GeneralDisorder

Just need a head gasket - but do them both, and have the heads milled. You almost certainly warped them, and the milling will give you higher comp. anyway. I doubt you did any other damage - unless you lose oil or oil pressure, the insides will be fine. GD

Probably does not apply to the EA81 N/A - the T heads are quite different. For one, they have injector boss's where the NA ones do not. Different casting. GD

Late 80's Izuzu Impulse seats are almost a bolt it - three of the 4 holes line up, and the 4th is easy - I just made a little adaptor with a bit of 1/2" x 1/8" flat bar I had around - the adaptor is about 2" long with two holes drilled in it. They sit lower and provide more leg room, and nicely do away with the crappy vinyl seats that came in the Brat. GD

Yeah - not only do you have to remove the bolts on the valve rockers, but you will also need to remove the rocker assembly, and the pushrods - keep them in order. You will have to remove some rubber covers on the frame rails to get the rocker assembly bolts to come out of the head. And if you haven't done it already - you need to remove the intake manifold, and the exhaust manifold. GD

Should be as they say - 14mm head, and yes it needs a flat washer and a lock washer on it to prevent it from coming out. GD

Yeah - I will. I now have some wire to hold them compressed too! GD

I call NOT photoshop. 1. Paint overspray on the dump bed 2. Transparency on the rear "windowlets" is too good, and the paint matching where it was re-sprayed on the rear quarters is too bad - not to mention they made custom side moldings but didn't paint the silver stripe on them. Clearly someone's attempt at an EA82 Brat, but no one good enough with photo shop to figure out the transparency of the rear windows, and the bed overspray pattern would be bad enough to mis-match the paint color, and not do the silver stripe on the moldings. Definately not a photoshop.... GD

140 is good, but the 180 air corrector is not. Should be 170 on the main, and 160 on the secondary IIRC. But it sounds like that thing is dirty - I bet the accelerator pump diaphram is either shot, or the accelerator pump system is clogged. That would explain your hesitation nicely. GD

Searching the board would yeild a lot of info - best to check it all as I might miss a thing or two. You basically just need the trans, and the driveline (different length). The driveline for the 5 speed is also a two peice, and the center "carrier" bearing affixes to the transmission/driveline tunnel with a couple bolts. The mount obviously isn't present on the EA81 body, so a mount must be created - I've done it simply with a couple of 4" peices of angle iron with holes drilled for the bolts. Then you just need to replace the clutch disc with a 5 speed disc (different spline counts on the trans input shaft), mount the transmission, hook up the 5 speed shift linkage, and use the 5 speed console if you desire a clean look on the interior - or you can just shove the 5 speed linkage into the 4 speed console with a tiny bit of cutting. There is also a board member that makes a "conversion" linkage setup that will make it look completely stock if you are doing a restoration quality setup. It sounds more difficult than it really is, and it's very worth the little extra work for the added reliability, and the smooth shifting 5 speed. As an extra benefit, the low range is lower too. GD

If you really want to do it right, take it to a cylinder head shop and have it TIG welded and tapped, but frankly JB weld would take care of it too. If you need help I have a four day weekend comming.... GD

It always is :-\ GD

Should be pretty close in power - but the EA82 definately has a little more due to it's improved valve layout. I have both a Webered EA81, and an EA82. The EA81 will top out at about 95-100, but mostly due to gearing on the 4 speed. My EA82 has a lot less torque, but will easily hit 110 with the 5 speed D/R. In reality I think it would be a very close race 0-60. The Brat is fast - with the Weber, milled heads (higher comp), and turbo muffler it's got no problems taking it right up to 85 - past that it starts to run out of RPM's. The EA82 sedan moves nicely too - not as much torque off the line, but revs quick, and shifts smoother, and with the secondary open it seems to pull harder higher in the power band than the Brat does. It will go to about 6700 RPM and then pretty much loose completely after that. Probably just the stock cam grind petering out. Both are very consistent at 28/32 MPG. GD

It bolts to the same place it does on the EA82, and the EA81T - blocks are the same, and the bolt holes are already there and tapped. GD

Probably have more luck finding a 5 speed D/R in your area. Not that difficult of a swap, and the 5 speed is much more reliable in the syncro department. GD

Yeah - I did the two bolt thing for a while also - works fine for a while (I replaced when I had a chance - it was a side of the road gasket replacement when I broke one) Best bet - clean the hole out real good, FILL the hole with JB weld, then sand it smooth on top, dill, tap and heli-coil it for a quality thread interface. JB weld will work fine as the manifold bolts are only 14 - 16 Ft-Lbs. Any more torque and you will screw the gasket, and maybe break the bolts anyway. Remember to shove a shop rag in the intake while doing all this to prevent crap from falling in there. GD

Just use the EA82 PS pump - it bolts right to the EA81 block (same pump used on the EA81T). Then you just have to deal with the belts, which are a lot easier than the hoses. Plus you eliminate the silly idler hanging way down under the engine - no idler at all with the EA82 pump since the alternator takes care of it. GD

WILL NOT WORK ON EA82. GD

Everyone else is right - it's not going to stop there - you have an old car. As any mechanical device, it's going to wear out/break/leak etc. If you don't have the ability to work on it yourself, it would be silly to try to pay others to do the work for you. You could easily spend more than the car is worth many, many times over. As Hank pointed out, each one is different, and they do seem to find new ways to break that no one has seen - I've ran across a few myself. Usually uncommon stuff that is a direct result of previous repairs gone bad or simply a lack of maintenance entirely. IMO only a mechanic, or aspiring mechanic, or at least someone with the ability if not the desire to make repairs, should own an old subaru. Yes - they are cool, and it's fun to off-road - but unless you have bags full of money (in which case, go get a Hummer H1 Alpha) then an old subaru, while very fun, is just not for you. GD

Discount import parts has the hella's for $50 each. You need 2 hi/lo's and 2 hi's. About $200, and yes - the wireing is not adequate, so some work and relays is in order. Very popular conversion with the VW crowd so we are lucky... GD

Heck - if ya need some help or some pointers - I'm not far away at all. I'm in the middle of about the 6th EA82 head gasket I've done right now. Just waiting for my friend to have the heads milled for it (his son's car). I have a picker if you want to do it that way.... GD

I cover the difference in EA81 clutch cables here: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/clutch.html GD

Exhaust leaks (in the y-pipe), or bad ASV. Fix the leaks and/or block the ASV's with quarters to prevent fresh oxygen from getting in. GD

Should still cool itself - probably your radiator fan isn't kicking on. GD

EA82 and EJ22 are completely different animals, and we have answered you on this before - you need a points disty from an EA71, and modify the drive gear. GD

First - REMOVE the manifold. It's not hard, and probably could use new manifold gaskets anyway. Get them from the DEALER only - about $3 each. Be careful removing the manifold bolts, clean them really good - I like to use a wire wheel on both the mating surfaces, and the bolts, and then anti-seize on the bolts. Remember - only 14 - 16 ft-lbs on the bolts or you will destroy the gaskets, and possibly break the bolts. After that - any of the above will work fine, or just drill and tap the thing back to the proper size. A heli-coil or timesert will fix it good as new. A well placed and properly sized drill bit and some careful drilling + use of a tap will clean out the original threads without harming them. GD