GeneralDisorder

Yeah - shouldn't really be too hard. Just a lot of folks don't have impacts, and that nut in particular is large. If you do it with the wheels on the ground you might get a breaker bar on it. GD

The GR2's are nice - but they do not make an exact replacement for the 4WD struts - ie they are not adjustable, and will ride lower than the stock ones. Monroe makes an exact replacement that includes the height adjusters and everything. It is also possible to replace just the strut cartridge from what I understand - cheaper, and retains the stock package with height adjustment. Little more work tho. GD

AC runs with all the settings on the dash except off. I noticed that as well. Kinda weird as most cars it only runs with the defrost, but my EA82 sedan is the same way - runs in all settings but off. GD

The *new* infinity reference speakers are now thinner than they used to be - they fit more applications now. I think I used 5" ones in mine. GD

If you take the driveshaft bolts out and drop the shaft off the diff you will see a large nut. Take that off and you should have access to the old seal - remove it and match it up with a new one by the numbers on it, or go to the dealer for the seal. Frankly - easiest to just snag another diff. GD

True - but I think that a timesert or heli-coil is still possible after tapping to 7/16"x20 as that size happens to not require any drilling. Could still drill and tap for a heli-coil type repair later if you like. I do the SAE tap cause it's cheap. All thing being equal I would go with the timesert, but they are expensive and not always handily availible. Heli-coils are usually reasonably easy to find (some places don't carry much in metric I've noticed), but can be expensive for some of us. SAE: A few cents for a bolt and lock washer, and I already have the tap ($6 I think from NAPA). Just offering my out-of-the-box solution (as usual ). As always tho - many ways to accomplish, each with it's own side-effects either on the car or you wallet GD

Being one of the few that has done this, I can tell you that it's not all totally bolt up. Besides the mentioned parts, you'll need a 4WD wagon exhaust, the floorpan will have to be beat in, or the body lifted, the 4WD lever mount will have to be moved over (drill out the spot welds, and reweld it to the tunnel of the new car), and the shifter hole will need to be enlarged. The gas tank was by far the most annoying part of the swap tho - took me half a day to remove both, and install the 4WD one in the wagon. You have the disadvantage that the hatch tank is not a fit for the wagon - you'll need (and it's bigger, so you'll WANT it too) a 4WD wagon tank. GD

Yes - those seem to last the best. GD

Yes indeed - and on the EA81 that same fuse controls the Brake lamps , so you'll know real quick when the cops pull you over. GD

I've had problems on the Hitachi with them just quitting - I think it's the float needle's, but the one that I have that does it has defied all attempts to fix it. The carb has been on my Brat, and for a while was on my wagon. Durring that time it's had three engines under it. I rebuilt it 8 times that I can think of, and it runs oh-so-perfect (amazingly well actually - better than any Hitachi I've ever seen), and then all of a sudden it will start bucking and lose power. It truely is possesed by demonic communist gnomes. If you hold the throttle wide open the thing will sputter and the car will do about 2 MPH.... shut it off and let it sit for a while and it works flawlessly again. All the engines/cars run flawlessly with a Weber. It IS the carb, but for the life of me I can't figure out what it's daft problem is. I thought the float might be sticking partially closed so I replaced the needle and seat, and polished the hinge pin. All was well for a while and then just the other week it died again about 1/4 mile from the house. Got it home sputtering as usual.... I'm totally sick of the Hitachi carb. I pulled it and put the Weber on. My Brat is getting SPFI, and I've half a mind to use the sledge on the crate of Hitachi parts I have just to insure they will never cause anyone harm again. GD

No - I looked at his location - WA, so I told him what his cost would likely be.... they are $100 even here, no tax. GD

Far better are the brand NEW shafts from GCK - Autozone - should be about $100 + tax - special order so may take about 3 - 4 days. Cheaper than MWE too, lifetime warrantee which you probably won't need, no core charge, no shipping. GD

Weak - a good mechanic is prepared for all potenialities. Heli-coil kit = $50, or $30 for a cheap knock off. SAE tap = $10 and can be re-used to fix the same problem over and over. It has the added advantage that the larger threads don't strip anymore, and hold much tighter. Plus you can use a SS bolt, and never worry about rust again. GD

1980 should be the EA71 (1.6 litre). Similar to the EA81, but smaller. GD

The drain may be clogged - turn the drain cock out till it actually comes out of the radiator - that may help a bit. Otherwise just take the lower radiator hose loose - that will definately do it. GD

Just unbolt the lines to the PS pump (they don't leak much if at all - a few drops maybe) - and flip them into the spare tire area. Leave the pump on the engine, as one of the engine hoist loops is actually part of the pump mount. As previously mentioned, the AC compressor should come off with the whole bracket assembly once you get the belts and the alternator off. GD

They strip the AL in the head - and they always strip when you are tightening them, not taking them out. No amount of PB blaster is going to help the situation. It's just from years of the exhaust being dropped for various repairs - the AL gets stressed and fails. GD

Probably 2 out of 10 of those studs will strip out - that's been about my odds on it anyway. 8 out of 10 of the things will unscrew the stud out of the head rather than the nut. There's really not much you can do - if they are going to strip they will. If they do, get a 7/16"x20 tap and tap it to the next STD size. The tap will thread in with an adjustable wrench without drilling. Then you can use bolt and lock washer. Works great. GD

Should be a 3 wire connector for the Hitachi - two of those are hot in run at all times - one is for the electric choke on the Hitachi, and the other is for the idle fuel cut solenoid. Just take the pig-tail off the Hitachi, and run the same wire to the choke that was being used before. GD

Recently drove about 20 miles with an 84 Magna in mine. Did fine at 60 MPH down the freeway. Goldwing is heavier tho. And I have a weber and such, so not a totally fair comparison. GD

No need to replace the head bolts. I swear by the Fel-Pro's myself. Better than OEM in my opinion. Don't have to be re-torqued, which is a huge plus on the EA82 as that requires removing the cam towers unless you make or buy the special socket. GD

Oil pump seals can leak too. Aftermarket gaskets are junk, so anything you replaced with non-OEM is suspect. Seals are usually ok, but gaskets other than OEM, and a few of the Fel-Pro's are crap. Especially pan gaskets, and intake manifold gaskets off the top of my head. GD

EA81's don't have cam seals. EA82's do. What vehicle do you have? Body type and stuff - 89 could be either engine. As for leaks, about the only place an EA series engine won't leak is between the block halves. If you have the capability, the best way to deal with oil leaks is to remove the engine and reseal everything. It's neither difficult nor expensive in the case of the EA81, and the EA82 isn't far behind really. GD

No, they are quite a bit different. It can be done, but it requires fab work to fit the XT6 knuckles into the existing struts, and the existing lower control arms, and requires custom axles be made as no axle exists in the correct length with the Legacy (XT6) style outer joint. Not a small job at all, and careful attention must be made to preserve correct camber. GD

R12 is a gas at room temp - it will evac itself right into the atmosphere if you open a line. Only thing left in the system will be compressor oil and possibly moisture. Generally a vacuum is pulled on the system to check for leaks, and to rid the system of contaminates and moisture. The R12 itself will be long gone as soon as the line is cracked. GD