GeneralDisorder

It doesn't - but the sharp blow works like an impact - you can just let it spin as it will impart most of it's energy into loosening the nut. Some will be spent spinning the hub too. I just line it up and hit it - rinse, repeat. GD

VW axle nut removal tool - the rear of pre-1964 buses use the same size (36mm) as the EA subaru's. Except they are torqued to 250 lbs - a full 100 lbs more than a Subaru. The VW guys developed this "hand impact" for removing them, and it works very well for Subarus too. One end gets a 1/2" breaker bar (or not - I don't use anything), and then you pound on it with a BFH. I use a copper mallet as it gives a clean dead blow, and doesn't bounce much. For $9, even if you do the occasional axle job, it's well worth having. The axle nut is so large, than ever a fairly powerful air impact will not usually loosen them - and if you have an electric impact - forget it. Never tried the flywheel lock... where would you mount it on a soob? I generally bump the starter, or I'll thread rope down a cylinder. GD

I never have this fabled "removal problem" - at least not anymore. Don't leave home without it. http://bfyobsoleteparts.com/volkswagen/files/master/thumbs/t_9530.jpg With one, you can simply hold the hub in your hand, and use this like an impact. Works every time, and it's fast. GD

If they didn't tick before it sat, everything else being equal, clogged lifters is not your problem. They are worn, and their pressure is slowly escapeing like an old tire. Dumping extra cleansers in your engine only serves to accelerate the wear, and possibly loosen up contaminates that WILL clog things like your oil filter and PCV system. Personally I'm of the opinion that if it wasn't in the oil recommended by Subaru, it shouldn't be in the engine. The engine, assuming oil changed every 7,000 miles, and the filter every 15,000, should not be dirty enough to ever need a "flush" or any special cleansing additives for the lifetime of the engine - unless you recently ran through a volcanic eruption or are running without an air filter or something equally stupid. Once you reach 300,000 it's likely going to need a new bottom end anyway, and flushing it would just stir up all the metal and bits of bearing, and accelerate the wear factor ever more. No - it's better to be safe, and just use OIL - it's already got detergents in it. The best fix for lifters that can't stay quiet is...... NEW lifters, and a NEW oil pump. There is a place someone linked to a while back that can rebuild them too.... GD

Lifters get worn, and after sitting for a while can "bleed down" or lose pressure. Officially Subaru states that it can take up to 4 hours (of running) for all the air to excape from the lifters and stop the ticking. I've had it take a couple hundred miles on EA81's after replacing the oil pump for the ticking to stop. GD

Knowing subaru's is a qualification for "a good shop" and any shop that knows the EA82 should know it takes 2-3 hours tops for a clutch job. The going rate for labor is $80 an hour for high end OEM dealership work. Less for the "corner garage". As any mechnic knows, it's not the "title" of the job that sets the price, it's the complexity and time plus materials. On other tranverse mounted vehicles it very well might take a lot longer. Have you even thought that for that price you could easily buy the few tools you need to do the job (set of wrenches, and sockets and stuff - for that price you could get a nice craftsman set) - have a friend help pull the engine (a peice of 4x4, and a chain works very well). Then next time you have something go wrong you'll be equipped for it. GD

I would expect you to say that - can't even spell an acronym composed of two, three and four letter words :cool: GD

OMG! That's like $120 per hour. That's more than high end dealerships charge.... find a shop that's not going to rape you pal. GD

There are already several sets of copper HG's out there - people have already had them made, and they are not that expensive. They leak like crazy, and I woudn't use them anyway. With the o-ring's you just use standard gaskets. Fel-Pro is my choice. I understand where you are comming from, but the cometics are not needed. Subaru made rally engine conversion kits for the EA82T rated at about 175 HP on stock gaskets. It's a matter of doing things the right way, and watching the temps and fluids. Engine management is the key to reliable power. GD

Even figureing $50 each pcs, that's $25,000. You can o-ring a crap-load of blocks for that kind of money. Compression ratio can be changed other ways too. GD

Go to the junk yard and find the most mangled, wrecked, demolished soob you can find and yank the engine forward. This will both save you money and give you experience for the job a hand. If your disc is worn out, have the flywheel turned, and find a good pressure plate and disc from the junk yard. I pay around $20 for the whole clutch/flywheel assembly around here. Added advantage that you can have the flywheel turned and ready to go so you don't have to wait for shop turn-around. Start to finish it's about 2-3 hours with a hoist - maybe a little more without, but not bad with two guys. GD

Everything is flammable if you get it hot enough. GD

It's the type of disty you use - not the manifold. If you are using a disty with a vac can, then it will need grinding. Slap it on and have a look for yourself. GD

It's not the splines, it's the ball joint and strut mounts. And yes - it won't work. GD

I think I heard that too - interestingly, the SPFI manifold (which uses the same upper hose, and similar thermostat housing) fits just fine with no grinding or mods...... wait actually maybe that's because the disty has no vacuum advance can for the fuel injection.... But yeah - use an EA82 *lower* radiator hose in place of the upper hose when using with the EA81 radiator. GD

Good luck finding an EA82 manual rack. Almost all were power. The power rack in my EA81 wagon is easier to steer with no PS belt than the manual rack in my Brat. That said, I did drive an EA82 manual once, and I couldn't tell it didn't have power. Was very smooth - much better than the EA81 manual racks. GD

It's only harmful if you breath the burnt vapor - at least that's how I understand it. GD

Use the search for the emmissions stuff - been covered. Short story - no. EA81? You can just leave the PP loose, and tighten it through the starter hole in the bell-housing. Easier, no need for the pilot tool, and I've had the pilot tools "fail" and spent two hours trying to get the damn engine on. So now I never use them. Don't even own one anymore. GD

Yeah - and it can kill you if you light it on fire. GD

Sure - but a few junk yard bits, and some 'freeze, and it should work again. There really isn't a lot to the systems, and it's mostly the compressor or the o-rings that die GD

Just depress the check ball on the pressure side of the compressor a tiny bit - you'll know real quick if anything is in there. Me - I just vent that crap (yeah - I'm no bunny hugger - sue me), and fill with R134. Make sure you replace ALL the o-rings tho. GD

Simple - Lincoln locker. I run one. Works fabulous..... ARB makes one for the R200 (used in the STi, and many, many Nissan and datsun Z car application) - with a divorced t-case this shouldn't be real difficult for you to fab up using cheap adaptors from rockford CV. Another option that apparently goes into the R160 without much modifiction (a bit if machineing I'm told) is the VW vanagon syncro air locker - I've found a source, but it's in Bend, OR and a bit expensive. If you can catch one in a junk yard tho it shouldn't be terribly difficult. The early Audi cars (Pre-5000 series from what I understand) had electrically motivated lockers in the diffs of the quattro package). They also had a 3.89:1 ratio availble. Again - rockford CV might be able to help us adapt this diff to work with our axles. There are others as well - but those are the ones I've found that are promising. Sadly I lack the funds for R&D into this subject at this time. That will not be the case forever I hope..... GD

EA82 pully will work (same pump). Just make sure it's from a two-v-belt setup and not the MPFI XT engine with the serpentine. And make sure you get one with the same mounting style - some have a single acorn nut, and some have 4 nuts or bolts or something. Or grab the whole pump. EA81 non turbo uses a completely different pump. GD

The ports are different on EA81 vs. EA82. EA81 is screw on - same as the valve end, and EA82 is bolt on - like the EA82's EGR port on the manifold. GD

Yes - I have no doubt it would spin both tires in low torque situations (I think I said that ) *cough - mud*. I refered to high torque situations - such as crawling up a rock face at low speeds. If one tire is in the air, and the other against a large rock, this device would not function as a locker. A welded or spooled diff is actually even cheaper, and yet more effective. It's still cool - no doubt about that. Like I said I wouldn't mind one for my front diff on my lifted rig, or definately on my street Brat. And as for copying the phantom grip - they can't say anything unless you attempt to sell it. If you give them away for free they can't say anything either. GD