GeneralDisorder

I'm well aware of the frustration - I currently own 4. Frustration is a state of mind. I have never found myself "frustrated" per-se. If something doesn't work, then I sit down in the garage, and think it through. It really comes down to being calm enough to let yourself think it through. One big factor is always having at least one vehicle to drive. That way if you don't get the problem fixed, you have something to drive to work or the parts store. Takes a lot of the stress out of the situation. I figured this out when I was a mechanic in the ARMY - I realized that I never got stressed about fixing vechicles at work because it never affected me being able to go somewhere, and I always had the right tools or could get them easily. GD

Yeah - I sugested that too.... can't hurt to try if it's on a picker right? Only if you can write off the time investement if you can't get it to work I suppose..... The splines are slightly beveled near the end, and I think it should work - the springs in the disc should afford it a small amount of play doing it this way.... GD

Yeah - the EA81 fan switch in the radiator just grounds to the radiator when it reaches operating temp, so use the switch as your ground, and it should just work like magic. GD

I can get pumps for about $65 here locally - original OEM part. Not sure what shipping would cost, but I can't imagine it would be anywhere near $140 GD

Those are sweet - and unfortunately extremely rare. They made them for wagons too - just not in the US. GD

(This Problem) Youth :-\ GD

GD

It's a tight fit - pound the seal in with a socket. GD

Cross member will not work with the EA82T exhaust, and you'll have the mentioned frame rail issues if you lift the vehicle, but other than that it will fit alright with some mods. That said, the EA82T is a finicky peice (of junk) - not worth the trouble IMO. Far easier to swap an NA EJ22 - no turbo, no exhuast problems, and 20 more HP. Best of all they are now MORE common than the EA82T, more reliable, and cheap - whole donor cars can be had for under $500 if you look around a bit. GD

I've never really experienced the "stuck" oil pump. I just apply constant pulling force while twisting and they come right off.... but YMMV. I've pulled over half a dozen that I can think of, and more than that off parts motors and such that weren't in a car. Getting the damn screws out that hold the pump itself together is another issue - very sharp screwdriver, a vice with some soft pads or wood blocks, and a sharp hammer blow will usually get them turning without totally destroying them.... GD

No - there is only 4 bolts that hold it to the block. A 1/4" drive ratchet with a 2" extension and a standard depth 10mm will take out all the bolts without removing the crank pulley. Rotate the pump back and forth while pulling gently to remove it from the block - it helps to leave the oil filter attached to it for some leverage. DO NOT pry on the pump or you WILL crack the drive spade housing - it's cast aluminium and very brittle. The 14mm on the pump is the pressure relief spring housing on the pump, it does not attach the pump to the block in any way. GD

That's exactly what I'm talking about - they are redesigned axles, and they are better than even the original 4WD spec axles. There really is no comparison - especially for the price. GCK really did us a favor here guys. They are not using EA82 joints, they are using NEW components made to fit our application. EA82 joints will not fit an EA81 front axle - the axle shaft splines are different as the EA81 shaft is much thicker (in the case of the 4WD shafts). The only issue I've had is that on one axle I could not get the axle in far enough to fit the cotter pin it came with - had to use a smaller cotter pin. Worked just fine tho, and I think it was due to aftermarket bearing in the hub. I actually moved that same axle to another car (don't ask :-\), and it fit fine. They make EA82 axles now too (they didn't when I first started using them), and I'm sure they are just as good. Someone with a lifted EA82 should check them out. Their catalog is very complete now with axles for every subaru I can think of (EA81 and up), and they even correctly show the spline count (23/25) for EA82's. They even have a listing showing the RX (same part as the Turbo EA82, but at least they know about it). GD

New or new-to-you? Are they 4WD or 2WD axles? This is the problem with most brands - they use 2WD axles (or in the case of rebuilders - you don't get any choice), and they really are not up to the job for a lifted unit. GD

Depends on the model - on my EA81 they work fine - just blink a little faster than normal cause the system thinks a bulb is out. I just bought orange bulbs and called it good. EA81 land is nice like that. GD

You have probably missed the bolts inside the push-rod section below the clylinders. You also have to remove the piston wrist pins through the 4 acess holes on the sides of the block. If you threw a rod tho - why are you bothing? The whole engine is contaminated with chewed up bearing material and it's not as if EA81 crank's are rare.... GD

The Brat tranny is a bad choice - 4 spd is not going to fit very well. You'll have a lot more issues than with a 5 spd D/R. The D/R transmissions are NOT awd - they are 4WD. And manual is not a step down over auto, it's far better for off-road. That said, Andy is right - if you only have one car don't do this sort of thing with it. You will have nothing but headaches - you'll take it out and break something, or it won't be driveable because you have it ripped apart in your driveway. You are going to want bigger MT tires, and you're looking at $500 for tires/rims that will last maybe 10k miles or less.... lets not even go into the mileage issue . My wagon gets 22 freeway, and maybe 20 in town. Best thing you can do is get another rig to PLAY with. Then you don't have to stress about being able to run to the junk yard or parts store whne it's broke, or getting to work, or having a decent vehicle for a date or something. Before you go nuts - get prepared. Get a AAA membership, and pick up a cheap soob for a few hundred as a toy. You'll be a lot happier, and you will feel so free - you won't have the spectre of damage hanging over you. Free to break things and bash stuff at will - it's beutiful, and IMHO more important than any other aspect of off-road play with a soob. Hell - I smashed a window out of my wagon last time I went out - that was probably a month ago and it's still not fixed - because I don't HAVE to. I'll probably just wait till winter. GD

Realistically speaking, the master cylinder is not powerful enough to require braided line. Braided line is used to prevent the rubber hose from expanding when used with high pressure brake systems using very large calipers and rotors. Frankly the stock brakes will fade long before you get to the pressure needed for SS line. However - there are plenty of sources if you really want to waste your money. Try Jegs or Summit Racing for universal lines. All you need it a pipe cutter, a flaring tool, and some fittings. You would be much better off converting to a larger brake system. With some fab work a larger legacy or impreza system I'm sure is possible with a few XT6 parts. GD

Sounds like he's talking about the carter/weber - tighten the bolts on the base and it will probably be fine. GD

It's not very often that you will actually see where the head gasket failed - sometimes they just do, and it's difficult to see where the leak was. Did you check the head for warpage? It may have just warped a bit and pulled away from the gasket slightly. On the last EA82 I did it was the same way - gasket failed (original - 220k, #3 cylinder tested about 10 for compression), and it still ran on three cylinders - drove it home that way. I replaced the gasket and now it's fine again. I could not see where it had failed either. GD

Beign AWD, if you lose traction on one front wheel you still won't move at all even with a rear spool or locker. Not worth it unless you are also going to install a real 4WD trans. Diff is not exposed at all without the axle - the seals are in the diff not the axle, and the stub is external not internal. It takes me about 5 min to remove or replace mine. But again - you need 4WD before you even consider such a thing. GD

It really doesn't matter - 1981 and older subes had the fuel pump in the engine bay, and later they moved it to the rear. Both woked fine, and I beleive the reason for the change had more to do with regulations and/or noise/vibration from the pump. The pulse style pumps are loud. The 1980 should have the pump in the engine bay already, and the car is not equipped with the correct vent/return line system for the under-car mounted pump. Stick with what you have. Check the FPCU as you may just need to replace this or a fuse or ground wire or something. Personally I would not run any pump without the FPCU component in the wireing. It serves to shut the pump down if the vehicle is in an accident. It uses the tach pulse from the coil - if it is not present the fuel pump is not powered. GD

Some came as 2WD 5 speed's, but not in the US. Very popular in Isreal. US models - ALL were 4WD, availible transmissions were only the 4 spd D/R with 3.9 diffs, and the 3AT Automatic with 3.7 diff. GD

Probably not - the front diff will prevent one wheel from spinning anyway, so you'll only get power to one wheel - probably the one with least resistance, and hence little or no vibration. GD

You sure you didn't typo that number? Seems to not fit well to me.... GD

You can get a K&N filter assembly, and then when it gets full of oil at least you can clean it and re-oil the filter instead of buying a new one. They are better filters anyway, and I've found that it sometimes takes a while to get the oil consumption into the intake to stop. Cleaning the PCV is the first step, but it does not seem to curb the oil issue right away. Replaceing the hoses with new ones are a good idea too as the inside of the hoses becomes caked with carbon. GD