GeneralDisorder

You can indeed repair the calipers, but before you try and really get frustrated know that you need special tools to reassemble them. Harbor Frieght sells a tools set for about $40. They are IMPOSSIBLE to reassemble without the tool. Good prices on rebuilt calipers from here: www.rockauto.com GD

It will change the camber the same way cranking the adjustable front EA81 struts up will - except you won't be able to easily undo it. You can offset this by going to 4" blocks on the cross-member, and staying 3" on the radius rod plates... but it's not a true suspension lift. The other way to fix it would be to move the lower control arms outward about 1/2" to correct the camber and still give you the suspension height. Have to blue wrench the mount tabs off, and re-weld them about 1/2" further outboard on the x-member. GD

Yeah - can be ignition related too, but that usually manifests itself as poor idleing and crappy running in general. But you didn't mention how it runs otherwise? Check it all out - vacuum leaks, ignition problems, etc can all cause hesitation to some extent. As for the accelerator pump - you have to tear down the carb to get to it. Remove the carb from the car, and pull the top off - the check ball and plunger will come with any good rebuild kit..... You probably have a Hitachi 2 barrel, but you might also have a Carter/Weber single barrel - take a look down the carb throat and tell us which you have. GD

The way I've done it is to drop a longish bolt with a large washer through the floor in the tranny tunnel. Then use some spacers (washers, those thick guys from under the alternator mounting plate, etc) to get the shift mechanism level. Has worked fine on the ones I've worked on. GD

+1

Of the older deisels that you can pick up cheap, either the aforementioned rabbit engine, or an Izuzu PUP 4 cylinder. Of the two the Izuzu is the better engine. Toyota also made some for their trucks but they are rare here in the US, and bigger I do beleive. This needs moved to the retro-fitting forum. GD

Neato! I meant a whole shelf of "alignment tools" - not specifically subaru. I remembered seeing them at the Baxter on 99 out my way. I just noticed it was cool they carried the tools without buying the whole kit.... so I figured they could probably get one in if they didn't stock our specific size. I should still make the "high quality" alignment tool tho eh? Would be a neat conversation peice. hehe. GD

Replace the accererator pump check ball and plunger. GD

If it's a west coast car it won't have any rust (to speak of). Common places are the door sills, wheel wells inside the bed, and all the seams inside the bed if it's not had a topper on it most of it's life. EA81 engines - the common misconception seems to be they are unkillable. Totally untrue. I would say the EJ22 is probably a better animal all the way around - even with the timing belts. The EA82 is a step down in some ways, being basically an EA81 with overhead cams, it was the first timing belt fuji engine, and as such the belts tend to fail alarmingly fast (~60k miles). This is due to bad belt routing, lack of hydrualic tensioners, and the dual, offset belt setup it uses. Other than the timing belts however, the EA82 seems to be just as durrable as the EA81 - it makes sense really being they use the same rings, rod and crank bearings, same displacement, same bore and stroke - almost the same engine really - just a different valve train. The difference in the valve train also necesitated a change to the oil pump and water pump setup. The EA82 oil pumps seem to last longer than the EA81 pumps, but are quite a bit more difficult to change or reseal - another trade off. The EA82's also suffer an all too common ticking problem with the lifters - often a result of poor oil pressure, dirty engine oil, lifter wear, etc. Usually it's all of the above mixed together making it an expensive proposition to fix. However, if well maintained they do fine - mine has 222k on it, and has never ticked at all. It really comes down to maintenance - the reason people seem to think the EA81 is better has mostly to do with it's maintenace being extremely simple and easy. The EA82 is much more time consuming and expensive to maintain. If maintained properly however, and all variables being mostly equal I would say the EA82 would last longer. Generally speaking out of all the vehicles I've seen and checked the odometer on in the junk yards, the EA82's have more mileage before they die. Now - as for my personal preference - I do a lot of off-road, and timing belts are just not in the cards for me on that account. I run the EA81 and I love them. Rugged, simple and easily fixed on the side of a trail. Change the oil pump every 100k, change the oil every 5k, and maintain the cooling system - the engine will go 300k before the main bearings are shot. All the 3 main EA engines suffer from main bearing wear at high mileage - it will eventually result in rod failure if not torn down somewhere around 300k. I know of a few that have more mileage, but it's largely constant RPM freeway mileage that will get you over the 300k hump reliably. If the oil pump is not replaced, 200k and the engine will be done. Mine had a few run-ins with swamp water and threw a rod at 170k on the original oil pump. Hard lesson... GD

No special tools required. Do a search for "axle removal" - you'll turn up a number of real good threads. GD

No - Autozone sells them. Warrateed parts are guaranteed to anyone they sell to, and you just need your phone number to use the warantee. If you can break one, I'll send you a cookie. They will outlast your hatch. GD

There is a combination that will do the job - there was a member that did the EJ/AWD 5 spd conversion to a Brat (Brumby) quite some time ago. He stated that he used the DOJ cups from a early 90's Legacy Turbo (92/93 vintage). What I don't know is if he was using 2WD or 4WD EA81 front axles. I'm assuming 4WD as that is what the Brat came with originally.... but you never know. Most likely the 4WD EA81 axle will slide into the legacy turbo cup. A real write up would be nice, but thus far no one has come forward. GD

It may diesel when you shut it off. You can test that thing - just apply 12v to it while it's off the carb and see if the needle gets sucked in. FWIW, I've never seen one fail. GD

Well - yes you are , but I was refering to the natives around where we wheel - Aaron can tell you about the crazed dirtbags with VERY large firearms we ran across while wheeling last time :-\. GD

What kills axles is not the angles, it's the speed AND the angles. You can use them at their highest possible angle forever at 1 RPM. The higher the speed, the more stress it causes. With a loyale having only high range, you won't have the gearing needed to run them slowly. If you put more strain on the axles (suspension lift rather than body), and then go desert racing with it.... get a trailer cause you'll need it for the 500 extra axles you'll require. If you get a t-case and 10" of mostly body lift you should be able to crawl slowly enough to not damage them if you get decent quality axles (you will break other stuff tho - diff stubs, etc). I've never broken a front axle with only body lift, but with my rear lifted 4" on suspension only, and a welded diff, I broke quite a few till I started making my own custom axles with more stretch. GD

Um - this is OR dude - we don't have those Nazi freaks here. And we don't really have trouble with land closing. It's a FFA around these parts, and if you go out of the metro area it's even more backward - I regularly see nutcases driving with no fenders, doors, or hoods - beer cans all over the place. GD

In the Sedans, the seat parts are maybe 10 pounds total. Just foam and fabric really. Totally not worth it. GD

It's been discussed at length before. Use the search. The factory service manuals show a single advance curve. I didn't write that "performance" page, but it's also VERY old, and quite frankly, wrong. GD

2WD will look very similar, but will be a Nippon Denso brand vs. the Hitachi used on the 4WD's. But again, there is no difference in the advance curve, so unless you want one for some other reason, it's a moot point. GD

Wrong distributor - you have an EA81, and you pulled an EA82. You would have to remove a mounting tab, and change the drive gear for it to even fit, and since you got it from a fuel injected car, it won't work at all being it's just a crank angle sensor and needs the fuel injection computer for spark control. As for the suspension, you do have a torsion bar. The Hatchback, and Brat continued to be sold in the US till 89, and 87 respectively, but they are 100% '84 in design. GD

Kerosene will do the job too - or ATF. Anything with a lot of detergents will clean it out. Seafoam is great for fuel systems and carbs and such, but aweful expensive for flushing an engine. GD

You really should give me a + board rating for that . I told ya Baxter's had a whole shelf of em..... Man I love me sometimes :-p GD

There is NO difference in advance curves. Wives tale.... Also the 2WD is more prone to bushing failure.... actually it's just not as tollerant of shaft play, but same effect. They do fit better with a Weber, but that's the only reason I use them. GD

Doesn't have an computer. EGR light is mileage controlled - you have to switch a couple of green? connectors under the dash and it will go out for another 60k miles. GD

Head Gasket - pretty easy on an EA81. GD