GeneralDisorder

Yes - Skip's sugestion is a good one. Make sure the vacuum servo's are moving the flaps in your ducting. Also there are differences in the core's for EA82's. Later models are not the same as older models in the shape of the brass tubes comming off them in the rear. Make sure you order the correct one. GD

Not always. They are for EA's.... GD

Probably under the passenger seat. FPCU is under the dash. GD

Imp = 110 HP GL = 90 HP Being that the Imp is lighter, and generally has a more advanced suspension design it's going to be faster and it's going to ride better. All around a better daily driver. But the GL would have the low range - which is nice for some environments. It's a toss-up as to what you want in a vehicle really. GD

What engine? (It matters a lot) GD

No, that is incorrect. As I said the pump should run only when the engine is cranking, or the tach signal is present (running). And for about 2 seconds when the key is first switched on. Otherwise is should NOT run. His 83 is nothing like your RX. The RX (being FI) would cycle the fuel pump if you connect the test mode connectors, otherwise it's behaviour would be the same as above. GD

It definately helps to have the pin-socket for the ring nut, but not neccesary. I used to do then with a chisel and a hammer before I bought one. An impact and the proper pin socket sure helps with not destroying the nut though. Pound out the axle stub shaft with a soft-faced (copper is my preference, but brass works, or a block of wood). Do this before you remove the ring nut, or you may find the stub has rust-welded itself to the old bearings. Remove the ring nut, drift out the bearing(s), and drift the new ones in. I use a brass punch tapered to only hit the race... The bearings come several ways - single-peice, three peice, and five peice. Subaru OEM started out with the single peice, and then switched to a three peice in the early EA82 era somtime. All of them fit the same, and the three peice depricated the part number for the single peice in the EA81's. It doesn't matter which you use. Personally I like the three peice as they are easier to install.... GD

Have you flushed directly through the core disconnecting both lines at the firewall? If not try that with high-pressure water. Flush both ways. Otherwise get a core and go to town - takes about 6 hours. Try rockauto.com, and the online dealerships - subarupartsforyou, etc. GD

Radiators.com I have used before. All EA81 radiators are two-core, so nothing really "special" here. An ordinary OEM spec replacement should do just fine. If you look around you should be able to get one for $120 or less. GD

Probably time for a new radiator. The cost to fix them is more than they are worth. Get a new one. GD

If only it were that easy GD

Rear's are easy to rebuild since they used DOJ's on both ends for most of them. Some of the EA82 rear shafts used a CV outer, but it's easy enough to find the double-DOJ units and just rebuild them. GD

There's been changes through the years on how this has been done. 1. Pre-internal VR's use VR output to activate the fuel pump. Possibly through a timer circuit device that runs the pump for a set amount of time durring "key up" when the key is first placed into the run posistion. Depends on year as this first catagory covers everything up till '82. 2. Internaly regulated carbed models of the EA81 (and non-feedback carbed EA82's) have a FPCU (fuel pump control unit) that supplys the power to the fuel pump based on the tach signal from the coil, and on non-feedback models it also supplys choke power. Feedback models use a similar device, differently colored, that controls the pump but not the choke (ECU controlled). Again power is supplied for about 2 seconds durring key-on, and then only if the ignition is in "start" or if a tach signal is present. 3. Feedback carb EA82's use the feedback ECU to control the fuel pump relay just like FI models. 4. FI models use the ECU to control the fuel pump relay. This is an important safety feature and under no circumstances should it be bypassed. It is not a difficult circuit, and there is no reason to be ignorant and disable it. You might cause the painfull and messy death of the next owner or passenger of your vehicle. GD

Yes definitely. Oil will soak into the belt material (it's rubber and fiber, so it's porous - take a look at the ribs on the belt and you will see the embeded fibers). Engine heat will cook that oil and cause the belt material to become brittle. Heat is the enemy of rubber and the oil will absorb heat - it's very much like dunking potatoes in hot grease - you get french fries and they are definately more brittle than raw potatoes..... make sense? GD

Well - the answer of course is that it already has. No EA82 belt would ever last that long. They are lucky to last 60k - usually breaking around 50k or 55k. So the answer is to find out when it was last done. With 100k you are probably looking at a minimum of 40k on the belt, or a max of around 60k. Wonder no more.... GD

You are in WA - just hit up some pull-a-part's. Or hop on craigslist for tons of cheap donor vehicles. You aren't "screwed" by any stretch of the imagination. Not here in the PNW anyway. GD

Being that you have a CAS distribitor - it's not likely your problem. The ECU controls the timing based on sensor input. So now you need to make sure you have the thing set into test mode to check the timing. GD

That was my understanding as well. And that Turbo's didn't come with the 3AT after 87. But the OP's car is an 86, so he wouldn't have to change his axles for a 5 speed D/R swap. GD

It's near the thermostat housing on the manifold. Should be a 17 or 19mm with a two-blade connector. GD

Probably the core, yeah. Make sure the radiator is full of course. You can try back flushing the core, but that often doesn't work. Takes about 6 hours to do a heater core. Remove the dash - replace a lot of the foam on the ducting and get a chance to clean it out with lysol, etc. It's worth the time to do it right if the car is nice. If the car is a beater.... light the passenger seat on fire. Harbor Frieght sells those little 12v electric heaters that plug into the cigarette lighter. Cheap option.... A propane camp style heater could work too... just be careful how you mount it GD

Could be a lot of things, but I would be checking the Coolant Temp Sensor and it's plug followed by a good IAC cleaning. Both can cause temperature related problems. TPS shouldn't be temperature related. My money is on the CTS being faulty or the plug corroded. Check for ECU codes too. GD

Pretty easy really. You need: Transmission Driveline Rear diff Shift Linkage Transmission cross-member and mounts Flywheel Clutch Pedal Assembly and clutch cable Clutch fork return spring from a 85 to 89 DL Interior console peices Swapping in a 5 speed is no more difficult than swapping in another automatic. The only difference is the 5 speed is lighter and generally easier to install. There is a single jumper wire needed to complete the crank circuit around the automatic's inhibitor switch. Just a soldered 12 gauge wire about 3" long pushed into the two corresponding pins on the harness connector for the autmatic selector mechanism (which will be gone). It's very easy really to do the conversion. You are going to swap a transmission anyway, so why not do the one that will last? GD

Yes - but burying people is sadistic, and burying trash is.... well they make nice golf courses out of it . I didn't minimize anything. It's for illustration only, and in no way reflects any differences in the way the trash is stored or processes. It would be a *normal* landfill with the trash taking the same amount of volumetric space as in any other landfill in use today. It's to put the amount of trash produced into a perspective against the backdrop of the size of the continental US. There are still a LOT of people that believe the statement made by the former EPA director J. Winston Porter: "We are running out of places to dispose of our trash". This is ridiculous, and patently false. He took into account ONLY the number of landfills and not their size. Failing to see that our total "landfill capacity" was actually increasing despite their numbers declining. Trash is an interstate commercial trade - all 50 states export the stuff, and nearly as many import it. We are NOT, nor were we ever, running out of landfill space. It's by far the most economical, and environmentally sound way to dispose of trash. Especially compared to the previous methods used through history. From dumping it out the window into the streets where it was picked through by "rag dealers", to burning, stewing, or incineration. Actually the first thing AA does is tell you that you are powerless, and to appeal to a higher power for salvation. They are a religious organization. One that is often (wrongly IMO - what happend to seperation of church and state? Guess it doesn't apply to the criminal....) used by the courts as punishment. The first three of the 12 steps illustrate my point: 1. We admitted we were powerless over alcohol—that our lives had become unmanageable. 2. Came to believe that a Power greater than ourselves could restore us to sanity. 3. Made a decision to turn our will and our lives over to the care of God. That's some foolishness right there! Also AA does not publish their statistics on how sucessful their program is. They don't have to as they are a private organization. One wonders about that - must not have much good publicity value in those numbers Independant studdies have shown the rate of relapse is almost certainly over 90%. Similar studies have shown that people who attempt to quit without any outside assistance have a success rate of..... you guessed it - about 10%. So do they really help people? Well they certainly make it easier to carry your (now lighter) wallet. The impact of our population is a given. My point is that nothing we do or try to do, short of wiping out a couple billion people, will have any noticeable effect. The impact is directly correlated to the number of people on this planet. They all have to eat, and poop, and watch the Simpsons. The effects of a population the size of ours are so overwhelmingly large that no small changes are going to have any effect whatsoever on the outcome. I'm not arguing that we AREN'T making a huge, hairy mess - I'm saying that cleaning it up is futile. Men are just bears with furniture, and there aren't enough houswives on this poor planet to clean up the industrial size disaster of a home we live in. I have no doubt that those numbers are staggering. Seriously - give CSPAN a try sometime. It will give you new perspective on some of your elected officials. Especially those from your home state. Pay attention to their viewpoints. Risk? Well I suppose if you want to live in fear of risk then you can have it. I am a top-down kind of guy I guess. I would rather work on the big issues first - worring about the cat on some guys 20 year old beater in the countryside..... not high on the list. Worring about what politician's are doing with my thousands of dollars of tax money is..... casting your vote and electing the right person to steer this ship is a far more effective use of your time. Getting someone that will be tough on China for all the pollution they cause for example..... educate yourself about such matters, because as long as your spare time is spent watching stand-up comedy, your complaints about some teracotta-toothed hillbilly gutting the cat on his 80's econo-box will fall on deaf ears. GD

Lubing will not help a worn out inner cable sheath. It will only help a dry cable. GD

There's folks boosting EJ22G's to 30 psi. That's about the limit though. 16 isn't much at all for that block. GD