GeneralDisorder

There's a place for RTV, but it's not on the intake or exhaust gaskets. I coat my EA oil pan gaskets in it and let them dry - homemade rubber pan gasket. Prevents them from absorbing oil and getting cooked. I also use it on the cam towers, and the valve covers for EA82's and the cork valve cover gaskets for EA81's. I use it on the waterpumps and the thermostat housings as well sometimes. I have never used the "copper" stuff, nor have I found a reason to. Basically I have three compounds that I will stock - RTV (usually ultra grey), Anerobic (permatex), and Gaskachich (rubber cement - carb base gaskets, and other gasoline prone areas). There are no other sealants I have found a use for on Subaru engines. GD

Pull off that Hitachi carb and wing it at some stray cat. GD

Wheel balance, Alignment, possibly other suspension bits. GD

Then you fill in the imperfections with JB weld and sand it flush with a block of wood and some 300/600 grit. GD

Both the price, and the retard behind the counter are SO wrong. They are installed DRY (per FSM). They are metal/graphite gaskets similar in design to head gaskets. DO NOT USE ANY SEALANT. You will ruin their sealing power. I can't tell you how many of these I've installed because some idiot used the aftermarket cardboard ones, torqued them way too much, or used silicone on them, etc. I learned the hard way by having the aftermarket ones (Fel-Pro even) blow out or leak on me. DRY, 12 ft/lbs, clean surfaces, clean bolts, chase threads. That is the only sure way. My dealer charges about $3.65 each for them. GD

I've heard figures upward of 40 or more for the EJ15's in the Impreza coupes found in parts of europe. Wish we got those here. With crap like the Prius on the road you would think it would make sense - can't possibly be any slower than the Prius anyway GD

The EGR pipe is threaded into the head and the manifold. You will have to undo that to pull up the manifold. It's easiest to just undo the side the threads into the head as it will be easier to lift the manifold, and it will be easier to line up the threads when you reinstall it. Make sure you line it up and get the threads started before you lock down the manifold to the heads as otherwise it will be a real biotch. GD

Probably would have been cheaper to hit the deer. Next time jerk the wheel and e-brake so you smack the vermin with the side so they don't come up over the hood. GD

You can drive it - as long as it's not leaking coolant. Be careful about the bolts - they like to snap off. Use anti-seize. Wire wheel the mating surfaces, no sealants, dealer only for the gaskets, and 12 ft/lbs on the (clean, chased thread) bolts. GD

Well - the sunroof should be fairly easy to replace assuming you can find one. Pull down the headliner and it should be obvious... The rear hatch glass is a bit more involved - for one thing the rear defroster is attached to it so there is wireing involved. It's not going to be fun - easier to just replace the entire hatch. Strangely enough I think I have an EA82 wagon hatch in my parts right now. Assuming it hasn't gone to the crusher - but I'm pretty sure it's back by the shed. Complete with glass. It's silver. From a 92 Loyale. I would part with it for a rack of Rolling Rock if you are interested . Might even be persuaded to help install it. GD

Sounds like a stuck valve. Could have stuck open or something for a short time. How long was it not run? GD

Here's a section from an 84 FSM. The procedure is similar for all Subaru manual transaxles - this just happens to be what I have on hand at the moment. It's NOT something you want to have to do unless you are rebuilding the transmission on a bench. Here's the link to a larger version if you actually want to read it : http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/preload_big.jpg GD

Lots of manual tranny's (including FWD's with integrated diffs) now call for ATF. What do you think automatics use for their gears? It shouldn't hurt it much at all really. Subaru ran ATF in the manual tranny for the Justy LSR they took to Bonneville.... It's got lower gear resistance. Makes syncro's work really smooth too. It may shorten the life of the tranny a small amount - but automatics generally have a lifespan of 250k to 300k while manuals often last 500k or more. It's not a huge difference especially if it was only run with ATF for a portion of it's lifetime. GD

Those retainers do set the front diff preload and need to be marked as to their orientation and set back EXACTLY the same when doing those seals. Without splitting the case there is no way to properly set that preload so it's critical that you put them back exactly where you found them after doing the seals. If you don't you'll ruin the front diff. These change the orientation of the ring gear and pinion inside the front diff - it is critical that they mesh completely and properly or both will be destroyed in short order. Make sure you really need those seals and the grease button hasn't popped free from the inside of the DOJ cup. You could be seeing CV grease and not gear oil. At any rate those seals rarely fail. GD

Probably the CTS - the gear changes are because the ECU will kick up the idle speed when the car is moving vs. when it thinks it's coasting or stopped. It helps with clutch wear to keep the idle higher durring gear changes. This is common on fuel injection systems. Pay more attention to the difference in hot idle (neutral, car parked) as that is a better indicator. The ECU will eventually throw a code if the CTS gets very bad, but it's difficult for the engine to "know" that the CTS is bad because that's it's only clue for engine temp, and it could just be REALLY cold outside as far as it knows. It will err. on the side of not thowing a code so as to not cause uneccesary concern on the part of the driver A check with the dealer diagnostic computer would probably reveal the problem immediately as they are much more accurate about such anomolous readings. GD

1 or 2 degrees would not cause the hessitation you describe. Sounds like the carb isn't set up right. A leak near the base or throttle shafts can cause hessitation like that, or jetting issues. Perhaps the accelerator pump jet isn't the right size. Check all the jetting, check the float setting, and check for leaks - especially around the base and throttle shafts. I've set up over a dozen Weber's on EA81's and EA82's. Improper timing can cause a lot of things - including deiseling on shutdown (along with idle speed), but a few degrees will not cause hessitation like that. GD

Yeah - being tall sucks. I am 6' 2", and I had to put in lower seats than stock to fit comfortably in my Brat. But those do look nice and keister heaters are neato. I might look for a set of those for my Legacy! GD

Sounds like something is screwy inside the slutch - could be the fork - could be the release bearing froze and wore through the pressure plate.... etc. Have to pull the engine or tranny to see. GD

The splined shaft shouldn't have much grease on it. It would be thrown off and get into the disc as it spins. Could some rust have formed to lock the disc to the PP and the flywheel? I would inspect the PP very carefully and possibly consider replaceing it. GD

Sounds like the accelerator pump isn't working. But hessitation like that could be a lot of things. GD

Belts rarely show any wear before failure. They always look "great" till they snap in half. It's not the rubber that fails - it's the internal wire's that hold the rubber together. GD

I seem to recall something about the legacy turbo's not haveing a bleeder port for the top of the radiator?? Anyway a lot of folks pour the coolant into the upper radiator hose to back fill the engine and then fill the radiator. You could fill the heater core this way as well to make sure each part of the cooling system is nearly full before tightening it all up. On the non-turbo radiators there's a plastic air-bleed that is removed from the top of the radiator on the passenger side (near the upper hose) to facilitate air removal while filling..... The closed-deck nature of the EJ22T block makes them harder to fill as the coolant passages are smaller. GD

Yeah - if the transfer clutch pack is damaged to any real degree it may never move again. Once those go out the AT's won't move. The clutch plates aren't meant to be coated in anything but ATF. GD

As I said - the tight, NEW axle is making something else more pronounced. Possibly bearings sugested by the previous poster. Have to do some digging to figure it out probably. GD

The Auto's also have a lot more going on with their version of "AWD" than the manuals do. They have a solenoid that sends more or less power to the rear end. In normal conditions I beleive the auto's are 80 or 90% to the front wheels. It takes intervention from the transmission computer to make them hook up at 50/50. But it probably IS your tires. Fishtailing signifiys you have plenty of power to the rear end but your tires can't bite off enough traction. GD