" lamp you have seen would indicate a fault in the feedback carb system. It illuminates to indicate a code is availible at the ECU. To get the codes, you have to remove the kick panel and the LED on the computer will flash them in morse code. Long and short flashes. For example, three long flashes followed by four short flashes would indicate a code "34" which can then be cross referenced through the service manual. The problem with the codes for the feedback carb system is they are not "remembered" by the primitive computer after the engine has been turned off. Once the code fires, you have to remove the kick panel and read the codes before shutting down the engine. It's an extremely complex system for a carbed vehicle, and sadly there's very few of us around that can work on them successfully. When you take into account the expense of feeding the system manifold pressure sensors (MAP), O2 sensors, coolant temperature sensors, and the obscurity of the Hitachi carb used for this system it's always cheaper to replace it with a Weber 32/36 DGV series and get more power, better econemy, and easier, cheaper maintenance. I happen to own an 86 equipped exactly as your model (4WD feedback carb sedan). I went through about 6 or 7 used MAP sensors before I decided I wasn't going to find a good one. I rebuilt a used Weber DGV to like new condition, and all told it cost $190 for the complete rebuild, and the manifold adaptor. The car is a dream to drive, and gets 2 to 3 MPG more than it got before the carb swap. And you can even pass with it now! The gain is mostly on the torque curve, and throttle response is much improved because the Weber is a progressive linkage carb, while the Hitachi has a vacuum operated secondary and runs very weak directly off-idle. Top end is about the same, but throttle response is much sportier and passing is a lot easier. If you would like, I would be willing to assist with the conversion. I'm in Portland. If you order the kit the conversion takes about a day. GD

Try cleaning the MAF with brake cleaner. Sometimes the elements get dirty. Replacement is not often neccesary, but cleaning often helps a lot. It's pretty easy to test them too. You just look for a resistance drop across the sensor element while blowing air over it. GD

Kids these days. No respect for property or possesions. When I take over, folks like that will be involuntarily drafted into the Marine Corp. They make good bullet sponges. GD

Those pictures are somewhat misleading. Subaru engines, due to the horizontal nature of the cylinders, are prone to burning slightly more oil than other designs. The plugs usually have a light carbon coating from this. I would still be checking the PCV system - did you use an OEM valve? The aftermarket ones are known to suck oil. GD

Yeah - that works. Even on EA82's. On the 86+ EA82 D/R 4WD's you can slip the cup between the center console and the 4WD lever. But only if it's a medium size or smaller. Large drink cups don't fit. GD

The holder on Legacy's is in front of the stereo - that's just how they are designed. Never had a problem with stereo "douching" in mine, but I do wish it didn't obscure the deck so much. I'm just glad I have *something* after years of EA series Subaru's, and dozens of "I just peed myself" looking wet spots. GD

If you have an O2 sensor, then you have a feedback (computerized) carb. Non-computer carbs are not equipped with O2's at all. You do have an "ECS" (emissions control system) lamp in your guage cluster, or on the surround. But that doesn't mean someone didn't pull the bulb out of it. Remove the kick panel under the drivers side and you will see the computer. It has a flashing red LED that will indicate codes. Whether or not the shop used the carb from the Japanese motor is a good question - but if they did then they clearly aren't as honest or knowledgable as you think because they would know that the O2 isn't doing anything at all - being they were the ones that replaced the engine in the first place. If that's the case, then the computer, O2 and every other sensor associated with the feedback isn't doing anything, although it's likely still in place as it supplies power to the fuel pump and it's easier to just let it keep doing that. GD

Felpro's are no good. They are cardboard like the rest. Dealer only. They are about $3.65 each at my dealer - but they give me wholesale so YMMV. GD

Ahhh! you mean he should check for vacuum leaks around the carb base But he shouldn't have to mess with it if it was already on the engine when they dropped it in the car and ran fine before. GD

Frankly, any single wire is fine, and the cheapest is generally a Bosch or similar. They are all the same, and for the feedback Hitachi you have it doesn't matter. It probably won't do any good to replace it anyway on that mess of a fuel system. But if you replace it you would know it's good in case you ever wanted to swap over to the SPFI - it requires the same O2. Every one I've ever seen was bad, so I would have to say not long. This one is the coffin nail for the EA82 feedback as it's dealer only, and about $170 or more. It's not worth bothering with the whole feedback Hitachi carb when you can retrofit a Weber for about $275 for the brand new kit. More power, better mileage, no computer or sensors. Have your shop install one for you. The labor will be less too as it's simpler and takes less time than fiddling with that computerized mess of a carb. GD

Looks normal to me. If, as you claim, you are not using any oil.... well then you have answered your own question. What symptoms are you experienceing that you attribute to this carbon build up? Some carbon is normal and is a normal product of the small amounts of oil natually present in the cylinder, as well as the ignition spark itself. GD

What?? That's not going to help the man. You don't need the spacer. GD

Also EA81 fuel tanks have a drain plug in the bottom. So if you are concerned about the tank contents then pull the plug first and drain it all out. You can pull the sending unit and reach your hand inside to check for sediment or to flush the tank, etc. GD

Before you swap the tank out use a bucket or gas can as a surrogate tank to verify it's fuel tank or tank contents related. It sounds like it might be electrical though, and related to the vehicle. What color is the spark? Could be a weird short somewhere or something. GD

Should be a 12mm hex socket IIRC. But then it might be a 14mm too..... measure it with a bolt. It's pretty rare to need to remove those plugs though. What is your purpose? GD

AC current from the alternator's rectifier is defeating the diodes in your guage cluster. At this point from the extended AC output your battery is also shot. Replace both. GD

Frankly I could care less about looks. I'm an engineer and as such I care almost entirely about functionality. The fact that some models are quirky is a DRAWBACK in most cases, but I happen to live in an area of the country where they are/were popular and so mostly it's not an issue. If I lived in an area where Subaru's were not plentiful in the junk yards I would drive Toyota's and wouldn't blink an eye. The engineering quality is what matters and Toyota's are just as good. Subaru's are my choice because they are (in order of importance to me): 1. 4WD and AWD. 2. Inexpensive to own and work on. 3. Easy to work on. 4. Accesible in my area. 5. 4 wheel independant suspension. Nothing else really matters. I drive a 94 Legacy wagon because it's all-weather, hauls my tools and parts, it's pre OBD-II, reliable, cheap, and doesn't draw attention from the authorities. It's not a huge pain in the neck to repair on the odd occasion that it needs work, and parts are accesible here in the junk yards. I don't think that has changed so much - even with the 08's. And when they are 10 to 15 years old I will probably pick one up (assuming I still live in Subaru country). GD

Seems that way doesn't it? These guys do a lot of electrical equipment restoration for shops all around the portland metro area. That's how I found out about them. I don't think they do a lot of "walk in" customer work so their location isn't really geared toward consumers.... no real storefront just a door next to a tavern. Hehe. But I highly reccomend them for their electrical and distributor work. A complete rebuild runs less than $100 for everything and it comes back shiny, with the vac can painted high-temp black. I've always been impressed. Old guys, and somewhat crotchety, but highly skilled. GD

The US is a bigger market, and the US importers get first pick and are likely much more sensitive to quality and more demanding of it. When you pay top dollar you get the cream of the crop - the rest probably go to smaller markets at discounted rates. GD