GeneralDisorder

Good luck finding an EA82 manual rack. Almost all were power. The power rack in my EA81 wagon is easier to steer with no PS belt than the manual rack in my Brat. That said, I did drive an EA82 manual once, and I couldn't tell it didn't have power. Was very smooth - much better than the EA81 manual racks. GD

It's only harmful if you breath the burnt vapor - at least that's how I understand it. GD

Use the search for the emmissions stuff - been covered. Short story - no. EA81? You can just leave the PP loose, and tighten it through the starter hole in the bell-housing. Easier, no need for the pilot tool, and I've had the pilot tools "fail" and spent two hours trying to get the damn engine on. So now I never use them. Don't even own one anymore. GD

Yeah - and it can kill you if you light it on fire. GD

Sure - but a few junk yard bits, and some 'freeze, and it should work again. There really isn't a lot to the systems, and it's mostly the compressor or the o-rings that die GD

Just depress the check ball on the pressure side of the compressor a tiny bit - you'll know real quick if anything is in there. Me - I just vent that crap (yeah - I'm no bunny hugger - sue me), and fill with R134. Make sure you replace ALL the o-rings tho. GD

Simple - Lincoln locker. I run one. Works fabulous..... ARB makes one for the R200 (used in the STi, and many, many Nissan and datsun Z car application) - with a divorced t-case this shouldn't be real difficult for you to fab up using cheap adaptors from rockford CV. Another option that apparently goes into the R160 without much modifiction (a bit if machineing I'm told) is the VW vanagon syncro air locker - I've found a source, but it's in Bend, OR and a bit expensive. If you can catch one in a junk yard tho it shouldn't be terribly difficult. The early Audi cars (Pre-5000 series from what I understand) had electrically motivated lockers in the diffs of the quattro package). They also had a 3.89:1 ratio availble. Again - rockford CV might be able to help us adapt this diff to work with our axles. There are others as well - but those are the ones I've found that are promising. Sadly I lack the funds for R&D into this subject at this time. That will not be the case forever I hope..... GD

EA82 pully will work (same pump). Just make sure it's from a two-v-belt setup and not the MPFI XT engine with the serpentine. And make sure you get one with the same mounting style - some have a single acorn nut, and some have 4 nuts or bolts or something. Or grab the whole pump. EA81 non turbo uses a completely different pump. GD

The ports are different on EA81 vs. EA82. EA81 is screw on - same as the valve end, and EA82 is bolt on - like the EA82's EGR port on the manifold. GD

Yes - I have no doubt it would spin both tires in low torque situations (I think I said that ) *cough - mud*. I refered to high torque situations - such as crawling up a rock face at low speeds. If one tire is in the air, and the other against a large rock, this device would not function as a locker. A welded or spooled diff is actually even cheaper, and yet more effective. It's still cool - no doubt about that. Like I said I wouldn't mind one for my front diff on my lifted rig, or definately on my street Brat. And as for copying the phantom grip - they can't say anything unless you attempt to sell it. If you give them away for free they can't say anything either. GD

It's just your sender, and your guage. Probably not all that accurate. A brand new EA81 will usually peg the guage out, but most that I have seen run at around 45-60 at hot cruise. It's the hot idle reading that matters most - should be no less than 20. Higher is ok, but once they are broken in, they generally will not peg the guage out like that unless there is some electrical issue in the guage or the sender. The senders like to fail, and they like to be different as they age. In fact I doubt any of them came very calibrated anyway. I've replaced senders and gained nothing, and other times I've done it and gained 5 to 10 pounds. You have to understand tho that the pressure reading is AT the pump. If there are restrictions somewhere in the system (sludge, contaminates, bits of filter), your reading will be high. GD

They usually come off pretty easy. BIG vise grips work well. Whenever I pull an engine I rip that stuff off. Just cut the pipe going to the spacer under the head, pull the threaded pipe end off, and weld it up making it a plug. I generally select a washer about the same size as the hole in the fitting, and weld that in and then fill the center of the washer with weld too. If you don't have a welder, go to your local nut/bolt house and find a plug the right size - it's some large metric thread I'm sure. The other method is to remove the spacers (need a star bit, or a lot of grinding, swearing, ect - and use an EA82 y-pipe. GD

I knew it would see the light of day eventually. I offered to setup to PC interface and make it run.... I guess the previous owner figured it was just too fast to drive Glad to see it on the road. Looks as nice as ever. GD

EA81 will fit (would actually be a straight bolt-in if you find an engine/tranny cross-member from an 81 GL Brat), and the TBI (we call it SPFI around here) can be fit to that engine. The later OHC EA82 is too wide, but if you notch and weld plate into the frame rails they can be fit as well - it's not as easy, but it can be done. The trans tunnel may need a little pounding if you aren't lifting it, and the linkage will be interesting. Engine cross-member should line up fine - engine mounts are basically the same. With the EA81 or EA82 you would need to move the steering linkage slightly in order to clear the bell-houseing. GD

http://www.phantomgrip.com/ GD

Probably bent the bolt-on hanger that hangs the rear of the y-pipe under the trans. It's a hard mount, so no rubber - take it loose and it should come forward. GD

NOT a locker. That's the same design as the Phantom Grip LSD units (which are overpriced IMO). Here's someone installing an R200 version. (They sell R160's too). http://z31.com/phantomgrip.shtml It's cool that you made your own, but you can't go calling it a "locker". It's an LSD, and it WILL slip given enough torque. That said, I would love to put one in the front and rear diff of my street Brat. And the front of my wagon. I'll keep my welded rear diff for off-road tho. GD

Only if the rectifier diodes are bad. If the regulator goes over or under voltage, you'll just have higher or lower alt output. If the brushes go, it will just die and not charge at all. Totally depends on HOW the alt fails internally as to if you get the christmas tree effect. In order to see it, you have to be putting out AC current. GD

I have seen plenty of bad alt rectifiers, and NEVER has it caused the tach to behave like that. If you were putting out any significant amount of AC current, the various dash indicators would glow faintly - the diodes in the power feed and ground circuits for the indicators will not function properly when the current flow is reversed and thus the incandescent bulbs used in the analog clusters will glow. That's all the indication I've ever seen on a subaru of AC voltage output. You alt output does seem a little high, but that may or may not be related to the calibration of your VOM - ~14.5 is the correct alt output. Although I've seen higher in cases where the remote sensor wire for the alt is corroded at the main junction (the fusible links are the main junction on the older subaru's). You should also be checking the voltage AT the main junction not the alternator. The alternator voltage may increase if the circuit draw at the main junction requires it. 15 or 16 volts is perfectly normal for GM remote sensing alt systems if measured directly off the back of the alternator. GD

Reseal - takes 30 minutes to pull the engine - maybe 45 to 1 hour for the turbo. Get the Fel-Pro gasket set, and buy OEM intake manifold, oil pan, and oil pump seals. If the engine runs good, then you will be better off doing the reseal - you don't know the history of a used engine, and it may have seals that are just as bad or nearly so. The gasket sets are cheap, and doing the reseal will familairize you with the various engine maintenence items - would be a good idea to just replace the belts and tensioners, and toss the old ones in the trunk for spares. Check the water pump too. Leave the timeing belt covers off - they are junk, and when your timing belts snap it takes 15 minutes to put the spares on. (or two hours with the covers in place - you choose). GD

You'll just keep having weird problems unless you rebuild it properly, and check your jet sizes. Mostly the main and secondary jets, and air bleeds. You need to completely tear it down, and adjust the choke interlock to spec, adjust the float level to spec, as well as replace all the gaskets - especially the accelerator pump diaphram, and possibly the power valve (although they usually are good, and do not come with the normal rebuild kit). It's not a complex carb - probably half as complex as the Hitachi. Trying to pinpoint the exact problem on a dirty carb from the junk yard and *only* fix that is an excersize in futility. You may have two or more problems all exhibiting similar symtoms. Fixing an obvious problem and having no detectible decrease of the symtoms is maddening - just do it right and buy the $35 rebuild kit. GD

Works fine for me - and many others on here. You'll probably need adaptors to step the return line and pump feed lines to the correct sizes. Not a big deal. GD

They are 50 amp, and that's at like 3k RPM. Not very much. GD

I wouldn't drain the gas, or bother with the filter. Just check your compression first. Harbor Freight sells testers for about $10 GD

It's possible you have a bad ignitor inside the disty as well - perhaps it's gone too sensitive or something. It is usually tough to notice the shaft play once it's out of the vehicle. With it in there, the thing is held solid, and it's easier to notice the movement. It really doesn't take much. The shaft oscillation might not set in till the shaft starts spinning faster - this is all sounding pretty normal for the beginnig stages of shaft play. Slightly abnormal tach readings at higher RPM, and weird effects with accesories turned on are just the start. Most people who have this problem don't notice till it gets REALLY bad, and starts making noises, and the tach starts jumping around at idle too. I knew something was up, but being poor at the time I had to drive it. Eventually it go so bad I had to find a solution - I found philbin, and was out my ride for a grand total of 48 hours. Oh yeah - and the coil is right - black/white stripe goes to +, and yellow goes to -. I always remember it cause the yellow tach signal always goes to the negative side of the coil..... GD