GeneralDisorder

Yeah - driveline is the same from a wagon. On the EA82T thing - no reason you can't use that - bell housings are the same, and will bolt to the 4 spd D/R, or the 5 spd D/R. VERY little room on either side of the engine tho - *maybe* 1/4". It's extremely tight. If you are lifting it, then the tranny tunnel won't be a problem probably, but the EA82T won't fit - with a lift, you will have to cut out the frame rails for it. You'll still need the manual tranny cross member tho. Maybe also the cross-member mounting plates too. I think those are different on the Auto's. GD

Yeah - I did have to put washers on the cross-member as well as under the cross-member mounting plate. And it does come to aobut a half inch total. I guess it would be a lift of sorts - I wonder if I could get more clearance by putting some washers on the engine cross-member as well? Might drop the tranny another 1/8" or so... maybe not tho, since the rump roast end of the tranny can't go anywhere do to it's cross-member. I did make sure that all the bolts have enough thread to grab all of the nut, even with the washers. I could always get some longer bolts and a few more washers. I think it still knocks sometimes, but it's much better now that the tranny is free to move a little. GD

Well - seems like a lot of people have done 2WD Automatic to 4WD manual conversions. This one started out in life as a 2WD 5 spd manual. Maybe that is the difference? Autos tend to be pretty hefty - even the 2WD's, so maybe they got the large tunnel too.... And that would partially explain the cross-member. The Auto cross-member definately is different. Maybe all the manual's got the same cross-member? GD

The cross-members are exactly the same, and so are the plates that mount the sway bar and the tie rods. After stareing at both tunnels many times, I finally took measurements, and the tunnel is indeed much smaller, as I had previously thought. I wish it was as Shawn thought, and just a panel that is removable.... alas that is not the case - the part of the tunnel that is smaller, is the same peice of metal that makes up the floor pan of the car - ie: to remove it you would have to dissasemble the entire car. There is just enough room for the 4WD tranny tho, provided you add some washers over the sway-bar/tie-rod/cross-member plates, and also over the cross-member itself. I added 30 washers in all to the entire assembly, and the tranny is free enough now to not rub, and to allow the 4WD selector to work freely. I think my problem is solved for now, and I should be able to take out the washers when I put in my lift, since that will raise up the tunnel to the point where it won't matter anymore. Thanks for the washer idea Miles - and thanks to Turbone for telling me about the sway-bar/tie-rod/cross-member plates - I might never have noticed that I could put washers over them if my attention hadn't been brought to them. I'm happy that I did the job without beating, or cutting the tunnel. It's still a tight fit, but it's definately acceptable. Total cost: $1.60 in washers (big zinc coated suckers). I'll try to take some pics of where I added washers so others can see what has to be done if they run into this. GD

Ok - so what I'm thinking is that I used the 2WD cross-member to mount the whole thing up. Turbone sugested that the cross-members are different, as are the cross-member mounting plates (the plate that mounts to the body, and the cross-member mounts to it, and so do the tie-rods, and sway bar). So I'm going to swap those out of the parts car, and see what happens. Shawn - the pitching stopper is adjusted back to where it was before I pulled the 2WD tranny from the car, and I don't think it would matter how I adjested it, since there isn't room for the tranny. The tranny mounts (the rubber) are squished down really tight. Ok - so I pulled off the cross-member and the mounting plates, and it doesn't rub anymore with no cross-member there. So I'll try swapping in the cross-member from the parts car - if that's not enough - I think I'll try some washers to give it a little more space. GD

Yeah - just drop the Y from the heads, and that will give you room to remove the heat shield, and then the O2. The O2 is probably in there REALLY good, so you might have to break it off, and use a box wrench to get the rest out. That's what I did. Make sure to use plenty of anti-sieze when you put in the new one. Also - don't use any silicone compounds forward of the firewall that don't say they are safe for O2 sensors. Silicone will kill an O2 real quick - even a little silicone vapor sucked into the intake.... GD

Does your car have the feedback carburator? I had this happen to me - it was the O2 sensor. Pull the wire going to the O2, and see how it runs - it will run without the O2, but it won't run at all with a BAD O2 - runs fine for a while, till it warms up, then dies. Do you have an ECS light on your dash? Check the computer for codes.... GD

Yeah - the adapter is different - they can be had for around $25 - $30 I think. Look around online. The Weber should work fine, assuming - like Turbone said, that the brat had a hitachi (very likely - never seen an 83 with the carter). Even if it didn't - just get a hitachi intake from some yard, and you'll be good. GD

You shouldn't have to remove the tie-rod at all - just remove the inner lower control arm bolt (easy), and unbolt the sway bar link (also easy). At this point, the whole hub will swing free, and the axle will pop off the tranny (assuming you've removed the spring pins). Then just beat the old axle out with a sledge, and a block of wood. There's a great post about this in the archives.... http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2576&highlight=axle+removal Like Ed says - 45 minutes - start to finish!

Anyone done this before? GD

Well - it has no lift and street tires. I was just having fun - and as you can see, it doesn't LOOK that deep - it's all overgrown - oh well, it was fun - even pulling it out. Brought out the Infinity QX4, and yanked it - what a beast that thing is! GD

OK - the 4WD is in my 84 wagon, and it's running and driving. The only thing is that the tranny tunnel itself (car was formerly a 2WD), is smaller, and the tranny (4 spd D/R) is MASHED up against the tunnel - the squarish peice on the top of the tranny where the 4WD shifter mechanism is located is pushed against the tunnel so hard that the 4WD shifter is near impossible to operate. So my question is - what are the implications if I were to drop the tranny and beat the tranny tunnel enough for this to fit? I'm wondering what is different under the dash that I might pound the tunnel into (did that makes sense?)? I just don't want my pounding to disrupt something like the heater core under the dash on the inside of the car... Optionally - I could wait till I get a lift kit, but I don't have the money at the moment, and I really don't like driving it this way. All the engine / tranny vibration come right into the cabin. GD

So it's a EA82T GL-10 Turbo Wagon then? GD

Well - the system is under pressure, so when you release pressure (assuming the system is hot), the the coolant will tend to boil. That could be the source of some of your bubbles. Either that, or the system is pulling in air from somewhere, and it's comming up to the radiator. You sure you have all the air bubbles out of your heater core? GD

Damn - I already put a fender on it. You sure about that color? The color of this Brat is 567 - it's not the usual blue. I put a regular blue fender on it, and it's close, but not quite right. You have a hood? I put another hood on it, but it's maroon GD

There are tranny tunnel differences between the Auto and manual cars. You will have to make the hole bigger, and a different shape, and you will have to beat the hell out of the tranny tunnel, or cut into it, since it's not quite big enough around for the 5 spd. It can be done tho, fear not. So this is a Turbo BRAT your working on? GD

Yeah - there's at least one board member that is running an EA82 SPFI on his EA81. There's a bunch of wireing that needs doing - and the Disty needs modifications slightly... but it can be done. GD

Huh - mine was under the drivers seat, but I may just be picking nits. Why would the factory do that? GD

Well - upon closer inspection (I wasn't really looking before, since I thought you wanted the rims...) the tires only have about 25% tread, and they are already missing most of their studs. I don't look at tires too often, and when I looked at my new 175, I relized just how deep the tread on a new tire is So if you in the market for tires - these wouldn't be worth shipping. Here's pics for you tho: The main difference seems to be the width.... GD

Sure - I'll snap some more pics. They aren't really that much smaller than a 175 - I'll take a pic of them next to a new 175 I have. If your still not interested, thats cool too, I'll put em on MY Brat. hehehe GD

Get a flatbed trailer, and use the truck to pull your monster soob to and from the mud.... but yeah - other than that, junkie is right - delivery is a good way to go. And if you have anything REALLY nasy - like a bunch of debris from a remodel that need to go to the dump, just rent a trailer and tow behind the BRAT. Full going down the hill, and empty comming back up..... GD

Well - I suppose if you want them that bad, I could ship them. I'll have to check out prices, and get back to you on that. The tires are studded snow tires. Probably not legal this time of year.... I think they are good tho - probably have like 75% tread left. Not rotten or anything - they were in his shed - nice and dry, on a plywood floor - and wrapped in the les-shwab tire bags. Would probably be a LOT cheaper to de-mount the tires, and only ship the rims. Lot of wieght in all that rubber. Oh - the tires are a bit small too - 155's. Might be good for a road vehicle tho. GD

Sure - you can have em for $80 - sounds good to me. WOW - that was the quickest sale in history - I just picked em up this morning cause my friend sold his 85 wagon (had 330k on it - was getting "tired" he said), so I was at his place, and he was gonna take em to the dump!! So - maybe someone on the board is going your way? Or come get em if you like.... GD

Anyone who wants them (they've got old steel-stud snow tires on them, good tread, not sure about the studs in them tho...), make me an offer. I don't want to ship them tho - too much trouble. I think they are all in the shape you see there - since they were only for snow tires, don't think they got much use. They look nice. I might put em on my BRAT, so better make an off quick..... hehe GD

Just got a set of aftermarket steels from a friend for cheap - anyone seen these before? If not - could an admin grab this pic for the wheels page? I'll host it for a while, so no hurry. GD