GeneralDisorder

No, but it will bolt right in. I bought an 83 DL wagon a long time ago that had been converted to D/R. It's just what they could find when they needed a tranny for it (somewhere north of 300k). GD

Not all of them. It's a year dependant thing I think. GD

Because it's just a lot easier to start with a car that's already got a Dual Range, Tach, Oil Pressure, and Voltage gauges. Plus the EA82 isn't suited to off-road conditions like the EA81 is. The timing belts are small and weak, and they are more difficult and time consuming to work on for very little gain in power over the EA81. Some will argue, but that's my opinion. The rear hatch glass on the 3 door is heavy and difficult to find should you break it. Also a drawback IMO. GD

Almost all D/R's were 3.9 - which is made more likely by the 23 spline axles. The only D/R's that were 3.7 were on the turbo RX's. But they have 25 spline axles, so your's isn't one of those. Another way to tell is with the ratio of the low range gear. The RX's low range was only 1.2:1 instead of 1.5:1. There ARE part time and Full Time RX's tranny's out there - 86's had the part time, and 87+ had the full time. Best thing to do is to put the car up with two wheels on the same side off the ground. Put the car in 5th gear and turn the engine over by hand. See if the wheels rotate a different amount. GD

If it's a 5 speed, then yes it's an EA82 "3 Door Coupe"..... looks a bit like an old school 80's Integra Have you seen an RX? Same body but it would have the DL trim which means no body kit, quad sealed beam headlights, etc. Wouldn't be a real good choice for an lifted rig IMO. Not short like a hatch, wrong motor, and wrong transmission. Lack of guages in the DL trim, etc. Would need a lot of work to make it usable to my standards anyway. GD

It won't hurt anything other than annoy you with the CEL. The main purpose behind the switches is telling the ECU how to react when the vehicle is rolling vs. stopped. If the car is rolling and IN gear then the ECU can use this information along with the information from the TPS to determine fuel trim. In fact if the car is coasting down a hill with no throttle (but in gear) the ECU will actually shut off the injector. Closed throttle coasting uses NO fuel this way (unlike a carb). But it will not adversely effect your engine, mileage, or emissions. The point of hooking them up (which I covered in my write up) is that the ECU may not properly report diagnostic codes if other codes are present. Certain parts of the diagnostic tests run in D-Check and even possibly in U-Check may be skipped based on codes that are already stored. We don't know or have any way to look at the source code for these ECU's so to be SAFE I reccomend that all signals be properly hooked up. Besides - having a functional CEL that you aren't ignoreing because you *think* you know what code it's refering to is the smart, and responsible way to travel. GD

Absolutely zero difference as far as I can tell. They run virtually the same. Your's is not, but all 4WD GL non-turbo EA82's had them. DL's had the push button, and the turbo's had the push button, the 4WD D/R with the higher low (86 RX's), the FT4WD with diff lock, or the FT4WD D/R (again with higher low) and diff lock (87 to 89 RX's). Loyale's had the push button only. After 89 the D/R was discontinued in the US. If you want one, you need to look for an 88 or 89 as those are sure to have the neutral switch. 85 through 87 were mostly carbed and did not come with the switch - before you ask, no it's not possible to add it. (unless you do some weird fabrication with the linkages like I did). But the stock 88+ switch won't work without major modification to the tranny. The tranny's are the same with regard to their input to the ECU from 88 on. It's the clutch pedal switch that the GL's don't have that makes their ECU nicer for this swap. You have two switches that the Loyale needs - the neutral switch, and the clutch switch. If you have an EA81 tranny or an EA82 tranny that doesn't have the neutral switch then you can adapt the clutch switch from a cruise control equipped EA81 to work as the neutral switch - that's fine for the GL ECU, but the Loyale ECU is still looking for the clutch switch as well.... which you ostensibly used to fool the neutral switch circuit - so now what? See the problem? That's why I don't use those ECU's. You could if you fabbed a switch on the linkage like I did, but the clutch switch works opposite of the CC one, so you might need a whole pedal assembly from an EA82..... basically just dive in and worry about this later as none of this will prevent you from starting or driving the car. You just want to fix it eventually as it can make diagnostics a pain if it's throwing codes for this stuff. Actually the push button trannys are quite reliable all things considered. But they are single range. Pay attention now - here it comes...... ALL dual range tranny's are lever action. But the one you want will come from an 88 or 89 as it will be fully compatible with the neutral switch for the SPFI. GD

Call discount import parts in Beaverton. Their parts are OEM or equivelent, and last time I bought one it was a Paraut. I've bought EA82 oil pumps there for around $80 to $100. GD

Oh, and yes the Loyale parts you got are fine. Everything will work fine but you may want to eventually source a "black" ECU from a later 80's GL so you don't have to deal with the clutch pedal switch. You will still have to do something about the neutral switch. Which reminds me that I need to update my page with my "new" fix for that. Instead of using the pedal switch, I actually built a switch that works off the linkage. It's not something that's neccesary, but I was bored one day I guess. If my camera weren't broken, I would take pics of it GD

Only thing I haven't added to my page is more detail on the wiring (it's all there, I would just like to lay it out better and in a bit more detail about each circuit), and the problems/solutions in reference to using the stock carburated fuel tank. The stock fuel tank doesn't contain baffles to prevent the sloshing of fuel. This is an issue for the SPFI. When the fuel level gets down around 1/4 tank the fuel can slosh away from the pickup and the pump will almost instantly depressurize the injector. Thus the engine sputters and dies out. Either a fuel tank from a fuel injected EA81 (Turbo wagon, coupe or Brat) needs to be retrofit (none of them fit a Hatch though) or a surge tank needs to be added. I made one from some ideas I found searching around on the internet. I used a filter housing for an under-sink water filter from home depot and modified it to fit my needs. The idea is to have a long, thin cylinder (8" deep x 3" wide or so works) and run the fuel into it from the tank using the stock carb fuel pump. Then from this tank you pump to the injectors. I haven't installed it yet, but the principle is well documented, and it's just a matter of building it to suit your needs. Likely the location/design of the thing wouldn't be the same in my Brat as a Hatch anyway. But just so you know, and are thinking about it. It's not something that has to be done right away - you can drive fine without it but be aware you may not be able to use the last 1/4 of your tank reliably without it. GD

Probably doesn't know squat about Subarus. The timing marks are on every flywheel. You do have to remove a rubber cover to see them. He is probably used to seeing them on the crank pulley. The valve and ignition timing marks are on the flywheel, and on the cam sprockets. Hard to say how he tested it. Or if his gauge is accurate. Then he has no idea how to run a D-Check, or what connectors to use to put the car in test mode. If he knew that he would also know that the CEL doesn't report anything - all reporting is done through the LED on the side of the ECU under the dash. As I said - timeing - ignition and valve. Go from there. Buy a haynes manual at least. GD

Most of that is acedemic for Carfreak though - if he's speaking about his EA81 turbo wagon, then he has sealed beams. That means new enclosures and I'm sure someone makes them that are designed for HID's. Putting HID inside existing headlight housings not designed for it are one thing..... but entirely not applicable to his situation. I see no problems with running properly designed HID's if the projector housings are used and aimed properly. It should be no different than OEM except of course there won't be a suspension connected leveling system for them. But a lot of early OEM HID's didn't have leveling anyway. GD

It's not in the wiper motor harness. IIRC, it's in the portion of the harness that swings around the front at the bottom of the radiator to supply the headlights and markers, etc. It then enters the fender wall somewhere under the air-box area and goes to the washer motor. You should be able to access the washer motor from the underside by pulling back the splash sheild inside the fender. GD

It's part of the pump - you have to buy the whole thing. The plate is not availible seperately. Next time don't pry so hard - twist and pull gently. Use the filter as a handle. Tap gently to get it started twisting. The good news is that the pump's generally require replacement around every 100k miles or so. The EA81's definately benefit from a new pump. The EA82's and up don't need replacement as often it seems like. 20+ psi pressure at hot idle is what you want. GD

That page is poorly layed out, and possibly incorrect on a couple points. I think you are under the impression that there is a size difference in the EA81's. That is incorrect. EA81 = 1800cc EA71 = 1600cc ALWAYS. GD

You can always hear oil in them - they are oil filled for cooling puposes. It shouldn't leak though. Test it before replacing it. You test primary and secondary coil resistances. GD

Big valve/small valve, yeah. 83+ has larger intake valves. They rated them 1 HP higher. 83/84 Auto's and all 85+ have hydro lifters. GD

AS I SAID - Federal Mogul is the best for what you are asking. Fel-Pro/Sealed Power and OEM are the only acceptible components/gaskets for the EA series engines. Unless you want performance parts - then you should talk with RAM engines. GD

82 GL 4WD would be an EA81. They didn't put EA71's in the 4WD GL's after 81. GD

Fuel pressure should be 21 psi. If it's low it's probably NOT the pressure regulator. They just don't fail. Never seen or heard of such a thing on the SPFI. It could be the pump, or a clogged filter or pickup in the tank. My bet is that he simply doesn't know the proper pressure for the SPFI, or is just making things up. The distributors rarely fail in these as either - it's an optical crank angle sensor, and they have pin bearings on the shafts - not likely to fail either. I say you probably have a timing or sensor issue. Have the mechanic pull the codes and verify that the static ignition timing is correct, and then pull the outer belt covers (three bolts each) and make sure both the belts are unbroken, have no stripped teeth, and the valve timing marks are properly aligned. Then go from there. Incidentally his prices for the parts are ASTRONOMICAL. I wouldn't deal with this shop in any way. GD

Basically, yes. But really, the development of the Subaru "transaxle" has been one of continous improvement. They have made a lot of changes. The 5 speed was itself an obvious enhancement to the 4 speed 4WD and the 5 speed FWD. They redesigned the 4WD "interface" in order to fit in the extra gear. Really, like most manufacturers, Subaru has taken old designs that proved reliable and functional, and improved along the way. There is very little difference from an 87 RX "Full Time 4WD" 5 speed and an EJ series "All Wheel Drive" 5 speed though. So he was actually more correct than you might think. Other than the bell-housing, and the center diff/viscous coupleing they are hard to tell apart. GD

Major differences are between GL and DL, not between the different body styles. DL/STD are a lot different in the dash and steering column so you are going to want to stick with GL parts if you have a GL, or DL if the Brat's got no t-tops (if it's an auto, then things get messy). The doors (and thus the door panels) are coupe/Brat/Hatch. Wagon and Sedan doors are shorter. Everything behind the seats is Brat specific. The A-Pillar molding on the passenger side is specific to Brats, as is the Oh-Poop "strap" and it's hook. Everything skyward of the windsheild is Brat specific - especially the GL's with the Halo-Twin roof. Consoles and shifter boots, etc have to come from a 4WD to fit properly. The tranmission tunnel sheet metal is physically different and the hole is in a different spot vs. 2WD's. That's about the size of it..... I can't think of anything else that's different off the top of my head. Door glass is Brat specific as well but you didn't mention needing that. There's a lot of outside stuff (mostly past the doors toward the back end) that is different too, but you didn't mention that either. When you get fenders be sure they are 83 or newer. 82's have the wrong sided antenna, and 80/81 are different in the headlight surround area as well as haveing the wrong sided antenna. GD

It will, because the EA81 AC fan is a LOT thinner than the regular fan on the passenger side. In fact it's one of the thinnest stock radiator fans I've ever seen. GD

Ok - lets clarify all the misinformation here .9 bar = 13 psi. EA82's and EA81's made AFTER 1983 use the SAME cap (for that matter, so do EJ22's). 82 and older use a larger cap. You have an 80 to 82 radiator (probably aftermarket). The pressure is the same. Get a cap for a 1982.... anything. You'll be in business. GD