GeneralDisorder

If you are talking about carb powered.... it's possible to get a Weber to run on it - or a small Holley. Just have to jet it right, and replace the seals and rubber with alcohol rated stuff. The rest of the system is steel, and you can easily replace the rubber hoses. The carb would have to be jetted properly for it as well. The fuel filler hose is the only thing I think that would be tricky - it's a special bent rubber section that's a *************** to get to (drop the tank), and it's a special shape.... LPG would be much better and cheaper IMO. GD

Yeah - not a bad deal - especially if you got the headrests. And if you got the seatbelts you are very lucky (hard to find in good shape). After collecting all the bits from seperate sources, that's about how much I'm into my seats. $75 for the seats, and about $35 for the belts - can't recall on the headrests, but it was about a case of beer from a member IIRC. But yeah - good deal if they are in decent shape. GD

85 GL what? EA81 or EA82? GD

Sounds like a bad MAF to me.... GD

Leftafters from some B flick I would imagine. Cool in a Bizzare kind of way. GD

Yeah - you aren't going to enjoy this swap. I sure didn't - took me a month to get motivated enough to finish it once I started. Hours of testing, and slaving over the soldering iron and diagrams. This is one place that an 83/84 factory manual is almost a nescesity for the job. You're charging system is a standard GM remote sensing alternator. The BIG wire runs to the distribution box (fusible link box), and so does the sensor wire. The other wire is the excitation/charge indicator wire, and that one supplies an ignition switched power source and also runs to the "charge" indicator on the digital dashes and to the charge "light" on the analog voltage guage. If that wire is not connected the alternator will not charge until it hits about 4,000 RPM, and then it should kick itself into gear as it can sense it's own output rising, and will "jump" it's own field. Basically you need to connect the charge indicator wire in the digi harness to the voltmeter charge light in the analog cluster and it should work fine. Now - as for the rest of the circuits, you are probably going to experience a few circuits where you will need to add diodes to the circuit in order for it to work properly with the power feeds for the digital harness. I got most of it working when I did the swap. My indicators and warning lights all work - your dome light is wired into the door indicators so if you want it, you'll pretty much have ot figure it out - that's one of the circuits that needed diodes not present in the analog cluster. I didn't bother with oil pressure, or voltage. I did get the coolant temp working, but I wanted more accurate and better labled guages for those three so I added an AutoMeter 2.25" three guage cluster for those. I didn't bother wireing the clock as I don't need it, and the three guage cluster I installed in front if it anyway. I can probably help you out with the diagrams - I have an 83 FSM, but I need to hook up one of my scanners.... Also - the fuel level sender is different, and you will have to get one for an analog cluster and replace it - it's in the tank under the back of the car. If you want the oil pressure guage then you will also have to add the sender for it - the dig cars only have the switch for the idiot light - no sender for the guage. GD

The title is "EA81 & EA82......" that covers all vehicles made from 80, to 89, and 90-94 Loyales...... GD

I don't usually hold it at all really - just like an impact wrench, most of the force of your hammer blow will go into loosening the nut. I just hit it and then reposistion for the next hit. Usually even at the junk yard there is enough drag on the hub as long as it's connected to the axle still. If the axles are gone then I would just hold it - it's not hard on your hands really. I guess you have to see to understand, but trust me for $9 plus shipping, it's well worth picking one up for your tool bag. GD

No. If you want FI, you have to use the SPFI (Single Port Fuel Injection, commonly refered to as Throttle Body Injection). Typically this system is found on 87 2WD's, 88/89 GL/DL, and 90-94 Loyales. Exceptions are the Turbo's and the MPFI in the XT's - these will not work. Just look at the mounting of the manifold to the head and you will see the difference - it's obvious when you compare the two - the Carb and SPFI uses the triangular 3 bolt arrangement, and the MPFI, Turbo uses a micky-mouse ear arrangment with more bolts. GD

Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual - BIG usrm linky at top of your browser window. Use it - know it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49975 GD

It doesn't - but the sharp blow works like an impact - you can just let it spin as it will impart most of it's energy into loosening the nut. Some will be spent spinning the hub too. I just line it up and hit it - rinse, repeat. GD

VW axle nut removal tool - the rear of pre-1964 buses use the same size (36mm) as the EA subaru's. Except they are torqued to 250 lbs - a full 100 lbs more than a Subaru. The VW guys developed this "hand impact" for removing them, and it works very well for Subarus too. One end gets a 1/2" breaker bar (or not - I don't use anything), and then you pound on it with a BFH. I use a copper mallet as it gives a clean dead blow, and doesn't bounce much. For $9, even if you do the occasional axle job, it's well worth having. The axle nut is so large, than ever a fairly powerful air impact will not usually loosen them - and if you have an electric impact - forget it. Never tried the flywheel lock... where would you mount it on a soob? I generally bump the starter, or I'll thread rope down a cylinder. GD

I never have this fabled "removal problem" - at least not anymore. Don't leave home without it. http://bfyobsoleteparts.com/volkswagen/files/master/thumbs/t_9530.jpg With one, you can simply hold the hub in your hand, and use this like an impact. Works every time, and it's fast. GD

If they didn't tick before it sat, everything else being equal, clogged lifters is not your problem. They are worn, and their pressure is slowly escapeing like an old tire. Dumping extra cleansers in your engine only serves to accelerate the wear, and possibly loosen up contaminates that WILL clog things like your oil filter and PCV system. Personally I'm of the opinion that if it wasn't in the oil recommended by Subaru, it shouldn't be in the engine. The engine, assuming oil changed every 7,000 miles, and the filter every 15,000, should not be dirty enough to ever need a "flush" or any special cleansing additives for the lifetime of the engine - unless you recently ran through a volcanic eruption or are running without an air filter or something equally stupid. Once you reach 300,000 it's likely going to need a new bottom end anyway, and flushing it would just stir up all the metal and bits of bearing, and accelerate the wear factor ever more. No - it's better to be safe, and just use OIL - it's already got detergents in it. The best fix for lifters that can't stay quiet is...... NEW lifters, and a NEW oil pump. There is a place someone linked to a while back that can rebuild them too.... GD

Lifters get worn, and after sitting for a while can "bleed down" or lose pressure. Officially Subaru states that it can take up to 4 hours (of running) for all the air to excape from the lifters and stop the ticking. I've had it take a couple hundred miles on EA81's after replacing the oil pump for the ticking to stop. GD

Knowing subaru's is a qualification for "a good shop" and any shop that knows the EA82 should know it takes 2-3 hours tops for a clutch job. The going rate for labor is $80 an hour for high end OEM dealership work. Less for the "corner garage". As any mechnic knows, it's not the "title" of the job that sets the price, it's the complexity and time plus materials. On other tranverse mounted vehicles it very well might take a lot longer. Have you even thought that for that price you could easily buy the few tools you need to do the job (set of wrenches, and sockets and stuff - for that price you could get a nice craftsman set) - have a friend help pull the engine (a peice of 4x4, and a chain works very well). Then next time you have something go wrong you'll be equipped for it. GD

I would expect you to say that - can't even spell an acronym composed of two, three and four letter words :cool: GD

OMG! That's like $120 per hour. That's more than high end dealerships charge.... find a shop that's not going to rape you pal. GD

There are already several sets of copper HG's out there - people have already had them made, and they are not that expensive. They leak like crazy, and I woudn't use them anyway. With the o-ring's you just use standard gaskets. Fel-Pro is my choice. I understand where you are comming from, but the cometics are not needed. Subaru made rally engine conversion kits for the EA82T rated at about 175 HP on stock gaskets. It's a matter of doing things the right way, and watching the temps and fluids. Engine management is the key to reliable power. GD

Even figureing $50 each pcs, that's $25,000. You can o-ring a crap-load of blocks for that kind of money. Compression ratio can be changed other ways too. GD

Go to the junk yard and find the most mangled, wrecked, demolished soob you can find and yank the engine forward. This will both save you money and give you experience for the job a hand. If your disc is worn out, have the flywheel turned, and find a good pressure plate and disc from the junk yard. I pay around $20 for the whole clutch/flywheel assembly around here. Added advantage that you can have the flywheel turned and ready to go so you don't have to wait for shop turn-around. Start to finish it's about 2-3 hours with a hoist - maybe a little more without, but not bad with two guys. GD

Everything is flammable if you get it hot enough. GD

It's the type of disty you use - not the manifold. If you are using a disty with a vac can, then it will need grinding. Slap it on and have a look for yourself. GD

It's not the splines, it's the ball joint and strut mounts. And yes - it won't work. GD

I think I heard that too - interestingly, the SPFI manifold (which uses the same upper hose, and similar thermostat housing) fits just fine with no grinding or mods...... wait actually maybe that's because the disty has no vacuum advance can for the fuel injection.... But yeah - use an EA82 *lower* radiator hose in place of the upper hose when using with the EA81 radiator. GD