GeneralDisorder

The cost is close to what a new radiator cost. Radiator/cooler service is for larger, more expensive, or more exotic coolers. GD

Sorry - Gloyale is right. Electric fan works with the coolant thermo-sensor. Mechanical fan is for the AC. I get mixed up sometimes with the EA82's - Subaru changed a lot of stuff from the EA81's.... found out it didn't work and changed it back on the EJ's. Go figure You could change over to double electric fans - that's what the EA81's and the EJ's have. Mechanical fans are a pain. GD

Yes - your 89 is *really* an 84 for all intents and purposes. Nothing changed between 84 and 89 with the EA81 series. It's not that the dealer is "discontinueing" anything. It's that the parts warehouses just don't have them and they aren't going to make more. The car has exceeded it's lifetime as far as the dealer is concerned and there's no profit in makeing those parts again. Once they run out, that's it. Your best bet for a lot of the non mechanical stuff is to hit the junk yards and start collecting all the parts you can find. Again - 1980 to 1984 vehicles are the parts that will interchange for you. 85 to 87 they still made Brat's and Hatchbacks, then only the Hatch in 88/89. You can also ask on the board here. There's lots of us out on the west coast with access to a LOT more parts than the east coast has. My parts collection is huge, and doesn't seem to be decreaseing..... GD

Usually I don't.... saves the aluminium block threads from wear..... You can if you wish. Just double-nut them and they will come right out. A razor blade and a 3M pad with brake cleaner will clean the surfaces up good. Yes, but most people don't. Add a few extra pounds. Instead of 47 (or is it 57??), go with 55 ft/lbs (or was it 65??) as your final torque. Just make sure the threads are chased in the nuts (and rocker bolts) and that the studs have been wire wheeled and properly oiled for torqueing. Niether required or reccomended. This is the route I personally go as these gaskets are VERY tough. I love every set I've used. GD

I HAVE been to Tahoe.... and Reno, Seattle, Portland, etc, etc. Hell I was in Tahoe last weekend. You DO NOT have more Subaru's than OR and WA. Sorry. In fact I noticed a distinct lack of them according to the "Portland, OR" calibration of my finely tuned Subaru radar. Not that they didn't exist, but I only saw a measly one or two EA81's, and a handful of EA82's. More legacy's and outbacks but not every third car as it is here. Lots of SUV's and a disturbing number of vehicles that were obviously not locals due to their "2WDness" Seattle and Portland are probably the two Subaru "mecca's". Both have way too many to even try and compare the two. I do tend to see more EA series in Seattle when I'm up there, but it's really a toss up and depends on what neighborhood you are in, and other factors. Both have Subaru only shops, and both have tons and tons of Subaru's in the yards. I have 6 yards I hit - all of them have regularly have DOZENS of EA82's alone. Usually a handful of EA81's and a couple handfuls of EJ's. That's at EACH yard. It's hard to describe it to people that have never been here. They are so plentiful that they keep following me home. I've got 6 at once now and counting.... GD

AC only. GD

Stock Weber jetting for street engines... 140/140 mains 160/170 air bleeds 50 or 55 idle jet(s) GD

Increasing the diameter of the supplys will decrease the pressure. It's very touchy actually as the decrease is not linear with respect to galley diameter. You will rapidly approach the point where no stock or modified pump will be able to supply it sufficiently. Deleting the HLA's is all well and good, but they are not the only consumer's of oil pressure. The conn. rod bearings and the crank mains also require pressure to overcome the force of combustion forcing them downward. Too little pressure and the oil film will collapse and you will have very short lived rod bearings. To a lesser extent the mains will also suffer. Anything much below 15 psi hot is to be avoided. And that's at the extreme low end. Personally I would want to see 20 or more. GD

There really is no such thing as "power steering fluid" It's hydraulic fluid, or in the automotive world it's "Automatic transmission fluid". Subaru's used Dexron ATF for power steering. It will say that on the cap. Whining indicates the pump is cavitating - you have air in your system either because the fluid is low, or there is a leak in the hydrualic lines or seals (which usually means the fluid is low ) GD

For me - 3 hours - open hood to close hood. I remove the radiator - might as well seeing you have to drain the coolant for the WP anyway. For you - probably more like 4 or 5 hours having never done it before. Realistically I always take about 25% to 50% longer the first time, and about 10% to 25% longer the second time. After I've done a job twice it usually continues to get faster by a bit till I reach some kind of equalibrium around the 10th or 20th time. That's what I've come up with numbers wise wrenching everyday... Sorry to say this just won't work. The cams are under tension from the valves, and will not hold a solid position once the belts are removed. They WILL move and there's really nothing you can do about it short of making a special tool to keep them stationary at whatever point they happen to be at. The cams are under a LOT of tension. They will "jump" as you turn them when the valves force cam lobes to spin. So much tension you will probably injure yourself if you try to move them by hand. I use a 3/8" breaker bar with a 10mm on the cam sprocket bolts to turn them where I want them. Just put one straight up, and one straight down and throw the belts on (with the center valve timing mark aligned on the flywheel). Then put the #1 cylinder at TDC compression then back off to 20 BTDC on the flywheel marks. Point the disty at the #1 plug tower. Should fire right up and require only minimal adjustment (if any) if you do it that way. GD

I missed the part about the stop-leak stuff initially..... I tried it ONCE.... worthless. And I had to replace the heater core for my effort. It can and does clog everything in sight so you may need to replace the radiator at this point. $150 is a bit high - check ebay. Frankly unless you have a turbo I don't feel there is a need for the dual core's. It's nice but if money is an issue then a stock replacement should get you going again. GD

The N/A heads rarely crack. If you are careful, and patient, you won't overheat it at all. It's a procedure, and you can stop at any time if you find it is not working (IE: temp gauge too high). He lives in CA - his radiator is almost certainly still good. While a dual core is nice, it's most likely uneccesary for him. At any rate there's no point in wanton replacement of parts without first eliminating possible air in the system. GD

Yeah - it seems to be mostly an EA82 problem. With the EJ22 they realized what a pain this is and added an "air release" plug that you remove while filling the radiator. It's on the opposite end of the radiator over the top of the upper hose. You can accomplish this with the EA82 by slightly pulling off the upper hose where it connects to the radiator and allowing air bubbles to escape while you are filling it. Makes a mess of course, but if you have about 4 hands you can do it without much trouble. GD

Dieseling is normal when the Weber is installed by people that have no idea what they are doing. On stock engines, there really should be no need for an anti-deiseling solenoid. Mostly those are useful for race engines that have mixture settings designed for WOT most of the time. Idle mixture, idle speed, and timing are the key components. If these three are correct, there will not be any deiseling. Bogging in second sounds like the carb is having a hard time transitioning from the idle circuit to the main circuit. Possibly the accelerator pump, or a vacuum leak near the throttle shafts or carb base. Could be a lot of things really. If you want to sort it out, you'll just have to learn about Weber's and probably end up redoing the install if not tearing the carb down and putting it back together *correctly*. GD

Replace the thermostat with an OEM on general principle. They are about $12 from the dealer, so don't cheap out on any aftermarket products. They aren't the same. Then get the air out of your system. It's the air bubble's that are causing your problem. You need to "burp" the system. It takes time and patience to do it right. Massage the radiator hoses while filling the system with the car slightly uphill. There needs to be NO air in the system for it to perform correctly. GD

Everyone comes here on equal ground. My policy is to assume that everyone is equal to me unless they prove otherwise. It was Samuel Clemens that said: "It is best to keep your mouth shut and be presumed ignorant than to open it and remove all doubt." GD

Duplicate.

1983 FSM. Actually I looked it up for him. I can take a picture if you really want. GD

What exactly does being an "employe.because" (whatever the hell that is ) have to do with anything? And for your information pal, Brian was one of the founding principles of this fine forum. He also was an "employe.because", to use your quaint, misspelled/ill-punctuated version of the term, for a very long time. GD

I agree - Subaru's aren't for towing. The only towing that is semi-safe is flat towing another vehicle using a strap as long as the towed vehicle has operable brakes. If you REALLY had to setup a trailer for use by a Subaru, it would have to be both very light (2000 lbs or lighter) AND have electric trailer brakes. I do not know of any trailers this small that are so equipped but it would not be difficult to build one. They may be for sale, but all the trailers I deal with at work that are generally larger, and MUCH heavier (10,000 lbs+) are equipped with electric brakes. I also deal with this stuff every day. I setup single and tandem axle trailers to suit the needs of various types of rental equipment ranging from 1,000 to 20,000 lbs dry weight (not including trailer, or fuel) as part of my overall duties. Ultimately, lots of people do it and get away with it. But it's not the everyday driving that will bite you. It's the emergency stops, or the hard swerve to miss a stray dog, etc that will hurt you. Control under these circumstances is imperative, and it simply cannot be achieved with the weight of a Subaru unless you are towing something so light that it could probably either be stowed in the back, or strapped to the roof anyway. The point is that just because you have done it, and nothing has happened, doesn't make it a wise thing to advise others to do. Strapping the trailer to the roof rack though..... GD

No problem. Glad that worked out for you. I can understand how you would need higher RPM for running certain accesories - heck that's why that solenoid exists anyway, because the demand of the AC compressor requires more fuel. The alternator's all put out more Amp's the faster you spin them too. GD

Make sure the belts are on correctly first. Instead of turning the engine over after the first belt, just put one mark straight up, and the other straight down and install both belts. Remove the #1 plug and turn over till you feel air past your finger. Put the flywheel at 0 and that's TDC on #1 compression. Turn the flywheel back to 20 degrees BTDC, and align the rotor on the distributor with whichever post you want to be the #1 plug wire on the cap. Order the plug wires 1-3-2-4. Note that depending on which post you use as #1, there are 4 correct ways to install the distributor. Fire it up. GD

The computer isn't bad - it just can't compensate for a poorly functioning sensor. Once it realizes that this sensor is out of spec, it ignores the input from it and runs in "limp mode". I agree that you are probably looking at a temp sensor. They are around $35 to $50 depending on where you get one. Check the codes first to determine the exact problem. GD

So install a D/R on your Loyale. It's really quite easy. GD

Ok - perhaps partially working then. But only on the EA82's. The EA81's trip computer is built into the cluster so it can't be made to work. GD