GeneralDisorder

I would write up the procedure for the EA81 if you want. I have hi-res pictures of the official weber kit paperwork too... GD

So - does anyone know about that 280zx alt? someone want to go to a yard and look? GD

No 4WD D/R. Stupid. GD

On my wagon when I went to replace the cable for the first time (broke on an on-ramp :madder:), I noticed that the previous mechanic had apparently lost the clip, and used a glob of RTV to hold the pin in. Seems to have done the job, but being the perfectionist that I am, I was NOT going to try that again. I put it in a vice, drilled it, and put a washer and cotter pin on. That's much safer IMHO than that silly spring clip they used in the first place. GD

yeah - they are similar at first glance, but if you look closesly you will notice that the casing of the 2WD (at least half of it anyhow), is different. There's a bulge on one that isn't on the other. However - I'm sure that many of the parts from the 2WD would fit inside the 4WD, if you were to need syncro's and what not. That is - if you wanted to open one up. Could be ugly inside. GD

neat - must have been a freebie when someone bought a car. GD

needle nose pliers, and some MUSCLE. Done a few brake jobs in my day, and never had a tool for any of them. That's just me and my method, do what you want tho. GD

My EA81 with hydraulic lifters is above 25 at idle, and rises to pegged (higher than 75) at freeway speed. Just for a comparison. EA82's may be lower cause of more oil demand to the cams I would think. That's just my numbers if anyone is interested. GD

Some people simply should not be allowed to breath MY air. Dern mouth breathers anyway. LOL - washer fluid in the oil - LOL. Ok - you made me laugh - that's not easy either. GD

Buy? Or build? PKDavis sells 3" for EA82's. If you want to build.... well then I suppose for a body lift, you could do whatever you want. Mudrat's hatch has 12" I beleive.... GD

Did you disconnect the vacuum advance? It will advance the timing if it's connected. Generally, if you move the disty a single tooth one way or the other, the engine won't run at all. GD

I've removed many - with a long flat blade screwdriver - just pull a little on the handle to get it in there, and hook the clip with the corner of the screwdriver - always worked fine for me, and I've never spent more than 2 minutes doing it. Never damaged anything either. And Qman is right on installation - just put the clip back on the handle, and you will notice that the splined shaft is beveled on the tip - just shove the handle on, and the clip will snap into place. Special tools are nice - but I get by with what I have generally. I think I will buy that axle pin punch tho - I have used a proper sized drill bit in the past, but last time I tried that on a badly stuck pin, the bit 'sploded in my face when I got on it with my BFH - got some hardened steel shrapnel in my forearm - was nice... GD

Just drill out some chevy 6 lugs - it's so much easier than trying to find rims for the 4x140. And you can get em for like $25 each BRAND NEW. GD

Your car is an EA82. In order to Turbo, you will need to switch to MPFI, the Turbo wiring harness, Turbo ECU, Turbo Exhaust, and there's more to it than that. For one - you probably might as well pull the engine, cause you'll need different heads for the MPFI, so it would be easier to simply drop a turbo motor in. It's a lot of work, but I'm sure you could do it for less than $1000 if you make the right purchases. Also - a turbo on your engine would be difficult becuase your engine has too high of a compression ratio - the turbo's have different pistons. So if you were to do the turbo conversion, it would be running at a much higher boost, and you would need to run premium in it, and probably use a manual boost controller etc. I'm no expert on Turbo's but if it were me, I would just go find a Turbo car - too much trouble to mess with trying to swap it in. As for suspension mods - there are none that I know of. You can get body lift kits for off-road, but I didn't gather that's exactly what you wanted. As for wheels - basically there aren't any of those either. The only ones around are original subaru wheels, some aftermarket sets that aren't made anymore (can get em used here on the board sometimes), and Peugeot 504 and 505 rims (hard to find). All of these rims are a 4x140mm bolt pattern. Alternativly, you can go to a junk yard, and get a bunch of suspension parts from an XT6, and retrofit your car to the legacy 5 bolt pattern. This opens you up to a whole bunch of wheel possibilities. Someone here could tell you what parts you need for that. Don't know of any body kits either... but maybe. GD

The problem is that you WILL have leaks when you put it all together, and then you will have to replace the hoses that leak, O-rings, etc. And yes - you can use R-134, but realize that it is a smaller molecule, and will leak out of R-12 type hoses and O-rings. So if you didn't have leaks before.... you will with R-134. You can replace all the hoses and rings in the system with R-134 stuff, but that gets terribly expensive. Many times leaks come from damaged (from the inside) evap cores, so you had better have a full evacuation of the system performed by a shop before recharging it with new refrigerant. Also a nitrogen pressure test is a good way to check for system leaks. GD

Hey junkie... maybe YOU need my wagon... hehe GD

If you do dual exhaust - leave the cross-over, or you will lose HP. The cross-over helps to balance the airflow of the engine. GD

Looks like I might make it up there for Sat. YAY! Don't have a lift yet, but I'm sure it will still be cool. GD

Well - for one thing - if you don't already know, AC systems for EA81's are all R12 - which means your gonna need R12 to fill it back up ($$$$$$), or you can use the new stuff called Freeze-12, but it's also more expensive than R-134. Anyway - yeah, it takes a while to get that dash out. Maybe not 12 hours if you've done it before, but a while non the less. I wouldn't bother with AC - why do you want it anyway? EA81 AC compressors are crap, and the system will mostly likely leak to beat hell when your done with it. And unless you have a refrigerant recovery system, and all the tools to pull a proper 30 minute vacuum on the system to completely evac it, then your looking at a dead evaperator in a year or less due to moisture in the system, which will cause corrosion inside the evap, and eventually lead to holes in it. Which will require removal of the dash again..... etc, etc. Anyway - you only could use it maybe a month or two out of the year in the Pac. NW, so what's the use? I say forget it, and save the wieght. If your going to lift it and go off-road, then it's just more complexity that you don't need hanging around in there. Just my $.02 GD

well - for the price of a weber, you could come get my Turbo Wagon, and take all the bits you want, and have a nice little day trip besides! It's here: http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3897 GD

The later model digidash's are supposed to be better - 87, I should think it might actually be the sensor. At least check anyway - it's easy to do. And replace that oil pump - heavier oil is good too, but to get rid of that click (and to keep from chewing your engine up), put in a new oil pump. Not that hard - and their about $60 or so. GD

Technically speaking, subaru's don't have just a transmission - it's actually the transmission, front diff, and 4WD transfer case, all in one unit. Power split is mechanically locked at 50/50 for all the manual D/R tranny's. What is this project? GD

I think the fuel pressure for the FI models is up there around 35 to 50 PSI or something like that. For carbs it's around 3.5 PSI. That's why the FI models have bigger stronger fuel lines. GD

Of course - as Cougar says - if everything is working properly, then the radiator will be pretty hot too. And if it is.... then your gauge is bad, or the sending units is bad. But if it isn't, then you should check out your thermostat. They go bad a lot, so check it first. It's really easy to do anyway. However - as I recall - Skip said he tested with NO thermostat to see if it would warm up slower, and he found that it took only about 45 seconds longer to heat up with no thermostat present. So it very well could be your gauge, or the sending unit. I personally have experienced the bad sending unit. My car had the feedback carb, and was able to tell me the problem, but I wouldn't have known otherwise. Also - the fan thermoswith is not the same as the sending unit. The sending unit is located in the intake manifold. There are procedures for testing it as well, but I let the ECU do it for me. Mine was bad, and so was another I got from the JY - ended up buying a new one for $15. Heat is your worst enemy - get it fixed soon! Oh - and I sugested blow torch cause I didn't want to be responsible for someone trying to test electrical parts around boiling water. Besides - it should work right? Might be a little hard to gauge the temp I guess - but hey - just drink a few brews first, and I'm sure you would figure something out GD

Just remember to follow the golden rule of thump - "Never play where you park". My buddy found this out the hard way with his 4 runner. He had 2 12" Audiobahn subs in the back, with 1500 watts driving them - all gone. GD