GeneralDisorder

Under full lock turn, whichever direction makes the noise the MOST indicates it's the opposite side's axle. That make sense? If you hear it turning right, then it's the left axle. If you hear it turning left, then it's the right axle. No - I'm serious. This works about 70% of the time. The outside tire in a turn is traveling faster. The other 30% it's usually BOTH axles anyway so it's a crapshoot as to which is worse. That has been my experience, and is was the conventional wisdom around this board for ages when more of the "old-timers" posted. For the price, and since the shipping is free, you should get the GCK's from Amazon. $100 for two axles and no shipping is the nuts man. GD

Yes - JB weld is the way to do it. Use a bit of regular home window screen to keep the JB from running too much - otherwise you'll have to do it like 3 times as hatchsub mentioned. And no, coolant flow through there is not neccesary. But you can't just cap the lines because coolant FLOWS through that area - it enters through a small hose, but leaves through the manifold itself. Down in that opening there's another bit of hard-line that leads into the manifolds coolant cross-over. GD

WD40 will dry it quicker than a hair dryer. GD

I usually do it without pulling the engine, but I own a hoist so I use that to take the weight off the engine and lift it forward and back again. On the older EA81's and such the engine's are so light that it's easy to just pull them forward. But later model engines are heavier and might not be as easy to manhandle. If you have a garage you might just buy a chain hoist from harbor frieght to take the brunt of the load.... Or two guys with a chain wrapped around a 4x4 bit of lumber works too - they lift and someone else pulls and jiggles. GD

That "package" is a total dealer rip-off scheme. Huge profit margin as it's all labor and they can have some kid ("lube-tech" ) that makes $12 an hour do all that stuff and charge you $100 an hour. GD

The oil will not reach it's proper viscosity, and may not get hot enough to evaporate the additional blow-by gasses from startup, and from running rich due to prolonged engine warm-up. All of which will lead to increased internal engine wear. Not to mention all the additional fuel you waste by not having your engine reach operating temp quickly. Really there's no problem running without a thermostat ONCE THE ENGINE IS WARM. It's the steep temperature hill that it has to climb prior to this state that is extremely harmful. The thermostat's main and most important function is to allow the engine to reach effecient operating temperature as rapidly as possible to eliminate the effects I outlined above. This is the reason that vehicles which are driven very short distances and never allowed the reach operating temp are considered to be running in an "extreme operating environment" (just like heavy dust/particulate, etc) by the manufacturer. It's also why cars with tons of "Freeway" miles last hundreds of thousands of miles longer. GD

Make sure the coil pack isn't wet, and the leads are secure. GD

EGR light is timer operated to go on every 60k. There's a couple blue and green connectors you swap under the dash to extinguish it. GD

This is very much like the debate over LSD's vs. Welded rear ends..... people who have LSD's think they are the greatest thing since sliced bread and will tell you..... till your EARS BLEED. Then they get a Welded diff and go: "OH! That's what traction is!" Same goes for 3AT's vs. 5 speeds. Till you have driven both, and driven off-road I highly doubt your experience is germain to this discussion. It seems like this comes up every once in a while, and it feels like someone is trying to defend their ignorance on how to drive a manual..... just buy one and LEARN already so I don't have to hear this foolishness! (the 4EAT is a different animal entirely - the 3AT has no computer, and is traction "dumb") GD

I've seen em - owned one for a while - out here in the land of soobs they aren't all that uncommon really. Just most aren't on the road because the 3AT took a crap. GD

Actually it's probably for an EA81 hatchback being that the vintage of that stuff is all EA81 and older. GD

The correct MAF adaptor is for a Nissan 200SX. I used one just because trying to fit the damn EA82 airbox in an EA81 bay is problematic. GD

The 3AT's are junk. They have a high failure rate in NORMAL use. What do you suppose extreme use will do to one? Hell - I had one fail just trying to drive it home in 4WD with a busted axle. No good - no good at all. GD

That's just the lure to get them to buy. It's like the first hit off a crack pipe. Get em hooked so they keep comming back - before they know it I own their soul. GD

The second set of seatbelt retractors are Brat jump seat belt retractors. Those are actually pretty valuable as seat belts go, and should definately go to someone that's going to use them in a Brat where they were intended. You can tell both by their shape, and because those are the only belts Subaru ever used where the retractor is the female end with the release button. They are comparitively rare in good condition because in many cases they were exposed to weather and were corroded beyond use. GD

Contact GCK directly. They might be willing to make it right for you considering the warrantee is through them and not Autozone..... OR - buy a new one from Amazon ($50, free shipping!), and then wait a few months and return the busted one for a warantee replacement..... and just have the extra axle for either a spare, or to sell here on the board, etc. Could be a freak occurance with a defect in the race or something. Myself and Chef Tim have been running them for years without issue as have others around here. I've got 4 EA81 GCK's in use - two on my lifted wagon, and two on my Brat - no issues with any of them. ....I've only seen an axle fail like that once before, and it was with like 150k on a 2WD axle in my lifted wagon. Blew the outer joint apart while just taking off out of a drivway. But that was with 28's taking off uphill in FWD while trying to merge into traffic.... and those 2WD shafts are weak.... GD

Heh - sure. GD

Well - No sales tax in Oregon, so that helps I suppose. As to how you go about getting the parts counter to love you long time...... not really sure but I'm sure it has at least something to do with the management. Could also be related to the laid-back attitude of people out here.... the Hyundia dealer was very good to my friend when he needed 8 quarts of tranny fluid at $12 each - got them for $6.45 each wholesale. Must be something in the water PS - not trying to be an rump roast..... just very concerned about how badly other dealerships are treating people. It certainly doesn't make you want to go there to buy a car knowing that all they care about is making an extra $7 off some poor guy with a 20 year old car. In my opinion it would be better all around for them if they weren't so bitter and tried to create a customer rather than just a guy with a broken car. GD

Could be the float sensor inside the reservoir. They are in a pretty hostile evironment. Test the leads coming off it and see if it's got continuity. Should just be a simple on or off type of deal. Also could be the connector as Rob sugested. GD

Ran across this..... receipt for 4 EA series single port manifold gaskets. Just to give you an idea of just how badly your dealership screwed you on parts: $2.66 each is what I pay at my dealership! GD

Yeah - he doesn't know how to time it. 1. Line up the middle of the three lines on the flywheel. NOT the ignition timing lines with the numbers (0, 10, 20) but the OTHER lines. They will be off by themselves, and only three lines about 1/16" apart from each other. These are the VALVE TIMING MARKS. 2. Drivers side cam mark (small hole on outer edge) points straight up. 3. Passenger side cam mark points straight down. 4. Throw the belts on. It's that simple really, but the first time it gets people. It's 4 simple steps - don't think about it, just do it and drive it. Make sure he has the crank sprockets on in the right order. The one with the groove in the back goes on first. GD

For the idle, you should remove and clean the Idle Air Control valve (IAC). It's on the front of the throttle body with a 5/8" hose coming off one end, and a two pin round electrical connector. The leaking PCV was supplying not only oil, but also creating a vacuum leak that increased your idle speed. GD

The early SPFI's had a recall issued some time in 90 or 91 I think for the PCV system sucking oil on long right hand turns. You should apply the recall kit (not real expensive) to keep it from using oil like that. Also clean all the lines out - there's probably a lot of carbon in them. GD

Remove the old carpet and use it as a pattern. Find some scraps from a carpet store..... GD

Um - no you pull the axle off the transmission, THEN you dissasemble the DOJ. But yes, you have the basic idea of how the boots go on.... See above.... and yes. You remove the inner lower control arm bolt, and the sway bar link. Two bolts, one roll pin - then whole assembly then can swing away with plenty of room to drop the axle down and service it. Whole axles ARE cheaper than just boots (GCK's are $50 and free shipping on Amazon), but someone paying for LABOR will pay more for axles because there IS more labor involved in swapping the whole thing out. Removal from the hub is not required for boot jobs. GD