GeneralDisorder

You can get rid of some of the AT (automatic) related wires if you use a manual ECU. If you can live with some codes, and a CEL that's on most of the time some of the others can go without causing "limp" mode, but there's very few overall, and having a functioning CEL is more than worth the few extra wires to be run. Since you are dealing with a self-diagnostic ECU you really can't remove anything without it complaining about it, and get it to throw enough codes are you are bound to hit some sort of default map for ignition or fuel. Sadly there is no way to know how many or which ones could be safely disconnected without causing a performance issue as we have no way of looking inside the ECU. If it was me I would be using MegaSquirt. But that's me. GD

Depends on the year. Carbed should be close enough to work with some rewiring for 85/86 flapper MAF. Totally different for 87+ hot wire MAF. Cannot be made to work in any way as these have Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) distributors, not hall-effect. GD

+1 But people are scared to do this. Head gaskets have been blown up to such mythical proportions that just the mention of them makes people run for the hills. Funny how a head gasket job has never cost me more than $100 and an afternoon. Not to mention the security of knowing it's done right, and with quality parts.... They are *just* gaskets afterall . GD

I have no doubt you could. Cut a notch in that last crank pulley groove and wrap a pull-rope around it. Might be the antichrist to start that way when it's cold though. GD

Vacuum leak at the carb base or primary throttle shaft would do that. Incorrectly operating accelerator pump might do that. Basically the carb is having difficulty transitioning from the idle circuit to the slow speed circuit. GD

The "main" and "auxiliary" diaphragms in that picture above are for the choke pull-off mechanism. The vacuum line he is looking for is not in that diagram as it's part of the diagram for the carb itself. That is the diagram for the engine. He needs a cross-sectional view of the carb itself. But it's not that hard to find. Look at the back of the carb and it should be obvious. The hose is only 3" long. GD

The EA82 vacuum for the secondary throttle plate is ON the carb. It's a very sharply bent hose that's about 3" long and comes from the passenger side of the carb, and over to the secondary diaphragm on the back of the carb. It makes basically a 90 degree turn to do it, and they often crack because of this sharp bend. GD

They are called "vanity" plates for a reason. I'll bathe and generally wear deoderant.... if I don't ill offend myself.... but the woman, and everyone else is generally lucky if I do anything more. I shave a couple times a week just because it itches. I guess appearances just aren't my bag. Vanity plates have never crossed my mind - for one I wouldn't want to give the state more of my hard earned money for them. They get enough as it is. GD

I couldn't recall if they fit either way or not. I suspect that some trimming might be required if you are going one way, and none is required if you go the other..... but I wanted it to be known. GD

No, it's not an SS scoop. Ask Calebz - that's his car afterall. GD

Yep - the idea is to not allow the heat to migrate into the "next layer" before you get a chance to start beating. Expand the outside, and pound on the still cool inside - the temperature DIFFERENCE is what is important, not that absolute application of heat. That's also why a BIG torch works best. It can throw down more heat at a faster rate. This allows you to get the hot part hotter, while the migration of heat to the next layer is still trying to catch up. A few well placed sharp blows from a chisel will also expand the hot metal and assist in this process. It does take a bit of experience to get this right most times. But it also depends on the size of torch. I can get to RED hot in about 10 seconds or less with the torch at work. I routinely take apart press fit pump impellers with our 10,000 lb shop press using it. Sometimes takes 20 or 30 minutes of continuous heating and pressure but those assemblies weigh around 100 lbs or more. GD

Sure - with the proper socket, and my 480 ft/lbs impact they come right off. Generally I don't even have to bend the tabs out. But the natives here don't know from rust. I saw some once while I was on vacation to Hawaii..... :-p GD

He speaks from experience...... you don't even know. I've met him in person.... as in he was HERE on the west coast at the time. For a Subaru show of course. That was like WCSS4 I think.... Fox - you are sure are getting up there in the post count. I remember reading about your first trashwagon.... before you ever owned a Subaru. Good times man. Let us know what you are up to some time (in OT of course). GD

All manual turbo's are the same axle. A manual RX uses the same axle as a manual turbo wagon, or a manual turbo XT. I don't beleive there were 3AT RX's, so that's a non-issue. 4EAT RX's use the same axle as well - 25 spline inner joint EA82 shaft. So basically all RX axles are equal. And they are the same as all 4EAT (only came on the turbo) and Manual Turbo's. All used the 25 spline axle. The only turbo's that this doesn't apply to would be the 3AT turbo's. GD

Those pumps are pretty rugged. And they do make a whining noise that can be heard in the cabin. That's more of a function of the amount of sound insulation in the Loyale, and that the pump is outside the tank. Most pumps are audible under these circumstances. I can hear all of my Subaru's pumps with the possible exception of my Legacy. I can also hear the injection pump on the '72 VW Squareback - it is similarly located outside the tank under the car (but in the front). Get a fuel pressure guage and plumb it into the system. SPFI should be a constant pressure of 21 psi. If you get much less than that under any condition then you either have a filter problem, a pump problem, or a bad regulator on the side of the TB. Verify timing (both valve and ignition), fuel, and compression. One of those will explain your power loss. If it were me I would be pulling the outer covers and verifying valve timing, and taking a compression test after that. Followed by ignition timing and fuel delivery. If you still have issues run a D-Check to have the ECU diagnose the SPFI system. GD

This is the one: From here: http://shoptoolsshoptools.com/shopexd.asp?id=1156 GD

That *might* work. But it looks like it's too thin and would shear off.... the ones specifically for Subaru rear ring nuts are like 1/4" thick. It's worth a try, but as you have seen beating on it with a chisel - that ring nut is a seriously stuck bastard, and it's none too small or thin or wimpy either. I think it would eat that woosy socket for breakfast. GD

First thing that ever broke on me was on my '84 wagon. Distributor shaft bushings. Classic failure, tach jumping, etc. Thought I was up a creek cause the cheapest I could find rebuilt was $165.... had it rebuilt at Philbin for $55. That was in 2002.... I still own the car, and the distributor is still in it . GD

Not worth fixing. Too cheap used. Also depends on the type of pump you have. Some have the pulley held on differently. GD

Nope. Probably. Belt longevity isn't why we run without covers. Belts are cheap, my time isn't. If it shortens the life of the belts by 10,000 miles that's fine - I would rather replace them every 40k and have it take 20 minutes than replace them every 50k and have it take 3 hours. GD

Sadly no one is going to carry that socket . It's very much specific to Subaru rear wheel bearings. Clean the area around the nut really well, and insure that you have bent back all of the locations that are bent into the notches in the ring nut. You CAN get it out. Remember that. First thing is to heat the control arm up AROUND the nut. Don't apply heat to the nut, but instead apply it to the outside of the control arm. Do it as quickly as you can so all the heat doesn't migrate to the nut. An oxy/acetelene torch is best, but a map gas hand torch will sometimes work. Once you have got it pretty hot, release the rust hold on the threads by making four notches around the outside of the bearing housing right over the ring nut threads with a sharp blow from a chisel. This will expand the metal and allow you to turn the ring nut out. Another alternative to replacing the rear bearing is to get a whole rear control arm with a good used bearing in it. I've swapped control arms many times as they are cheaper than the $50 that a bearing costs . GD

Fuel filters are your first step. GD

Right, but on all the rest the injectors are in the manifold. So that really only applies to those weird EA81T heads.... GD

The FSM's vary in what they refer to it as - depends on the year and the translation/translator I would assume. My point was that it's function is more complex than what is indicated by the term "rev sensor". For that matter it also "senses" the ignition switch posistion. And it does have logic - depending on it's input, it decides what to do. It's simple, and hard coded, yes. But it is "logic" - all that really applies to here is that the device controls it's output based on several inputs. It is boolean, and is only interested in true/false. GD

To clarify, this is not a simple "rev sensor" as folks lately have continued to call it. It is a "Fuel Pump Control Unit" and contains logic that runs the pump for a specified time interval when the ignition is switched to run then shuts it off if it doesn't see a tach signal. Additionally it supplys power to the pump when the key is in the "start" posistion and the engine is cranking. It is more than a simple rev sensor. GD