GeneralDisorder

Oh - and the fender... I'm not sure on the going rate for that vintage. I get fenders from Junk Yards for $25. But those are for stage 2 cars. If you can find one, I would say $50 wouldn't be outrageous. Mind you - I've never bought one, so I'm not sure on that. I would think anything over $100 would be rape (unless they have to ship it). GD

If he has experience with holly's he will be right at home on the weber. It's a very simple carb. The conversion can be done in an afternoon. Not hard at all. GD

The "Kit" is availible brand new through any retailer of Weber carburators. Just tell them what your application is (Subaru Brat, etc). is K730. I just looked here: http://www.carbsunlimited.com/Weber/weber.htm And they do indeed list your engine (EA71) and the kit for it is a K730. If you shop around you could probably beat their price on that web site, but not by much. GD

You can probably find one at a wrecking yard - but you will need an adaptor plate for the subaru manifold - that will have to be bought new. They are around $35. One from a wrecking yard should be rebuilt, and jetted to your engine, or it won't run right. Rebuilds cost about $50 at shops I know, and jetting can probably be done for you as well. Expect it to not be as easy as the kit, but since it's more custom, it may run even better. Or it may run worse depending on who does the rebuild, and rejetting. Still not sure about the 1.6, but I think it used a hitachi carb much as the 1.8 does, so it should work fine. GD

Well - the carb can be bought in a Kit brand new, and if you have a friend that can use some hand tools and follow directions, it's a pretty easy swap, and will run better afterward than the stock carb ever did - even new. I would put one on for you, but I live in Portland. The kit is about $325. A rebuilt original style carb will cost over $200, and not give you the performance of the Weber. What engine does your Brat have? Is it the 1.6 or the 1.8? I know the Weber will work on a 1.8, but I don't recall if they will go on a 1.6. GD

Mountain tech is good - but expensive. I do see older stuff there regularly, but I don't use them myself. GD

The Y is not your restriction - AKIRA speaks the truth. The Y DOES however balance the left and right cylinder banks for airflow purposes, and this is *nearly* impossible to do without the cross-over in the Y. It can be done, but would cost more than you are willing to pay. You need custom flowed exhaust designed and tested with CAD. Even then, you'll only get BACK what you would have lost with an improperly designed dual system. The Y pipe is one of the biggest innovations in exhaust since the muffler, and should not be tossed out lightly. GD

As for a carb - have you looked into putting a Weber 32/36 DGEV on it? Makes more torque, and better mileage. Unless your looking to restore to *complete* factory condition, it's really the way to go. GD

Many of the DGAV's have been refitted with the electric choke - I see LOTS of them on ebay that turn up this way. Seems to be weber that is doing it. I bought a brand new kit, and it has DGAV stamped right on the side of the carb, but it is electric. Very strange that they wouldn't follow their own nameing convention. If I were them, and cared about the customers sanity, I would grind off the DGAV, and put a sticker on it.... or just leave it blank. Nothing at all would be less confusing than leaving it there. Course - that's not the only issue I have with weber's "kit". They have terrible instructions that are generic (ie: not vehicle specific), they aren't jetted correctly, it comes with the wrong size air filter, The holes in the adapter, and the manifold don't line up, etc. I could overlook one or two of these things, but I would have rather paid an extra $100 for a better thought out kit. I won't buy one again. I'll buy rebuild kits, and adapters, and find the correct jetting myself. And I'll still save money to boot. The weber itself it s a wonderful carb, and the engineering is very good. But the group of yahoo's they must have designing their kits needs a good kick in the head. GD

Wash by hand, and don't take it out in the rain? :-\ Although a little rain water probably wouldn't hurt - give the cylinders a good steam cleaning. GD

I would write up the procedure for the EA81 if you want. I have hi-res pictures of the official weber kit paperwork too... GD

So - does anyone know about that 280zx alt? someone want to go to a yard and look? GD

No 4WD D/R. Stupid. GD

On my wagon when I went to replace the cable for the first time (broke on an on-ramp :madder:), I noticed that the previous mechanic had apparently lost the clip, and used a glob of RTV to hold the pin in. Seems to have done the job, but being the perfectionist that I am, I was NOT going to try that again. I put it in a vice, drilled it, and put a washer and cotter pin on. That's much safer IMHO than that silly spring clip they used in the first place. GD

yeah - they are similar at first glance, but if you look closesly you will notice that the casing of the 2WD (at least half of it anyhow), is different. There's a bulge on one that isn't on the other. However - I'm sure that many of the parts from the 2WD would fit inside the 4WD, if you were to need syncro's and what not. That is - if you wanted to open one up. Could be ugly inside. GD

neat - must have been a freebie when someone bought a car. GD

needle nose pliers, and some MUSCLE. Done a few brake jobs in my day, and never had a tool for any of them. That's just me and my method, do what you want tho. GD

My EA81 with hydraulic lifters is above 25 at idle, and rises to pegged (higher than 75) at freeway speed. Just for a comparison. EA82's may be lower cause of more oil demand to the cams I would think. That's just my numbers if anyone is interested. GD

Some people simply should not be allowed to breath MY air. Dern mouth breathers anyway. LOL - washer fluid in the oil - LOL. Ok - you made me laugh - that's not easy either. GD

Buy? Or build? PKDavis sells 3" for EA82's. If you want to build.... well then I suppose for a body lift, you could do whatever you want. Mudrat's hatch has 12" I beleive.... GD

Did you disconnect the vacuum advance? It will advance the timing if it's connected. Generally, if you move the disty a single tooth one way or the other, the engine won't run at all. GD

I've removed many - with a long flat blade screwdriver - just pull a little on the handle to get it in there, and hook the clip with the corner of the screwdriver - always worked fine for me, and I've never spent more than 2 minutes doing it. Never damaged anything either. And Qman is right on installation - just put the clip back on the handle, and you will notice that the splined shaft is beveled on the tip - just shove the handle on, and the clip will snap into place. Special tools are nice - but I get by with what I have generally. I think I will buy that axle pin punch tho - I have used a proper sized drill bit in the past, but last time I tried that on a badly stuck pin, the bit 'sploded in my face when I got on it with my BFH - got some hardened steel shrapnel in my forearm - was nice... GD

Just drill out some chevy 6 lugs - it's so much easier than trying to find rims for the 4x140. And you can get em for like $25 each BRAND NEW. GD

Your car is an EA82. In order to Turbo, you will need to switch to MPFI, the Turbo wiring harness, Turbo ECU, Turbo Exhaust, and there's more to it than that. For one - you probably might as well pull the engine, cause you'll need different heads for the MPFI, so it would be easier to simply drop a turbo motor in. It's a lot of work, but I'm sure you could do it for less than $1000 if you make the right purchases. Also - a turbo on your engine would be difficult becuase your engine has too high of a compression ratio - the turbo's have different pistons. So if you were to do the turbo conversion, it would be running at a much higher boost, and you would need to run premium in it, and probably use a manual boost controller etc. I'm no expert on Turbo's but if it were me, I would just go find a Turbo car - too much trouble to mess with trying to swap it in. As for suspension mods - there are none that I know of. You can get body lift kits for off-road, but I didn't gather that's exactly what you wanted. As for wheels - basically there aren't any of those either. The only ones around are original subaru wheels, some aftermarket sets that aren't made anymore (can get em used here on the board sometimes), and Peugeot 504 and 505 rims (hard to find). All of these rims are a 4x140mm bolt pattern. Alternativly, you can go to a junk yard, and get a bunch of suspension parts from an XT6, and retrofit your car to the legacy 5 bolt pattern. This opens you up to a whole bunch of wheel possibilities. Someone here could tell you what parts you need for that. Don't know of any body kits either... but maybe. GD

The problem is that you WILL have leaks when you put it all together, and then you will have to replace the hoses that leak, O-rings, etc. And yes - you can use R-134, but realize that it is a smaller molecule, and will leak out of R-12 type hoses and O-rings. So if you didn't have leaks before.... you will with R-134. You can replace all the hoses and rings in the system with R-134 stuff, but that gets terribly expensive. Many times leaks come from damaged (from the inside) evap cores, so you had better have a full evacuation of the system performed by a shop before recharging it with new refrigerant. Also a nitrogen pressure test is a good way to check for system leaks. GD