GeneralDisorder

If it's 4WD, then fix it - shouldn't cost more than about $200 in parts - that includus doing all the needed belts and water pump and stuff. Maybe $100 more if you need to mill the heads. If it's 2WD - part it out. GD

Thermo-switch completes the circuit, so just put a jumper wire in the connector with a couple crimp spade connectors temporarily till you can replace the switch. If the fan doesn't come on, then you have other problems (bad fan, fuse, etc). GD

There is no difference in engines - other than emmissions related chages required for 2WD vs. 4WD, or CA. Subaru was very much into interchangable parts - the core engines have always been the same regardless of drivetrain. I have driven both, and they act differently due to the gear ratio's, final drive ratio, and tire sizes. The 2WD came with 175/70R13's, and the 4WD was 185/70R13. GD

A normal sized 1/2" breaker bar will rest against the radiator support on the drivers side with the radiator out - make sure it's AGAINST the support before turning the key. It's only scary the first couple times you do it.... and that one time I threw a breaker bar into the neighbors yard GD

Remove it - not needed, and there are more of them in the engine bay anyway. GD

The sticker would say LSD on it if it was, and they didn't make a 3.9 LSD, except as a rare option on the XT6, and I think that may have been the VLSD. At any rate, only turbo, full-time-4WD (AWD) 5 speed's for 88, and 89 got the 3.7 LSD (And some older RX's I do believe). To verify - jack up the back, put the transmission in 4WD - turn the wheel - if the opposite wheel turns the same direction it's an LSD. If it turns the opposite direction it's a regular open diff. GD

Same as a Dastun or Nissan blank. They used the same locks on many 80's cars. Nearly all my keys are nissan re-cut's. Your "smith" just doesn't know much about his job apparently. GD

The lock comes off easy - get a pair of needle nose pliers, and tilt the column all the way down. You will be able to turn the bolts out with the pliers and the lock will just fall off. I have a couple extra that I have scored from junk yards and such that happened to already have a key. They usually come off easy as there is no corrosion on those bolts being inside the car. Get a replacement from the junk yard, note down the key code from the passenger door lock assembly, and have a key ground at your local dealer, or a lock smith. They can do it from the code for about $10. GD

IMO, no worse than any other parts source, but they have lots of hard to find stuff, their prices on some things are simply unbeatable ($0.94 for an EA81 fan thermoswitch ?!??!), and their customer service is great. Recently I ordered a part they did not have in stock, and were unable to secure from the manufacturer (also out of stock, with no idea when they would restock it). Rockauto called me, and also sent me an email. The issue was promptly resolved. They also usually have detailed pictures of most parts so if you know what you are looking for it's not much of a problem. Definately - I get the Fel-Pro entire engine gasket sets from rockauto, and then buy the intake manifold, exhaust, oil pan, and valve cover gaskets from the dealer. GD

Nope. GD

Yeah - shouldn't really be too hard. Just a lot of folks don't have impacts, and that nut in particular is large. If you do it with the wheels on the ground you might get a breaker bar on it. GD

The GR2's are nice - but they do not make an exact replacement for the 4WD struts - ie they are not adjustable, and will ride lower than the stock ones. Monroe makes an exact replacement that includes the height adjusters and everything. It is also possible to replace just the strut cartridge from what I understand - cheaper, and retains the stock package with height adjustment. Little more work tho. GD

AC runs with all the settings on the dash except off. I noticed that as well. Kinda weird as most cars it only runs with the defrost, but my EA82 sedan is the same way - runs in all settings but off. GD

The *new* infinity reference speakers are now thinner than they used to be - they fit more applications now. I think I used 5" ones in mine. GD

If you take the driveshaft bolts out and drop the shaft off the diff you will see a large nut. Take that off and you should have access to the old seal - remove it and match it up with a new one by the numbers on it, or go to the dealer for the seal. Frankly - easiest to just snag another diff. GD

True - but I think that a timesert or heli-coil is still possible after tapping to 7/16"x20 as that size happens to not require any drilling. Could still drill and tap for a heli-coil type repair later if you like. I do the SAE tap cause it's cheap. All thing being equal I would go with the timesert, but they are expensive and not always handily availible. Heli-coils are usually reasonably easy to find (some places don't carry much in metric I've noticed), but can be expensive for some of us. SAE: A few cents for a bolt and lock washer, and I already have the tap ($6 I think from NAPA). Just offering my out-of-the-box solution (as usual ). As always tho - many ways to accomplish, each with it's own side-effects either on the car or you wallet GD

Being one of the few that has done this, I can tell you that it's not all totally bolt up. Besides the mentioned parts, you'll need a 4WD wagon exhaust, the floorpan will have to be beat in, or the body lifted, the 4WD lever mount will have to be moved over (drill out the spot welds, and reweld it to the tunnel of the new car), and the shifter hole will need to be enlarged. The gas tank was by far the most annoying part of the swap tho - took me half a day to remove both, and install the 4WD one in the wagon. You have the disadvantage that the hatch tank is not a fit for the wagon - you'll need (and it's bigger, so you'll WANT it too) a 4WD wagon tank. GD

Yes - those seem to last the best. GD

Yes indeed - and on the EA81 that same fuse controls the Brake lamps , so you'll know real quick when the cops pull you over. GD

I've had problems on the Hitachi with them just quitting - I think it's the float needle's, but the one that I have that does it has defied all attempts to fix it. The carb has been on my Brat, and for a while was on my wagon. Durring that time it's had three engines under it. I rebuilt it 8 times that I can think of, and it runs oh-so-perfect (amazingly well actually - better than any Hitachi I've ever seen), and then all of a sudden it will start bucking and lose power. It truely is possesed by demonic communist gnomes. If you hold the throttle wide open the thing will sputter and the car will do about 2 MPH.... shut it off and let it sit for a while and it works flawlessly again. All the engines/cars run flawlessly with a Weber. It IS the carb, but for the life of me I can't figure out what it's daft problem is. I thought the float might be sticking partially closed so I replaced the needle and seat, and polished the hinge pin. All was well for a while and then just the other week it died again about 1/4 mile from the house. Got it home sputtering as usual.... I'm totally sick of the Hitachi carb. I pulled it and put the Weber on. My Brat is getting SPFI, and I've half a mind to use the sledge on the crate of Hitachi parts I have just to insure they will never cause anyone harm again. GD

No - I looked at his location - WA, so I told him what his cost would likely be.... they are $100 even here, no tax. GD

Far better are the brand NEW shafts from GCK - Autozone - should be about $100 + tax - special order so may take about 3 - 4 days. Cheaper than MWE too, lifetime warrantee which you probably won't need, no core charge, no shipping. GD

Weak - a good mechanic is prepared for all potenialities. Heli-coil kit = $50, or $30 for a cheap knock off. SAE tap = $10 and can be re-used to fix the same problem over and over. It has the added advantage that the larger threads don't strip anymore, and hold much tighter. Plus you can use a SS bolt, and never worry about rust again. GD

1980 should be the EA71 (1.6 litre). Similar to the EA81, but smaller. GD

The drain may be clogged - turn the drain cock out till it actually comes out of the radiator - that may help a bit. Otherwise just take the lower radiator hose loose - that will definately do it. GD